ccoyle

Hi

This kit was chosen as a first attempt at paint chipping to simulate a weathered vehicle. The Roden JS-3 kit has markings for the Egyptian army in 1956 so I thought by then the JS-3 would be well past the "One Careful Owner, Only Driven to Church Each Week" stage by then 

Unfortunately the JS-3 is not one of Rodens better kits; it also has the rubber band style tracks which I don't like.
Somehow I seem to have lost the photos of the early stages of the build and the contents of the box. Nothing terribly outstanding in the build so far although I swear some of the road wheels are oval rather than round. Hopefully paint and weathering will obscure that a bit. The tracks are very thin, they look underscale and they are buckled and refuse to straighten . They may look better once the hull is completed.
So; the main object of the exercise was the chipping. Once the upper hull and turret were complete they got the usual dose of black primer. I then added Vallejo dark steel in places where I wanted it to be seen and mid grey in other areas. Once that was dry I gave the model a coat of cheap hairspray and left it to dry again before adding the sand top coat.
My reading suggests that working over an area with a wet paint brush will cause the top coat of paint to lift away in pieces. That didn't seem to happen but moving to a stiff brush was more effective.

 

 

I also used a pin tip to scratch through for detailed areas. I seem to have achieved a worn look but I don't think I would catagorise it as chipping exactly although working small areas over with a pin tip first produced a better result.

 

 

Its starting to look suitably tatty but I would like to improve my technique. Online sources say that it can only be done with acrylics, can't be done with acrylics or must have a clear coat to seal the paints under the hair spray. I would welcome insights from the experts.
In the meantime I painted the nasty tracks. They lack detail and thickness. I hope to hide the track join with some artfully placed debris

 

 
Thanks in advance for any advice. its all welcome. 
 
Alan
 

The last boat was added and then the PE rails started. I cut the runs into shorter sections and then attached them using Gators Grip glue. I give it glue a few minutes to tack up a bit before putting the railings into place. I have found this way makes the railings a much less frustrating experience. However, I found my lousy planning skills let me down again. Early on in the build I found one of the railing sections was breaking away from the fret and knowing if i left it it would end up damaged, I decided to cut it completely free and keep it out of harm's way. And i forgot all about it when painting came around so its sat there in its native brass colour. I don't feel like loading teh airbrush up with primer and then grey for one strip of railing so it will sit in abeyance until I start the next kit and hopefully, I will remember to paint it then. In the meantime I added the booms and the decals as well as a wash to the funnel. I'll do the weathering once the last railings are in place and the touching up is complete.

 

 

 

 
Thanks for looking in
Alan

Post Sixty-five
 
A question of colour.
The time is approaching where I need to decide whether I am going to use the printed decoration on the Upper and lower counters, so kindly modified for me by Chuck.

2235(5)
The patterns were scaled to size, printed on best setting, and sealed with Artists fixative.
The ground to the printed pieces  is a pastel shade of Turquoise with elements of Blue/green.
 
 
I need to produce a paint mix that is a good match to the printed elements, and to this end I am using Vallejo acrylic paints.

2236
After a some time of trial and error I finally produced a mix that will I hope suffice.

2248(2)
The mix contains 1:1 ratio of Prussian Blue and Tan Yellow with added drops of White and Pastel Blue. Sufficient has been produced to hopefully complete the model.

2253
The only point of contact between paper and paint will be the Quarter Gallery Berthing pieces, and these have been given a preliminary coat for test purposes.

2254
Always difficult trying to represent colours on photo’s, and my eye has to be the final arbiter on the actual model.
I think I can work with this and tweak the shade as necessary.
 
One other minor paint job completed, that of the ‘brick’ base on which the stove sits.

2261
This was painted with Vallejo Hull red ( which looks brown) over-washed with a red ochre, and finished with a dry brush using Vallejo Light slate grey weathering powder.
I thought this would provide a nice contrast to the ‘iron’ stove.
 
I think it is now time to attend to the rudder and  progress the stern completion.
 
B.E.
17/01/22
 
 

Thanks OC, yeah I'm feeling better now... and I was hoping this was going to be an easy reconstruction... but now I have the Italieri Frame together my heart sunk... Italieri got it WRONG!!!
Yep they screwed it up...
Here is a pic of the two frames side by side...

The Revell Frame has it's top bars just fitted the Italeri Frame is glued... They do look nice what's the difference between the two... The direction of the diagonals on the top framing... the revell goes one way the italieri the other way... both have the locating holes for the driveshaft up as they should be.... So which one is correct and which is wrong...
 
H13-D...

The diagonals go from left to right, front to back...
 
H-13H...

Left to right front to back... they didn't change the design between models, so the italeri kit has the upper boom diagonals backwards....

Now it's not really a problem I can gently break each connection flip it over and go thru the gluing process once more... then drill new driveshaft positioning holes...
One more reminder to always check your sources... It's not a mistake on my part... in some ways I wish it was, it is a mistake on the kit manufacturers part...
 
But the experience with gluing .050 plastic rod is giving me second thoughts about building a new boom for the revell kit... there are other differences between the kits actually present on the real aircraft.... the boom is slightly narrower, the spacings are a bit different, the entire main frame is a different design which doesn't match very well with the "D" model boom...
 
I think with the experience of gluing the Italieri frame together (and now having to do it a second time) I don't think I want to do an entire aircraft airframe one piece at a time in .050 rod.... I'm down for a challenge but that is a bit much of a challenge... (I didn't want to take two months to build these things) so I'm probably going to just do them out of the box... I mean I'm also looking at the pic of the two frames side by side, how much am I going to gain by all that work?
 
Not a whole lot if you ask me... Obvious configuration errors in the kit I'll fix, but rebuilding a whole frame? not so sure....
 
Any advice or opinions? are you guys seeing what I'm seeing that the difference in presentation really isn't that much?
 

Thanks Kev, how the hell did you guess?
 
With the possibility of printed parts I finally saw the chance to mass-produce the window crosses in a neat ship shape fashion. To get the vertical alignment of the window panes, I had the idea to link opposite windows over a wooden rod. Therefore I constructed a window frame with an adapter behind it, so that you can pull out the stick trough one side and cover the hole with the square window pane in front.
 

 
Inside it looks like this ...
 

 
... and outside like that 🙂
 

 
Rods pulled out, gaps of the frame filled and trimmed, it looks good for now.
 

 
Instead of the polysterol sheet I used 300 gram paper cut in single planks. That could look like this.
 

 
You can also see that the window crosses are difficult to paint. The window panes are also still intransparent black.
 
But above all, the windows are difficult to align at an horizontal angle.
 
Therefore a new system. Window frame with cross on a "carriage" that stands on the deck and thus guarantees height and angle. The window pane can then be added from behind and be secured by a small frame.
 

 
Since these windows were square, and the decorative strip had to sit exactly at the top and bottom of the window, I put a piece of round rod in to align the decorative moulding.
 

 
And it looks very cute 🙂
 

 

 
XXXDAn

@Wintergreen
@jdbondy
@mtaylor
 
Hello,
thank you for your interest and the nice comments and also thank you to the others, also for the many LIKES.
 
Here I continue with my report:
Ratlines for the topmast shrouds - Enflechures
Long enough I shied away from attaching the ratlines to the topmast shrouds, also aware that this requires extremely sensitive precision work. 
The ratlines for the topmast shrouds of the La Créole had a smaller diameter than those of the lower shrouds, so these have ø 0.25 mm in model scale. Some time ago I made a successful attempt to attach these thin ratlines to the outer shrouds by means of eyes. The formation of the corresponding eyes was done by a simple splice or fake splice.
I also reported that for this difficult work in the rigging an adapted working height is very advantageous. Accordingly, I got myself a scissor lift in order to obtain the optimum working height steplessly.
Who doesn't know the strain of maintaining a steady hand when doing detailed work in the rigging. A flexible support option close to the position to be worked on would certainly be a great help. With this in mind, briefly searched for suitable material for implementation and set to work. 
In addition, besides the storage facility for rigging tools etc., appropriate lighting was also installed, which brings even more advantages for working in the rigging.
In retrospect, I am very glad to have built this simple auxiliary device. It facilitates this work immensely. It is easy to adapt to new situations.

 
Now back to the actual topic, the ratlines of the topmast shrouds. I started with the mizzen topmast to see if it is at all feasible in the intended form. The further up you go in the direction of the crosstrees, the smaller the distance between the shrouds, which ultimately means less and less space for the simple splice. In the end, I achieved it. In this respect, the way is now clear for the remaining ratlines.

 

  
The last picture should give an impression of the different thicknesses of the ratlines. 

 
See you soon ...
 

Continuation:  War pennant (flamme de guerre)
I continued with the making of the flags and the long pennant for the La Créole. 
  
  
The following picture thus shows the finished flags and the flamme de guerre with indication of the original sizes.

   
In the next two pictures, the war pennant can be seen again on the model, especially the detail on the flag button with the flag line sheared through and the pennant wood. 

 

 
I provisionally sheared the flag line of the large flag at the gaff through the iron single block at the nock.For the detail to attach the flag line to the eye of the boltrope, I used a toggle as in the original. 

Source: Wictionary
 

 
However, the final assembly of the flags and the long pennant will be done just before the model is completed, as this fine silk fabric is not very durable.
So until then, off it goes into the "evidence room" with the other "suspects" until the final installation.
 
 
To be continued ...

PS: Macro shots are merciless ...
 

Following first ten rebates about low gun-ports range :
 

 

 

Cant believe that  Tyres  made from card.....
 
OC.

Wheels (I lost track of what chapter this is.)
 
The main gear wheels are each made of five laminated discs. The outer discs were dunked in shellac to prepare them for rough handling and sanding. Here's the laminated wheels.

 
And here they are after final shaping, painting, and having their hubs added. That darn paint has a tendency to pick up all kinds of dust.

 
And here she sits on her new shoes, including tail wheel.

 
Still bits to add, but since each won't individually make a huge visual impact, I think this will be the last update until The Big Reveal. Cheers!

Chris, don't worry about dust on the tires.  Makes the tires look used.
 
 

Looks great so far, Chris!
 
Note: we had to dig out (partially) from about two to three feet of the white stuff. No workshop time at all today!

Wheels (I lost track of what chapter this is.)
 
The main gear wheels are each made of five laminated discs. The outer discs were dunked in shellac to prepare them for rough handling and sanding. Here's the laminated wheels.

 
And here they are after final shaping, painting, and having their hubs added. That darn paint has a tendency to pick up all kinds of dust.

 
And here she sits on her new shoes, including tail wheel.

 
Still bits to add, but since each won't individually make a huge visual impact, I think this will be the last update until The Big Reveal. Cheers!

Wheels (I lost track of what chapter this is.)
 
The main gear wheels are each made of five laminated discs. The outer discs were dunked in shellac to prepare them for rough handling and sanding. Here's the laminated wheels.

 
And here they are after final shaping, painting, and having their hubs added. That darn paint has a tendency to pick up all kinds of dust.

 
And here she sits on her new shoes, including tail wheel.

 
Still bits to add, but since each won't individually make a huge visual impact, I think this will be the last update until The Big Reveal. Cheers!

Wheels (I lost track of what chapter this is.)
 
The main gear wheels are each made of five laminated discs. The outer discs were dunked in shellac to prepare them for rough handling and sanding. Here's the laminated wheels.

 
And here they are after final shaping, painting, and having their hubs added. That darn paint has a tendency to pick up all kinds of dust.

 
And here she sits on her new shoes, including tail wheel.

 
Still bits to add, but since each won't individually make a huge visual impact, I think this will be the last update until The Big Reveal. Cheers!

We got maybe three inches of snow. That's enough to get the locals excited and paralyze commerce, but it's less than what we were accustomed to in California and substantially less than the 8-12" in the initial forecasts.
 
I have titled this photo "The Wrath of Izzy."

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.
 

Wheels (I lost track of what chapter this is.)
 
The main gear wheels are each made of five laminated discs. The outer discs were dunked in shellac to prepare them for rough handling and sanding. Here's the laminated wheels.

 
And here they are after final shaping, painting, and having their hubs added. That darn paint has a tendency to pick up all kinds of dust.

 
And here she sits on her new shoes, including tail wheel.

 
Still bits to add, but since each won't individually make a huge visual impact, I think this will be the last update until The Big Reveal. Cheers!

We got maybe three inches of snow. That's enough to get the locals excited and paralyze commerce, but it's less than what we were accustomed to in California and substantially less than the 8-12" in the initial forecasts.
 
I have titled this photo "The Wrath of Izzy."

Wheels (I lost track of what chapter this is.)
 
The main gear wheels are each made of five laminated discs. The outer discs were dunked in shellac to prepare them for rough handling and sanding. Here's the laminated wheels.

 
And here they are after final shaping, painting, and having their hubs added. That darn paint has a tendency to pick up all kinds of dust.

 
And here she sits on her new shoes, including tail wheel.

 
Still bits to add, but since each won't individually make a huge visual impact, I think this will be the last update until The Big Reveal. Cheers!

Wheels (I lost track of what chapter this is.)
 
The main gear wheels are each made of five laminated discs. The outer discs were dunked in shellac to prepare them for rough handling and sanding. Here's the laminated wheels.

 
And here they are after final shaping, painting, and having their hubs added. That darn paint has a tendency to pick up all kinds of dust.

 
And here she sits on her new shoes, including tail wheel.

 
Still bits to add, but since each won't individually make a huge visual impact, I think this will be the last update until The Big Reveal. Cheers!

We got maybe three inches of snow. That's enough to get the locals excited and paralyze commerce, but it's less than what we were accustomed to in California and substantially less than the 8-12" in the initial forecasts.
 
I have titled this photo "The Wrath of Izzy."

Wheels (I lost track of what chapter this is.)
 
The main gear wheels are each made of five laminated discs. The outer discs were dunked in shellac to prepare them for rough handling and sanding. Here's the laminated wheels.

 
And here they are after final shaping, painting, and having their hubs added. That darn paint has a tendency to pick up all kinds of dust.

 
And here she sits on her new shoes, including tail wheel.

 
Still bits to add, but since each won't individually make a huge visual impact, I think this will be the last update until The Big Reveal. Cheers!

Wheels (I lost track of what chapter this is.)
 
The main gear wheels are each made of five laminated discs. The outer discs were dunked in shellac to prepare them for rough handling and sanding. Here's the laminated wheels.

 
And here they are after final shaping, painting, and having their hubs added. That darn paint has a tendency to pick up all kinds of dust.

 
And here she sits on her new shoes, including tail wheel.

 
Still bits to add, but since each won't individually make a huge visual impact, I think this will be the last update until The Big Reveal. Cheers!