russ
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Everything posted by russ
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I would paint the wheels (called trucks) the same as the carriage. Russ
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Brian: On more modern working boats, the horse was quite popular. It was a piece of bar bent into a "U" and then bolted through the deck into the beams on either end. It had a ring on it called a traveler that would be shackled to the lower sheet block. This allowed the sheet block to "travel" the length of the horse. I would go with Lees or Steel on this. Russ
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You can leave some slack in the braces and sheets. However, I would not do it unless I knew for sure that the sag was going to be very natural looking. If it is going to look like the line is crumpled, then you are better off making them suitable taut. Getting that natural sag is not all that easy from what I have seen in other models. Russ
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Eric: That carriages looks pretty good. Ideally, the front wheels are larger than the rear wheels, but since the plans probably do not call for that, you should be okay with both front and back the same size. Red for the carriages was very prevalent back in that time period. They used a good deal of red on the inboard surfaces. It was easily had and inexpensive. Russ
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That is interesting and baffling from my point of view. You might be holding the flame to the joint too long. That is a possibility. Try it with the level lower and see what happens, but also do not hold the flame on the joint for too long. Once you see the flash as the solder is melted, that is it. Immediately remove the flame. I usually only need 2-3 seconds at the most to complete the joint. Once it is made, I can pull, twist, or bend the joint with no problems. I have made mast bands with 4 lugs and not had any problem with joints coming loose while soldering the others. Russ
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Robbyn: Nice work. The hull and decks look really good. Nice treenailing detail on the deck. Russ
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Keith: Your deadeye alignment diagram is correct. Russ
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That is a fine looking model. Great interior details. Congratulations. Russ
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The stanchions came out quite well. Nice work. Russ
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That looks good. Not much more to do, I think. Sheets and braces will just about do it. Russ
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US Brig Syren by Gahm - Model Shipways
russ replied to Gahm's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
The carronade looks very good. The fit seems to be good as well. Nice work. Russ -
The dredges look pretty good. I think they will pass muster. Not sure what kind of soldering you are doing, but I have never had a problem with soldered joints melting while silver soldering with a torch. It is important not use too much heat in silver soldering. You can melt the entire piece, but I think that would happen before the joint would fail. The 3/32" rings should not present much of a problem. It just requires some magnification and a little practice. These kinds of operations take some time. Russ
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I think that cutting new ones might be the best option. However, be careful when using a ready made dowel. they are often cross grained and that can be a problem. However, if your dowel is suitable, then drill a small hole into the middle of the end grain. You can use the point of a knife blade to make a center mark in the end grain so that the drill bit does not wander. Drill down just a bit and then go to a slightly larger bit until you get the size hole you need. You can leave it a bit small and then ream it out with a round jeweler's file. To cut off the wheel from the dowel, use a miter box and a razor saw to make the cut. You can clean up the faces of the wheel with an emory board to get it to the thickness you want. This will take some time, but it is a good exercise in scratch building. It may take you a few tries to get good results, but with a little practice, you can do it. Russ
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Michael: Thanks for looking in. Centerboards were a must down here. Shallow water everywhere, and the schooner rig with a broad, shallow hull demands a centerboard. Sometimes these schooners dredged oysters in only a few feet of water over a reef. Russ
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David: Thanks. I agree about the lines. Biloxi boats were praised in the surrounding communities for their lines and construction. The length to beam ratio on these boats was anywhere from 2.7 to a little over 3. This boat is at 2.89 going by her register dimensions, The register dimensions on this boat are 38.4 ft long, 13.3 ft breadth, and 2.8 ft depth. The actual length on deck is 41.0 ft. The draft at the stern post is 2.5 ft. The breadth had to be great for stability. The centerboard was a necessity using schooner rig so that they could point up properly. Even so, I imagine these boats could be a bit leewardly given a chance. Russ
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Michael: Nice work as always. The band and lugs on the bowsprit are incredible. Russ
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It is good that you have a system that works for you in planking. It appears to be very organized and that is always a good thing. I agree that pinning the soaked plank to the hull is a good idea. I have never soaked a plank that long, but if it is working for you, then stick with it. Russ
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David: Very good work on the keel and stem. Russ
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Printing all the plans and taking some careful measurements is never a bad idea. Russ
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Nice work on the deck framing and knees. I did not see any gaps. Russ
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Gerald: The joggled deck planks look very good. Nice work. Russ
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Steve: Glad you reposted this log. You have a great looking model. Very good work. Russ
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David: Very nice work so far. I will be following along as you build. Russ
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Craig: Congratulations on a great build. Well done. Russ
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This is most likely an issue of an older kit where the bulkheads etc were laser cut from a plan that was CAD traced from the original hand drawn kit plan. If the plans had been completely redrawn and refaired in CAD, the bulkheads would accurate. This is an educated guess from my own inspection of this kit and several years now drawing my own plans in ACAD. Good work on the model so far. Russ
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