davyboy

Thanks for the link. If I say what I want to say this would get delete so I won't say, but believe me I am not offended by any means.

Thank you for the link!
 
FWIW I don't see why it should offend anyone any more than the Spanish or French should be offended over Trafalgar, or the British should be offended for losing the War of Independence, etc.

i will remove if this offends anyone
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-30128199
 
 

Not something I've heard of either, but I am surprised that removals took place at sea except under extreme circumstances.
Sailors were /are? a superstitious lot and from the earliest times viewed the figurehead as a symbol of the soul of a ship, a guardian providing comfort and security against the vagaries of the sea.
I would imagine that certainly in the 18th century and earlier removal of the figurehead would be considered very bad luck for the ship and viewed with dismay by the crew members.
 
B.E.

Thanks Dave, make sure you wipe your screen and keyboard every now and then .
 
Main Preventer Stay
 
The Main Preventer Stay is smaller than the main stay (1.0mm diameter) and fits around the mast head above the main stay. It's lower end lashes to the preventer stay collar on the foremast :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you mhegazi and Nils (I'm still not sure about how many sails I'll be fitting, if any).
 
Main Stay
 
Apart from the Anchor Hawse the Main Stay is the largest rope on the ship at 1.4mm diameter. It fits to the mast top in similar fashion to the mizzen stay, and is lashed to the stay collar at it's lower end. The upper end is served to a few scale feet below the mouse :
 

 

 

 
I'd forgotten to fit the Main Preventer Stay Collar before I'd permanently fitted the foremast. It made the job slightly more difficult. To prevent the collar from shifting upward two cleats are glued to the sides of the foremast :
 

 
  Danny

Yes David you are correct. I am hoping to capture some of that magic at this scale. lately inspiration is coming from Mr. Rex Stewart. I am hoping to set a new standard when it comes to modelling seas in a Ship in Bottle Model. Many times I wanted to throw in the towel and go back to plasticine. I will endure and persevere!
Jeff

Hello everyone,
 
Well, dingy version 1.0 is completed and hanging on the loading tackle.  I also managed to lower it into it's storage area.  I lucked out again in that it fit!   
The measurements on the drawings Daniel made worked !!
 
So, now I have no more excuses and must obey Rear Admiral Sjors and start on version 2.0.  Don't hold your breath though, it'll go a little slower this time because I'll be using a different process that'll take more time.  I also need to make more planking and make an actual rabbat at the stern section and bow post.  I plan to make the bow and stern post from separate parts with knees tying them in to the keel.
Nothing like having gained a little more confidence in this miniature building world   Wish me luck.
 
Okay, here are a few of the pics I took yesterday afternoon of my efforts, it doesn't look half bad.
 

This pic is taken with flash, there was not enough light.  1/20 sec at f5.8.  The obvious question Gwen asked, how did they get the dingy into the water with the railing being in the way?  Well, the stanchions lift out of the deck fittings and the guide cable unhooks.  Unfortunately I didn't think about doing that 
 

Here is a better view and taken without the flash!  I rested the camera on a broom handle to steady it and shot it at 1/20 sec at f5.8.  At first I thought the dingy was too wide by looking at it from this angle but it did slip into its little hangar below deck.
 

Another broom handle pic without flash.  Here I have unhooked the bridle cable after having lowered the dingy into its hangar.  Yup, that mechanism works.  I think though that I'll shorten the lifting cable a little on version 2.0.  I didn't bother unhooking the bridle cable.  You  can also see that I stowed the rudder and helm stick, which slipped from the seats.  I believe though that they would store them and the oars inside the lower part of the con..  I just lashed the oars to the seats for the drama and show and tell 
 

Another shot a little closer by.  Come to think about it, I still need to make the stowing cradles for the dingy on top of the hull.  I won't bother with the lashing hardware though, like eye hooks welded to the hull   Hmmm, getting lazy - - - well . . . . .  maybe.
Yes, everything can be unhooked, the loading boom lowered and secured to the deck frame and the hatches closed.  This is all very time consuming so I don't think I'll ever to that again.
I have also not made provisions to make the railing removable, however that is still possible to do but will most likely forget about it 
 
Cheers,

When I was working making and repairing aircraft composite components we had a pair of "butchers gloves" in our workshop. They were made from Stainless Steel link chain just like the old Medieval Armour but much finer. Lightweight,comfortable to wear and both blade and saw proof. Wish I still had a pair as I have had a few scars since  
 
Dave   

Continuation.
 
 
 
Hull in all its glory. Removed from the yard.

What do you think about him?
 
 
 

 
 

 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Hi Dave, after you slice the boxwood into slabs, let it sit for several months in you shop so the wood 'stabilizes' to the moisture level in your shop,  
Also, some of your thicker pieces might need a few more months to air dry.
 
Duff

I recently obtained a quantity of Boxwood. I actually rescued it from a container of "firewood",the average length of the pieces is around 9" with a diam ranging from 3/4" to 2 1/4". It still has the bark on. I bought a bandsaw today so what would be the best way to cut it for modelling purposes ? I was thinking of just cutting it into slices or is it better to leave well alone until required ? The tree was cut down around 18 months ago so I reckon it should be ok to use.
 
Thank you,
 
Dave
 
Mods,if this in the wrong thread please move it.

Brian C and Jaager,
 
Thank you for your replies gentlemen. I cut up a couple of pieces today after setting up the saw and am quite happy with the result but will try to obtain a blade with a finer tooth count. I do have the small Proxxon table saw which is adequate for my purpose. A Byrnes saw and thicknesser are outside my finances unfortunately.
 
Kind regards,
 
Dave

Thanks Jaager,but i don't think I will bother buying a Wood Slicer blade. I had a play today with a larger bit and got a nice 7/8" x 3/4" piece,the cut-off pieces I ran through my little proxxon and have some nice small strips. As I got this wood from a container of firewood I'm quite happy to carry on as is. Every piece is a freebie. I just had a count and have 90 plus pieces to go.
 
Regards,
 
Dave

Thanks Jaager,but i don't think I will bother buying a Wood Slicer blade. I had a play today with a larger bit and got a nice 7/8" x 3/4" piece,the cut-off pieces I ran through my little proxxon and have some nice small strips. As I got this wood from a container of firewood I'm quite happy to carry on as is. Every piece is a freebie. I just had a count and have 90 plus pieces to go.
 
Regards,
 
Dave

You're welcome Robin .
 
Main Lower Shrouds and Burton Pendants
 
I've fitted all the Main Lower Shrouds. The foremost one is served all over, and the others are served for the uppermost quarter.
 
The Burton Pendants are slipped over the mast head before fitting any of the Shrouds. These are used for heavy lifting of any cargo, in conjunction with other rigging on the yards. They have a Thimble spliced into their lower ends, and are made up as a pair with a Cut Splice around the mast :
 

 

 
The foremost shroud is a single and also uses a cut splice to connect the port and starboard shrouds :
 

 
The rest of the shrouds are paired on each side as were the mizzen shrouds. This pic shows all the shrouds fitted around the mast head :
 

 
The deadeyes and lanyards :
 

 
An overall pic of the rigging so far :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks Jaager,but i don't think I will bother buying a Wood Slicer blade. I had a play today with a larger bit and got a nice 7/8" x 3/4" piece,the cut-off pieces I ran through my little proxxon and have some nice small strips. As I got this wood from a container of firewood I'm quite happy to carry on as is. Every piece is a freebie. I just had a count and have 90 plus pieces to go.
 
Regards,
 
Dave

Thanks Jaager,but i don't think I will bother buying a Wood Slicer blade. I had a play today with a larger bit and got a nice 7/8" x 3/4" piece,the cut-off pieces I ran through my little proxxon and have some nice small strips. As I got this wood from a container of firewood I'm quite happy to carry on as is. Every piece is a freebie. I just had a count and have 90 plus pieces to go.
 
Regards,
 
Dave

Ed, I have used Firefox as a default browser on Win 7 and found no problems.
Maury

L.s.
 
It's not windows 7 AND ie11, it's just ie11

Ed, have you tried using Mozilla's Firefox?  I use it exclusively and have no problems. But them I'm a die-hard and am still on Windows XP. My Admiral has Windows 7 on her laptop with Mozilla Firefox and I had no problems accessing or posting to MSW  from her laptop (while my laptop was getting a new fan installed)

And on we go with some trifles :-)
 
I was wondering how to create furniture without it looking like dollhouse toys. Ok, off I went to find out.
 
Luckily I was successful, only have to stick to the true dimensions :-)
 

 
Here the substructure, fast done and quite stable.
 

 
Contemporary drawings always show the tables direction fore aft, so I displayed them over the massive partner of the sternpost. Like this canvas cabins could be erected on the ship´s sides.
The openings on the deck are no litter bins but aft there are the two scuttles of the ventilation trunks of the hold and in the front the scuttle for the bread room and in the middle the one for the Lady´s hole, means the stuff of the gunner. The gratings are flipped open for better ventilation.
 

 

 
Here we already have the name of the area, the gun room. The gunner had his quarters here and was then highest warrent officer in this area.He had a canvas cabin on starboard and larboard was the one from the chaplin. The area also was the mess for the warrent officers, junior lieutenants, marine officers and first class volunteers. Here also the chaplin taught the junior midshipmen. The Area was separeted from the rest of the deck by means of canvas covers.
 
  
 

 
Still have to redo the canvas blinds, but they work well as layout separations.
 
I hope, I got the details right,
 
cheers Daniel
 
PS: Could not resist to show the Tic Tac in place :-)

Hi guys (m/f) ;-)
 
The finished setup:
 

 

 

 
on the sides there will be two more pieces of carving..
 
Best,
Michiel

Hello everyone and thanks for your patience, waiting for the O19 dingy progress.
I finally put the last planks on that little bugger and worked on the gunnels.  I also started to put the rower's seats in and the helmsman seat.
Overall she's not too bad looking for a prototype and will finish it.  It'll be good as a s spare on the display board.
 
In my humble opinion it was a worthwhile excercise.  I found that building a miniature model like this plank on frame is doable.  However, there are several things I will do differently now that I have gained the experience.
First of all I'll use build-up frames to prevent them from breaking. 
Just as with the larger models it's equally important to keep all the frames square and plumb to the keel. 
Working klinker planking with 1.5 mm or so thick planks is a real challenge at these small sizes. Here too a I think that a slightly wider plank that's pre-tapered will work better then to shave it after the plank is on. 
That in itself will be a challenge but I also found it was rather easy thinning the planks down after they are cemented on. 
 
Okay, enough about the should'vs and show how the dingy looks like as of this afternoon.  The first 5 pics were taken this morning before lunch.  The rower's seats are just stuck on loose.
 
The last three were taken late afternoon after I cemented the rower's seats on, made and installed the bow deck and the helmsman seat.  Next will be finishing the gunnels, the oar thingy's, the oards and the rudder. Then some nice dark grey paint.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Cheers,

http://www.zazzle.de/i_liebe_schafe_haferl-168594458353144705
 
;-)
 
XXXDAn