russ
-
Posts
3,086 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by russ
-
In the Mare Nostrum's hull, the skeg is left without any planking. The garboard planking follows the frames up to the stern. This is typical of smaller working boat hull design. The bow planking is done normally. Russ
-
The filler blocks look good. Excellent work. Russ
-
That looks very sturdy. I hope that rubber band does not do any damage to the hull though. Russ
-
They probably do not email you about such things. I would always call them and check with them to make sure. Russ
-
That looks good. It seems to be very precise. Nice work. Russ
-
The Phantom kit was probably out of stock for the moment. They often have several of a kit on the shelves and there is no need to back order. It was just an inconvenient moment when you ordered. You can make your own templates from the plans or use the templates in the kit. I use artist's acrylics from Hobby Lobby. They are inexpensive and last forever. If you have a local crafts store like that, check out what they carry. Or you can buy the paints from Model Expo. The green mat is a self healing mat that you can buy from the crafts store in various sizes. It is used as a cutting board for when you need to use an exacto knife or small razor saw. I got one a while back and now I wonder how I built models without it. It is a good investment, especially for the "table top" modeler. Good luck with your build. Russ
-
Gerty: Thanks. This research is ongoing, and I hope it will further people's understanding of how these boats were used within our local economy and their place in our cultural history. Russ
-
The deck planking in the kit is a scribed sheet, but you can substitute individual deck planking strips at your expense if you like. That is what Gerald has done. Just a little kit bashing to improve the kit. Russ
-
Manufacturing of laths of an octahedral profile
russ replied to Garward's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This is a good idea that has been around for a long time. I recall reading Clay Feldman's work on his Armed Virginia Sloop back in the early 90s. He used this idea to make his mast and spars from square stock. He used a hand plane and a slightly deeper groove. Russ -
Ken: I think 3/32" square stock will be muuuuuuuucccchhhh easier to bend in that radius. It will require soaking as Tony suggests. I have never done it with cherry, but if he can do it with walnut, I am sure it can be done with cherry. Cherry should have a finer and closer grain than walnut. Russ
-
I have seen maple used in framing and planking with good success. Russ
-
Ken: I really doubt that there are many woods that would take that kind of bending. Perhaps if we knew the purpose, others might be able to suggest some alternatives. Russ
-
Rod: First of all, this is a really nice build. I am impressed with your work. On seizing lines, I use a third hand device to hold the lines and then add the seizing. Some folks will use a bit of CA on the lines, but I prefer using Elmer's white glue. It dries clear. Russ
-
John: The bowsprit rigging looks good. I am looking forward to seeing the rest of the rigging. Russ
-
CALDERCRAFT ADMIRALTY PAINTS - WHERE TO BUY IN USA
russ replied to samueljr's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Sam: I agree about buying direct from Jotika. However, you can probably find really good acrylic paints in the local crafts store. I use artist's acrylics and find that they are very good and very inexpensive. Russ -
A becket is an eye that is seized into the block's strap. In this case, the end of the throat halyard is seized into the becket and then down through the second block, back up through the upper block and down to the deck. Russ
-
Pete: Nice work. That is some careful measuring and sanding. I like the sanding stick. Russ
-
I agree that the hull looks great. Nice work making the cradles. Russ
-
I am not sure what to tell you on this planking issue except that you need to use the method that works for you. Dry fitting the planks to check their fit is a good idea. Russ
-
Pete: Thanks for looking in. Russ
-
David: The board was rather long and wide. It might extend another foot or so when down, maybe a bit more. I suppose it would act as a skeg of sorts, although most of these boats were built with a skeg like the one in my design. The main reason for the centerboard was to enable to the hull to get up to windward without making too much leeway. The interior framing on a freight schooner was far more substantial than that of a fishing schooner. The frames of a fishing schooner were anywhere from 3-6" square in cross section, with maybe slightly more moulded thickness at the keel, but not always so. They were set anywhere from 16-24" on center, although I have found one instance where they were spaced at about 13". The frames were dovetailed into mortices in the keel on either side of the centerboard slot. There were internal blige stringers as well as ceiling in the hold. Even with longitudinal strengthening, stories are told about how much the hull would "work" when under sail. Russ
-
Zev: You can get that seam out with some careful filing. A small jeweler's file would do the work. A good set of 4-5 inch files with various profiles will be a good thing to have in the shop. As for the Byrnes plate, I also have one and I am entirely satisfied with it. Just made some treenails with it a while back and it is the best one I have used yet. Russ
-
Deck caulking
russ replied to Tarjack's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
That looks good. I have done that with black and grey for more modern ships. I first read about that technique in a book, either Underhill or Longridge. They were writing in the 1920s and 30s and Underhill in the 50s. It is a very effective technique. Russ -
Plank lengths
russ replied to Blueskippy's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hull planks would be 25-30 ft in length, and deck planks about 15-20 ft in length. Russ -
The trucks with the iron band around them were used on land based artillery, like in a fort. The iron bands were to protect the wooden trucks from stone surfaces. Shipboard cannons would not have had iron bands that I know of. That would be hard on the wooden decks. The British did not use them and I am fairly certain the Americans would not use them either. Russ
Our Emblem ®
