Keith_W

Hi Richard, I sanded it down freehand. But if I were to do it again I would glue a handle on it with some PVA and sand it face down on some sandpaper. The handle can be removed with alcohol later. Any residual glue marks would be hidden under the planking.

Yes Richard, that's what I did. I sanded it back and then planked over it.

That's great, another Bounty Launch! Join the club, i'll be following this one.

The usual recommendation is either epoxy or super glue. Personally I prefer epoxy.

She's gorgeous, Pete! I love the colour!! I don't want to sound like a critic, but there is a bit of orange peeling in that finish. May I respectfully suggest that you sand it back with some fine grit sandpaper and spray again? I used to do gloss finishes all the time when I was making car models, I would frequently apply 3-4 coats, sanding back each layer with #1200 grit paper.

Pete she's certainly an interesting looking boat. Far more angular than Australia II - looks more aggressive, whereas KA-6 more graceful. I never realized the difference until your build log. Just goes to show how nicely you have captured the lines! I'm also excited to see what you are going to do to the cockpit. Keep it up and please keep us updated!

Jack, those little nails really make the ship. Congratulations on your build, you must be so proud.

Pete I somehow missed the start of this one, but no matter ... i'm here now and glued to the screen! I was in Fremantle in 1987, only a few years before I migrated to Australia. So no prizes for guessing who I was rooting for. Unfortunately, Australia IV didn't get very far and Kookaburra III was soundly trounced by S&S. Fremantle was transformed by the Americas Cup - before 1987, the town was pretty grungy and more or less a hangout for hippies and druggies. After 1987 she had been given a lick of paint and really took off. Fremantle is beautiful now, and it was all thanks to the Cup.

Hi Pete, you can do the lettering by doing them up on a computer then printing it on a wet transfer decal.

Pete, she looks really nice. But speaking personally, I think she would look nicer if you had modelled the cockpit as well.

Looks good Denis! Now you'll be snapping at my heels and the other RW builders when you start! BTW I love the way you lowered the yards with the furled sails. A little detail that many people omit.

Very good, Vince. I was planning on starting the second hull planking before I got up to the level of the main deck.

Thank you for your explanation, Nigel. I have been thinking of trying your method, but I am not sure if it would work with my ship being 1/72 scale. Your Mordaunt is 1/60 scale and it looks absolutely beautiful. I guess i'll just have to experiment and see if it works!

Thank you for your answers, Nigel and Allan. I am pretty sure that I saw Dr. Mike apply his caulking paper to all his planks simultaneously by clamping the planks together in his video, but I would have to look again to make sure. Using your method, I would be concerned about glue going up the sides of the planks - if they dry on the sides, they won't be flat and they may be difficult to lay on the deck? Do you wipe the glue off the side of the plank before it dries? Do you shave off the dried glue when you cut the planks free of the caulking tissue?

Thank you Nigel, I have been waiting for this. I do have a couple of questions - why do you lay the planks separately, and what stops them from falling over given that you have laid them on the edge? What happens when you clamp the planks together, spread glue over the entire clamped face, and then lay the tissue paper on top? I really like the result. I want to try this!

By the way, if you look for Antal Dorati's recording of Tchaikovsky's 1812 overture, you will find a recording of a real cannon from 1775. Amazon link here: http://www.amazon.com/1812-Overture-Capriccio-Italien-Wellingtons/dp/B000PMFTE0 The cannon appears first as part of the music, then in the next track it appears by itself.

Sorry to disappoint Brian, but I have nothing new to show Everything has gone crazy, and I suspect I won't be able to do any work for the next couple of weeks

Hi Bootes, to be honest I have been assisted greatly by following other build logs here and by the availability of the "interpretive info" on Euromodel's website that I linked to in my first post. This is quite an enjoyable build, but I am learning that a Euromodel kit is not quite the same as a kit from Amati or Model Shipways. It is a kit in name only, in that you are theoretically supplied with enough material to build a boat. However, if you hang around this forum for too long, your expectations of how a boat should be built becomes quite high - which means a lot of scratchbuilding and modifications. The presence of the LED's in the rear indicates that I am planning to discard the kit windows, which are supplied as solid chunks of metal. I have had sleepless nights wondering how on earth I am going to make those. We shall see! As for the flickering LED's, thank you for suggesting the modules on eBay in the other thread. To install those, I would have to undo some work I have already done, but that's OK. I would install the flickering LED modules inside the ship and power them through the support stands. I will have to think hard about where i'm going to put them though - because the second deck has already been installed, access to the first deck is permanently sealed - which means that options for placement becomes very limited!

Bootes you are probably right that the sounds should be to scale. But the thought of causing involuntary bowel actions when I am showing off my boat tickles me pink. As you may have figured by now, I am not a very nice person

Yes Antony, I saw your thread about flickering LED's with an Arduino board. To be honest I am a little intimidated by that solution, but I did look into it closely. I am currently wiring up my latest project for LED lighting (see my signature), but I decided not to bother with the flickering effect.

Me too. Which red are you planning to use? I am experimenting with Vallejo Flat Red but I am not sure if it is too bright. I understand the red should be the colour of blood?

Bootes I am looking for a source of flickering LED's for the cabin of my current build. If you know of one, please let me know. BTW, re: the sound. Little computer speakers hidden somewhere in the model won't cut it. What you need is a massive subwoofer under the table and a smoke generator. That will really surprise people who are expecting a tinny sounding "boom" to come from your model

Only just saw your log. IMO the problem with many models I have seen of junks is that they do not capture the "Chinese" feel, but yours does that really well. I love the sails and the stern ornamentation as well as all the little details that you put in there. Well done!

Very nice! Perhaps you could do them all at once by inserting wires through the hole and binding the deadeyes together? The irregular drilling of the holes will see to it that each deadeye is slightly different, since that's the look you are going for?

Yes, I agree with Brian. Remember that when you are inspecting the boat from the side, those gun blocks may be lit from behind, so it could be visible. BTW, I may have missed it - but as you know the hull planks between bulkheads A and 3 are not supported (after B is cut off). I am a little nervous about how I am going to keep those planks straight. Yours are beautifully straight, how did you do it? Also, are you planning to reinforce those planks? I have been calculating the thickness the hull should have at that point. I am going to assume that the hull thickness should be the same as the gunport lining (6mm). I have measured the first planking thickness at 1.4mm, and second planking thickness at 0.8mm. So, to get 6mm hull thickness I would need to laminate 3 lengths of first planking (3 * 1.4 = 4.2mm), and two lengths of second planking (2 * 0.8 = 1.6mm), which will produce a hull thickness of 5.8mm, before glue is taken into account. I notice that PiratePete's I-I suggests that only two layers of first planking are needed (i.e. 2.8mm), whereas Keith Julier suggest one layer of hull planking and another layer of second planking material (2.2mm). It seems as if my assumption about the correct hull thickness at that level is twice of that suggested by PiratePete and nearly three times what Julier did! What are you planning to do? (Sorry for these detailed questions, all of us RW builders have to confront the same problems!)