davyboy

Looks good to me. The young dude is on a tight budget and its a great recycle job Way to go bud. Bill 

Michael, this one is for you!  Isn't there a beer commercial with a very similar jingle?  These are my display cases.  They are made of mahogany left over from construction of the house.  There is a can light in each bay (I think you Canadians call them pot lights).  The glass floor of the upper tier allows light into the lower tier.  
 

 
Some of the occupants of my dockyard are Mantua's Peregrine Galley (the first POB ship I built), Mamoli's Roter Lowe, Amati's Prince (abandoned because of terrible plans), Sergal's Cutty Sark, Model Shipways' Fair American, the Lumberyard's Oneida and Mantua's Victory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Then there is my triplet of small ships, Scientific's Cutty (we're not even saying what decade that was built), Admiralty Model's cutter and Chuck's longboat.
 

 
Finally, there is a small display for my other hobby.  Those eggs take up a lot less room than a ship!
 

 
There is a running theme with these ships.  I discovered that I truly dislike rigging.  I keep telling myself that I will finish the rigging on the Cutty and Victory, especially the Victory, but so far it hasn't happened.  That is why I have converted to hull-only models.  Sorry about the photographer in one of the pics, those mirrors make photographs difficult.
 
 

A few final impressions of the Pegasus ready to fly...
 

Hello,
here are further preparations for Installation of carronades and cannons.

Meanwhile accumulated on the deck of my French corvette a lot of "junk". These pieces of equipment I have not yet fixed.

 
On the blank ship deck the holes for the attachment of the breeching ropes can be more easily drilled.

I also built a working aid together. This enables me when drilling support forward in order to guide the drill more safely.

The following are a few photos with an overview of the model. A few clips attached to lines and a flag to be redone.  Vern from our Puget Sound Ship Modelers made available a beautiful walnut board with exquisite grain markings for a base. Unfortunately, it is a few inches too short so the search goes on.
 
The ship still on it's lazy Susan.
 

I got one of these a few years ago. Its a TOY. You will spend more time setting it up than using it. Even aligning the centres when used as a lathe is a nightmare. Even when set up don't expect accuracy, or to be able repeat a cut, the combination of plastic modules, parts and aluminium extruding flexes making it a waste of money. Even the slightest pressure on the tool tip causes it to move. Don't even think of using it on small pieces of brass, or harder. Mine now lives in a box in the garage. I have since started to invest in quality equipment, starting with the Proxxon mill/drill setup with a precision table. I wish I had saved up a bit more and done this in the first place.
 
Sorry for the gloom, however I've had more frustration out of attempting to make the best of a bad job using this kit than anything else I can remember and would not like anyone else to suffer likewise.
 
There are cast aluminium modules available, but its as cheap to buy a small lathe or mill.
 
Al

This evening I had to give the union a run.
First order was to set up the change gears on the Myford lathe to cut 80 threads per inch, then did some test cuts with a freshly ground cutter on some brass.
 
then turned down some 1/4 inch drill rod to .138" which is the size of the major diameter of a #6 machine screw then turning everything by hand(I unplugged the lathe) and taking .001" cuts threaded the shaft, polished it up with a leather strop. Hardened and tempered it then ground three flats with the diamond stone.
 

 
next I turned up the brass nut, and threaded it after the threading was done the clearance hole wad drilled through and then it was parted off.
 

 
Next the male part was threaded and tested with the tapped nut and  .0005" reduction threading cuts until the nut wound on to the thread easily.
 

 
The male part was then parted off and slipped onto the end of some 3/32 tube.
 

 
A couple of tiny refinements and it will work just fine.
 
michael
 
 

The Yards Part 1
The yards,the larger yards have octagonal center sections, and the ones I made when building Pegasus I thought were only just about acceptable, and the way I made those was to file the octagon shape from the dowel. I decided to try a different method for Diana s yards,the two yard sizes, at the large diameter point, are 8mm & 6mm, I tried my new method on a mock up yard in 8mm which proved successful so this is how they were made.
I cut the dowel over length by 20mm, I then ran some tape around the dowel at the ends of the center section,then started to reduce the out ends ( mainly to allow the dowel to go into the small lathe further) I the reduced the center section down from 8mm to 6.8mm, and then I laid in four 4mm x 1mm wood strips top & bottom and both sides,then when dry filled in the gaps with wood filler,when the filler was dry  I filed clean the wood strips, and then filed the filled gaps so that all sides where the same width,this gives a really nice octagonal center section and at 8.5mm just .5mm over size I can live with that.
The next step was to shape and tapper the yard from the octagonal section to the ends in my model lathe, then I cut off the 10mm over length each end to give a nice square end. I made all the yard cleats from ABS plastic adding them as oversized bits and filing to shape when dry. I then added some tape around the octagonal part to simulate the iron bands.
 
Reduced center


 
Building up the center



 
Center now octagonal



 
With cleat and band

Main Topmast Stays
 
There is a preventer stay as well as a main stay for the topmast. These were made in similar fashion to the mizzen topmast stay. There is a Violin block attached to the lower end. I made these from one piece of stock the same way I make the Sister blocks :
 

 

 

 
The stays are served where they go around the mast head and for a few scale feet below the mouse. A Collar is used to hold a lead block to the mast. The preventer stay block is fitted just below the foremast hounds. This would have been considerably easier to fit on the bench before I'd fitted the mast top :
 

 
Here are a few pics of the main topmast stay ready for fitting :
 

 

 

 

 
And some more of both stays fitted. The preventer stay goes on first :
 

 

 
The lead block for the main topmast stay has a collar which could be slipped over the fore mast head. This pic was taken well after I'd fitted the stay - the fore topmast and shrouds had been fitted when I took the pic :
 

 
The sister blocks and their tackle at the foot of the fore mast. Hooks are used to attach the lower blocks to the eyebolts in the deck :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks for the comments John, Shaun, Juergen and Ray .
 
Main Topmast Shrouds
 
Before fitting any of the shrouds the topmast Burton Pendants needed to be made and fitted. These are served all over  I turned the thimbles on the lathe :
 

 
The four sets of shrouds were made up and fitted the same as the mizzen topmast shrouds. Once again the foremost ones are served for their entire length and the others for the uppermost parts :
 

 

 

 
The Backstay is separate from the shrouds and terminates on the aft section of the channel :
 

 
A Sister Block is lashed between the two foremost shrouds. I made these from a single piece of stock in the same way I make "normal" blocks. After first cutting the basic shape on the table saw most of the finish shaping work was done with an Xacto knife :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Hello,
 
thank you all for your kind words.
Mark and Gary, unfortunately did't I have pictures making all these small things, but I post some extra pictures of these things.
 

 
That was the see chest manufactory, I think I made them for the whole navy!
 

 

 
Cups, dishes and buckets for food
 

 
The drums. In this part of the ship live the soldiers.
 

 
and all the other stuff, mostly for the cannons. Now I see that I have two water cisterns in the picture, a smaller bucket like these where for grenades.
 
Today the sun is shining here, it's mostly a wonder after 14 days of rain and that was the opportunity to take pictures of the gun deck without neon light.
 

 
So looks the red paint naturally. It did't look soo red. 
 
Best regards,
Siggi

Richard,The Sailing Man of War was published by Conway Maritime Press in the UK. The English Man of War was published by the Naval Institute Press in America. I rather think that was only a decision by the U.S. publisher to alter the title slightly,the contents are the same.
 
Dave 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

Ed, thank you, your comment means a great deal to me.
 
this evening I am having a hard time wiping the silly grin off my face.
 
Beginning cuts
 

 
Half a day later the last tooth cut
 

 
Back to the lathe for some rough shaping
 

 
I ground up a bit of a form tool to get the curved recess better.
 

 
After parting it off I slipped it onto the camshaft .
 

 

 

 
It is actually on the shaft backwards I have to set it up in a fixture on the four jaw chuck now and machine the eccentric cam for the water pump then it can be flipped to finish the front side.
 
It did mesh nicely though even without any clean up yet,
 
Michael

If you want to learn how to set up your bandsaw properly, take a look at this you tube clip of Alex Snodgrass:
 

 
I watched this, took notes, then went and applied it to my bandsaw (I'm a complete bandsaw neophyte too), and it worked a treat. Very simple and easy to follow.
 
As for ripping planks - I would think you would need a re-saw blade for this. From what I've read, this is what the serious woodworkers use for cutting veneers on the bandsaw.
 
That said, I agree with other advice that a table saw is a better choice for this task.

Richard,The Sailing Man of War was published by Conway Maritime Press in the UK. The English Man of War was published by the Naval Institute Press in America. I rather think that was only a decision by the U.S. publisher to alter the title slightly,the contents are the same.
 
Dave 

The Cutter, secured to the falls from the davits.
 

 
Flags, name on transome and a mounting base before fitting a case.  Cheers, Gil

HI,
I think it is  companionway.
 
Tadeusz

HI
On this period model can be seen from the pulley and rope.
 
Tadeusz
 

Standing Rigging
With all the shrouds and ratlines tied I decided to add as much of the standing rigging as possible before the topgallants masts went on. Again another small issue not enough 5mm dead eyes, to complete all the back stays to the main mast, so some extras were ordered, there are 88 supplied, which I admit I did not count, but I still counted up 90 needed, and at this point I am 6 short, I may have dropped and lost a couple, but who does not, I also think there should be a few spares built into the kit. Next the main and preventer stays to all three topmasts were made up and added, this did meant that bowsprit needed to be fitted, which has the down side of making it more difficult to turn her round, side to side, when adding rigging to each side.
One aspect, I have been having difficult with, is using  the rigging plans, so far I have found that some rigging rope runs overlay others, some of the runs I cannot even work out how they start or how they terminate, maybe it is just me, but, I did not have this problem rigging Pegasus, as a result this promoted me to dig out the Pegasus rigging plans and(in conjunction with Peterssons book), and as Pegasus is a ship rigged Sloop, her and Diana should be rigged nearly the same, so I am using both sets of standing rigging plans, and where I cannot, be sure, or work out, were the rigging runs on Diana s plans go, I will rig her as per Pegasus, this should be OK as naval rigging practices were most likely standard on all ships.

Hi Wayne,
 
I had both copies (one of which I sold to a forum member) which had the same content as far as I could see. Check out Abe Books using both titles,Sailing MoW is described by all booksellers therein as published by Conway. Conversely English MoW is described as PUBLISHED not distributed by Naval Institute Press. Just sayin'.
 
Kind regards and best wishes for 2015.
 
Dave 

Hi Kevin,
 
I know that some people like to glue/pin their masts in position, but I have never found it necessary. The Standing Rigging will hold it securely in place, and if ever the ship were to be damaged, it is then an easy matter to remove/replace the mast (which would not be the case were it to be glued/pinned).

Part 5
 
 
It's the first time that I have to carve decorations. 
 
My first akantus pieces
 

 

 
and than the next parts with leaf gold and in place.
 

 

 
That's my pinco today.  
 
Last but not least : I belive that a ship must have a name. Her name is Gianna - and that's in german Hanna.
 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Part 4
 
The decoration of the transom was a interesting area. First problem was the framing. I wasn't able to make it from wood. 
But the solution was to make it from 2mm soldering wire. In a vice I formed it into a fourcorner.
 
 

 

 
 
Some shots after painting the hull. I use distemper coulors. Tar = van Dyck brown  decorationareas = english red 
 
rails are black.  The frames of the transion and the decoration = leaf gold
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Nenad, these pictures with swimming are maybe at that time. ... for nice memories ..
 
Matija

 
these pictures are older