BobG

I messed up a plank also and had to remove it and make another one. Then I actually sanded through a "bump" near the bow after I had all the planking done. I just couldn't bring myself to soak it in CA Un-cure and try to take it off and redo it at that point so I delicately made a small splice and glued it in. You can see it if you look closely. I not totally happy with it but my wife said, "You're the only one that's going to notice it." So my build has got some blemishes here and there but, overall, it's pretty nice so far. It seems to me that, unfortunately, we often learn more from our mistakes than from our successes and that appears to be true for me in this hobby! I read an old post here once where an experienced modeler advised a beginner to finish his build no matter what because that was the best way to learn and become more skilled. I thought that was sage advice and so I'm dedicated to finishing this build even if it isn't "perfect." Breath support on the didge can be daunting. I've gotten dizzy playing a big bore didge that required lots of continuous air. People often think that circular breathing is breathing in and out at the same time which is physically impossible. The trick to circular breathing is to use your cheeks to squeeze a "pocket" of air from your mouth cavity to your instrument while simultaneously taking in air through your nose. The pocket of air from your mouth keeps the instrument going while you're taking air in through your nose. Those are two separate, physical actions that have to happen at the same time. It's learning to get the timing of these two physical actions in sync that is challenging to learn. One way to begin to wrap your head around it is to take a paper straw and pinch it so that it restricts the airflow when you blow through it and you can feel the back pressure. Then place the straw in a glass of water and blow through it so there is a small, steady stream of bubbles coming out. Now fill your cheeks with air and practice pushing the air from your mouth through the straw as you squeeze your cheeks together and get a feel for that process. Then it's time to try and take a breath in through your nose when you need to and, when you do that, squeeze the air in your mouth out into the straw gently and simultaneously to try and keep the bubbles going. Trying to do this on this small scale is a bit easier since it doesn't require as much air as it would on your sax and visually having the bubbles as a reference can help. It was exciting the first time I actually got several breaths linked together while maintaining the drone on didgeridoo. Have fun! Bob

I do have some photos, Don, but I've never posted any on the site before. I like the size of the photos you are posting. What size setting are you using? I've been encouraged to start a build log but I've hesitated just because of the additional time commitment and also because I have the uncanny ability to make computer related work go sideways in any given instant! Actually, my son played alto and soprano, not tenor as I stated before and, unfortunately, his playing fell to the wayside once he went to college and now he's busy in his career. He may return to it someday. I came back to playing my guitar after a 30 year absence. I wish I had never set it aside for all those years but that's water over dam now. Didgeridoos are fun to play. Learning to circular breathe is a challenge but, once you get it, it's like learning to ride a bike, there's a moment when it just happens and then it's there ever after. Check out some YouTube videos to see some state-of-the-art didge playing. It's unbelievable what some people can do. There have even been orchestral pieces written that feature the didge. Anyway, I managed to make rods for the windlass using my Dremel but not before snapping two of them. I'm glad Chuck included an long piece of the 1/16 x 1/16 boxwood in the kit. Bob

She's looking great!

More progress. Keep it going...following your log is pulling me along! Beautiful saxes! Seeing them brings back memories of my son when he attended a performing arts school during his middle and high school years and played tenor and soprano sax. I play guitar and have dabbled with a variety of musical instruments over the years including the Boehm and Irish flutes, piano, harmonica and the didgeridoo but my guitars get all my attention nowadays. I even got into making didgeridoos from raw logs until my wife said, "Enough, there's no place to put another didge in our house?" I still have a few logs that are anxiously awaiting their new life though...

I was glad to see your mast tapering set up. I will be using a power drill for that set as well. I hoping that I can use my Dremel to shape the belaying pins. The brass straps will be the first time I've done anything with metal also so, like you, this build has been a great learning experience for me too. I'm retired also but I have a lot of interests that compete for my time. Spending time at my little modeling table is growing on me very fast though. Bob

You've made a lot of progress recently and she's a beauty! I'm right behind you. I'm working on the windlass and the knees right now. I'll be following your rigging. I have the rigging kit but I've never rigged anything so I imagine it will present me with quite a few challenges. Have you already purchased the Winchelsea kit? I've been admiring it and reading some of the beautiful build logs. I would love to build it but I'm not sure I have the skills to do her justice yet. The longboat has been the most challenging build I've done yet although it's is going pretty well for me. I would love to step into some scratch building though. So who knows...I might just take the plunge. I'd be swimming in everyone's wake though! Bob

Wow...your ship modeling is state of the art...perfection! Thank you for continuing to share your beautiful artistry with us. Bob

Simply amazing!

Wonderful!

Many thanks, vaddoc.

I searched online for the Decoart Americana Sealer and found several. Are you using the Decoart Multipurpose Sealer that you brush on? If you have a photo of what you are using that would be great. Thanks! Bob

Great job on your dory! It will be a wonderful model when you're finished. My first boat was the Artesania Latina Saint Malo. It's a dory but I think the Bluejacket model is much better and more authentic. I love the small, working boats of the USA, Canada and the Mediterranean. I wish there were more good quality models of these types of boats. Good luck on the rest of your build. Bob

Vaddoc and wefalck, thank you both so much for sharing your knowledge and experience with us on this topic. I have learned a lot from your well written contributions on this subject and your advice will help me become more skilled at painting. Bob

Thanks for explaining the differences between sealing and priming. I understand that a sanding sealer would be used prior to sanding seal the pores and they typically dry hard which helps when sanding. Does this then leave a good surface to directly apply paint to? Since primers increase the adhesion of paint and can fill and level surfaces, it seems to me that this would be very helpful in providing a good, smooth surface to paint on. Are there situations when a sealer is preferred and situations where a primer is preferred? Bob

I've done all the painting in our house and, although model painting is certainly different, I have found that good quality brushes are easier to work with and do a better job. I'm not particularly brand conscious either as long as the brush is good quality. My wife was a watercolor artist before changing to pastels and she felt that good brushes made a big difference. Looking at how well your painting looks, I would imagine that the brushes you use are well made. Bob

Great information, Ryland, thank you. Do you have a favorite brand of brushes? Bob

This is a wonderful build log of a very interesting model. I'll be following your progress. I just read your member introduction post. We have things in common. I live in Sacramento and am an avid road cyclist and my wife and I have spent 17 weeks traveling in South America (Peru, Argentina and Brazil) including 3 weeks in Patagonia and Ushuaia. The hiking was incredible when the wind wasn't blowing 70 mph! Good luck on your build. Bob

Absolutely gorgeous! You've done a fantastic job on this boat and your build log is wonderful and very informative as well. Congratulations! Bob

I am so glad to hear you say that you've had good results painting over Wipe-on-Poly since I'm just about to do that on the Medway Longboat. Also, the top photo of the stern of the Winnie is jaw-dropping. I believe I will eventually have to build this ship...sooner than later I hope. It's just soooo beautiful! Bob

Wow...stunningly beautiful, Chuck!

I like your adventurous spirit, Fred! When I get interested in something I tend to jump in with both feet also. I'm currently working on the Medway Longboat and loving it. Reading some of the Winnie build logs has certainly captured my attention and, although I'm holding off right now, I can feel the pull. You seem to have a bit more in depth experience than I do at this point since you have completed the Lady Nelson and the Bounty. I started off with a small AL dory, then I built the Maris Stella Batelina and the Midwest Indian Canoe before beginning the Longboat. I'm sure I'd be in way over my head but I do enjoy being challenged and learning... I'll be following your progress closely on this beautiful ship. Congratulations and good luck! Bob

Thanks to everyone contributing to this topic. I'm about to start painting some areas on my Medway Longboat with Vallejo Red Acrylic Paint and this information is very helpful. Vaddoc: I would be happy to paint as well as your photos show! You mentioned that you use a water based wood sealer to prep for painting. Have you ever used any of the Vallejo Grey or Black Primers?

Thanks, Vaddoc, for this great information! On #5 you say to "start dry and finish wet." I'm not sure what that means. Could you explain that part? Bob

She's coming along nicely and looking great!

I'm interested to know how to determine whether a frame is undersized and should be built up or the adjacent frames are a bit oversized and should be sanded down a bit more? I've just eyeballed it when using a batten to check the fairing and made my best guess. Bob