ir3

Interesting that the messages I received did not speak of the certificate expired. Glad that's the only issue.

Has anyone attempted to go to Seawatch Books website in the last few days. I get a warning from all of the browsers that I use that the site is unsafe to access.

Here is a picture of the Japanese ship Yamashiro with torpedo nets stowed. Perhaps a sister ship??

Any updates forthcoming?

I just looked at your previous PE work, especially the railings which are extremely difficult to shape and mount. I think you will do just fine with the very small parts.👍

I appreciate the difficulties in installing PE. It is my worst nightmare. My biggest problem is managing the adhesives to fasten the parts. Keep working at it. It truly enhances the model considerably.

Chuck,

Great project, I'm in.

Iran

Nice recovery. Went through this on two previous builds over the years. Everything must be methodically measured and checked against the plans. If not, disaster. Keep up the great work.

It's really works quite well. If no interest in the next week or so, it will go to the local flying clubs auction.

Hi Ed,

Following this thread is pure joy. An education on every page.

For SJSoane and others I suggest Google "Around the Horn movies 1930's" and you will get a first hand view of the crew working in extremely rough weather. "Imaging climbing out there in heavy weather..." took very special people to do that kind of work.

Hi Greg, excellent work. I am totally befuddled using CA on parts mostly at the scale of the Yamato. No matter what advice is given I fail miserably. Could you please relate some of your techniques as it appears to come very easy for you.

Thanks,

IR3

Just tuned in. I just love the exquisite wood work on the old speed boats. Very nice job. Keep up the good work.

IR3

A bit more work on the DQ. The Texas (or Hurricane) deck is on and more windows in place. This brings the total up to over 150 so far. If you like windows, this is the kit for you. I had trouble at first with windows falling off after gluing. It turns out that I need to scuff up the backs of the windows to provide a good medium for the thin CA. That and kicker has the windows on pretty firmly. After priming and painting there should not be a problem with windows falling off.

I still need to put in the doors. The plan indicates that they are wood panel doors which I am not going to attempt. I have the stamped out Saito doors which I might paint some wood color. I need to check some pictures to see if these are indeed painted white. BTW, one of the good parts of the kit are the stampings for the windows and doors. They actually came out quite nice.

I have to deal with the shear before painting. It is really bad and due to very poor die cutting of the cabin sides. I assume that at one time the parts were die cut perfectly but as time went on not much maintenance was done on the dies.

Hmm, just noticed the missing window on the Cabin deck.

Until next time,

IR3

A bit more work on the Delta Queen. Many problems fitting the various deck pieces. The sheer of the boat was almost impossible to set up. With the fiber glass hull being so uneven and the frame punchings so poor the corrections could not be made until the main cabin structure was started. This was not practical. So the boat goes into the classification of Stand Off Fun scale. It is strictly a small pond or swimming pool model and will never be a show winner.

I started on the main cabin structures. This is removable to get access to the interior. Not shown in the pictures is a small inner box on the first deck level to seat the cabin structure.

As you can see from the pictures the sheer has its problems. I will deal with some of them but for the most part, since it is removable probably not too much effort.

Until next time,

IR3

A bit more work on the Delta Queen. The door knobs have been installed but alas, unless one looks very closely the first deck obscures them. But at least they are there. The fore part of deck one is installed with the support pillars. I kind of wish I did the fore portion of the model as the Victoria. It is more presentable with staircases going up to the first deck and a different front. Of course, this is the Delta Queen and so it will be the DQ.

Before going on, I need to caulk the seams between the hull and the inner structure to prevent water from coming in. There is very little free board so keeping the interior dry is an absolute must. The steam plant will be coming out for this operation.

Until next tine,

IR3

A bit more work on the Delta Queen. I aged the deck a bit using the Micro Mark product and it seems ok. It looks a bit worn and used. A few of the fittings are in place and the doors need door knobs. I need to coat the heads of some pins black and it will at least add a bit of contrast. I hate painting!!!!!

Next step is to start on the next deck.

Until next time,

IR3

Hi Mike,

I am not familiar with the Model Shipways Chaperon but is seems that it is large enough for a small steam engine. It would be interesting to see one of these running under steam power. Just a thought.

IR3

Chuck managed to restore my old account for me so this thread will probably be locked but once that happens I will restart it under my old id, ir3. Thanks for the likes. It is a fun project.

IR3

I parted with the Engel Type VII for several reasons. First and foremost, very difficult to transport. My current transportation would not handle a boat of this length. Also, there is very little opportunity to run the boat in a clear, unpolluted lake or pond. The nearest one is full of ducks and other birds and I just can imaging sucking up some of the filth in the ballast tanks let alone be able to see it while submerged. It has moved on to a very capable individual that has a lot of sub experience. It was both a hateful and very enjoyable build with many obstacles to overcome but the experience was well worth it. I have also dropped out of the model aircraft part of my hobby interests so I can just concentrate on watercraft.

I should be getting back to the Loire soon and will get back to the build thread. Thanks for the followers on this thread. Much appreciated.

Until next time,

IR3

I am starting on getting all the pressure lines checked and had to do some work on the forward piston tank water line. It is a very tight area to run the tubing and there are kinks at both ends. The max depth pressure sensor is located in this area and it is quite big. There is barely enough room for the 10mm od tubing to fit.

This is the connection to the outside water pressure. The aluminum tube runs through the rear bulkhead and is open to the sea. Note the kink.

This picture shows the connection going to the forward ballast tank. Note the small kink in this line. I am not to worried about this kink but I will be sending an email to Engel with some pictures to see if there is a better way.

I solved one kink by making a right angle fitting out of 1/4 thin wall brass tube. It still needs to be cleaned up a bit. My soldering leaves a lot to be desired. I may have to do this to the other connection at the ballast tank.

Next problem to solve is getting in the tubing for the pressure sensor itself. The second picture shows the nipple on the sensor. The tubing runs through the hole to the other side of the bulkhead where there is a brass tube that runs to the rear bulkhead and is open to sea water.

BTW, the pictures show a green phenolic ring that is attached to the forward bulkhead. This ring has a set of spring loaded pins. I have the bow plane servo wires going to a specific spot on the ring which matches another ring deep within the hull. This is the way the connection to the bow plane servo is made and still maintain water tight integrity.

Enjoy the holidays.

Until next time,

IR3

It has been a long time since I posted so here is an update. The TMAX2 came back a while ago and has been installed. It appears that the fixes are right on. Both piston tanks are working properly and the TMAX2 functionality seems to be OK. There is a lot to learn about the TMAX2 and its various modes. There is also a depth controller, the TAES, and I have a bit to learn about that.

When I started hooking all the leads back on to the RX I began by using the old wiring scheme.   A bit of a senior moment. Having pulled out what little hair I have left, I consulted my thread to see what I had done only to discover that the RX was moved back into rear bulkhead area. Getting old sucks!

For things to do now, I will be getting the wires neat once again, make sure there all openings in the rear bulkhead have something attached or plugged and work to get the sub to neutral buoyancy. This will also be a good test for water tight integrity and checking that the ballast tanks are working properly.

Until next time from the bottom of the pond,  

IR3

Hi Roger,

A beautiful model. Yes, the kit does have it's sizing errors but you have handled them quite well. Your build will be a very nice tutorial for anyone that is planning to do this model.

Best of luck on your next project,

Iran

Hi Roger,

I fantastic solution to a very perplexing problem with this kit. Can't wait till the next installment.

Cheers,

Iran

Hi Rodger,

Bending the 1mm sq was a nightmare. Once again, I think I was fortunate that I had material that was accurate and pretty straight grained which helped quite a bit. The wood that was not straight grained had a tendency to start splintering. If the splintering was not severe, while still quite wet, I used some CA to smooth the splintering out. It did not stain as nicely as I would have liked but one had to take a very close look to see it.

My problems with the stanchions was similar and I attributed it to slight differences in the width of the decks.

Keep up the great work,

Iran