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ir3

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Posts posted by ir3

  1. The front cockpit floor is centered and installed The steam plant was installed to test fit. The aft end of steam plant base fits under the 3mm x 7mm strip across the bottom of the rear bulkhead. The forward end of the steam plant base is bolted in.

     

    The installation of the prop shaft and prop shaft tube is facilitated by the use of a temporary brass spacer cut to a specific length supplied with the steam plant. With the prop shaft tube and prop shaft in place using the spacer the exact position of the prop shaft tube is set. After centering the prop shaft tube it is epoxied in place at the floor support and at the point where it exits the hull. This ensures the correct placement and alignment of the prop shaft tube. The boiler was removed to do this part of the prop shaft installation. 

     

    It is a pleasure to install a steam plant into a model which is specifically designed for the application.

     

    Next step is to install the keel parts.

     

    Until next time,

     

    IR3

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  2. A bit more progress on installing the floors. Sorry about the absence of a picture but the aft floor rests on a floor support bulkhead, the rudder bushing and a support strip on the aft side of the aft bulkhead. All pieces were adjusted to make sure the aft floor is level. The 7 x 13mm engine bearers are in. The forward floor has been drilled and M4 bolts installed. They fix the forward end of the engine mounting plate. The aft end of the mounting plate will fit under a 3 x 7mm strip glued to the front side of the aft bulkhead after the floor is installed. There is still a bit of fitting needed for the central floor.

     

    Next step will be to align the prop shaft and start on the keel.

     

    Sorry about the shadows but my fluorescent lighting in the shop has failed and finding replacement bulbs in a chore. The fixture is 40 years old, the GE bulbs are no longer produced and the Sylvania bulb end pins may not seat properly.P1040799-001.JPG.506e9a9228f2c4d85ccc31f0958fe5f5.JPG 

     

    Until next time,

     

    IR3

     

     

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  3. Thanks to Gecko and rereading the instructions and following the pictures it finally dawned on me what is happening. The 7 x 13 mm strips are cut to exact length of the required distance between the forward and aft bulkheads. This defines the exact position of the aft bulkhead. There are two floor supports that go between the front and rear bulkheads. The 7 x 13 mm strips are temporarily laid onto the floor supports and on the 3 x 7mm strip on the forward bulkhead. Where the ends of the strips land on the rear bulkhead defines where the floor support goes on the aft bulkhead. This took a while for my aging brain to work out.

     

    Once that is accomplished and the aft bulkhead is temporary installed, attention now is paid to the aft floor. The floor support is set into the hull at the appropriate point show on the plans. The aft floor is sanded and shaped to fit and is inserted into the hull. The problem is to find the floor support strip that goes on the aft bulkhead. Using a level, the aft deck is adjusted until the level shows 0 degrees. This is marked out on the aft bulkhead and the deck support strip is glued on allowing for the thickness of the floor.

     

    Finally, the bearing for the rudder shaft is installed in the hull. The hole in the aft floor is oversize to make sure the rudder post can be adjusted to vertical in two axes. I will be fabricating a small disk drilled to the exact diameter of the rudder shaft housing and this will be glued in place once the correct rudder orientation is set.

     

    A bit mind boggling for me but it is all working out. The heat has driven me out of the shop. Even with the A/C it can't overcome the summer heat here. The next update will finalize the rudder installation and the cutting and installing of the 7 x 13mm strips which support the steam plant. Also permanently fixing the aft floor and aft bulkhead.

     

    Until next time (if my psychiatrist allows),

     

    IR3

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  4. GECKO,

     

    Thanks for the links. You did a wonderful job on this kit. I will follow your advice and make some more brackets to preserve the beam of the boat. I am at the point of installing the central floor and there is a major discrepancy between the plans and the assembly pictures that came with the instructions. I contacted Brian about this but I will also ask you since you seem to have got it right. The plans do not show the 7 x 13 mm beams flush with the 3 x 7 floor support on the forward bulkhead. The pictures show the 7 x 13mm beams sitting on the 3 x 7mm floor support. The pictures also confirm that. Did you also notice this problem and how did you come to the conclusion.

     

    In the mean time, I have the forward turtle deck installed but it does need finishing. The .5mm fiberglass over the turtle deck is an excellent idea.

     

    Until next time,

     

    IR3

     

    OOOPS, MY ERROR. THE 7 x 13 mm BEAMS ARE FOR POSITIONING THE DECK SUPPORT ON THE REAR BULKHEAD. THEY ARE NOT STRUCTURAL. MORE TO FOLLOW IN THE NEXT POST!!!!!

     

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  5. A bit more progress The forward bulkhead is now cemented in. I am using Liquid Nails and it takes about 24 hours to ensure the bond is solid. It will still cure after that for a while. The deck supports have been installed using Liquid Nails. The forward false deck is ready to install after a slight bit more trimming. It has a chamfer around the edges so that after being glued in there will be a 1.5mm reveal of the hull. There are some formers that will go on the false deck shape the 1.5mm veneer sheeting which will constitute the actual forward decking. Holes for two portholes each side have also been drilled.

     

    Next task is to glue in the false deck and get the formers on that shape the veneer.

     

    Till next time,

     

    IR3 

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  6. The cradle is built but will remain unfinished until the end of the project. It serves both as an assembly platform but also a display stand. When the project is finished the sides will be cut down. The top edges of the hull were sanded down to a line molded into the hull. The hull was leveled and the sides were checked to make sure they were at the same height. This will ensure the decks are true both fore/aft and side/side. A center line was drawn at the bottom of the hull and the forward bulkhead has been fitted but not glued. This bulkhead has a 3 x 7 mm strip to support the floor. Next task is to epoxy the forward bulkhead in and get in the deck shelf strips.

     

    Until next time,

     

    IR3

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  7. After struggling with restorations on several kits, it just turned out to take much to much time and very little progress was made. I have several Marten, Howes, Baylis kits and decided that building a kit with high quality materials and excellent instructions accompanied by photographs was the next thing to do. I chose a project the Brian Marten and Liz Howes made available in 2019. It is their Project X. It is a prototypical concept that M and H designed to represent a fast commuter launch of length 50 feet. Its in 1:12 scale with a length of 50" and a beam of 7". With the steam plant installed it has a freeboard of about 2.85" so for steaming purposes it will remain in a very calm pond or swimming pool. The Steam Plant is by Martin Baylis custom built for this project. It is a very nice Triple Expansion Steam Engine with a Kingdon boiler. First cabin if you will pardon the expression!.

     

    I will start out with a few pictures of the unboxing and checkout of the bits and pieces. The hull is magnificent. It will be a very simple process to smooth the bulwarks and finish the outer hull. The rest of the contents are machine cut sheets of various thicknesses and woods as necessary for the various structures in the model. Also and appropriate amount of strip woods of various sizes along with several wire sizes. There are very nice fittings and a prop along with assembled rudder assembly. The instruction manual is very clear and it is supplemented with pictures showing every step of the assembly process down to installation of steam plant and position of radio components. This is going to be a pleasure to build. It is the perfect area to post a build thread as there is a significant amount of wood work and finishing that needs to be done and the MSW is the place to go for the expertise.

     

    Here are some pictures and the first build update will be the display stand.

     

    Until next time,

     

    IR3

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  8. The cabin turned out to be a total disaster. It was very poorly built using adhesives that could not be undone and without the original sprues, the pieces making up the cabin could not be reduced. The restoration of this model was a long shot but there is just too much work to be done to make it right. It would actually be a lot less stressful to find another DQ and start over. That is unlikely so this project is officially retired. The steam plant is removed and the remainder will be relegated to the wreckers. Thanks for following the restoration but and end was not in sight.

  9. I am reoffering the St. Nectan kit. It was purchased in 2016 and unpacked to check contents. When I first offered the kit I didn't notice that there was a hull problem. There is a flaw in the keel. It is perfectly straight but sags about 1/8' to 1/4" in the middle (hogging). I checked with Mountfleet and this is a direct quote via email:

    "Hi
    They all have the same problem, our workshop boat also has one and as ours is sat on the shelf you can see it. I think it was obviously in the original plug.
    it would probably be something that would be difficult to change Thanks Mountfleet models"

    Otherwise the hull is perfectly straight. It still makes up into a beautiful model. With the bilge keels in place it will hardly be noticeable and will not affect the sailing.

     

    I have included a picture of the hull with a straight edge on it to show the problem. I have a lot more pictures of the hull and if interested I will be happy to send them via email. The hull is actually in excellent condition except for the hogging problem at the keel.

    As a result of the hull problem I am asking $795 plus shipping.  Shipping is about $120 - $140 to the North East Coast USA from 91307. The box is 71 x 14 x 12 and weighs 32 lbs.

     

    Thanks for looking.
     

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  10. eBay, S-38 Schnellboot Upgrades. I just searched S-38 Schnellboot Props. A very nice upgrade kit with motors, mounts, shafts, etc. It all installed very nicely once the prop shafts were lined up. Trying to implement the Lurssen effect was my downfall. I have run the boat for a while and then passed it on to an interested individual.

  11. I have a Mountfleet St. Nectan Kit that unfortunately is much too large for my modest work shop and is a bit larger for both transportation and display. It is new from Mountfleet purchased 2016. I have a few MHB kits and the Winchelsea to build and the St. Nectan is just gathering dust. The kit is complete as shipped from Mountfleet. There are some very nice build threads on the net including Kevin's on MSW. I am asking $950 for the kit and I will be happy to split shipping costs. The box is quite large at 71 x 14 x 12 and weighs in at 32 lbs. I computed approximate shipping costs from 91307 to New York and it came out to around $140 but I have not computed it recently. It is the flagship of the Mountfleet line of kits and builds into a very impressive model.

     

    If any interest in the kit, I will be very happy to supply some pictures of the contents but there is enough based an all the build threads and Mountfleet's website that details are readily accessible.

     

    Thanks for looking.

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  12. I commented in a previous post that I would show the steam plant installed. It would have been exactly as in the earlier model pictured above but after giving it a lot of thought, I am not going to use the B2F boiler. Being inside a confined space it needs to have as many safety items installed. While it is the suggested boiler for the Y2DR, it would be very difficult to add some safety features like a fuel regulator and shutoff valve and the throttle is very clumsy to manage. I am searching for a good source of boilers for this model and when I find what I need, I will post it. I need to start stripping the main cabin but that will start after the first of the year as 17 day vacation is coming up.

     

    So Happy Holidays to all and

     

    Until Next Time,

     

    IR3 

  13. So this is about it for now on the foredeck. A lot different than earlier pictures above. The deck now has a steel look to it and the vents are under the second deck. The cleats are from the original kit. Since this is just a swimming pool boat, I just left them as they are. Not quite the same as the ones on the boat today. The reels need some string to resemble mooring lines. The derrick for the passenger ramp will come much later after the main cabin is refurbished. Next update will be with the steam plant and radio installed. I will show a picture of the main cabin as it is now just to show what a nightmare it will be to strip it and realign the parts.

     

    Until next time,

     

    Ir3

     

     

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  14. I have the complete set of The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert including the Swan IV Sail Making Supplement. Volumes II, III, and IV are still in original shrink wrap. Volume I not shrink wrapped but like new.  Asking $225 shipped CONUSA for the complete set only.

     

    Thanks for looking.

     

    I JUST FOUND THE PLANS SET. THE PLANS SET PLUS THE BOOKS IS $285 SHIPPED CONUSA. SO BOOKS $225, PLANS SET $60.

  15. I spent some tome getting the Paddle Wheel area up to date. The railing stanchions from the kit are stamped out of sheet brass but I did manage to find a single ball stanchion 15mm high which is exactly the correct height. There is an opening in the aft bulkhead for the maintenance crew which I may simulate with a black door. This is just about it for the stern. I may add some miscellaneous stuff but that is TBD.

     

    Next update will include detailing for fore deck.

     

    Until next time,

     

    IR3

     

    BTW, some of the likes are going to my previous build (which I wish I never parted with!!!)

     

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