amateur

Hi Gunter,
 
I discovered in my own build (corel, prins willem scale 1:100) that dor the topgallants some cheating was necessary: the yards are not heavy enough to keep thme in their places without some help. For the main yards, everything just hangs fine by its own weight.
 
@jparsley: next time you should consider making your mastwoolings from rope, or a strip of paper when the original had iron woolings. These brass rings donotlook completely right..
 
Jan

Copied this one somewhere from the net (without the expalantion to the numbers...)
 
The jeers are the two ropes from the blocks nextto the parrels to the underside of the top.
 
Jan

Hi PIet,
 
As alsways, different people different opinions.
I woud say: paint, but not green.... You'll have to paint the caprails.
With repsect to the gallion: the upper rail is  often combination of  black and red, the lower ons are just a background for the more colourfull carving work
 
 

Hi PIet,
 
As alsways, different people different opinions.
I woud say: paint, but not green.... You'll have to paint the caprails.
With repsect to the gallion: the upper rail is  often combination of  black and red, the lower ons are just a background for the more colourfull carving work
 
 

More work done on the KW88.

Prepare the moulds for laminating. It will be a two part mould. First I will prepare and laminate the first half and after that I will remove the wooden plate and laminate the second half. I have never done this before so it will be exciting. It will take some weeks before I can show the results.

Copied this one somewhere from the net (without the expalantion to the numbers...)
 
The jeers are the two ropes from the blocks nextto the parrels to the underside of the top.
 
Jan

I got a picture from Chris Watton's Photobucket, showing the painted gratings. They look OK, the only problem I see wioth those gratings is that they are the 'wrong side up', being not flat on the upper side, but ont the underside.
 
Jan
(PS in that same photobucket are quite a lot pictures of the building process of the beta-model.)
 

I remarked in a parallel thread on these gratings that heynare the wrong side up: the flat side is the inderside, the upper side is not flat.
If I remember correctly, Chris used these gratings as he was trying to get something in scale thickness. The lower decks are completely fitted out, and the deckopenings are the only real see- through option. Therefore in his own pics, the gratings are next to the openings. However, scale thickness required something slightly under a milimeter. Too thin to have them in wood. (Atleast, mass produced in a kit)
 
Jan

I got a picture from Chris Watton's Photobucket, showing the painted gratings. They look OK, the only problem I see wioth those gratings is that they are the 'wrong side up', being not flat on the upper side, but ont the underside.
 
Jan
(PS in that same photobucket are quite a lot pictures of the building process of the beta-model.)
 

I got a picture from Chris Watton's Photobucket, showing the painted gratings. They look OK, the only problem I see wioth those gratings is that they are the 'wrong side up', being not flat on the upper side, but ont the underside.
 
Jan
(PS in that same photobucket are quite a lot pictures of the building process of the beta-model.)
 

I got a picture from Chris Watton's Photobucket, showing the painted gratings. They look OK, the only problem I see wioth those gratings is that they are the 'wrong side up', being not flat on the upper side, but ont the underside.
 
Jan
(PS in that same photobucket are quite a lot pictures of the building process of the beta-model.)
 

And now for something completely different. I took a break from the tedious deck work, intrigued by Garus' steering wheel on his excellent Victory and especially his duplicating device, I build the steering wheel. Using the technique described in TFFM 2 and 3. Not easy but lots of fun, frustration and multiple redo's later, the results:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Remco

Daniel will need another rebuild
 
Jan

Try Billings "HMS Warrior". You need a new home after that (57.9")  
 
Jan

Still a few things to be done around the quarterdeck which I'll get back to later.
In the waist of the ship there are several things that need done. Most of the shot garlands have been fitted but there are still a couple missing. Four ladders serve this area (2 to the Q/deck & 2 to the fo'c'sle) and 2 of them have been made some time ago and are waiting 'in the box'.
I don't want to fit the ladders or the skid beams (which are also already prepared and waiting . . . ) as I don't want to make the installing of the guns any more difficult than it has to be. I've already done a trial 'dry run' of trying to get a gun & carriage in position with the beams and ladders in position and I didn't like the experience. 
I know I could fit all the guns first but I'm a bit reluctant to do so as they will be something else sticking out the side of the hull that I would have to try to avoid damaging.
I have fitted the guard wires/ropes around the 2 companionways on that deck. When doing so I found that 2 of the skid beam supporting columns would have been very close to being in the same position as 2 of the guard rail stanchions --- so, I employed these 2 columns in the dual role of stanchion and column >

 
. . . and seein' as these 2 columns were sticking up looking very vulnerable, I decided to fit their skid beam hoping to stabilise the columns and make them less likely to be damaged. That single skid beam won't hamper any later efforts to fit the guns. >

 
While I think about the order in which I will finish the 'works' in the waist, I moved forward and began doing some 'stuff' up on the forecastle. I made a start on the fo'c'sle rail which still waits to be 'topped' off and the basic structure of the belfry awaits its canopy and bell. >

 

Yesterday I completed coiling all the gun tackle ropes on the starboard side I have been working on.  There is some collateral damage to be taken care off.  Nothing that some 360 grit sandpaper and poly brush-on can't handle.
 
I had to coil the forward rope behind the forecastle ladder because there is no way to put it right in front of the ladder.  The sailor's union would never approve it 
I understand that this may not even be the way it was in real life, too many obstacles on the deck, unless the sailors walked over the gratings.  But it's just to show how the guns may have been rigged.  But then again, they could have easily unhooked the pull-back tackles and stowed them under the gun carriages.
 
After everything is touched up I can rotate the build dock and do the same thing on the port side.
 

 
Cheers,

Slowly, very, very slowly....
 
Murphy is not far away, knots getting loose, sometimes finding out that things were not quite right (the lanyards of the mizzen stay getting stuck behind the parrel of the main yard ....grrrr....)   The forestay is a problem: so many ropes attached to it, that it wants to go forward, even while the individuel ropes are not tensioned. I don't get it better than it is now....   The mizzen yard   And its parrel, quite fiddly stuff.....   Jan

Absolute best are the instructions written by chuck passaro (syren, lonboat, mayflower).
 
Jan

Absolute best are the instructions written by chuck passaro (syren, lonboat, mayflower).
 
Jan

Absolute best are the instructions written by chuck passaro (syren, lonboat, mayflower).
 
Jan

Absolute best are the instructions written by chuck passaro (syren, lonboat, mayflower).
 
Jan

I just remembered: I also started (but still not finished) BB's Mary Jeanne. (still in a box somewhere)
 
Although it is not a step by step instruction, BB at least has its parts numbered more or less in the order of assembly, has their parts properly labelled, has a partslist that seems to be rather to the point.
Besides: the parts that could have some interpretation problems from the general drawings (whcih also - at least in my builds - showed a number of cross sections, exploded views and assembly schemes) are shown in the instruction booklet.
All in all, their instructionqulaity was not what bothered me the most when doing their kits.  Their wood qulaity is a bit shabby, but on the upside: that makes their kits relatively cheap.
 
I am at the moment working on a Corel-kit (Prins Willem) the booklet in that kit, which is rather more expensive than a BB-kit, is not any better ('glue strips to the hull, until fully planked' ), nor is the fit of the precut parts any better than in the bb-kits.
 
Actually, I really enjoyed the bb-kits
 
Jan

I would say: It is rather like a standard Billings-tekst.....
(I did a BB statenjacht, schouw and a tug, they were pretty much of the same quality)
 
Jan

Absolute best are the instructions written by chuck passaro (syren, lonboat, mayflower).
 
Jan

Absolute best are the instructions written by chuck passaro (syren, lonboat, mayflower).
 
Jan