Ryland Craze

So on to attaching the first plank.  Like basically everyone I found out my fairing of the bulkheads wasn't as great as I thought.  Not shown in these pics but I had to slip a tiny piece of wood into a gap between the first bulkhead and the plank.  You can see my clamping method which worked pretty well, especially as I had spent so much time trying to bend the strip to be very close to my penciled lines on the bulkheads.  Due to Timidity I attached 5 bulkheads at a time, allowed them to dry, and then evaluated my technique.  I also found out that if you are using heat to make the plank bendy you can dry it out so much that even a little bend can break it (See below pic on about 6th bulkead).  But the break glued back fine.
 
I used a piece of my second planking (Holly) as a wedge in rabbit joint at the top of the stem to make sure there will be enough space down the road.  
 

 

 

 
The aft end of the plank is very exciting- it curves upwards and inwards, and the final 1 cm also twists to follow the transom edges.  Before gluing the last few inches I wetted the strip and twisted the end while using the travel iron. Couldn't take a picture I don't have enough hands but it worked really well.
 
I also wetted the outside of the plank as I attached it in the hopes it would swell a little and curve inwards, and not break like it did amidships.
 
And thats the state of the union.  Have a great night, thanks for reading, Cisco
 

This update has been long delayed because I wanted to triumphantly post after easily putting on my first plank, Chuck makes it look so easy.  Getting the plank bent so I was happy with it took a LOT longer than I planned.    So 2 posts follow.
 
First I cut and filed square the slots for the knightheads and timberheads.  This is a sort of deviation from Mr Hunt's practicum; he shows cutting a stopped notch for each head; like some of the other AVS logs I cut the notch all the way through which seemed much easier to cut and should provide more glue surface.  Its hard to get the notch perfectly flat though, the heads tended to rock a little but after gluing seemed solid enough.  I chose to shape them after gluing.  A small wedge made the starboard timberhead more secure.  Sorry the first pic is a little out of focus.
 

 
After filing down the Heads so they seemed to follow the deck sweep it was on to shaping the first plank.  I rewatched Chuck's planking tutorials, made myself some planking holdey pieces, got out my travel iron and went to work.  Below is my Bending Station Mark I.  I bent the strip and fixed it with the shown clamps, wetted the basswood strip with a small amount of water wiped on with my finger, then used my warmed up travel iron to run along the strip until the water was evaporated.
 

 

 
In the Practicum you mark the deck line on the outside of the bulkhead extensions, then add 2 more marks, one 1/8" above and another 1/8" below this mark.  Then you mark the planking strip down the middle, and align this mark with the deck line.  I reversed the mark on the planking strip it should have been facing inwards, but no biggie.  The strip bends dorsally just aft of the main deck and is supposed to end with its lower edge on the joint between the wing transom and the filling piece.  This is a pretty hefty upwards bend. 
 
I ended up replacing the rounded piece of wood I bent the plank around on the Bending Station (basswood in the above pics) with a bigger and more gently rounded piece of walnut in the below pics.  I kept getting too sharp of a bend, then I had the bend it the exact opposite direction an inch aft, and my strip was looking very wavy. 
 

 
I had figured on a learning curve and this one strip took my free time over 2 weeks.  I was aiming to have a strip, per Chuck's directions, that would stay in place with only finger pressure and not have to be super clamped into submission.  
 
more soon, thanks for reading, Cisco 

Hi Richard, have to be honest:  you planning this online workshop is what really triggered my joining MSW.
I was browsing this amazing forum as a visitor, when I stumbled upon your post. I am a complete newbie (not in age though), but would be honored to attend your workshop.
Have never build a ship model so far (my experience is restricted to a few balsawood rc model airplanes) and have minimal experience with 3D CAD software. But, I was always interested about trying conceptual design on a computer, and then transfer it from screen to wood.
Unless this is actually for advanced members, I would like to attend.
You might as well use me as a benchmark for your presentation , in the likes of ''For Dummies'' series of books!. 
Regards, Peter
 

Made my first boxwood deck ladder. Not bad!  Making my hatchway ladder. Hoping I can get a bit better symmetry between the two sides. 
 

 

 

 
 

Tomorrow marks the 40th anniversary of the lifeboat Solomon Browne's courageous attempt to save the crew of the Union Star which had engine failure and was drifting towards rocks off the Cornish coast. All crew members perished in a brave attempt. Coxswain Trevelyan Richards refused two members of the same family aboard such was the difficult nature of the sea. RIP brave men, your memory lives on.

I’ve added benches and wrestled the rails into place (for the most part!)
 

Thank you all very much for your kind words and generous appraisal of the diorama.  It means a lot coming from such a talented group of modelers.  This dio has been great fun due in large part because of you folks here at MSW and I thank you for that and for allowing me to share it with you.  I look forward to catching up on all your projects.
 
Gary

More detailing and the addition of Quarterdeck Carronades.
 

Four 12-pounder carronades awaiting their breeching ropes. The Vanguard carronades are cast resin to which you add small P/E parts for the cascabel breech loop, an elevation arm and a sight at the end of the muzzle. This last item - the tiny sight piece - is the smallest item I've yet to encounter in ship modeling! In the case of the smaller carriage assemblies, the straps to hold the carronades were made from 1.5mm wide black card stock which was considerably easier to fashion and mount than the small P/E pieces that didn't like the compound bending required to get them right.
 
Two carriages are the smaller configuration (foreground) while the other two are similar to the larger long cannon carriages...because...
 

 
... the carronades at the aft most position needed the additional elevation to aim above the bulwark capping. This view shows all four in position, muzzles protruding between timberheads and clear of the subsequent shroud and backstay rigging. The breeching ropes (next on my mini-list), will have served loops that hook over the timberheads.
 
Adding the carronades to the quarterdeck gave the 5th & 6th rates even more intimidation power during close encounters. The evolution of this technological and manufacturing armament refinement led to even more carronades being placed on the ships; the Foc'sle got two additional carronades and as the ships were modified or re-designed with additional built-up bulwarks (to protect the fighting gun crews), the calibre of the short-range weapons increased to as much as 24 lb capacities (a doubling).
 
I decided to show HMS Camilla in this later era of adaptation to technology; as the British Navy entered into even greater conflict with France at the end of the century, the new weapons  (and superior expertise of the sailors), gave the entire English navy decided tactical advantages. 
 
 

Swabbing the channels...with a Wipe-On polyurethane, except it isn't wiped-on. I use compact swabs for detailing the components I want to have a polyurethane finish (Satin). These come in mulitple packs from Tamiya. This is a final step before attaching the deadeye assemblies on all the channels.
 

Another view of applying the satin polyurethane to the exposed pear pieces. I choose this finish, in part, to emulate the old-school finishing that typically used either varnish or shellac on models, both natural wood finishing materials.
Don't forget to mount eyebolts to the channels before you rig the deadeyes and chains. The same applies to the stunsail boom hardware shown here.
 

 
Carronades in-place, some deadeyes mounted. The majority of the model's pear wood components have been carefully coated with a satin finish and left to dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding with any additional handling (thinking the chains and deadeyes).
 

 
12 lb carronades on the quarterdeck. These stubby cannons could lob salvos of various metal bits at an enemy ship in close range. This subsequently became known as "schrapnel." Certainly, the deadly shards of metal could kill or wound an enemy's sailors but the prevailing tactic was to aim the beefy, short-range cannon at rigging and sails. If the enemy ship's propulsion system became compromised, it usually led to their subsequent capture - a priority for many a captain and his crew - and, in many instances, prize money for all.
 

My preferred poly finish. Oil-based, it takes a while to fully dry, especially in cold months. The cotton swabs from Tamiya shown here for scale; the swabs are very narrow and allow one to apply the synthetic finish in tight spots. Once dry, the poly finish is very tough; to my eye it also appears to deepen the underlying colors of the surfaces to which it is applied - a benefit in addition to protecting the hardwoods from moisture, ultraviolet light - the ravages of time...
 

Don't forget to attach the various eyebolts and the stunsail boom stirrups and brackets to the fore and main channels before mounting the deadeyes and chains. A handful of midship hammock cranes have been rigged with their ropes. In addition to the exposed natural pear woods, I've also applied the satin poly finish to the wales.
 

 
I decided to add even a little more pizzazz to my über-detailed belfry: a copper sheath on the fancy capping piece. I added a little darkening chemical to "age" it. I like the look of the belfry's contrasting brass bell. The Falkonet 9mm pear belaying pins are in-place and stained. The foc'sle safety rope stanchions have been rigged.
 
I'll note once again that these 300- 500% close-up photo magnifications have the effect of raising one's game. When I download the photos from my iPhone to my computer, I'll see all kinds of things my normal vision doesn't catch. I'm using the "zooming" software in my phone for the enlargements; this is not ideal since it lowers the resolution, however the benefit is very effective for evaluating where I need touch-ups - and in a worst case, a do-over...
 

 
I've chosen to make Camilla's deadeyes black; to accomplish this I use Fiebing's leather dye in their black solution; the company makes a number of colors. The dye penetrates tight hardwood grains, is permanent and dries flat. Get some on your fingers and it will be there for a month or two (just kidding, but it does GO DEEP)!
 
Before dipping the deadeyes into the dye, I gently sanded-off most of the finish on the kit's supplied deadeyes (large and small) with a small nail file. This is quite fiddly and time-consuming indeed, but worth it to me. If the shiny finish on the deadeyes isn't removed, the dye only gets into the holes and the routed exterior rope channel effectively, which isn't where I want it.
 

 
A mild dilemma: the arrows point to a selection of rope stanchions on the quarterdeck bulwarks; I'm not certain these were used for hammock cranes in addition to being safety lines, but possibly. The position of these tall metal bars appears to interfere with the shroud line rigging for the mainmast. I've mounted them temporarily and I'll soon find out if they interfere.
 
I like the look of the black deadeyes matching the black bulwark capping, the sharp contrast with the pear channels and other pear bits. I don't know how historically accurate this is; however, I do know that I've seen dozens of Royal Navy models of the era with black deadeyes!
 
I await my black eye from someone here who can offer more detail on this bit of arcana!
 
Ron

Rusty, I know you are a skilled craftsman, and possibly considered this, but I had great results cleaning my trucks on a low speed rotary tool..
 
Too late for you, but might help someone else..
 
 

It has been a week of trills and spills! And as result, we are shopping for another car. On the plus side, everyone involved was able to walk away with at most a few scrapes and cuts and a story to tell.
 
Regarding my humble project, I decided to clean the plates and give a go. As backup, I have copper tape if I lose faith in the plates. 
 
I wondered how I might make consistent bends in the plates for the keel.  I started to think about mini sheet metal brakes and such. Eventually, it occurred I already had the perfect tool on hand.  @Landlubber Mike kindly recommended the ‘Bug’ for photo-etch and the like for another project I’m flailing a way at.
 
With a little bit of tape, I converted the Bug into a jig for bending my little plates uniformly to fit the bottom of the keel. I added the blue tape to show the edge of the clamped area then removed the top and added the tan tape as an automatic ’depth-gauge’, so every piece would stop at the same point, resulting in the same bend for each piece (in theory). There is a little variation and later I added a second piece of tape to thicken my brake. The bent copper fit snugly on the keel. So far so good.



 

Thanks Mike, Druxey, I'm glad you like it.
 
Here's a little bit more. There was one simple kit modification I've wanted to make.
 
The inside of the bulwarks, for lack of better term, is smooth on the model. That's simply a copy of the way the museum model is constructed, which always kind of bothered me. There's a great illustration of samurai fighting on the deck of an Atakebune that I found on a Japanese blog site dedicate to the late Mr. Kenjo Tanii, who worked with and did illustrations for the late Professor Kenji Ishii, who is well known for his work on the history of Japanese boats.
 

 
There's some great illustrations of Atakebune on the page I got this from. There's also a lot of great historical information, but it's all in Japanese. However, you can get a lot out of it by running it through Google Translate. In fact, here's a link through Google Translate. Scroll down past the aircraft carrier information to find the entry on Atakebune: https://navy-ap-teacup-com.translate.goog/applet/kanzo/archive?b=30&_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US
 
 
In any case, I went ahead and added this feature to my model...
 

 

 
Now that I'm well along on two of the three main components of this kit, I figured I might as well start off on the third component, which is the castle structure. So, I glued up the parts that form the basis of the structure.
 

 
Construction was pretty easy and straightforward, but it took a bit of trimming of the deck opening to get it to fit nicely. 
 
Here's what the whole thing looks like when it's all together at this stage.
 

 

 
In the bottom image, you can see where it's missing my customized parts, which I have yet to replace due to breakage.
 
 
I've been thinking about making those pieces from thicker wood, say 1.5 or 2mm vs. the original 1mm sheet wood. I guess I should try it, since I've made one set of hull pieces already and need to make another. Why not, slightly thicker wood?
 
 
 
 

I noticed that the garboard plank I had glued in place was a bit off at the molds as the plank edge was not quite at the edge of the molds.  I used alcohol to unglue it so I could try get the edge of the plank lined up better.  It was not as awful as I thought would be, --just allowing  the alcohol time to work and taking the plank off a bit a at time. I was able to align the plank  better the second time . I glued down the other side and prepared the second planks.  I soaked one of them and put it to bed with lots of rubber bands.  
 
Lessons learned
- watch the alignment of both edges of the plank.
- since the plank is at an angle a small misalignment at the bow was much bigger at  the molds at the middle of the boat
- Ungluing using alcohol to correct a mistake was not as terrible as it thought it would be. I had a plank that was a bit off on the Dory and I was too worried about messing it up more  so I did not correct it. It came out OK-- but I know that plank is there!
 

 
 
 

Glad to hear you like it! I was reminded of a bit of advice after using mine last night: the cutter can handle some relatively thick stock, but as you go thicker it gets easier for the blade/arm to deflect and produce a non-square end. It isn't like a miter box where the cutting blade is locked in place. So just be aware of that, at times I've needed to square off cut ends with a file or other tool. Other times I've used the cutter to mark a precise cut and then finished it with a miter saw to be sure the cut was square.
 
Also, change the blades as soon as you feel it's not cutting right. One of the  great things about this tool is it's designed to use basic razor blades, not some custom design, so it's easy and cheap to keep sharp.
 
Happy Holidays to you as well, I look forward to this project coming back on the table, so to speak.

Although the "workshop" has been put away for the holidays, the "Cutter" arrived today, and I just had to try it out!  It worked well, and I cut 10 very evenly cut "keel blocks" and I trimmed the 32 bed timbers to a consistent length.  They aren't perfect, but only because my original cuts didn't square off the ends very well.  (The Cutter does a nice job on the ends!)
I didn't want to continue to trim, as the 3" "target" length is now down to 2 3/4" and I figured no one would notice the slight imperfections in length!
Happy Holidays everyone, and see you again after the New Year!

You have done a beautiful job.  I love the pear wood and the contrast between the different planks.  Can't wait to see more.

I suspect that you're prety much spot on with your assessment.   In a way, we can point to the lockdowns and also as youi put the "physical crafting".

From one newbe to another welcome aboard matey!

From another location in the PNW a warm welcome to ModelShipWorld.
 

Welcome to MSW, Rock.

Welcome aboard Rock. Ex-Navy man here. You’ve picked the best place to come to jump into this hobby!

Thanks for the advice on the Crafty Sailor. I went on their site last night and ordered up some belaying pins. 44 minutes later I received an item shipped email. Such fast service I thought I accidentally ordered from Syren!
 
 
I agree Glenn. As far as the wheels go after 96 of them sanded down to remove the char the tips of my fingers will have all the "char" removed from them too!
 
Thanks everyone for stopping by and all the likes.

I enjoy so many things about ship building. Eye bolts and rings are not one of em. Tons more to go. 

Temporarily fitting deck beams. Need to get all the eye bolts and rings installed next. Guess I better order my windlass kit.

Ships stove complete. Waiting for paint to dry to start some weathering. That stove is an awesome little kit. I'm gonna be spoiled for other models now.