kurtvd19

Very nicely done.

Ken You just need a new needle. But if you send the brush to Badger they will go over it and repair anything needing work for the cost of the return mailing - I don't know about the needle cost as that's owner damage, but I have sen some real abuse to brushes they receive and they just fix and return them.

Your 105 most likely came with the .5 needle/tip. They do make a .7 needle/tip (you need to match the tip and the needle). Unless you have one of the newer extremes, the 105 with the standard .5 nozzle is perfectly adequate for any acrylics - properly thinned/airbrush ready not tube stuff you need to heavily thin. There is a .3 needle - but anything other than the .5 needle is only available by order.

I believe they are lights. The ones at the rear would elevate with telescoping mast - by hand - and pivot 360. I think the parts above the read cab doors are also lights that may strobe when responding and may light otherwise. Sometimes called alley lights. just guessing on this. Haven't been back to where I worked for about 2 years - only go to retirement ceremonies and the apparatus is usually parked outside so the apparatus room can be used for the ceremonies, so I haven't been up cloase to look at the newer stuff.

It is a wide angle mirror so clearance of the bumper extension can be seen and presence of any pedestrians can be seen. This is an addition to apparatus since I retired. Check out buses and such for these too - not unique to fire apparatus.

Do a search on each of these topics - they have been discussed many times - lots of advice & recommendations.

Please use English. #7 in MSW Guidelines copied below. - You must use clear and legible English at all times. Some leeway is given if English is not your first language but please remember that this is an English speaking website and English is the 1st choice of language for postings. Moderators may alter or delete posts that don't make sense because of poor spelling and/or grammar.

We will have some news about scale 3D printed figures sometime in the next couple of months.

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack: A new Shipwright's Series kit. Skill Level 3 Scale 1:24 Kit #MS1472 Overall length 14 1/2 inches – Width 3 3/4 inches - Height 14 inches - Baseboard 4 inches x 10 inches Completed model - Photo Courtesy of David Antscherl This kit is the third in the new Shipwright’s Series of progressive model tutorials designed by David Antscherl for Model Shipways a division of Model Expo. These kits fill a void in our hobby for simple but good kits that teach the new model builders the necessary skills to enable them to move on to build bigger more complex kits. For many years, Midwest Model Products manufactured a great series of kits that were designated as Level 1 through Level 4 and designed to teach the beginner wood boat modeler the basic skills a wooden boat modeler needs to learn. New ownership cancelled the line several years ago and the hobby has needed replacements which Model Shipways is now providing with the new Shipwright’s Series. The instructions for this kit like all the instructions for Model Shipways kits are downloadable as a pdf from the Model Expo website. https://modelexpo-online.com/ If you are curious about this or any other Model Shipways kit downloading and reading the instructions is worth the time. The typical MS blue box Instructions and parts list The Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack kit is labeled as a Skill Level 3 kit both on the box and in the instruction booklet. The first two kits had information on experience needed (or helpful) to have before starting the kits. The level one was simple; “No experience needed.” The level two kit was more specific: “Some previous knowledge is necessary in order to be successful.” The first paragraph on the first page of this level 3 kit has the following advice from the kit designer. “This is not a ‘first time’ beginner’s kit. I want you to be successful, so strongly recommend that you build the Model Shipways dory or pram kit first. You will learn the basic skills and techniques needed to successfully complete this kit.” The author thought this important enough that red ink was used for the entire paragraph. As in the previous series kits the tools needed are called out as well as some that are nice to have but not necessary are listed for the benefit of the newer builders these kits are aimed at. Unpacking the box finds a full color 38-page full color instruction manual, a list of all the parts contained in the box, 16 sheets of laser cut Basswood, cloth for the sail, a plastic bag containing two diameters of nylon rigging line, a plastic bag with Britannia castings: six cleats, two oarlocks and four turnbuckles. Two pieces each of 1/32-inch x 1/16-inch and 1/32-inch x 3/32-inch Basswood strips and a six-inch piece of 3/16-inch dowel complete the kit contents. Overall, the materials are good for the kit’s intended purpose as a learning experience. This kit is a fitting follow up to the Level 1 and Level 2 kits previously reviewed. I recommend it as a good learning experience that will prepare one for the challenges of a multi-masted model. Model Shipways has provided another step in the learning process that is needed in our hobby. Laser cut sheets - 16 total Blocks, nails, eye bolts, rings Cleats 24 and 18 Ga. Copper wire, Brass strip and Brass rod Oarlocks Sailcloth and rigging line

The extended fence is secured with 4 machine screws into the standard short fence. If you have 4 tapped holes close to the ends of the short fence you are set to go. I got mine in 2003 and it was set up for the extended fence at that time.

The best thing you can do so you don't become a statistic would be to put aside the kit you are working on and get a simple kit meant to teach modeling techniques. You are already aware of the issue of how many walk away from first builds that are too complicated - why do you want to go down that road? Do a search of this site for beginner kits - check them out and use the very good instructions in these kits along with build logs here to guide you.

50 ft. I offer this as a realistic appearing option - that might be much easier and I myself wouldn't hesitate to use the technique. Maybe they do it differently in other areas but every place I have ever visited and looked at fire apparatus the hose beds are covered by removable covers. Water resistant to waterproof canvas covers with easy release snaps or tabs that need to be turned90 degrees to lock in that cover the hose bed side to side and end to end and then hang down at the rear so the hose stays dry on the outside. Dirt in the canvas covering will mildew and get grungy if allowed to get wet w/o being allowed to dry out. Packed in the hose bed it doesn't dry out. Model the rear of the hose bed like the photo used earlier. Make a cover that covers the hose bed and shows just a bit of the rear end that is packed in - using about 10% of what you would need to fill the entire area. Use a Styrofoam block behind the hose to "fill the bed" Just like using a canvas cover on a life boat so you don't need to detail the interior.

Try gluing or soldering the hose fittings to the metal before the heat shrink is added and make a smaller shoulder on the fitting for the heat shrink to grasp

You can also use the one piece bottom provided. Please do yourself a favor and read the instructions all the way through before you glue a single part together. I always tell newbies this is always step #1. You can weight the center piece on top of a piece of glass or wax paper and put a bit of glue on one of the side pieces, push them together and weight the 2nd piece till the glue cures. Repeat with the third piece. I have a metal assembly fixture with magnets for this kind of work but weights work just as well.

Actually the hose jacket is canvas and the texture is not real rough - remember the firefighters need to be able to drag it and rough ='s hard to drag. It is a heavier canvass than used on roofs of boats. I just looked at the roll of solder-off in my shop and it's way too coarse. The texture will not be very noticeable at 1/24 or 1/25. Smoother would be less noticed than too rough. I forgot that some FD's use extruded hoses - not in this area though - smooth except for the longitudinal grooves. Check this suppliers photos - https://www.edarley.com/fire-hose/ They actually show yellow booster hose now! Never saw any but it is made.

Look for flat shoelaces. When the hose is packed into the hose bed it stands on edge. I don't know what size shoelace to tell you but today they all use 3" hose for supply/attack lines many times with a "WYE" that branches off to two smaller lines - 1 1/2 to 1/34" dia. that is easier to get into a building, up stairs and around corners.

https://thenrgstore.org/collections/guild-products/products/model-ships-2021-calendar

Price Reduced - just a few left.

One of my local club members is a member and former President of the Association Professional Model Makers www.modelmakers.org and two others in the club were employed in the field. They have taken a tremendous hit with the advent of 3D printing. One is retired - not by choice but he got his SS within a few months. The other two had shops with machinery and all. One switched to a related production field - making mold boxes for castings and is doing fine. The other still has his shop and the work he does for the Chicago area museums keeps him going. But their prototype work died. They both did display props for trade shows - all gone in 2020. The APMM newsletters are a great resource.

I was interested in both the home ex for cooking and shorthand. Back in 1961 home ex was for females only. No exceptions. I wanted to learn shorthand so I could take notes in classes. NO had to take typing before shorthand. At the time I never envisioned a need to learn typing - if I knew then what I know now I would have taken it. Back then girls were not allowed to take any shop classes except drafting. What should be mandatory is a class on life skills. How to make a budget. How to balance a check book - realizing only dinosaurs actually write checks. How to cook. I had a friend who wound up damn near starving to death when he and his wife separated. W/o carry out delivery he would have starved.

Congratulations. It looks great and you learned from the experience. That's a win-win for sure. Kurt

Tim: I too frustrated my Father after becoming a ME and doing drafting by hand long before CAD, I left the field to go onto the Fire Dept. Actually followed after my Father and Maternal Grandfather going the FD route though they were volunteers. My education sure did help down the road when I became a Division Chief in charge of Fire Prevention and part of the job was to review drawings for commercial buildings. All hand drafted and I was right at home. Then we got our first high rise building - 9 stories tall and they were CAD plans. I became a convert instantly. I am still so many years later trying to learn CAD and resort to the drawing board because I can do it quickly. Those first CAD drawings were so different in their presentation and I haven't seen this method used by any other firm since then but the electrical, HVAC, plumbing, sprinkler and other systems were duplicated on transparent sheets that could be laid over the floor plan one at a time or combined - one could see how one system crossed over another or couldn't because it was blocked completely. Now the CAD programs can check for interference's, etc. that just can't be done by hand drafting. But I have never sat down and looked at a set of CAD plans and marveled at their beauty like I have with hand done drawings. Looking at ship plans done in CAD cannot compare to studying plans done in the late 1800s up to the 1930s where draftsmen showed wood grain, coal in the bunkers, etc. Some of these hand drawn plans are worthy of framing. And I actually do have a large ink on linen drawing of a small sloop designed and drawn by Fred Martin dated 1903. I see new stuff all the time - or maybe I forgot I saw it before - age can do that. Kurt

Right on. Lack of research - even a cursory look at photos would have helped the colors - except the pump being hidden from easy view. I initially got up to walk over to my stash of kits when I realized this is a new kit - not a recycled AMT kit - enclosed jump seats are much more recent than the AMT kits.

Closed cab - pretty close to identical to the one you showed.

I know where you can buy the 1956 ALF pumper I first drove if you still want a big red collectable. When I am in my shop here at home I can see the house but not the back yard where it is parked. I see the front end every time I leave the house and go south and wonder why it isn't covered or in a garage. The guy who bought it was on the FD with my Dad and for a couple of years while I was on the local Dept before going full time with the adjoining town. He's gone now and either his son or daughter now live there and don't know what they have. Or did you mean a 1/25 scale ladder truck?