ccoyle

I have rigged some of the standing rigging, thought I’d share my progress.
 
And yes, I broke the belfry.

And now, the BIG REVEAL!
 
But first, some finishing remarks. Last bits were indeed the gun barrels and aerials: two whip aerials, two mast aerials, and the wire aerial between the two masts. The whip aerials needed to be quite thin, so I dredged up a skill I haven't used in many, many years -- stretching styrene rod over an open flame.
 
You may notice that one of the wheels is a bit canted. I tried and tried to remedy that, but to no avail. It's in no danger of falling off -- just crooked.
 
I have a huge amount of surplus parts left over from the kit, unlike anything I have ever run into before with a card kit.
 
As for GPM, well, what can we say? I finished it, but it wasn't the most fun I've ever had with a kit. I won't be sending any more hard cash GPM's way in the near future.
 
The finished model is the largest plane I have yet built -- it doesn't fit on any of my shelves! 😳
 
And now, enjoy some pictures!
 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers!

Dry fittings some beams as well as some preliminary sanding of the hull. 

Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑  So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
 

 
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
 
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
 
Cheers!

Ugh. One down, thirteen to go.  😑
 

 
If you ever see me complaining about card radial engines, this is why!

Starboard side first planking went on just as easily. 
I had some spare stubs of dowel which  I stuck in the mast holes, almost an Admiralty style model, these are helping provide some protection to the gun port arches when I’m working on the planking on the upside down hull.
 
After sanding and filling there is a really good firm base now in place for the second planking. 
Outer lower counter fitted, glued and clamped. 

Second planking went on well too. Port side complete below. 

The only area I found at all tricky was the more complex curve around the “Y” of the stern. The white filler lines show a little clinkering. Clearly my edge bending skills need further development! 

Grecian will have a black painted and coppered hull so I can be liberal with white filler. 
 
I also applied some Danish oil to the engraved deck to darken it a little. Usually I leave it until later when I’ve smeared glue in places from deck fittings and it leaves the oil blotchy, applying it early should reduce blotches.

I need to start thinking about armament soon. I’ll be fitting her out as an American ship with Vanguard’s period US ensign and green inner bulwarks, but the US privateer armament of 2 x 6-pounders and 2 x 4 pounders is a bit meagre for a ship pierced for 16-18 guns. Even the RN complement of 2 x 6 pounders and 8 x carronades will leave the model looking bare. I suspect I’ll do something more similar to the plans with 12 carronades and 4 cannon. 
 

Thank you very much friends!
 
Boat put away for a while, making anchors, another challenge...🔥




Here, however, a larger burner than the one in the photo is used for heating..

Continuing with the engine, all parts were sprayed with Tamiya LP matte aluminum per manual. After masking, I applied Tamiya X-3 Royal blue, which I left a bit translucent, to have a nice anodized appearance. 

Next, I picked of the ribs and branding with a soft lead pencil. The AK weathering pencil silver was not found suitable after testing. After some detail painting, I assembled the engine so far and decided to give it a coat of Tamiya LP semi matte clear, as the matte aluminum was too matte for my liking. I plan to use a very thin oil wash next, where the clear coat will be a good base for.
 
Another test of patience were the numerous belts, which were sprayed in matte aluminum entirely and then the belts were painted with Tamiya LP Nato black. Various parts, which will be added to the engine block soon, were painted with AK's Extreme Metals dark aluminum, polished aluminum and duraluminum.
 

 
Cheers Rob

Progress on the gun port lids: Second quarter of the vessel, completed !!! I am starting to develop a technique to go a little bit faster and install these in an easier way.
 

 

 

 

 

 
This side is now completely finished, as far as gun port lids go.... Still plenty of things to do....
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Overall view of the beast...
 

 
I will be travelling to Europe for an extended period of time and thus, it may be a while before the next update.
 
Yves

The summer of 2021 contained various interruptions to the building process, however some progress was made.
Blocking was glued in belowdecks for the chainplate attachments as well as for the R/C sheet and rudder controls. The extra glue in the interior of the hull was scraped/sanded away to prep the hull to be sealed and painted.
 
After a final bit of fairing of the deck structure, the 3/32" Baltic birch ply deck panels could begin to be glued down.

The compound curvature required of the plywood did require additional clamping efforts:

After the clamps, etc., were removed, the deck was  given a light sanding and then glassed over for watertightness.

 
 
 
 
 

After nervously glueing the mast in place, I started with the fore stay.
 

 
I liked the look of the black rope on the stays. I ordered what I thought was .06mm, which was the smallest I saw at the time. I got .06” which was massive:-)  I had some black upholstery thread that I ran through all kinds of treatments to create my own:-) Really no need for details on that, I wouldn’t recommend it.
 
Because it was the first time I clipped both ends, before making it final. I then tied a clove hitch with the thread, slid the knot where I wanted it. Dropped a tiny dot of thin CA on it and pulled it taunt.
 

 

 

 

 
One thing I didn’t think of and should have was making the chainplates. I didn’t check how well it married with the given turnbuckle. I was lucky one did and one had to have help from my messy friend CA.
 


Don’t look at the messy hook. Look at the nail I made from smashing a copper wire and bending it over:-) I couldn’t get the shoulder under the head of the tack in kit to lay down. They got put with my .06” rope.
After the stays I threaded the blocks on travleler 
 

 
Here is a better shot of the looped beading needle that’s been so helpful.
 

 
Next I threaded the three corners on the jib sail.
 

 
Another beginner error with the downhaul line false eye. I used the thin CA. It wicks and hardens the rope. There wasn’t enough room for the block to stand up.
 
Here’s what I’m using and the applicator.
 

 

 
I pull the lines snug and either taped or weighted them down. I need to check them over, glue and trim. The topping lift, and a punch list is in the future.
 

 

 

It took hours of sanding and dry fitting but I finally was able to assemble the frames and keel pieces. 

Good morning, everyone.
I am very grateful for accepting my request. After a long illness, I have decided to resume a hobby that I abandoned almost 35 years ago. I started with plastic model kits, but I always had a strong desire to delve into wooden models. Now that I have a little bit of time (not much), I have decided to embark on the construction of an 18th-century Spanish frigate with 22 cannons.
In my early days, I had a collection of magazines that provided a step-by-step guide for building the model, and they would eventually send you the blueprints. My mistake was lending them to a friend, and they never returned... but a few months ago, I found them again on a collectors' website and decided to buy them and start over.
I feel a bit apprehensive about starting, and I will need a lot of help. Right now, I am gathering all the manuals and tutorials I can find. Although I think I might get overwhelmed by so much information, especially considering my English is very rusty... but I am confident that I will receive unconditional support from all of you.
I hope to share the progress I make on the model and the helpful advice and instructions that you will provide.
Thank you very much.

Rigging - done. Missing a few ropes on the deck though.
 
Also I have ran out of the rope for placing flags... So will have to wait a few weeks untiI I will get it from Amati shop 😅
 
I am very happy with the overall result so far 🥳

Well the full kit arrived and everything seems to be there. The mast appears to have a bit of splintering, but luckily have one from the original kit. Got a new puppy yesterday so that's taking a little of my time! Hoping to start soon ⚓️ 
 
 

Hello everyone!　My name is Greif.
I just joined this group.
Thank you for approving my participation.
I am speaking using a translation tool, so sorry if my English is not correct.
I am a beginner in shipbuilding.
I am planning to make a card model of a ship or a radio-controlled card model of a ship, and I am currently making the data (3D model) of the ship that I need to make it.
Thank you all for your cooperation!

Now is it time for the first spit. Enjoy
 
Model: Supermarine Spitfire MK1a 
Scale: 1:48
Manufacture: Tamiya
Extras: None
Colors: MRP
 

First-class workmanship!

Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑  So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
 

 
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
 
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
 
Cheers!

#8 goes straight down... That would be the front rank cylinder directly opposite the Propeller Governor Drive which is on top of the gear housing...
 
Pratt Whitney R-1830-75 -98 Service Instructions.pdf
 
P W R-1830 Twin Wasp Maintenance Manual.pdf
 
Yes #1 would be the upward cylinder on the back rank... 

Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑  So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
 

 
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
 
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
 
Cheers!

Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑  So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
 

 
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
 
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
 
Cheers!

Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑  So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
 

 
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
 
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
 
Cheers!

Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑  So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
 

 
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
 
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
 
Cheers!

Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑  So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
 

 
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
 
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
 
Cheers!