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Everything posted by Canute
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Your painting of that Buccaneer brought back a memory of that first Red Flag for the RAF. My squadron hosted the Buc crews for those 2 weeks. We flew cover/escort for them up to a range in Utah one afternoon. We started down a canyon thru a range of hills and followed them until the canyon got so narrow we were spending all our time avoiding rocks and not providing much cover for the Bucs. They both looked like they were flying on their shadows. We climbed a couple hundred feet and stayed below the peaks of that range, while following. Gained much respect for their skills that afternoon. 👍
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Sopwith Camel F.1 - Model Airways - 1/16 Scale (3/4" = 1')
Canute replied to DocBlake's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Neat old airplanes. And the build video was great. Thanks. -
Denis, some nice fixes to the parts fit. Those older kits had issues there. The left cab seat would probably not get much use by the fireman. He'd be on the deck plates, tossing fuel into the firebox and watching the water level gauges. The fireman was usually the most fit guy on the crew because of all the work he did. Once you get the wheels on, the end caps on the pilot truck, the front set of wheels, would usually show some grease and oil ooze. Just dribble some black/brown around the caps, along with the faces of the wheels.
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Brian, you could look for 1/48 scale model railroad parts. Steam locomotives needed steam whistles. Not being a modeler in that scale, I can't steer you to a specific brand. I can give you a few sites to check out. Klein's up in Baltimore: https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/ English/Bowser's shop in central PA: http://www.toytrainheaven.com/ Wiseman's in Kentucky: http://wisemanmodelservices.com/ Or you could just paint them with gold paint. As we say, it's your model.
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Brian, after Cathead(Eric's) endorsement in his Arabia log, I'm jumping on this bandwagon. Very nice work. 👍 If you haven't already done so, I'd paint the steam whistle brass/gold color. The whistles on steam engines were usually brass, at least on the railroads.
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Daisy cutters were a nickname for aerial bombs fitted with fuse extenders, usually 3 feet long. Aerial bombs would normally penetrate the earth and throw up assorted debris with their usual fusing. Putting extenders on them made them better for anti-personnel use, since they'd explode above the ground. I'd imagine the small cannons on a ship's boat would load rounds of grapeshot or similar anti-personnel loads. Grape was a pretty big slug. Eventually, shrapnel and canister shells were developed with smaller individual pellets.
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You've captured the details of those pumps, Eric. Nice.
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You're quite welcome Roger.
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Roger, I'm not very knowledgeable about Lionel power systems. The best I could do is to check any local hobby shops in Duluth (if you have any left) and see if they carry the Lionel line. Or see if there is a local train show up that way. The ones down here seem to have any number of folks selling used Lionel equipment.
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Very true, Lou. The coming back to this hobby happens a lot. My club has 100 members, more or less. The majority are returners with some skills; mainly guys who have gotten into trains now as they retire, since they may have had trains when they were kids (50 years ago). That's what they say, Scout's honor. The long time model rails, like me, came up with a mentoring program for the new guys to get them up to speed in the club. But one thing it doesn't include is building stuff. A lot of guys are intimidated with assembling a kit. We see that at our local train shows here in western NC. Put a plastic kit, in it's box of parts on a table to sell and it gets looked at and passed over. Put the same kit, already built up, out and it get snapped up. People don't want to spend time building or they are afraid to fail. I keep telling them to try it, they might enjoy creating something to show off their own work. 🤯 And then there is a handful of us who actually scratch build and kitbash stuff. We call ourselves the "Dark Side" or the Jedis. I consider myself a padawan in that area.
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There has been a national organization setting industry standards across the scales since 1935. Meaning if you buy something in HO scale, it won't matter whose gear you use. This applies to locos & rolling stock and portions of the digital command control systems we use. Guys are even working in "dead rail", where the locos run on batteries and follow radio signals. Our current live rail systems need track power for the "choo-choos" to work, but still work off radio signals. I can run trains via an app on my smart phone. And like most "hands on" craft hobbies we fret over the aging of the craftsmen and women and will the youngsters pick up the hobby. My club tries to help there by having in a small group of 10-15 year olds for some "training" once a month. Most move on as they find other pursuits or go to college, but we do snag one or two. And who knows, maybe after a number of years these kids come back to the hobby.
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Jack is correct about the homasote. It's a paper product, sold as a sound deadening material. It's easy to spike to, but if sawing with power tools, it does make a lot of dust. Recommend doing that outside. Get the lumber yard to cut it to the same size as your plywood pieces. Denis, model railroading is one of the bigger "rabbit holes" you can fall into. Good luck in this hobby area.
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Denis, if all you want to do is have something for the grandkids to play with, you don't need to get this deep into making cars like these. They have some nice starter sets with cars, an engine, track and a power pack. Pick up a track planning book to figure out how you want to lay out the track, especially if the set doesn't include one. You should fasten the track down if you get an HO or N scale set. Track tends to move with a lot of activity around it. I'd glue it down. if you expect to leave it set up on a sheet of plywood or foam board. There are a few other model rails on this site, so they may chime in with additional info. Bigger scales (S, 1/64, or American Flyer, pretty rare as a train set these days) or Lionel (O or 1/48 scale) don't need to be fastened down, but I'd put them on a plywood or foam sheet. Keeps the carpet gunk from getting up into the mechanism. I think the newer sets also come with knuckle couplers on everything. They look like miniatures of real couplers. If you buy used, no telling what you will find. That depends on the age. We got a donation recently at the club with metal sided HO cars with knuckle couplers. Very old stuff. Some newer all plastic stuff had couplers called x2f. They do not look like any coupler I've ever seen in real life, but a lot of cars from the 60s thru 90s had those couplers. They were cheap to make.
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Denis, it is an unusual car. It is a box car, but they added hatches to enable loading of the phosphate. Cars were unloaded thru the side doors. There are 2 spots at the bottom of the door that look like mail slots. They are fittings for a fork lift operator to force the door open for removing the phosphate. Why these cars were built new in the mid/late 60s looking like boxcars, I don't know. Kit instructions don't spell it out. The RR that I primarily model switched to covered hoppers like you are thinking of, in the 40s. They hauled cement from a limestone belt in eastern PA. Every RR was unique.
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Vought F4U-1D by Papa - Tamiya - PLASTIC
Canute replied to Papa's topic in Completed non-ship models
Denis, when they were first rolled out for fleet use, the Navy didn't like them. I think it was a high landing speed and or some other issues. Anyway, they pawned them on the Marines, who loved them, but they were primarily land based on Guadalcanal and other early bases. Navy started to use them later in the war.
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