Canute

Sounds about right for me too. Although it's model railroad stuff. Would anyone be interested? Don't want to hijack Craig's thread.

That would be me with the horn in my ear. 😁

Jet noise, shooting, rock and roll and who knows what else. My hearing is OK up to midrange , then does a nose dive at high freqs. I now use rechargeable hearing aids. Although in a crowded noisy area, they aren't much help. Ears are omni directional. Cupping my ears helps, but now I look like the old geezer with the tin horn in his ear.

Eric, my sincere condolences on your loss. It's good to have a support group at times like this.

Nice job with the paint scheme. Your indoor pix look like the 2nd live shot and your outdoor one looks like the first Slater pic. Slick.

Like the previous lads said, Mark. Whatever you need to do and wherever that leads, we can wait. I get what you're saying.

Coming along nicely, Denis. Running gear looks appropriately spindly. The engineer and fireman took a lot of pride in the appearance of their loco. Lots of brass and polish. Had to keep after any unsightly soot buildup. The tender underframe would be pretty grungy, as you'd expect. And the bottom of the engine, between the wheels. Floquil even made a Grimy Black color, kind of a charcoal grey with brown tinges. Hope the cold goes away soon and you feel better.

Popeye, looking good. Thinning the door handle is a nice touch. So will this be "Great Train Chase" Civil War or some later knuckle coupler period? If you do a civil war era, it will be a wood burner.

Denis, we have a lot of displaced Yankees down here in western NC and northwest SC. Still gets cold, bur way less snow. Have 4 actual seasons here. Summers aren't as hot and muggy as the coastal areas, due to higher elevations (Smokey Mountains - south end of the Appalachians).

Sorry to read that Jesse. It's always tough to lose family and friends.

Tamiya Extra Thin with the green cap. It's acetone based so it evaporates pretty fast. Hold parts in place, a quick swipe with your glue brush, count to 5 and it's bonded. Not super hard; should let it set up an hour or so. I generally have 3 kits going, so I can rotate through various steps in a session. May want to rough up the mating surfaces even for CA glue. That works on resin parts, too.

No love for the little ones.

I'm in Jack. Check into Gator Masks. Same guy as the glue maker. The Measure 32 schemes are complex.

Yeah, modern AA gunnery directors couldn't handle the slow speeds of the Stringbags. Greg, that glue is still around, although packaged differently. It still smells. I've been using the Tamiya Extra Thin glue, with the green cap. It's acetone based, to boot. I try and keep the lid on that. CDW, if it's a wingy thingy, I'm in for the duration.

Denis, the wood is appropriate fuel for the Civil War, especially in the South. That pile on the tender is pretty close to what it might look like. Steam engines might only run 100 miles between water fillups and if in hilly country maybe water up even more frequently. And wood could be an issue if it burned up too fast. Soft woods also weren't as hot burning as oak. For modeling purposes, I second everybody else. If you have some dead azalea branches use them for the load. Colors then were pretty bright with reds and yellows. Boilers might be what they called Russia Iron (a blue tinged iron) or green. The General in the museum in Kennesaw is supposedly in period colors, but the brake gear my be a newer system. The Russia Iron blue is sort of like a deep blue chimney color on a wood burning stove. Best google it. Can you take a picture of the couplers? In the early days of railroading, they used a link and pin device. There was a slot in the end of each car and two holes above and below the slot. The pin (think of a long belaying pin) was pushed from top to bottom in the holes, trapping a link (think paperclip shape) between the pins in each car. Back then, the brakeman, whose job it was to insert said pins into the end beams, often had nicknames like "Three fingers", since they could get fingers pinched while coupling up. After the Civil War, railroads got more safety conscious and developed knuckle couplers and air brakes. Also pushed for standard time zones across the country, instead of every station/town having it's own "local" noon.

Cripes, I did that in front of my Mom, after a year in a giant fraternity house in Thailand. Got my mitts on some fresh, hot corn on the cob for dinner one night. Asked Mom for the bleeping salt. Wham, my little 5'2" Mom back-handed 6' me onto the floor. My Dad and sister were roaring in laughter, Dad in sympathy with me (he fought in WW II) and my sister just laughing at my buffoonery.

We had a fatality at the Englishtown, NJ drag strip with a car going off the end and into the weeds some years back. Upshot was the safety zone there was too small. Since they couldn't acquire any more land to get in compliance, they shortened the track to 1,000 feet between the timer lights.

The canard concept was one the Wright Brothers used on their early flyers, along with wing warping to turn. The canard is a forward mounted tail plane with elevator surfaces. NASA experimented with an additional flying surface on some fighters to allow quicker tighter turns. And the Swedish Viggen has canards in front of it's delta wing.

Been there, done that, Lou. "Do you know where you are?" "Well, kinda"

I think they apply them to the foil to allow you to make the flags ripple in the wind. Probably need a flexible paint, like the stuff the RC guys use, since you want the paint to stay applied. I'd use a light gray color as a base, especially under red or yellow colors.

Yep, better looking antenna on the left.

wefalck, it's a free signup. I believe they only want to make sure it's not a robo-site logging in. The booklet is well worth it.

Sounds like the placement for ejection seat handles in fighters. Over your head, on the sides of the seat or between your legs. My preference was the overhead handles since it pulled a restraint out and over the top of your helmet and forced you to keep your arms pulled in tight to your body. Luckily, I only used it in simulations. Safety has to be a habit.

Denis, sounds like my gyrations trying to plumb the brake rigging on assorted HO scale railroad cars. Many holes are too small for the locator pins or assorted rods and piping. I end up reaming out or going to larger drills to assist the fit. I'll get some pictures later today to show you. I use fine plastic rodding and similar brass/phosphor bronze wires. Getting the tubing over plugs and distributor heads is frustrating; we need a mandrel to spread the tube end.

Another source for brass wire is a company called Detail Associates. They make a number of sizes or brass wire. Another one is Tichy Train Group. They make phosphor bronze wire in small sizes. The pb wire is a little stiffer than the brass. Check hobby shops with model railroad parts.