Canute
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Everything posted by Canute
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Western NC was a balmy 50F or so, with rain showers. Sawdust is good, too. Glues are usually easier to work with especially not using much photo etch. But, it's all fun! Nice shell hole in that last photo there. The deploying/furling of these nets must have been a real drill. I can't imagine trying to move the ship with those deployed, but I guess they did it. -
And I even looked it up, Jack! Badly trained fingers. Yes, bending PE will be a new skill. All my previous work was simple bends.This will be a big step up.
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Denis, I do. Just waited for the "bling" to show up. Now the fun begins. Making holes in the hull for various and sundry purposes. Hobbyboss didn't get every nuance of this battlecruiser. Some will be up to our interpretation of available photos. Greg has been a hero digging up shots. Art, Carl enjoys spreading his "talents" around, whether it's an Aussie or a Yank. We're all targets. You could join Jack12377 with a build of a Fletcher class DD. Or try a sub. The boat is usually pretty basic, but you will learn some new painting skills.
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Lou, I know.We're in touch. He's further along with his hull. I'm deciding how I'll display the ship. Probably pedestals, but....
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Just in from Free Time Hobbies in Blue Ridge, GA. A nice sized box chock full of brass, resin, wood and, I think, stainless steel. There are 9 bags of turned brass parts. Two are Seydlitz specific masting and yards. Seven bags contain the various gun barrels, booms hose reels and derricks. There is one resin bag with the blast bags for the 280 mm cannon. There are 6 brass photo etch frets: A- railings, companionways, ladders and ringoles(?), B-davits, boat chocks, daylights, C- railings, stack trim, derricks, D-anti-torpedo booms, E- ships boats, F anchor gear and coaling hatches/scuttles. Anchor chain and 2 pieces of 0.15 mm brass wire are also included. I believe the wire is for rigging the helm signals attached to the main mast. There is a very thin wood deck set. Four double sided pages of instructions, along with a parts breakout of all the bagged parts and drilling patterns for the torpedo net mounting holes. There is also a drilling guide to attach some boat booms towards the stern. Good sized box, about 15 inches long Brass barrels, hose reels and mast parts anti torpedo boom rigging and shelving for the nets Instruction sheet, 1 of 4 bagged parts and drilling diagram torpedo nets and more ringoles You will need some 40 dernier black lycra thread (Infini part IR 0401B super fine black) Not included in this package, but called out in the instruction sheets. Below is the wood sheets and anchor chain, along with a slightly better view of the stainless netting.
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Optivisors, stronger reading glasses and more light will do the trick. The newer LEDs put out more lumens. And I'd get the ones in the sunlight temperature range for painting purposes.
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Lou, just jump in and work with it. The first one might be a tad iffy, but #2 will be better and so on. Go for it. The beauty of this board is everybody helps.
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The Allied a/c were "sturdy", with some armor, etc. The Zero had no protection, so it was much more nimble. Like Chris and Lou have said, they were at the far end of a supply chain and lacked the knowledge gleaned by Chennault on fighting the Zero. Took us until Coral Sea & Midway to figure out how to counter the Zeroes.
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Check out the Luft '46 stuff. Why do you think the Allies grabbed up as much German stuff as they could right after WW II. There is a Ho229 in the workshops of the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum. Along with a Heinkel He 219 Uhu or Owl. That was the German purpose built night fighter. Earlier stuff was cobbled from existing light/medium bombers. The US equivalent was the Northrop P-61. They were big to haul around the airborne intercept radar sets of the day. We eventually reduced that "distinctive" black trail by redesigning the engine combustor cans to make burning the jet fuel way more complete. Didn't help the mileage any, but it removed the exhaust trail. Only took GE, engine makers, 20 years to redesign the cans and another 10 for the Air Force to alter the contracts to buy the upgrade.
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I definitely like making a storage spot for the Allen key. I wasted a bit of time finding the appropriate sized chuck keys for those tools requiring same until I started tying each chuck key to the tool.
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I've only built one a/c in 1/32 scale - a Hasegawa (?) FW190A series, while in training. Ended up giving it to a simulator instructor I was friendly with during said training, when I left for my F-4 checkout. Craig, that Shinden will be a spectacular model. Z-M is the Rolls-Royce of aircraft models.👍
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The colors in your outdoor shots look good, Jack. Like Carl says, our colors could stand with some scale fade. I've read on some of the aircraft modeling sites of some fading formulas based on the scale. Here's one website on this subject: https://www.cybermodeler.com/color/scale_effect.shtml He does mention fading our 1/350 ship colors about 30% with white paint. Keeps the colors from being too stark. I feel our ship paint colors are formulated against 1:1 paint chips, so they are darker than we want. Of course, your eyes may say something else.
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We are our own worst critics, a wise man once said here. Your work is superb; gives the rest of us a outstanding benchmark. Work on.
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Work with the doctors/nutritionists and get foods(not necessarily specifically for diabetics) that don't cause the sugar issues. I worked for a while as an Emergency Medical Technician and diabetic episodes were nearly as common as heart issues. Diet and exercise, OC.
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Like Lou and Mark say, it begins in some stores around Halloween and goes on till Christmas. Radio stations switch formats and play only holiday songs. Print media runs tons of ads. Every store and website you ever bought from sends ads. I love Christmas, but the over commercialization is ridiculous. So, I'll wait for Craig to find Mikasa in January.
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Danny, what's the scale? The Treadheads have a slew of aftermarket goodies. Maybe you'll find something for those treads.
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Trucolor is acetone based, so work appropriately. Mask up. They do have an extensive color range. They have USN and IJN colors so far; looks like they will add an RN range also. Rick, do you prime the model? And what masking tape do you recommend. Nice QM2
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Very nice work on your display, Alan. Great recoveries. And congrats for your birthday and wedding anniversary.
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- 9 pound naval cannon
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How aare you blending them? melting or manual stirring?
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For a good read on that battle, pick up "Last Stand of the Tin Can Sailors" by James D Hornfischer. He's also done a few other books.
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Sign me on for your build, Jack. Mmm, fresh popcorn. I'm with Lou on USS Johnston and Taffy 3. A heroic fight.
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