Jump to content

russ

Members
  • Posts

    3,086
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by russ

  1. The treenails look very good. The pattern is good and their color stands out just enough for some contrast. Very nice work. Russ
  2. Bob: Thanks. I repositioned it last night and it looks a bit better. I have also made the corresponding lip on the inside. Later today I will have a chance to get that installed as well. Russ
  3. Michael: Thanks. That is very true about size. There is very little context in photographs. When it is a component on the table, I can have a ruler there to give some scale, but in cases like this hawse pipe lip on the hull, it is difficult to get a sense of scale. Russ
  4. John: Thanks. I am fairly pleased with the piece. It could be better in places, but once it has been painted it will melt into place. The lips are about 5/32" long while the opening is 3/32" long. The piece is about 1/32" thick. Very fiddly. I have made another for the port side that is very nearly a match for the starboard side. Russ
  5. David: I have used cherry for framing, planking, belaying pins, deadeyes, blocks, etc. I made a binnacle cabinet on my battlestation model, granted at a larger scale, but it worked really well.
  6. Gary: I was just talking about the historical debate and the fact that contemporary evidence is somewhat lacking. That is why there is no consensus. It would be great if we could find some contemporary evidence that would settle the question rather than have a debate. That is not always how historical research works, though. Russ
  7. The 1.5 inch circumference was fairly standard. Lees and Steel both quote that. That would be about 1/2 inch diameter. There are two schools of though over whether the ratlines were tarred or not. Some say yes, others say no. I do not think there is a concensus on that issue. Each modeler can make their own choice on that. As for the spacing, like I said, 15 inches, give or take. Most of the reliable sources say that or something very close. I would say that the modeler needs to work it as close as they can within their scale. Russ
  8. JerseyCity Frankie: It is true that they used eye splices at the ends of the ratlines. The thread through the shroud technique might yield a better looking job if it is done carefully. It certainly is doable. However, it is important to remember that each person has their own tastes, abilities, etc. It is good to know about full size practices though. I am sure everyone will appreciate your insight. Thanks for chiming in. Sarah: I think about 15 inches give or take would be a good height between ratlines. Russ
  9. Good looking jig. This is the type of thing that will make a build so much more enjoyable. Russ
  10. Dan: That is a very good effort. You may find that your port side ratlines go faster and turn out better simply because you are getting the hang of it. Russ
  11. Michael: That is very ingenious. I look forward to seeing your results. Russ
  12. Sam: Thanks. I have seen these scarph joints done both ways and there is no specific reason why I did mine this way. This is one of those items that I would like to research more down here and see what I can discover. Russ
  13. Mistakes are part of the process. Most often, we learn by doing. The ceiling planking looks good. Good luck fixing the deck beam alignment problem. Russ
  14. I agree with Sam about gluing up raw wood to raw wood. I think the finished product looks good. It has a nice contrast to it. Good work. Russ
  15. Sherry: You have made a fine start. The dry fitting, and fairing etc will pay big dividends down the line. Good luck. I will be following along. Russ
  16. Sherry: Thank you for the kind words. I am looking forward to your scratch build as well. Russ
×
×
  • Create New...