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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    The only thing that's going to change is the scale of the cut-offs that you will be saving. It's amazing how many will wind up being used someplace on some model. Will be watching. Thanks, Kurt
  2. kurtvd19
    I anybody wants to get some of the discontinued Dockyard Micro Chisels I saw a bunch at a wood show this past weekend from a shop in Bettendorph, IA. I bought a bunch of rotary carving bits from them at very reasonable prices. They had the Dockyard tools on display and they are still shown on their web site. http://www.thewoodcraftshop.com There is also a nice dedicated strop for sharpening these tools with all of the curves and angles. Kurt
  3. kurtvd19
    Mike: It's looking great. The pilothouse work is right on! Kurt
  4. kurtvd19
    The only thing magical about that tool is it's ability to steal money year after year from unsuspecting modelers. Kurt
  5. kurtvd19
    OC Test the same combination off the model. The Rustoleum problem was tested with many different paints over it with the same results - the color coats failed to cure/dry - enamels, and acrylics. Maybe they have changed again - that's the problem, they seem to change quite often with poor results. They may have solved the problem, but too late for me to ever try them again. And I can assure you somebody is reading this thread and saying we are nuts that they have never had a problem - and they probably didn't have one - yet. If it tests OK on similar materials in the same layering sequence then it's OK - but test off the model first. Kurt
  6. kurtvd19
    Stay away from Rustoleum. They have changed their formulation and all sorts of bad stuff happens when you put any thing else on it - even acrylics. I will never have Rustoleum in the shop again nor will several other guys I know who learned the hard way. Kurt
  7. kurtvd19
    Be careful of the You Tube videos as some are excellent and others are absolutely horrible and one can get far off track if one of the bad ones is followed. Once you are a bit experienced you can tell the good from the bad but until then sample a bunch to see if there is any agreement between them. Kurt
  8. kurtvd19
    We had a bent hull structure that was used as an example of what not to do, that had been planked on one side and then the other, shown at a NRG Symposium. It had a very visible curve that would never be corrected w/o removing all of the planking. I was surprised that anybody would proceed with the planking of the second side - obviously this was from a modeler with out a club or other input that blindly followed the instructions "plank the hull". Dave is correct that with the blocks added between bulkheads this could not happen as the blocks essentially turn the keel/bulkhead assembly into a solid hull. Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    Jack: Practice with two pieces of flat stock with some flux and Stay-Brite. Set them end to end with one piece overlapping the other - with the flux between the two pieces where they overlap with just a bit of squeeze out at the end of the piece on top and some small bits of the solder atop the flux right at the joint. Heat the brass where it is two layers thick just a bit back from where it overlaps. When the brass gets hot enough the flux will melt and shortly after that the solder should flow. When it flows remove the heat - the job is done at that point and heating it longer will hurt the joint. Let it cool a bit, use a pliers or tweezer to pick up the part and dip it in water. You should have a good joint. Once you see the solder melt and know what to look for you should be good to go. Remember the solder will flow to the heat. If the solder balls up you got it hot before the metal. Hope this helps. Take care, Kurt
  10. kurtvd19
    Glen: I sure wish I had been with Mitch when he visited the INA and your shop the other day. It would have been great to see you and Kevin again - and these two models in person. Mitch told me just how cramped the model shop is with both of the models taking up most of the floor space. I understand he had to borrow your optivisor to see the end of the ball mills you used to do the doors and that he's really sort of taking your word that there is actually a ball at the tip of the mill. Kurt
  11. kurtvd19
    Mike: It's looking good. Alignment can be a bear but in the end it all fits together quite well. Kurt
  12. kurtvd19
    Ken: Glad you got to see the ship. It was supposed to be one of the NRG Conference visits while in San Diego next week - planned long ago but they moved up their touring dates and it will not be in San Diego next week. Love the foggy photos. And the canopy brass work is fabulous I am sure those at the conference next week will be looking it over closely. Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    Bill: I am not sure that this article is in SN2 or not. I took it from the CD set - easier to find. But, the Shop Notes are sure filled with good tips. Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    The method I described for sharpening the blades was printed as a Shop Note (Vol 49.3 - page 176-177). I have attached a PDF of the Shop Note. The NRG publishes collections of Shop Notes from the Journals. Shop Notes 2 is currently available at the NRG Store on the web site. The original Shop Notes has been out of print for a few years but is being republished soon. Kurt SAW BLADE SHARP - P.pdf
  15. kurtvd19
    Jack: I am not familiar with the paste fluxes you mention but both should work. The Worthington would be my first pick to try as the Stay-Brite is lead free. I used the flux that came with the Stay-Brite for years until I ran out and tried some paste flux I had in the shop and liked the way it can be applied in just the right spot w/o running and then the small chips of solder can be placed right onto the flux and it stays in place w/o sliding off. Sounds like the Weller unit should work - the parts aren't very big so should heat up OK. Give it a try - on scrap pieces. Kurt
  16. kurtvd19
    If you can get at all the joints the emery paper works fine. I use heated Sparex in a small croc pot to clean the parts before and after soldering. Either way, clean the residue off and then wipe with alcohol. Don't touch the joint area with your bare hands and use a good flux - I like to use a paste flux - as the bits of solder stick to it better than the liquids. Heat the joint until the solder flows and then back the heat off immediately. The joint should be good. I have used a Smith Little Torch for several years and it does a great job as the heat can be varied by the size tip used. I have started to use a resistance soldering unit in the last year and like it a lot. You can certainly use one of the larger soldering irons with the Stay-Brite but the pencil types probably will not heat the metal enough. Remember to heat the metal, not the solder. The solder will melt and flow to the heat. If able heat the back side of the joint with the solder on the face and the solder will flow into the joint. Kurt
  17. kurtvd19
    Actual silver soldering isn't needed. Try Stay-Brite a silver bearing solder that melts at a much lower temp than silver solder but higher than soft solder. It can be blackened unlike soft solder and is plenty strong enough for the job. Parts need to be clean and adjacent joints need to be protected from getting too hot - heat sinks or clay as a heat sink around the previous joint do the job. Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    David is referring to a method of removing every other tooth on the slitting blade and then filing an angle on the face of each remaining tooth with alternating angles from one tooth to the next. Only on the face of the tooth and no set to the teeth. This was developed by Lloyd Warner of Warner Woods West - and former NRG Chairman - who did this for all his saw blades that he uses to gang cut strips on a custom made saw with multiple blades. The advantage is no binding because the blades don't heat up from the sawdust not being able to be carried away in the cutting process. Bob Filipowski with Lloyd's permission developed a great Power Point presentation that he has shown at a NRG Conference as well as at local club meetings. I will check to see if this was written up in the NRG Shop Notes 2 book. Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    Julie Mo - I used my Byrnes saw to do all of the wood trim in my 2nd floor addition. Cut the 3/4" Oak like it was butter. Best part of using it was that it was easy to carry from room to room rather than walking back and forth to my 12" trim saw that kicks up way too much sawdust. Kurt
  20. kurtvd19
    Mike: It's looking great. The battens sure are a job but they add a lot to the finished project. Glad you got the bends done OK. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    Sjors: You hit on the solution for those who dislike rigging. I did so many repair and restorations that I said 'no more (extensive) rigging" and now I tell the guys that my latest tug boat had a lot of rigging - TWO flag halyards! Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    Mick: At last night's meeting of the local Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago I showed your build log photos of the pink ivory "tiles" to the group and Marc gave a short presentation about the wood's properties - from a botanists perspective - it's availability - and cost! WOW really expensive here! Your photos really looked great projected onto the screen - seen much larger than life size. The group thought the finished hearth was magnificent and that the pink ivory was the perfect choice for the tiles. Take care, Kurt
  23. kurtvd19
    Mick: I too love the hearth tiles. The little "C" clamps are beautiful. Kurt
  24. kurtvd19
    Wacko: Or do you prefer WackoWolf? I wish I knew your name. The 350 is by far the easiest airbrush to clean up after it was left dirty. Simply unscrew the fluid cap and the needle from the body of the brush as these should be the only parts that have any paint in them. You can soak them in any solvent for a couple of hours and the dried paint should soften up so you can clean it out. There is a seal in the fluid cap that can be soaked for anything short of a full day w/o any adverse effects but as long as you are careful of the orifice in the fluid cap and the point on the needle you can't hardly hurt this workhorse. I got my first airbrush for Christmas in 1960 - a 350 and it's still going though in my Grandson's hands now. I have some newer 350's that I use for instructing and I always have to give them a thorough cleaning when the class is over. I just disassemble the cap and needle, drop them into some cleaner and rinse them off after an hour. Only part I have ever had to replace on a 350 is the fluid cap when somebody screwed it down too tight onto the needle and flared out the orifice quite nicely - but not if you ever want to use it for spraying again. For some reason they never do the same thing with any of the other brushes - probably because they look so much more delicate while the 350 looks like it's indestructible. Happy airbrushing, Kurt
  25. kurtvd19
    Thanks Toni. Looking at the handle more carefully I will stick with the aluminum scalpel handle I have been using as it allows the entire length of the cutting edge of the blade to be used. Kurt

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