ccoyle

Looks fabulous -- congratulations!

Exactly! I have seen many beautiful models with their metal work left bright. And if a modeler is going to make a fuss over finishing metal, then to be consistent he/she ought to fuss over accurately painted wood as well; so long, great-looking bare woodwork! To each their own.

One of my dad's former students was stationed aboard USS Aspro (SSN-648), a Sturgeon-class boat.

Kevin, I have actually used the technique you described on several small models, keyword = small. The reason you don't get the dome-shape on the first application is because wood glue is water-based. The surface skins over first, and as additional moisture leaves, the structure contracts, which is why you found it necessary to apply multiple dabs. It takes a very steady hand to get the dollops of glue uniformly sized and spaced, which is partly why I have only ever used it on small projects. Something like 4000 bolt heads? Eh, no thanks!

Okay, here is a little update. First of all, I just came off a two week spell of having essentially zero energy for modeling. First I had a routine outpatient procedure done, after which I immediately came down with COVID-19. Now despite having previously joked that in the event of COVID I would just enjoy time off work and build models for two weeks, the truth is that all I felt like doing was laying around and watching TV. On a positive note, I also lost most of my appetite and shed 10 pounds -- yay!! Overall my symptoms were mild, but I was hit hard by low energy and chest congestion, which made me feel constantly winded. So, all I managed to get done during this time was finish the wing, vertical stabilizer, and rudder for Spanish Nationalist. This is not the best wing I have ever done, partly due to the wing having so many skin sections, resulting in a finished wing with 14 longitudinal seams, eight in the small middle section alone. Seams are always a booger to do well and always seem to be visible, no matter how much care is used in the attempt. So 14 of them is a bit of a problem. This visual hiccup is something I have noticed in other finished builds of this particular kit, even though they were otherwise very good. For comparison, each wing skin on my aborted Curtiss Hawk build was a single piece, one left and one right, with no longitudinal seams. It makes a big difference. BTW, part of this sequence was accomplished with the mysterious new klej (glue) I ordered from Poland. On a hunch, I tried it out on some scrap card stock and confirmed my suspicion that yep, it is just contact cement, albeit in a tube rather than in a bottle as we are accustomed to seeing it in this country. When used in the proper manner for contact cement, it works quite well, but it's not the "Miracle Card Modeling Glue" some of us had hoped for. As an addendum to this update, I'll note that having a respiratory infection like COVID and working around very fine epoxy resin dust are probably not the best combination of activities, so needless to say I didn't get any work done on the Sassafras 12 over the last two weeks, either, so an update on that project will be delayed. Cheers!

Beautiful result!

Congratulations on achieving this milestone!

Oh, a statement like that opens up so, so many possibilities for devilish comebacks -- but I won't derail Jep's build log. 🤨

Wow, great photo, Harvey! My grandpa was a pipefitter in the Vancouver yards during the war, and my mom was born there.

Welcome, Ron! Nice work so far. I don't think that we have ever had a kit from this company featured here before. Cheers!

That is a good question, which sadly I cannot answer. I use Guetterman quilting thread, but there is no indication on the spool regarding weight or diameter.

Hi, Jan. The main disadvantage of any thread is its fuzziness -- the more fuzz the thread has, the more uneven its final appearance will be once glued and painted. So the secret is to start with the least-fuzzy thread possible. I have found quilting thread ideal in this regard.

Thanks, Kevin. I am making slow progress on this project despite the lack of updates -- just waiting to complete some stuff before posting pics.

Hello! I have mentioned Paper Shipwright (https://www.papershipwright.co.uk/) in other content strands, so I considered it appropriate to do a review. This will be slightly different than a normal review in which a single kit is examined. Because of designer David Hathaway's consistent design philosophy, what is written about one of his kits is generally applicable to all of them. So we will look at two of them for this review: the ferry TSS Earnslaw and the Russian turret monitor Smerch. First, a couple of words about Paper Shipwright in general. David has been designing kits for as long as I have known about card models, which means that he is now in at least his third decade of doing business. His kits are done in 1/250 scale, waterline only, lean towards somewhat small and obscure subjects, and are typically moderately difficult, with good levels of detail and relatively small parts counts. His catalog contains both civilian types and warships with diversity enough such that just about anyone should find at least one subject they consider tempting enough to try. I recommend that those who are sufficiently intrigued should have at least some experience with working in card; our V108 tutorial is an excellent introduction to the basic skills and techniques for working in this medium. Each Paper Shipwright kit is self-published by David and is a high-quality laser print on good-quality paper. The cover typically has full-color plan and profile views of the kit subject. The instructions are minimal due to low parts counts, often consisting of a single sheet, but they are adequate for completing the model. A parts list is included, along with instructions for making thread railings (more on the railings later). Good diagrams are essential for card modeling, especially when the builder doesn't speak the publisher's language. Happily, this isn't an issue with Paper Shipwright for us English-speakers, but non-English-speakers should also find the diagrams clear and thorough. The printing on Paper Shipwrights kits is sharp and reasonably detailed. There is no printed weathering, but naturally that shouldn't impede anyone who wishes to attempt weathering with non-water-based media such as weathering chalk. As for the laser printing, I have never had any issues with the ink cracking or flaking. Because David designs in 1/250, that means that the simplified elements in each kit, e.g. ladders and railings, can be replaced by readily available laser-cut or PE after-market detail parts if the modeler wishes. As you can see, David uses interlocking profile and bulkhead formers, a design technique we card modelers refer to as an "egg crate hull." This is a technique that does not require major hull structural components to be laminated onto thicker card; kits from Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag (HMV), which are in most cases larger, more detailed, and more expensive than a comparable Paper Shipwright kit, are also built in this fashion. Some detail parts may be doubled, and each kit typically includes parts to double things like doors and skylights to give the model an extra bit of three-dimensional depth. In the image below, parts to be doubled are printed on rectangles meant to be scored down the midline, folded, and glued, creating parts that are twice the original thickness of the cardstock. Reverse-side printing is included, where necessary. A unique feature in Paper Shipwright kits is the inclusion of a template for making optional thread railings. The template is glued to a stiff piece of cardboard, then thread is wrapped onto the template to create rails and stanchions; afterwards these are stiffened with glue, then painted. The template is unique to each kit, because of course each subject has a unique railing configuration. The finished railings can be very convincing. David also offers a free, downloadable generic template at his website. A printed nameplate is included with each kit. A Paper Shipwright model, thanks to its size, does not entail a lot of time investment. I have built one in as little as two weeks, which is a blistering pace for me. The finished models are small jewels. Another great thing about Paper Shipwright kits is that they are inexpensive, costing anywhere from £4.50 to £15.00. At that price you can buy several kits, booger one of them, and not be greatly troubled by it (ask me how I know). These are charming little kits, very well designed, and the finished products are worthy of a spot or two (or more) on any card modeler's shelf -- also a great step up from relatively simple models like V108. Get one or two of these under your belt, and you'll be well-prepared prior to tackling something larger and more complex. Highly recommended! CDC

Since this isn't an actual kit review, I have moved the discussion to the general wooden kits area.

Remember, there's two inner bulwark planks. These go a long way towards hiding glue oopsies.

I'm assuming that this is the start of a build log, so I moved it for you.

Okay, I just finished applying epoxy coat #3. Yes, I know that this picture of the third coat of epoxy looks exactly like the picture of the second coat of epoxy (Is it indeed a new picture? Or is he just saying it's a new picture? You can never be certain, can you? 😋 ). The difference is that this coat should be substantially smoother once it dries. Hopefully. After this coat dries, I will need to touch up a few low spots in the seams and some wire holes that didn't quite magically fill in as the instructions suggested they would. Then it's on to finishing the interior.

Well, Mr. Pitt and I are the same age, both of us being in our silver-back years, so to speak. He, of course, has movie-star good looks because, well, he's a movie star, obviously. As for me, no mothers have shrieked upon seeing my visage and hurried away in the opposite direction while covering their child's eyes, so I'll content myself with that. 😎

Great work, GB! These smallcraft are very fetching.

The false frames are small, but not delicate. I can't recall snapping any off once they were glued in.

Have never done the tsunami warning thing, but I have done tornado warnings and wildfire evacuations. And earthquakes -- except those don't typically come with warnings! BTW, the model is looking great! The QE class were, IMO, among the best-looking BB designs to come out of the Great War, if not the best.

I simply can't believe how much progress I missed after not checking in for a couple of weeks! A wonderful project you have going there.

I don't wish to speak ill of the company, because they are a site sponsor (for which I'm grateful), and I am otherwise satisfied with the product so far. But, ya know -- c'mon, people! 😉

Quick update: Once I realized that I still had a coat of epoxy to do, both inside and out, I became alarmed at my dwindling supplies of resin and hardener. Interestingly, when I contacted CLC, they told me that approximately 1/3 of the builders for this kit would have epoxy left over, 1/3 would have "just enough," and 1/3 would run short. Now pardon me for being naive, but I'm thinking that if a company knows that 1/3 of its customers are going to run short of a material needed to complete a kit, then that means the company isn't including enough of that material in the kit to begin with! But apparently not. I couldn't convince the company to comp me an extra bit of resin and hardener, but they did agree to send some to me sans shipping charge. I haven't gotten any sanding done since last weekend because the admiral decided to clean a large area rug in the garage, and it was suggested that very fine epoxy dust and rug cleaning were not compatible. 🤔 This weekend I will have the garage to myself again.