Ryland Craze

Hi Ron
Thanks for the compliment. Yeah, oarlocks are on the list. Probably going to do some micro-brazing to make those.  I need to think about those a bit. I just finished making 35 lances.  Lookout Moby I’m coming for you. 😂😜🤪
Tom
 

So looking for contemporary examples, HMS Victory upper deck guns, you can see the double and single blocks.  I believe these are 24 pounders.
 
Alsop on USS Constitution, albeit an American ship, similar and they are 24 pounders

I did not use hooks as scale so small. So from available ships seems like double/single may be for 32 and 24 pounders. I suspect the  single/singles may be more for 18 and 9 lbers.

That's very good work. Very clean and tidy. I plan the same - mast stubs only should I ever wish to rig but that'll be a distant day...For now (well, when I get to where you are) I'll also be happy with just a hull.

I don't want to hijack Michael's wonderful thread but here are a couple of photos of my project, the first being the historic model in its current (incorrectly-rigged) form.

I’m in a never ending search for quality drill bits at the size we need them. They are worth the search.   
 
Nicely done!

It is amazing what a high quality drill bit can do compared to the horrible stuff that is sold on Amazon.  Despite all my fear and trepidation about the task, the chains have all been pinned to the side of the hull without any breakage of drill bits.  It took about 2.5 hours for each side, but they look decent in the end I think.

I continue to pick away at the frieze on the side of alert. The sections below were a bit more tangly to do as I had already installed the channels and the deadeyes.

I had to break out the magnifying glasses as I only have about 3.5mm of width to work with.

OK, the updated Speedy is now live:
 
HMS Speedy – Version 2023 – VANGUARD MODELS
 
These will be ready to ship early next week, as I have the printed stuff arriving at the end of this week. The old manual is still avaialbel to download and the updated manual is now also available to download.
 
The ladders and gratings option have been deleted, as these are all included with the 2023 version.
 
Regarding Trial Cutter, it is very frustrating for me, as I am still waiting for a delivery date for the phot etched sheets. These are all I am waiting for, with everything else ready to go.

I use the gun rigging recommended in Sphinx and Duchess of Kensington. Also if you watch the 3-D video I posted earlier the below screen shot shows similar rigging although a double block is on the rear

This is the kit that I got on amazon. Just the airbrush and compressor are around $100

Beautiful work ECK in all aspects. The stove is superb. I admire your dedication to a fully rigged cannon - never again for me! Breeching ropes only from now on.
 
I don't know what airbrush you use but my Iwata Eclipse has never missed a beat in years...but these are tools that need very careful cleaning and care.

Wow - I can't believe it has been almost a whole year since my last update.  Mostly because I have been in Florida all winter while the ship has been chillin in Michigan.
Anyway, I have been back in the shop for a while and am in the process of finishing up Chapter 11.  While not done yet it is pretty close. 
Some photos of the current state of affairs is below.  

Finished up the gangways & ladders.  It was nice to finish up the inside details
 


I have to finish attaching the chain links, the fenders & steps and clean up the nail heads & some other little details.  Then I'll be moving on to Chapter 12 in a while.  
Looking forward to that....
Steve
 
 

Hey, I forgot to add a shot of the name plate, also added back in December.
 

 
Swivel guns should (hopefully) be on the way soon, after which I will post a set of final photos.
 
Cheers!

I am truly in awe of your project Michael, and your craftsmanship.
I too am building a large sailing model of a cutter, but a very different project and quality. Mine is a 60" LOA copy of a sailing model of a 10-gun naval cutter built by four British veterans of the War of 1812 in the early 1830s. The original model resides in a small museum about 400 yards from where it was completed, and has never left the town. It has been altered by two well-intentioned but poorly-informed restorations and my project started as an attempt to reconstruct its original form and functionality. The model is greatly simplified, but almost everything on it once worked--including the pump and the guns! I still haven't managed to figure out how to make the elm tree pump valves. The project is as much a great dive into local and naval history as it is a modelmaking challenge. My project started with initial research in 1997; I now have my sails and hope to start rigging as soon as time and workspace permit.

Wow...great work scratch building those blocks, Peter!

Upper & Lower Foremast Ramshead block

Hi Guys,
 
First of all I would like to take the opportunity to give a big thanks to some of my fellow modelers and followers of my log. Especially @ccoyle @Knocklouder @Baker @CiscoH @BenD @Cathead @BobG @goetzi73 @Barbossa @VTHokiEE @Paul Le Wol 
If I forget some folks, I'm sorry, I want to thank you too! If you're new here, grab a chair and welcome! 
 
Back to the shipyard....
I have started on the blocks that hoist the yards of the Foremast. These blocks are large and the load is distributed over quite a few discs. I believe these blocks are called Ramshead blocks. For this ship there is an upper block and lower block per mast. I can use the standard plywood things from the kit, but I didn't think they really fit with the overall appearance of the ship.....so I'll have to scratch them. To make them on this scale.... that's a challenge...... I tried to make them out of a solid piece of walnut and tried to mill the slots. That didn't worked out at all. I know, it's probably my skill and tools that's the problem....
In the end I came up with a sandwich construction that is also called lamination in wood construction. you glue a number of layers together as is also done with plywood, however, now completely made of walnut.

It starts with a drawing to scale.... I have to work with 0.5mm thin veneer and 0.8mm for the discs.
The discs are 6mm and 4.5mm in diameter.
 


Upper block
the 0.5mm veneer I had in my stash, the 0,8mm I didn't. So I had to use my tablesaw to cut these.....
In the end I used a slicer to cut all my lengths needed for the parts....
 

All the parts waiting on assembling
 

second stage where some of the parts are placed and glued....
 

Then all the lengths glued together to form a whole....
 

After this I shaped the block in it's final dimensions and shape.....
 
 

Lower block
The proces to make the lower block is exactly the same as the upper. So I left all the steps in between behind and show you the end result....
 



Both self made blocks besides the plywood parts provided within the kit....
 



To compare the size of the blocks with my index finger....
 



And that's done for the Ramshead blocks of the Foremast. It was nice to work with wood again after all that sewing work....

Thanks for following me and see you soon,
 

Lovely work OC

Thanks  Mike,     yep   when I get round  to  it  I intend  to  display  her  as  in her sinking,  on a  gel  sea  display.
 
OC.

I have  been  doing a  bit  of photo  editing  in my  Lightroom  and decided  to re  post  these  -  they  show  the  damage  to the  upper  bridge  after that  German  shell  passed   through  it,   and   a  general  scene  of  both  remaining  hull  parts  before  she sank.
 
OC.

Finished planking bottom and sanded. Added prop and rudder.

Thanks Ras,
 
I’ll keep that in mind as a “fix” if needed. Hopefully the steam plant I have will do the trick.

Building this kit up will probably be a once in a lifetime affair for me as it's not practical to envision doing another of the same kit. Because of this I want to add upgraded parts where it seems they provide a significant level of detail to help the finished model look like the real thing. It gets pricey though. Here is what I intend to add to the engine assembly at this time:
Nickel plated acorn nuts for the cam covers:
Nuts - Acorn - Nickel Plated Brass 1.0 mm - A007n – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com)
 
Upgraded water pipes, hose, and hose clamps:
Alfa Water Pipes - A024 – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com)
 
Distributor linkage kit:
Distributor Linkage Kit - A005 – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com)
 
Spark plugs
Spark Plugs - Z008 – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com)
 
ignition wire
Ignition Wire - Z038 – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com)
 
Plug wire boots
Boots - Z039 – Model Motorcars (model-motorcars.myshopify.com)
 
In addition to the above parts, I may add some 3D printed resin parts as well depending on price and availability (waiting on word back from Paul Koo)
 
All through the building of this kit, there are a large number of upgrade options to consider. All will require time and money to go that route but in some cases it seems worth it. I don't intend to rush to finish this kit, just going to do it one sub-assembly at a time.

I sure am glad that the former owner only started the engine and transmission. It is a mess to say the least. Connecting rods facing in wrong positions; cylinder sleeves upside down in several places; none of the parts were properly prepared before assembling. This is a rescue project in the pure sense of the word.
Because of the glue, the crank shaft was cracked in several places where I had to separate the journals in order to release the connecting rods and place them facing in the correct direction. I carefully sanded, shaped and glued the broken pieces back together. I'm not too worried about the repaired pieces as all are internal and will not be seen once the engine is painted and reassembled. I have lots of cleanup and careful fitting to do before putting any of it back together.

I've always wanted to buy one of these kits..........but the closest I can come are two of the Monogram kits {1:16}.  nice to see another log of these great models  

Kevn, you can do as others do and add a profile for the business.