Canute
-
Posts
6,351 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Canute
-
Craig, most iron bombs, whether live or inert shapes were a khaki green. Live ordnance would have a yellow band next to the front fuse, inert ordnance would have a blue band. Laser kits were khaki, too. Cluster bombs were similarly painted. AIM-9 Sidewinders have a metallic green forward section. White behind. And yellow or blue stripes near the fuse section. Sparrows and AMRAAMs were white, except the radome/front section was a white ceramic. 12 years as a Weapons Officer did leave some imprint. -
The corporate suits at Testors/Rustoleum feel that solvent paints are passe. I liked the early Floquil, which was lacquer based. Great on any model except the plastic parts (unless you used Floquil Barrier). Good luck with your use of solvent based paint. I bit the bullet and switched to acrylics. My airbrushing technique needs some work, but I can brush paint without putting on a chemical mask. I still mask up airbrushing, due to the particulates.
-
Henke, it's one of the better reproductions of HMS Hood. See this site of the HMS Hood Association for more details: http://www.hmshood.com/hoodtoday/models/trumpeter/trumpeter350.htm The site is very thorough, as you would expect fro the Association. References pro and con, photo-etch, other reviews. It will keep you occupied for a while, absorbing all the info.
- 20 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- prince of wales
- tamiya
- (and 2 more)
-
Henke, nice work. As to rigging sequence: bottom to top, middle to outside.
- 20 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- prince of wales
- tamiya
- (and 2 more)
-
Thanks for the suggestions, folks. Kurt, I don't think I'll be plating anything. I mostly want to get my PE clean and ready for blackening. I have an old Sheepscot Scale Products rail marine pile driver kit. The gantry for the pile driver has a lot of PE, which I intend to blacken.
-
Great thread, thanks. I have a pickling pot enroute. I have a question, though. How do you handle small brass PE bits. Once cut from their thin frets, is the copper tongs fine enough to pick up thin disks used to make up pulley sheaves. Or should you pour everything off through a sieve and put the whole thing into a baking soda bath. What metal should be used for the sieve?
-
Bill, his kits all make up into gems. Yours looks great. 👍 One of my local club members has a number of those FSM kits on his layout. He just had a visit from Model Railroader (MR) magazine doing a photo spread. It may show up in 2-3 years, the way MR puts layouts into print.
-
Saw it out at Edwards AFB in the prototype scheme, back the 90s. Liked it a lot, since it was a two seater. Saw lots of other cool stuff out there, too. Lifting bodies, an SR-71. I'm in.
-
Nicely done, Denis.
-
Put an electric motor in it and watch the mechanism go through the motions. I realize you can't "fire" it up. Great build, Danny.
-
Yes, looks like you could fire it up and operate the mechanism. Extremely nice work, Danny.
-
Great work as usual. What is E6000 glue? Guess I missed that. And where do you get it?
-
If you want to do barnacles, it should be fine sizes. Not powder, but maybe table salt sizes.
-
Like Lou says, look for fairly fine grained track ballast. I saw a model of a New England area pier a few weeks back. The builder said he used a light grey ballast, forgot the scale, but it was pretty fine. Top parts he left gray, the bottom two thirds were algae colored (wet, green shade). My camera died or I'd show you some pictures.
-
Ought to put some barnacles on the lower pilings, Denis. Fine train ballast, light gray maybe.
-
Check Klingspor https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/ls25070/ Been using them for a few years. Cheaper than MicroMark,
- 52 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- artesania latina
- titanic
- (and 1 more)
-
Jan is correct. Light cars should trail the loco and usually are limited to pretty low speeds. The Germans hauled AAA cars, but I seem to remember they were behind the loco. Looked at a lot of WWII gun camera film from my F-4 unit in Germany way back when. They flew P-47s during the war and shot up a lot of stuff. Winter weather in the Eifel being what it was, we had a lot of non flying days to watch historical movies. A good shoot em up was always fun.
-
Lou, I was out of town, so didn't have my loco cyclopedia to refer to. No misstating of info to add any confusion, by pulling an answer out without checking. I've been off, hobnobbing with other prototype railroad modelers. And a fine time was had by all. Learned a little about improving my airbrushing techniques. 😁 Craig, lots of work prepping the house. Local chore is blowing the leaves off the driveway. Threats of snow with that crud underneath should be avoided. Driveway will be as slick as owl poop with leaves and snow on it. 😧
-
Yep, lads, that is what they are. They help to lift the stack gases up over the top of the loco. Keeps the smoke out of the crews eyes, at speed. Some roads here in the US used them, too.
-
The side rods connect the drivers to the main drive wheel, which is the one driver the main rod( E13) connects to, via the main crank pin (F42). The valve gear is the linkage above the main rod, what was in your step 19. It adjusts the steam admitted to the cylinders to generate tractive effort. I'm away from my steam cyclopedia, so I can't fill in a lot about the stuff you're working on. Like the paint scheme. I have a BH-50, I think, but it's in HO scale and uses the black and red scheme.
-
Fascinating build, Elroy. I'll follow along, too.
-
How are you making out acquiring the air group? I see Free Time, over here north of Atlanta Georgia, has some sets, but I'll bet the shipping would be a deal-breaker.
-
They do like to encase their parts in clear wrap. Nice quick fix, too. Will be following along.
- 52 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- artesania latina
- titanic
- (and 1 more)
-
Enzo Ferrari by CDW - Tamiya - 1:12 Scale - PLASTIC
Canute replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
WOW, looks like the stuff the bodies of many race cars are made from.
Our Emblem ®
