russ
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Everything posted by russ
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Pete: So far, it looks pretty good. Just go slow with the sanding and check with a sample plank often. Russ
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Cross-section by russ - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
russ replied to russ's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Sinan: Thank you for those very kind words. However, I think that there are several of the Triton cross sections that are far better executed. We have some really good builders around here. Russ -
Bob: The spars looks good. Have fun with the rigging and sails. Russ
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Dave: Thanks for stopping by. Russ
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The shop looks good. I find it is a good thing to tidy up a bit every now and again. It helps me focus. Have a great day. Russ
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This probably has to do with using the kit's planking strips rather than spiling from wider stock. I have seen it happen before and it is not that big a deal unless it bothers you from an aesthic perspective. Russ
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Mario: Thanks. I really appreciate the kind words. I have made some progress since the crash. Everything since the hull planking is new since the crash. Russ
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There is usually a natural tendency for strakes to be wider at midship, then narrow slightly, especially in the underbody, as they pass along the 2/3 mark of the hull, and then widen out a bit at the stern. This will happen mostly in the lower belt, but it can happen anywhere below the turn of the bilge. Is this what you are seeing? Russ
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Nice paint job. The red lead underbody is very good. Russ
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Guy: I would not worry too much about the rising wood issue. If you stick with the drawings, it will work just fine. Russ
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Mario: Nicely done. This is coming together very well. Russ
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Pete: There is no need to dilute. The treenail should be an easy fit, with just a hair's bit of play. The glue coating on the treenail will take some space in the hole as it dries. I usually ream out the treenail hole ever so slightly to make the treenail a slide fit so that the wood glue coating will make it fit perfect. I wipe off the excess glue that squeezes out afterwards. Your framing is coming along nicely. Russ
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I would not dilute the glue you use on trreenails. Use it full strength. The frame looks good. Nice job. Russ
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Cut the notches before installing the beams. Make sure those are right before you glue any of the beams in. Russ
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Guy: That is included in the keel. The keel and rising wood are NOT separate pieces in the Triton build. We designed the keel to be done with the keel and rising wood all together for ease of building. Remember, the framing and structural details for the Triton build are simplified from what you would see on the actual ship. It is still POF, but not the actual POF like the Echo or Swan class builds. Russ
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Guy: Are you talking about the rising wood? That may be part of the keel itself on the plans. I did not participate in the drawings on the full hull, but on the cross section, we included the rising wood in the keel. Rus
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David: I think you are referring to the bowsprit and the jib boom, right? Russ
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I agree. Treenail as you go. If the frame is in place, glued in and squared up, then it is ready to be treenailed. Nice work so far. It looks like very careful work. That will pay dividends down the road. Russ
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Deck planking looks very good. I would not paint it, but this is an individual choice. Do what makes you happy. Russ
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Everything you need should be in the drawings that were created for this build. Russ
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There is no online link for those tables. I would strongly suggest you get a copy of the Ship Modeler's Shop Notes. It is available from used bookstores through sites such as ABE.com and bookfinder.com. You can also check to see if your local library can get it for you on loan from another library. I would think you can buy a new copy from the Nautical Research Guild as well. I think that most gunport sills would be parallel to the keel and that the sides of the ports are penpendicular to the keel. However, that is what I can see from looking at plans of British and American frigates and ships of the line. Without knowing what vessel, nation, time period etc you are building, it is difficult to try and help. Russ
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From your list, cherry and beech would be good choices. Maple can also work very well, provided it does not have a lot of figure or spalting. If it has a clear grain and texture it will be fine. I prefer cherry. It can go from a light tan to a dark, reddish brown. The lighter color is the sapwood and the darker stuff is heart wood. I prefer the heart wood. Cherry can have some wavy grain areas and knots, but these should be avoided as much as possible. Hope that helps. Russ
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John: There were a lot of differences between French and British guns and ships. It is apples and oranges. Even when the British "copied" French designs, they would fit them to what the British Navy wanted and used. They used British guns, different gunport spacing, British carriages, etc. As for French designs, they rarely used a French design without altering it, even if only subtly, to get a ship that they wanted from that process. Russ
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The soft maple seems to be working really well for you. Excellent choice. Russ
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Very nice work. The standing rigging looks excellent. You have done a good job of making everything look taut and nothing pulled out of line. Russ
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