russ
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Everything posted by russ
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Do you not have the carriage and cannon? There is a table of dimensions for carriages in Ship Modeler's Shop Notes, from the Nautical Research Guild. The table covers 4 pounders and larger. Russ
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Cross-section by russ - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
russ replied to russ's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Pete: Thanks. I appreciate the kind words. Russ -
Richard: That looks good so far. Nice mix of tones in the planking strips. Russ
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Alex: Beautiful work. Congratulations on a fine looking model. Russ
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The filler and transom look much better now. You can take some of the planking and hold it up against several frames and see how the fairing goes. Fairing is a long process of sand, check with a pank, sand some more, fill, check with a plank and so forth. Russ
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Guy: Yes, those drawings are what we used in developing the plans for this build. Russ
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Shot diameter will do. There was a slight difference between shot diameter and caliber as I recall, but it should be close enough for your modeling calculations. Russ
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According to Charles Davis's book, The Built Up Ship Model, the sill height would be 3.5 times the caliber. Russ
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Cross-section by russ - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
russ replied to russ's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Guy: Thanks. Glad to see you back as well. Russ -
Adam: That is a good looking model so far. You have done good work framing her. Russ
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Yes, the floor timbers are forward in the forward part of the hull and aft in the after part of the hull. Russ
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While silding ways are interesting, one thing that most modelers want when they place their model on a display base is that it NOT move. Your choice though. Russ
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For the display, the options are wide open. You can do anything you please. Brass pedestals or launching ways, either sounds good. Russ
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That is a good looking model. Congratulations. Nice work. Russ
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Alfons: That looks good. If the joints are good, you will be able to give them a slight tug or bend without any issues. Russ
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Pete: That jig is a very good idea. Excellent work. I also agree on the fillers for stiffening. I have used that on a cross section model and it worked well. Russ
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Dick: Thanks. It has been good to be able to work on it a little bit. Russ
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The shape of the filler looks pretty good so far. Still needs some fairing though. You are on the right track with it. The bottom planks will curve up to end at that horizontal line at the transom. Along the side, you need to smooth it out from the end of the last frame through the transom. Russ
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A framing question
russ replied to rafterrat_2005's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The answer will depend a lot on how accurate you want to be and what sort of ship you are building. The short answer is that the framing dimensions can be whatever you want them to be. Without knowing more about the ship in question, scale, time period, it is difficult to say more than that. Russ -
Try bending them over a steel machinist's square or a small anvil. A piece of machined metal will give you the sharpest angle over which to bend the wire. Russ
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Carl: Okay. Thanks for looking in. Russ
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Thanks. It is very enjoyable working on this model. Hopefully, I can get a little more done this weekend. Time will tell. Russ
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Carl: I am not sure what AF means. Russ
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Kevin: I have used hidden dowels like that to attach things on models and it really helps. Good work. Russ
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Carl: Thanks. I will be the last person on earth using imperial measurements, I have no doubt. Russ
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