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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    I try to clean up as soon as I notice too many tools on the workbench rather than in their proper place and I try to always use the shop vac when cutting or sanding. However, nothing works as good as having the monthly club meeting here in my shop - it forces me to do a fairly thorough clean up at least one a month. Kurt
  2. kurtvd19
    Here is a photo of two handles I prefer over the stamped metal disposable handles. Each cost under $10 on eBay. The metal one is the better of the two but there is a different plastic handle that looks very similar to the red handle but costs a lot more that some prefer. I can use the metal handled one show for hours w/o any issues but the stamped metal ones hurt my hand after just a few minutes. Kurt
  3. kurtvd19
    Elijah: Dave was and still is a member of the NRMSS and was Secretary for many years until he had to drop the job due to health and now his living in IA. Kurt
  4. kurtvd19
    Cathead: Call Bluejacket tomorrow and ask them. They are quite helpful and will surely tell you if the product will do what you want and how to do it. Kurt
  5. kurtvd19
    Cathead: Again - great model and thanks for sharing the building with us. The Arabia is an interesting subject. I don't know of any sort of plans for it. Would probably have to be mostly conjecture and practice of the day to arrive at a model. If you know of any sort of plans please let me know. Take care, Kurt
  6. kurtvd19
    Cathead: Congratulation on completing a great model. Can't wait to see the rest of the photos. The name board and name on the side look great. Kurt
  7. kurtvd19
    Nice work on the Grasshopper spars Cathead. I have seen them on only one other model that I can remember. A very nice touch and great explanation on their use. The only way I can think of to make them hang realistically would be to weight them like you did while coating the rigging with very thin white glue and letting the glue set up with the weighted spars hanging. I did this with the landing stage on the Chaperon - hanging off the bow and not heavy enough to weight down the rigging w/o help. The only problem with what I did, (and you took the precaution that will make sure you don't have a similar problem by attaching them to the side of the hull) was that when the cased model was dropped about 6 inches at the NRG St. Louis conference the landing stage broke loose from one of the lines as it was able to swing freely being held only by rigging. It was very difficult to reattach the lines after they were cut to size - I had to resort to using some C/A in place of a knot on one line. Kurt
  8. kurtvd19
    Elijah: Welcome to the NRG. Mary processed your membership this morning. Look for your membership card in the mail. Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    Elijah: Good start. The string idea works well. You have connected the line on deck and the line along the keel, stem and stern. You need to make sure that with these lines connected that the centerline at the bow and stern are both parallel. You can check this by leveling the hull port to starboard and lock in place with some heavy objects on each side so it does not move unintentionally. Using a square or something else that will sit perpendicular to the table top make sure the line at the bow and at the stern are both also perpendicular to the table top. A building board would be the perfect way to hold and align the hull while you do this. I sent you a PDF on building boards and I know your tools and materials are limited but the data will show you how a building board works and you can improvise a similar arrangement. Hope this helps. Kurt
  10. kurtvd19
    Your build log should go in the Kit Model Builds section rather than in the Scratch Build section - other wise I agree with Cathead and look forward to following your project. Kurt
  11. kurtvd19
    I didn't know it was a plastic hull. I think you need to figure out a way to get the chain parts off the hull. Supposedly resistance soldering can be done on HO train rail ends with plastic ties w/o damage to the ties but I wouldn't want to take a chance with a plastic hull. Kurt
  12. kurtvd19
    If you use a torch that close to the hull, PLEASE have a fire extinguisher handy. I can see needing to form the chains in place, but surely you can remove them to do the soldering. One thing that can work is resistance soldering - a thin insulator between the chain and the hull would be adequate to protect the hull from the heat. Resistance soldering gets the metal between the electrodes hot extremely quickly and the electrodes act as heat sinks with the power off. My torch is growing cob webs since I started using a resistance soldering unit again. Had used a home made one 20 years ago but when my buddy moved we flipped and he got to take it with him. Stay Brite - a silver bearing solder strong enough for chain plates, etc works good with a resistance soldering unit. Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    Mark: You can include the ships boats in the main build log. You are displaying the ships boats off the model but most builds include the ships boats as part of the build and not done in separate logs. If you include similar wording as the undelined wording noting that the ships boats are included - HMS Tremendous with Ships Boats - it covers the whole project. You can also do separate build logs but I think those following the project would want to go to only one log to follow your progress. Really it's your choice. Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    Elijah: Sal had real good advice to plan ahead. I always recommend a careful reading of the instructions before you start anything and then to keep looking ahead for things that might be better done a bit sooner. As an example, some part installed at step 5 might be in the way of step 7 so look ahead to see that you will have access for step 7. Glad to see you have a good start. Kurt
  15. kurtvd19
    Bill: Check the NRG's Resources lists for model clubs in NJ Kurt http://www.thenrg.org/modeling-clubs.php
  16. kurtvd19
    Chris: Use an index card or anything of similar size and a piece of double side tape. Poke a hole through the tape and card. Insert the end of the line through the hole, sticking the line down to the card as shown and wind the coil pressing the line down onto the tape. When the coil is the size you want, stop coiling and "paint" the rope coil with diluted white glue. Let it dry and remove from the card/tape. You can make multiple coils at the same time by using additional strips of tape. Kurt
  17. kurtvd19
    Geoff: Nice work. For the next Ships on Deck (January - December's strictly party) bring some of these photos on a flash drive so the rest of the club can see your work. Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    Cathead: Great work. Between your build and Glenn's I spend too much time admiring your work - need to get some time in on my projects but you guys are distracting me. Keep it up! Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    Cathead, you guessed right. Click on the link below to see Glenn's work. Glen talked at the 2014 NRG Conference in St. Louis on this wreck and their work. Kurt http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/
  20. kurtvd19
    I agree that after several kits one has less need for good instructions. This is why I encourage new modelers here to stick to the US manufactured kits for several builds before they turn to the Italian stuff where the instructions are inadequate at best. With a couple of builds under one's belt there is a much better chance of being able to make sense of the very poorly written/translated instruction in those kits. But, this is a newer modeler asking for advice who doesn't have the experience that will enable him to just use the plans and/or photos. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    Too bad Midwest has stopped production of their kits - I recommended them to beginners all the time because of the instructions. Bluejackets instructions are very good - and if you find an error (as I did) they correct the error in future printings - that's true customer service. The newer Model Shipway kits have very good instructions. That said, almost any kit can be found with something lacking in the instructions. But that's what MSW is for - ask if you are not sure as it is easier to ask here than undo glue of remake a part. The Italian kit instructions are horrible. I watched the guy at Mamoli in Milan who was doing the English instructions for a kit look up each word in an Italian to English Dictionary and write it down. I had just been introduced to him via a translator as he spoke NO English and I spoke no Italian, but then I wasn't doing a translation! Mantua's are not much better in my opinion but a couple of the people there did speak enough English that we didn't need a translator. Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    Les: Look into the Weller model WLC100. It is adjustable and the actual pencil iron is replaceable as well as the tips. I purchased the WLC100 a year ago and use it a lot. Check out this link to Paul Budzik's video on soldering. The unit he uses is very expensive commercial version similar to the WLC100. http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Soldering/soldering.html Kurt
  23. kurtvd19
    Les: Check out the video by Paul Budzik on soldering techniques. I have done a lot of silver soldering but hadn't done much with photo etch and a soldering iron (except electrical connections for R/C boats) and his video helped a lot - so did getting a good adjustable soldering iron similar to the one he uses but a few steps down in $$ - a Weller WC100. Kurt http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Soldering/soldering.html
  24. kurtvd19
    Ken: I am on board for this build too. Your first was so good this one should be something special. Kurt
  25. kurtvd19
    Gerald: While there isn't a specific heading for steel ships the build log of your model would be of great interest to a lot of us. Don't worry about leaving out tools as there will be a lot of interest in them too. Your work will be followed when you post it. I have been checking your web site ever since you asked about the bilge pumps. Kurt

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