kurtvd19
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Everything posted by kurtvd19
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I agree with Eric about hulls always being painted. I have also seen black hulls but white was certainly the most common. Kurt- 599 replies
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- sidewheeler
- arabia
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Somebody once said this about making money as a model builder "You can make a small fortune as a model builder. However, you must first start with a large fortune". Whatever you charge make sure you have a contract and that you get a substantial deposit - a minimum of 1/3 of the final figure - before you start anything. The deposit has to cover all your expenses and some profit just in case the buyer drops dead or declares bankruptcy. Kurt
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Airbrush question
kurtvd19 replied to Antonio Vasquez's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
The nice thing about over spray from acrylics is that it is dry before it settles onto anything and is just dust to sweep up or brush up. The air pressure, nozzle pattern, how close to the subject the brush is held all contribute to over spray - if any. I use a spray booth but before I used it the table top was dusted off w/o any falling to the floor. I use the spray booth more for the lighting than over spray collection. All of my comments apply to acrylics - solvent based paints should only be sprayed in a proper spray boot with electrical components suitable for combustible environments. Kurt -
Eric: I know I have more than this one photo showing construction of riverboats but I came across this one tonight looking for something else. Note the planking and the under deck supports. Kurt
- 599 replies
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- sidewheeler
- arabia
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Dee Dee: Thanks for the offer, but I have a bunch of these. In fact I have just about decided to use them because after spending almost a full day machining 4 from brass I just am not happy that they look any better than this style. I am just about convinced that the angle of the horns isn't going to be missed in the model. I know that this isn't the first small sloop to be modeled and this style had to be used on those models as nobody sells anything much different. Thanks again for the offer and thanks to all who have pitched in. Kurt
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Ryan: Right here on MSW we have the Triton Plans in the Work Group Projects that you can build a cross section model from or a full model - separated into two projects. Downloadable plans for the frames and keel pieces are accessible in the cross section area that will work for what you want to do. Access to the plans is only $5.00. You can see work others have done but the plans access section is only unlocked to you after paying the small fee. Once you have paid the fee this area is open to you so you can download all or part of the plans as needed - perpetual access. Kurt
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Airbrush question
kurtvd19 replied to Antonio Vasquez's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Over-spray is minimal. I use acrylics and the over-spray is dry before it falls onto the table top. A bit of newspaper catches it easily. Another advantage of acrylics is little to no odor. Solvent based paints are a different story and a spray booth like Hornet suggested is appropriate. Just be sure it's a properly designed unit with the fan being rated for use in a combustible environment. Kurt -
Roger: Thanks for pointing the article out for Ken. That's why I keep the annual index from the first SNL each year. I put each index into a 3 ring binder as well as on the HD of my desktop. Yet, I sometimes do just as you said - search the covers of the collection. Interesting thing about the restoration job. Only shortly after the boat was finished and delivered to the museum here in IL they somehow severely damaged the hull structurally when moving it on or off the trailer for it's first major showing and it's no longer on exhibit. the last I heard. It's about 10 miles from my place and have never been able to go see it - planned to give it a look but they took it out of public view before I got the chance. Kurt
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Ken: It's a two-part article. Started in Vol 54.1 and concluded in Vol 54.2. I can provide a pdf copy of the article. We sell back articles in the NRG store for $2.50 each - downloaded as pdf's - but this one isn't posted yet. Contact the NRG office about payment & I will get it sent to you. Kurt
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The Panama Fairlead is not the fitting needed - wish it was. It's almost square when viewed from the side and the part I need is very low profile from the side - full size they are only 5 1/2" long by about 1 1/2" to 2" high. Two full sized Panama Fairlead's would sink the 26' sloop I am modeling. I will be making up a master, then a mold and then cast, polish and plate the parts for the model. Thanks to all who have commented and provided help.
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Nic: Yeah, I did too. Looks like it's time to make a master and then cast them. I thought about bending/twisting them like you did and adding a bit of low temp solder to the ends and filing to get a master but I think starting from scratch will work better. Kurt
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Found a full size fairlead that's close. Looks like it's time to search through 40+ drawers of parts all in old manila 2" envelopes - I am sure I saw something close to this.
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Thanks Jim. I think the panama fairlead that AOS has is for a Panama Canal rated ship - it has a almost square profile while this chock is much lower profile. I have thought that I will have to cut and modify a closed chock and make a mold to cast copies. I have an inquiry in with the boats owner who's commissioned the model - I sketched and measured the fitting but I can't read my writing (unusual as I normally have very good lettering - but went cursive standing on a ladder in the boat shed). Thanks.
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I need to identify this fitting from a 26 ft sloop. It's some sort of chock or fairlead. The next question is does anybody make one of these fittings so I don't have to scratch a master and cast them? Need some about 3/8" to 1/2" long. I checked Bluejacket and Model Expo and some model yacht suppliers. No go. Any help would be appreciated - even if they were made by a defunct mfg as I inherited a load of old fittings from AJ Fisher, Baucher (sp), etc. - drawers full...if they made some I will search through the stuff I have. Thanks, Kurt
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Welcome to Sherline as a new Sponsor of MSW. They have set up a special landing page for ship modelers. Thanks Sherline for your support. Kurt
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The first build log - tune in tomorrow? Kurt
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- queen anne barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Welcome Master Korabel. Welcome to the NRG/MSW family of modelers. Kurt
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Pat: Wood glue will not work for attaching metal to wood. Either use C/A or epoxy. Kurt
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- sultana
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I didn't give him a lot the first time. Will make sure he's got enough this time. I only had a small container at the time and his ride was waiting. Kurt
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Elijah: I can give you some more stain at the next meeting or if you can stop by. Kurt
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Deno: Had a childhood friend named Dennis - called him Deno. Go to the main page here at MSW and click on the KIT BUILDS. In the upper right of the page is the word search with a magnifying glass symbol to it's right. Type in the Enterprise 1799 there and click onthe magnifying glass image. There will be various Enterprise build logs there to scroll through. Kurt
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Welcome Deno. It would be great to know your real name - you can add it in your profile. Go to the Kit Builds section and do a search for "Enterprise 1799" and you will see several build logs by members who have built this same kit. Look at their builds and start one of your own and show your progress or ask for guidance if you have difficulty. Kurt
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Gluing Planks When Wet
kurtvd19 replied to mikiek's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The drying can be sped up with a hair dryer and I have done this many times w/o noticing any shrinkage. You have to be careful to not heat the wood excessively - that's why I use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun (have both - hair dryer's heat is adequate). As to shrinkage - I don't soak planks any longer than a minute and most times I allow them to dry clamped in place w/o any heat and have not experienced any shrinkage. If the plank doesn't get soaked enough to expand any appreciable amount and the plank is dried w/o heat the wood structure returns to normal equilibrium and the same size you started from. Allowing the plank to air dry assures that it returns to normal equilibrium with the shop's atmosphere thus no shrinkage. I would not glue planks when wet as any shrinkage as they dry has to set up stress on the frames/bulkheads - is that adequate to break the glue joint? Maybe. What's the rush? Kurt -
Gluing Planks When Wet
kurtvd19 replied to mikiek's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
There is no need for nails or other means of securing the planks if the wet plank is clamped in place as close as possible to the final curvature and allowed to dry. When dry any area of the plank needing an additional bend can be wet again locally and re-clamped in place to accommodate the additional curve. When dry if there are any slight gaps they can be closed with slight pressure when glue is applied and the plank clamped into the final position. Very little pressure is required as clamping is only needed for the glue to set. The gaps can be closed with slight edge pressure. One question that was asked was about clamping issues affecting the wood. Soft woods like basswood can be compressed by clamps - spread the force out with a wood block between the clamp and the wood. If a dent is made in the wood by a clamp it's able to be eliminated many times by wetting the wood at the dent and applying some heat to the area. As the heat can also loosen and reactivte the glue be sure to lightly clamp the plank on adjacent frames/bulkheads until the glue resets. Kurt -
As long as you apply the heat gently and don't overheat the wood to the point where the lignin boils, everything should cool off OK and the strength will not be affected. As others have cautioned - Be Careful. These things can start fires - I saw many fires started using these things for removing paint by pros and homeowners before I retired from the FD. Kurt
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