Canute
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Everything posted by Canute
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I think they apply them to the foil to allow you to make the flags ripple in the wind. Probably need a flexible paint, like the stuff the RC guys use, since you want the paint to stay applied. I'd use a light gray color as a base, especially under red or yellow colors. -
wefalck, it's a free signup. I believe they only want to make sure it's not a robo-site logging in. The booklet is well worth it.
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Sounds like the placement for ejection seat handles in fighters. Over your head, on the sides of the seat or between your legs. My preference was the overhead handles since it pulled a restraint out and over the top of your helmet and forced you to keep your arms pulled in tight to your body. Luckily, I only used it in simulations. Safety has to be a habit.
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Denis, sounds like my gyrations trying to plumb the brake rigging on assorted HO scale railroad cars. Many holes are too small for the locator pins or assorted rods and piping. I end up reaming out or going to larger drills to assist the fit. I'll get some pictures later today to show you. I use fine plastic rodding and similar brass/phosphor bronze wires. Getting the tubing over plugs and distributor heads is frustrating; we need a mandrel to spread the tube end.
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Straightening thin brass wire
Canute replied to vossy's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Another source for brass wire is a company called Detail Associates. They make a number of sizes or brass wire. Another one is Tichy Train Group. They make phosphor bronze wire in small sizes. The pb wire is a little stiffer than the brass. Check hobby shops with model railroad parts. -
Harbor barge hull planking
Canute replied to Canute's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Kurt and Patrick, thank you. I planned to have the bow planks overlap the side planks. Your info validates my plan. The kit is more into the pile driver appearance versus a built up hull. -
Greg, did you have issues getting the torpedo net drilling template to lay out on the hull? I plan to cut it out of the instruction sheet and tape it onto the hull. Glad I have that little Ryobi drill and chuck for all the holes. The drill turns slow enough that I had no issues with plastic gumming up the drill flutes.
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A question about the hull planking of harbor barges. They are basically rectangular, slab sided vessels with some sloping of the bow (?) and stern areas from the deck to the waterline and down to a keel. Would the planking across the slanting bow/stern areas overlap the boards of the sides or would they be interleaved? The 2" x 6" scale boards (planking) are glued onto a plywood former. I ask as I have an old Sheepscot Scale Products kit of a pile driver on a barge. Pictures are too small or grainy, even with extra light and using my Optivisor, to tell what the configuration is. Just gathering info for a future build.
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Gee whiz Denis, that would be a good menu. Get some army surplus C rats for a real gourmet treat - NOT!. Might try warming up your paint bombs in a warm water bath. I've read of guys doing that.
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Stainless photoetch? If so, gotta be real careful with those bends. Engine looks great.
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I was in a flight of Phantoms, years ago. doing something pretty similar during hunting season in central Pennsylvania. We were in a low fly area and crested a ridge at very low altitude, spooking some whitetails away from some poor guy who'd probably spent all morning maneuvering to get a shot. As we rounded into a turn I glanced back and saw he wasn't exactly waving goodbye. I could see a bright orange jump suit in the tree line.
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Here's another website with a short article about making homemade acrylic thinner: https://www.cybermodeler.com/tips/thinner.shtml He has a longer blurb here about painting aircraft, but since we seem to have merged builds of plastic ships many techniques will work for us, too. He also addresses airbrushes in the article. The link: https://www.cybermodeler.com/tips/painting.shtml
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Mark, thanks for the pinning. Lou and LH, thanks for reading and adding techniques. I hope we continue to build on this. I want to dig up additional info on using some of the other acrylics, such as Tamiya and Lifecolor.
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A lot of us are using acrylic paints in our modeling. I felt we needed a central location where our various tips and techniques could go, instead of being buried in one of our build logs. One area I see time and again is the proper thinning for airbrushing. Coming from a model railroad and aircraft background, I've seen a few different ways to deal with this. I can't reproduce this pamphlet on our site, but you can get it here. It doesn't cost you anything to log onto the site, but you do need to log in. Sorry about that. https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/subscribers-only/painting/acrylics The whole pamphlet is excellent, but chapters 3 Mixing and Storage & 4 Formulas for Thinners apply here. They address Modelmaster, Badger and Vallejo paints. Like a lot of hobbyists, model railroaders were put out by Testor's when they dropped the Floquil/PollyScale lines. This pamphlet was done to help folks move into acrylics. And many have adopted the Badger and Vallejo paints. Hence the extensive charts for converting the old paints into these newer acrylics. I'd like to see more on the Tamiya paint, since the big box craft stores seem to stock them around here. I've been on another site that also addresses home made thinners, but parts of that site are undergoing renovation and I can't find the appropriate page to link to. More to come. And please add to these tips and techniques.
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Use this link. It doesn't cost you anything to log onto the site, but you do need to log in. Sorry about that. https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/subscribers-only/painting/acrylics The whole pamphlet is excellent, but chapters 3 Mixing and Storage & 4 Formulas for thinners apply here. They address Modelmaster, Badger and Vallejo paints. Like a lot of hobbyists, model railroaders were put out by Testor's when they dropped the Floquil/PollyScale lines. This was done to help folks move into acrylics. And many have adopted the Badger and Vallejo paints. Hence the extensive charts for converting the old paints into these newer acrylics. I'd like to see more on the Tamiya paint, since the big box craft stores seem to stock them around here. Maybe we should put the link in a pinned area in the Paint section. I've been on another site that also addresses home made thinners, but parts of that site are undergoing renovation and I can't find the appropriate page to link to.
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Most acrylics seem to prefer their proprietary thinners. I'd be hesitant to use tap water to thin the acrylics; no telling what chemicals are in there. Buy some distilled water if you want to use water. Don't waste the proprietary thinners on cleaning brushes or airbrushes. I've put out some formulas for home made brews for cleaners, since you will use more cleaner than thinner.
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I wish I still had my 1:1 scale '68 Dodge Charger in dark metallic blue.
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Don't forget the funnel was painted while at sea, so the red looks good. The lino decks, maybe a skosh lighter. Is that the Tamiya paint, Greg?
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Denis, I can't remember the engine color. I'm guessing orange, but I could be all wet on that. And you're brave to even suggest that getting older. Maybe if you say she's aging like a fine wine? Hope she's feeling better; tooth extractions are never less than painful.
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I thought they might be junctions for yardarms or antennas. The detailing you are adding looks very good.
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What's with the masts, Jack? They have a "cranked" look. 🤔
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The MOPAR engines did come from Keith Black, guys. Had a 383 in my '68 Dodge Charger.
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