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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. First step in making the wings was adding the remaining internal frames. Each skin is a single piece, shaped, folded, and glued with the help of a joiner strip. Each wing structure is then slipped into its finished sheath. No fillets have been added yet. That's it for now.
  2. A bit more progress. I needed to take a slight detour and make the rudder so that I could confirm the positioning of the vertical stabilizer skin. Unlike many kits, the rudder has no internal framing. And then the vertical stabilizer was skinned. And that's it for the moment. Next up will be the wings' internal framing, but first I need to take a break and watch the Champions League final (I'm strictly a neutral for this match).
  3. Good luck on this project! I built the 1/100 scale Agassiz from Modelik many years ago. I also have the HMV kit of USS England on pause; it's another product of Agassiz's designer, Darius Lipinski. He has a few 3D-printed parts available for Agassiz at his Shapeways store. https://www.shapeways.com/product/AWDN9DUAN/agassiz-js-0005-upgrade-for-paper-model?optionId=62825248&li=marketplace
  4. Nope. My kit is already boogered, and I have no great desire to take a second crack at one.
  5. Coincidentally, the streets in my neighborhood got sealed today -- wife says they got the work done before the afternoon showers started. I'll have to see how it looks when I get home.
  6. Yup. I like it, obviously -- great for more than just canopies.
  7. That's a pretty long list of modifications, considering you'd be starting with a mediocre plastic kit in the first place. A complete scratch build might be easier.
  8. Here's the patched-up seam. I first filled it without about three passes of canopy glue, then applied a thin wash of appropriate edge color, followed by a shot of matte clear spray to take the shine off the filler. It doesn't look too bad -- certainly not the Polish Touch, but better than the untreated gap looked. Naturally, bright lighting and closeup photography makes it look worse than it does at normal viewing distances and lighting. And here's the rest of the spine.
  9. Yep, they are all card. They are part of the laser-cut frames set, cut from what the Poles call "beer mat" stock -- it is the same stuff used commercially to make disposable coasters. On to skinning the spine. The kit includes joiner strips, which is nice -- I would have made them myself but the kit spared me the effort. I glued the first four pieces together using their joiner strips, then glued the entire piece first along one side . . . . . . and then along the other. The color registration is good. I got a bit of a seam gap on the other side, which I'm going to try to remediate. We'll see how that goes.
  10. No finished ones here, but there are plenty of finished gun brigs from that time period for more general reference.
  11. Thin CA is pretty darn thin and will make a horrible mess in a hurry if you're not careful with it -- I shudder to think about what "ultra-thin" must be like. 😳
  12. I was going to mention the 1:250 card model published by Paper Shipwright and still available from them as either a printed kit or free download.
  13. Framing for dorsal hump and vertical stabilizer has been added -- calling it a night. Not all of the transverse bulkheads come up to the height of the dorsal profile piece; I'm not sure what the deal is there, but I'll find out once I start adding the skins.
  14. Not uncommon for card planes, the fuselage consists of a number of conic sections.
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