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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. amateur
    Actually, the deck-lay-out has very much resemblance to the schooner Hannah, as drawn by Harold Hahn. In that lay-out, the foremost deck-hole, is not a cargo-hatch, but a sky-light. The windlass is just in front of that, behind the fore mast. Again, that points in the direction of a slightly out of scale windlass, and not of something else. Jan
  2. amateur
    But, without knowing the onformation the builder used, one of the options could still be ‘windlass, build after a bad quality drawing’….. Given the fact that there is no other anchor handling gear, I tend to that option. Jan
  3. amateur
    The Dutch military Museum also has this one in their collection: https://collectie.nmm.nl/nl/collectie/detail/263253/ it was a design by a rather famous Dutch admiral, Van Kinsbergen. the NMM has no documentation either. Can't see which problem is tackled by this design.... (actually, I can think of a number of new problems attached to this one, pusing this thing with a full sized gun barrel is rather cumbersome, I think) Jan
  4. amateur
    Be welcome! We are looking forward to your build log. (And always happy sharing knowledge and tricks) Jan
  5. amateur
    Nice work! Jan
  6. amateur
    Please, do not use links, or desktop-copies to include pics, but the 'add files' feature of the forum. That is the way to make sureeveryone can see the pics. Jan
  7. amateur
    I still am not sure whether I like the scalpels: the scalpels tend to flex, while the x-acto blades are quite inflexible. Is a matter of taste, I guess. Swann is redicously sharp. Jan
  8. amateur
    My cat wasn't interested: they don't move and they don't make noise. As far as my cat is concerned, they are very much like shipmodels. Jan
  9. amateur
    There are some very realistic bird models around. My favorite are the birds by johan Scherft, a dutch paper artist. They are incredibly good, and yet very simple to build (much smaller than that impressive eagle shown above ) and they cost (next to) nothing.
  10. amateur
    Hi Martijn, welcome to MSW. Anything you want to know on shipmodels is here on the forum (somewhere ) Any chance of pictures of your builds? Jan
  11. amateur
    I guess he means that the ringbolts you have made so far have an eye with an inner diameter that is larger than the thickness of the ring that will go into it. I.e. you need a far smaller drill size for your ringbolts. But: using a far smaller drill will result in a ringbolt of which the twisted end is actual thicker (or nearly as thick) as the outer diameter of the ringbolt, thus looking a bit clumsy and out of scale. As far as I read his comment: his suggestion is to make ringbolts like the originals: single wire, and an eye bent into the end. btw: I don't comment or react to your posts, but I am a regular reader of your story. Interesting stuff to read, and a breathtaking model! Jan
  12. amateur
    And back to the original question: Mondfelds book is quite old. Dating abck to the sixties. Back than it was one of the few reasonable priced sources available to modelers. What I do not like about Mondfeld is that he does not give any sources for what he presents: it is not easy to use his book as an 'entry' to the more detailed literature. Jan
  13. amateur
    No, just the plain simple A4 80 gramms printing paper. Jan
  14. amateur
    For some European countries, modelkits are grouped under 'toys', and European regulations stipulate that with toys you should give that warning, as soon as parts under a certain size are included. Has nothing to do with the question whether or not the toy is 'suited' for that age-category. From that point of view the text could also have been: beware, small parts included. (Yup, I agree, still a silly text on a modelkit ) Jan
  15. amateur
    Glue a sheet of printing paper behind these windows, using pva. Even with the paper behind it it was peoblematic. What worked for me was drilling the corners of the windows with a rather small sized drill (.8 or 1 millimiter), and using a sharp x-acto knife, starting from the drill-hole (and a steel ruler to get the top and bottom about level ). Not trying to get through in one go, but several cuts. Using a small file to finish the sills. (Which was a bit tricky with all those cross-grain small parts. What was equally problematic was finishing the outside, to have it look like steel: literally tons of putty, and quite a number of paintcoats. In the end it was 'acceptable'..... (Over thirty years ago, bringing back memories. I liked the kit, and the result was a rather goodlooking tug, since than covered in some dust and grime....:) ) Jan
  16. amateur
    And lots of money? Last one I saw was quite heavily (over?)priced. (As most second hand books tend to be the last few years. ) Jan
  17. amateur
    with respect to downloads: quite a few sites around that are taking copyrights not too seriously. Downloadsections of the cardfora are ligit, as are some dedicated fora by designers. fun are the birds by Johan Scherft: https://jscherft.wixsite.com/website-johan-3/templates-store canon has quite a few models (nope, didn't do any of them) : https://creativepark.canon/en/categories/CAT-ST01-0071/top.html rather interesting (but not beginner models) are the ones by David Hathaway: https://www.papershipwright.co.uk/ looking interesting are these american civil war ships by Marcus Mork: http://modelsnmoore.com/mmork.php Jan
  18. amateur
    One othes aspect of card I like: it is easier to cross boundaries to other 'types' of models: same tools, same (or very much so) skills, completely other result. Jan
  19. amateur
    Not to push you to other internet fora, but especially in the eatern parts of europe paper/card modelling is very, very serious business. There are some fora over there (google tranlate required) that are worth visiting. the amount of skills required is certainly not less than working gwith wood. The skillset is definitely different from the one you need with wood (or plastic,or resin , or....) papermodelers.com is a nice one (and english) And card is fun Which ones did you order? Jan
  20. amateur
    Your detailing and paintwork are fantastic as ever. Not doing the holes in the funnel like in the pic in post #91? Guess that holes are some kind of battle damage, can't imagine that it is rustholes..... Jan
  21. amateur
    In Den Helder there is a shipwreck on display showing a very creative use of stealers, fillers, etc. Couple of years ago Ab Hoving posted a series of picsof that wreck on a Dutch forum. Unfortunatedly, I didn't save thosepics, and the forum went down..... Jan
  22. amateur
    Try a google pic seatch on sailing ship in a gale (add Willem van de Velde when too much shows up). most pics of ships ofthat era show main fore, main sail and sometimes a mizzen. the yard of the main and the fore are quite often lowered to abouthalf height of the mast. Looks impressive on a painting. Glad I wasn't there Jan
  23. amateur
    Needle threaders can also be very usefull, especially for the from bottom to top at the pin rails. Threader down the hole, line through the threader, done. Especially at the pinrail where you have a rather large hole. Does not always work for blocks, where the hole should be the same size as the line itself, but sometimes it also works. lines not ending at a belaying pin: same story: don't tie off before having attached the whole lot. All lines and somewhere, and have to be fixed there. I found it helpfull to do first all the standing rigging, gave the lines some tension (not to much, just enough to keep them straight), fixed all the knots. The stays needed some additional tension, as in my case the braces are attached to the stays, and you don't want the braces to pull the stays in all directions. Next the running rigging was done, mast by mast, from top to bottom. As soon as the standing rigging looses its tension, you know that you are overtensioning the running rigging. (Generally the case: as soon as tensioning a line causes slack in another, just ask yourself: does this line need that much tension?) Overtensioning gives the risk of masts ans spars deforming, or knots coming loose. (Murphy there: always the one you can't reach, or redo without a lot of additional trouble) Jan
  24. amateur
    Hi Marcus, Look at this site, and more specifically the book by Witsen: Witsen Scheepsbouw On page 121 (page 234 in the digital version) he shows the tables for the rigging, related to the mast-thickness. Basically, all measures are circumferences, and related to the thickness of the mast(s). These tables are the underlying tables for what Hoving has in his books. Rescaling the tables in his books, based on the mast-thickness of his Pinas and your model gives convincing looking results. Jan
  25. amateur
    Not according to this drawing https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:HMS_Discovery_(ship,_1789)#/media/File%3ADISCOVERY_1789_RMG_J2021.jpg Jan

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