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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    I know we've slightly high-jacked this thread but I just had to add this to clarify Drop Bears https://australianmuseum.net.au/learn/animals/mammals/drop-bear/ Rick
  2. Rick01
    Cabbie - do a search for "Cutter Mermaid" in topics, content only, custom dates 01/01/14 ~12/02/19. It should bring up a few questioons I've raised at various times. These will hopefully help. Rick
  3. Rick01
    Sorry Harry way off - I'm referring to P.P. King commander of HM Cutter Mermaid. He has left a number of water colours of her plus a sectional sketch which allows for you to position deck fittings. The plans with the kit are good up to a point but accuracy is not the best, She carries a flying gaff not a topsail, the lower mast cap needs to be remade as it does not provide sufficient space before the foot of the top mast for the spreader to sit. None of his sketches show culverines, frames probably need omitting as they don't appear on models of that period ....... The sketch I'm referring to also helps with basic rigging. My build pictures may help a little. Hope this helps rather confuses. 😊 Rick
  4. Rick01
    Best way here is for you to look at this https://silentworldfoundation.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Signals-86_pp14-20-30-31-Mermaid-2.pdf . It'll tell you little about the ship and show you the drawing I'm referring to. Check it out and then if things aren't clear I'll find my old work somewhere and post it for you. Rick
  5. Rick01
    I didn't find it that big a problem. First off I ignored the layout provided with the kit (along with a lot of other stuff that wasn't properly researched) blew up that sectional sketch by King to match the kit plan size, then dropped lines off it showing the position of everything he had noted on the deck. Transferred to the plan layout and went from there. It's a bit tight in places but one really must assume that he knew his ship after what 3 years? Rick
  6. Rick01
    It's only been a couple of years so that's just a short break! ;-) Rick :-)
  7. Rick01
    Should work well on the finished kit. Rick
  8. Rick01
    Can't help with the technical side but personally I think it's crazy just going to sea in an armed 50ft row boat on steroids! 😉 Rick
  9. Rick01
    Ahh - but which foot? One of them is an "Otto Bock" basic type. 😉 Rick
  10. Rick01
    Is this available in Australia yet? Rick
  11. Rick01
    Looks good - having it set up that way makes more sense (to me) than the plans. Rick
  12. Rick01
    Looking great - not far to go now! Rick
  13. Rick01
    I did use the supplied cannon and made (rough) carriages designating them as 3lb size. https://www.arc.id.au/ArmstrongPattern.html gives various dimensions and details if you want to turn a few on a lathe at 6lb dimensions. Rick
  14. Rick01
    Sounds good to me! Could also have run a line off it through a block up on the jib and used it to stow cannons in the hold (or possibly a ski tow rope). What I have seen a few times are those rollers that you can just see sitting on a bar mounted just behind the mainmast. Rick :-)
  15. Rick01
    Love the work on the pumps and small windlass. I used a heavy black card to make my pump handles, sandwiched layers together to make a solid handle with a slot in the end for the plunger. You going to position the small windlass by one of the hatches? On the Trial they're actually for raising and lowering the centreboards. Rick
  16. Rick01
    I did some further checking and it looks as if it's a fifty/fifty choice, so I've learn't something. Can't really go wrong following "Trial" however (as long as you don't try dropping those centre boards in 😉 ). Rick
  17. Rick01
    Hope you haven't glued anything yet - the holes for the bars should be on alternate faces left and right for ease of use. Looking really good otherwise, as for your chisel, I'd love to be that good but as I'd probably stuff up something that small I have a nail with the point filed to a square section, drill hole, insert nail, couple of sharp taps and it's done. Rick
  18. Rick01
    A quick hi from Frankston Victoria 🙂 Rick
  19. Rick01
    You're following "Trial" I'm guessing - the rings that I see are those on the deck for the guns and would have a hook off the block through them so that there's no gun tackle laying around when the guns are all stowed. With the ring the orientation of the eyebolt isn't quite as important - anyway that's my interpretation of it! Rick
  20. Rick01
    Just noticed this when I was looking at some Master Korabel kits. It's not a bad illustration https://craftysailor.com/collections/fittings/products/windlass Rick
  21. Rick01
    If you look closely at the one you've illustrated you can just make out a set of holes for the levers added to the main drum (rt side of the windlass). I guess that may be for additional leverage if ever required. I agree that building your own is really the best way of getting something that is true to the period and actually usable! About the only thing we all agree on is the shape of the support/mounts for it. 🙂 Rick
  22. Rick01
    Hopefully this will help. It's a bit flashy but gives a clear idea of the basics http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/68378.html . All the manufacturers seem a bit slack in this area as Popeye has said. Rick
  23. Rick01
    The windlass supplied isn't the best, there should be a pawl and ratchet in the centre with holes either on the drum or on extensions past the supports. The holes are for levers to be inserted to turn the windlass and the pawl locks the operation so that it only operates bringing the anchors up, flip it up and the system runs free allowing the anchor cable to run out. Rick
  24. Rick01
    You can always strip yours down and rebuild it. 😉 This is usually the way, previous builds help improve the later attempts bringing the problems to the fore and providing clues as to how to improve the kit. Rick
  25. Rick01
    The belaying points are fairly straightforward. I used Lennarth Petersson's book as a guide. With the hatches and other structures I think the only one I didn't have to move was the windlass, even the anchor cable goes back to the main cargo hatch if you look closely! Rick

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