kurtvd19

Kurt: I got some of the Pro Bond and tried it and dumped the whole thing in the garbage. It might be great for filling something on a rough sawn cedar fence but not on any model. There is a new formula for the Elmer's wood filler - the normal stuff - that is now much nicer than the original - give it a try. I have used it quite a bit and like it. Sands easy and fills small holes like your treenails. If you can't get it locally there is always eBay - with free shipping or Amazon. Amazon link - http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E848D12-Carpenters-Filler-2-Pint/dp/B000LNR4XC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1459349473&sr=8-4&keywords=elmers+wood+filler eBay link - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elmers-Products-E848d12-1-2-Pint-Carpenters-Interior-Wood-Filler-/200632338865?hash=item2eb69e89b1:g:tX0AAOSwpDdVGo5j Kurt

Bill: Thanks for sharing your experience with the lead fittings. I didn't have the same experience thus my opinion. Your experience has changed my approach if I ever do another restoration - something I have vowed to have retired from. Luckily I know another modeler not too far away who wants the work I can refer people to now. How about a lead test kit from the hardware store? Might work. Kurt

We might have a metallurgist pitch in with pure facts, but in my experience if the model is old enough to need restoration and the metal parts are in good condition they are either pure lead or another metal. Pure lead doesn't seem to be a problem as there are lead containers several hundred years old and civil war musket balls are not rare to be dug up in fine condition. Bad lead fittings have a feathery sort of growth on them - some call it a "bloom". I have seen the lead be almost completely replaced by these growths. Had a pyramid of cannon balls on a very dirty and abused HMS Victory model that were covered with the white growth and when I took a tweezers to the pile to see if I could lift it off the deck there was virtually nothing under the whitish growth of feathers. In every instance of lead disease I have seen, the metal bends, breaks or crumbles if it's touched I would make sure the fitting you use for the restoration are not lead but I wouldn't remove good fittings be they lead or Britannia. Just my opinion and what I have done with restorations. Kurt

Mike: I don't use liquid frisket. The frisket I use is a film with a tacky stickum on the one side. It canbe used for painting flames, etc on cars, helmets, etc. Also useful for models. The 3M and Tamiya tapes need to go ver smooth surfaces. Wood must be sanded smooth before being painted. If it's smooth enough for the paint then the tape will stick and seal. Maybe the better way to think about it would be that if the tape sticks and seals the wood is smooth enough to paint. Choice of woods is critical. Too open a grain and you can never seal it well enough with the tape. Kurt

The Tamiya tape is also very good. I use both the 3M Fine Line and the Tamiya. Both are very excellent and resist any seepage under their edges when burnished down onto the surface. Here is something I did earlier today. Fine line tape masked off the waterline (bare eggshell) and then some frisket was placed on the fine line tape to mask off the rest of the egg. Painted the red first, removed the frisket and put it back onto the fine line tape to cover over the red - not having moved the fine line tape, sprayed the blue and then removed the frisket and then the fine line tape. Total time from first starting to mask until done was less than 20 minutes till I took the photo. Acrylics dry quickly. I keeping with the nautical theme here, the red is Badger Modelflex Anti-Fouling Red Oxide (16-401) and the blue is their Tug Medium Blue (16-434). The white waterline is the Chicken's natural Eggshell White. Kurt

Mike: One of the reasons I like acrylics is the covering ability while being a very thin paint thickness. It is important to use model type paints due to the finely ground pigment vs the stuff from the hardware store (1 micron vs 37 microns). Several very thin coats is what I do starting with the first coat thin enough that it is barely recognized as paint with subsequent coats - still very thin - adding up to good coverage while maintaining the wood grain' visibility. When I say thin coats I don't meant to thin the paint out - just apply a thin coat. Kurt

Mike: You are on the right track - always cover the lighter color with the darker color. When you have a ridge between colors try dragging the smooth top side of your fingernail over the ridge along the length of the ridge as soon as the tape is removed - always try to remove the tape as soon as possible. The paint must be dry to the touch but do it ASAP. I use acrylics and can unmask the edge within 5 minutes and then use the fingernail trick. Don't keep doing it as you might rub some paint off - once is enough - don't be afraid of using a bit of pressure. The nature of acrylics is to "lay down tighter" as they dry so the fingernail is just helping the process along. Acrylics can look a bit thick when first applied but they lay down soon. Hope this helps, Kurt

Dave: I am sure others might have comments about the various tools but I have a dislike of the light with the magnifier built into it. It's great for the jeweler or somebody working with small stuff on the bench surface as the magnifier can be set and left in place. With a ship model that ranges from small pieces where the magnifier works to the hull and/or rigging where it just gets in the way it's a tool that is useful only part of the time. I tried this light/magnifier combo years ago and got rid of it in a matter of a few days - luckilly I was able to trade a buddy for a tool he didn't use so we were both happy. I much prefer to use a head band type magnifier such as the Optivisor. I used one with plastic lenses but after being able to try out the glass lens version at a trade show I bought the glass lens version and couldn't be happier. These are available on ebay whereas the plastic lens versions are carried at the art stores such as Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc. The link below is from a current ebay offer - I have both the #5 and the #10 lenses - using the #5 99% of the time as the drop down loupe is great for the extra magnification but the #10 is for when I am doing some extremely close work and you probably will never need the #10. My advice would be to get the glass lens version rather than the plastic as there is no comparison - at least two club members went out and replaced their plastic lens versions with the glass after they tried mine on at a recent meeting. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Donegan-OptiVisor-Headband-Magnifier-You-choose-from-6-Lenses-MADE-IN-THE-USA-/251919955964?var=&hash=item3aa79977fc:m:mOgsmPUjOYwsz_xL9S50mrA I see you are from WI. Do you know about the 40th Anniversary model boat show/contest at the WI Maritime Museum in May? There is info on their web site and here on MSW in the clubs, shows section towards the bottom of the mail MS page. Take care, Kurt

The guys in my local IPMS club who use enamels wait 2 - 3 weeks before doing the sanding / polishing of their paint jobs. Dry to the touch does not mean fully cured. Another reason I use acrylics. Kurt

That stuff you were using sounds like something that should only be used outdoors - hope the workbench was in the garage at least. Kurt

Toni: Looking good - of course. I was glad that you brought one of the cannons to the last meeting. Outstanding. Chuck's cannon Monograms on the barrels are unbelievable Kurt

Elijah: Good thinking on using the tape to lay down a straight line. It's looking good. Kurt

I second Bill's recommendation to get the NWSL original version. Micro-Mark has a habit of buying from the name manufacturer to test the market and then they blatantly rip off the name brand - even down to the name of the rip off being very similar - in this case the NWSL's name is True-Sander. Same goes for the NWSL's Chopper = MM Chop-it and NWSL's The Duplicator = MM Duplicate-it. Micro-Mark did the same thing with Badger Air Brushes - you will certainly never see an actual Badger Air Brush sold at MM again because of this type of practice. In the case of the Badger Air Brush copies people are always bringing/sending the knock offs to Badger for repair. Of course they can't fix them - they were garbage to start with and the real parts don't fit. Kurt

Elijah: I am sure the set up as it is will mark a point on the hull at any point along the station line. Just make 3 or more pencil point dots on a station line and then connect them using a flexible straight edge of some sort. A business card might work or a strip of styrene. Kurt

Glen: Post a photo or two of the wreck model - that shows the condition as found pretty darn good. Kurt

The CD index shows the following listings Kurt HMS Victory, Pt. 1 : McClure, Gene No. 05, MAY JUN 1984, Page 30 HMS Victory, Pt. 2 : McClure, Gene E. No. 06, JUL AUG 1984, Page 14 HMS Victory, Pt. 3 : McClure, Gene E. No. 07, SEP OCT 1984, Page 14 HMS Victory, Pt. 4 : McClure, Gene E. No. 08, NOV DEC 1984, Page 41 HMS Victory, Pt. 5 : McClure, Gene E. No. 09, JAN FEB 1985, Page 31 HMS Victory, Pt. 6 : McClure, Gene E. No. 10, MAR APR 1985, Page 34 HMS Victory, Pt. 7 : McClure, Gene E. No. 11, MAY JUN 1985, Page 20 HMS Victory, Pt. 8 : McClure, Gene E. No. 12, JUL AUG 1985, Page 16 HMS Victory, Pt. 9 : McClure, Gene E. No. 13, SEP OCT 1985, Page 09 HMS Victory, Pt.10 : McClure, Gene E. No. 14, NOV DEC 1985, Page 76 HMS Victory, Pt.11 : McClure, Gene E. No. 15, JAN FEB 1986, Page 14 HMS Victory, Pt.12 : McClure, Gene No. 16, MAR APR 1986, Page 64 HMS Victory, Pt.13 : McClure, Gene E. No. 17, MAY JUN 1986, Page 10 HMS Victory, Pt.14 : McClure, Gene No. 28, MAR APR 1988, Page 04 HMS Victory, Pt.15 : McClure, Gene E. No. 29, MAY JUN 1988, Page 09

I just confirmed with Ken Goetz that he used press type lettering for his markings. Ken's a local club member and we got to see the progress of this model going together each month until it got too big with the rigging and all to haul to meetings each month. These markings were nicely done but I had to ask him how he did them with the memory being what it is anymore - I just say that the hard drive is full and some data's going to be lost to store new data. Kurt

Kurt, A few posts back you mentioned having a trove of fittings from old school ship model companies such as A.J. Fisher.I have a set of plans for their three Island tramp steamer that I would enjoy building.Do you suppose a set of fittings is residing in your collection? It is very likely that some if not all of the fittings are in one of the Fisher drawers. The only problem being that they are labeled only with part numbers - some have a short description as to the type of part. But most are in old manila envelopes and need to be opened to see what is inside. If you have part numbers and descriptions I could look, but to say you need a capstan or winch or ventilator doesn't help w/o the part number. At least until the day comes where I can sort these all out. And day was used figuratively as I think if I was able to sit and work 8 hour days at sorting it would take a month or so to organize these parts in clear envelopes with part numbers and sizes with descriptions so that if I was looking for a capstan I could look in the capstan area or if I needed a specific part number it could be found - time I just don't have and will not have until I step away from the NRG stuff that I enjoy as much as building and writing. If you have part numbers I will look for them - it will take a bit - but let me know. Send me a PM with the info. Kurt

Some time ago I had dry transfers done up for ships names. Proper arc to the art work so it laid down right on the transom for transfer. Straight for the bow. Had them done in gold and white. I was doing this for dozens of models at the same time so it was economical. I recently saw some DIY dry transfer sheets. White was shown. When (or if) I remember where I saw these I will post them but a google search might just turn them up. Ken, last week I was looking at the photos you sent me of the ladder wagon. There will be a lot of firefighters wanting that kit. Kurt

Looking good Dan. It pays to take the time to redo something you know just isn't as good as you can make it. Don't leave duct tape on too long or it will leave residue. For the time you are working on it no problem. Just don't use it and leave the model for a week or two (or even longer) before getting back to it. The stuff sticks better the longer it's on until all the adhesive is wicked into the part and when the stiff tape is removed all sorts of adhesive is left behind to gum up the wood. Ask me about this at the meeting and I will tell you how I know.... My tape holders by my desk always have a roll of duct tape as well as blue painter's tape for those jobs that need a good hold that will not loosen. I consider both as essential tools. Kurt

Ken: Thanks. Yes, I was amazed that the cast threads worked so well when I assembled the pumper. The detail was amazing on all the cast parts for that kit. I told a buddy of mine about the horse drawn hearse and the high quality cast parts that will be in that kit (from your masters) and if it's ever produced he wants one built. Kurt

Yeah, the kit piece is never going to be better than the master. GIGO applies to kit pieces too. I got some bollards in a tug kit that were nowhere near round. Very much an oval shape and way too thin on the thinner side of the oval to even attempt to make them round by filing. It would have been an exercise in futility to ask the manufacturer for new parts - the replacement would not have been better as it wasn't a matter of an incomplete fill - the molds were worn out. I inherited a bunch of old parts from a club member. He worked part time for a downtown Chicago hobby shop that closed in the late 60's or so and he got all the ship fittings - fills a whole bunch (27) drawers of a cabinet that just fit in my mini-van. All the parts are in extremely dusty/dirty manila envelopes of the day. Opening them up is a real treat because most of the parts are of very good quality. Brass castings, brass turnings, multi-part brass pieces soldered together. Names like Boucher, A J Fisher, Marine Models, Billings, Model Shipways. Now, none of these parts are newer than 1970 or earlier. Of course, some are better than others, but they were all better than the average parts in a lot of today's kits. Amazing quality - maybe it's because these were all made in the USA (exception being Billings) Not any signs of the dreaded white lead disease - maybe it's because these were all made in the USA? (same exception) I wish I could use some of these parts as masters and make up new fittings in the metal spin casting machine I also inherited from the same guy. Even if I could do it legally there just isn't enough time left. Kurt

Elijah: Yes, that's a wing nut. If you don't have the wing nut you can make the same sort of tool by using a clamp to clamp the upright and the pencil holder at the correct position. Saves making the slot. Kurt

Elijah: I have some cherry veneer in my shop that you can have enough of to do the planking if you want it. Let me know. Picked it up for a job that fell through. Kurt

Glen: Great work - as usual. These will be world class models when finished. Kurt