kurtvd19

I use Westley's Bleche-Wite (yes that's the correct spelling) meant for cleaning car tires.  It's safe for the styrene - and it's not as hazardous as oven cleaner - and can go down the drain OK.
Kurt

Here is what was done to my Ryobi to solve the problem - and it is adaptable to any scroll saw.  A piece of plexiglass was cut to size (effectively enlarged the table size) and a small clearance hole was made in the center for the blade.  It is permanently mounted - but removable - with flat head machine screws.  One might have to tap the saw's table top but as most are aluminum this isn't a big problem - or the plexiglass can be attached with double sided tape.  The protective paper was left on the underside of the plexiglass to brighten up the top and provide contrast to the piece being cut.  The plexiglass is a very smooth surface and cuts down on resistance to moving the subject.

The series is going to go to 6 parts.  Just started the rigging in Part 5 - due to be submitted very soon.
 
I sort of worked myself into the proverbial corner - the pieces that hold the gun trunnions onto the carriages are a thin soft white metal and I didn't have much confidence in them holding the guns in place with just the kit designed pin and hoop so I glued them in place with C/A.  And then I realized that it is best to remove the gun barrels after installing and rigging the guns while the rest of the build goes on (and mentioned in the instructions).  So I resorted to getting the guns in place with their rigging attached and then pulling the eyebolts attaching the rigging to the carriage and setting the guns aside until work that would interfere was done.  I would still use the C/A but not until the barrels were put back onto the guns.
 
I always urge modelers to read the instructions all the way through before starting to build - I did this - I just need to remember what I read!
 
Kurt

Here is what was done to my Ryobi to solve the problem - and it is adaptable to any scroll saw.  A piece of plexiglass was cut to size (effectively enlarged the table size) and a small clearance hole was made in the center for the blade.  It is permanently mounted - but removable - with flat head machine screws.  One might have to tap the saw's table top but as most are aluminum this isn't a big problem - or the plexiglass can be attached with double sided tape.  The protective paper was left on the underside of the plexiglass to brighten up the top and provide contrast to the piece being cut.  The plexiglass is a very smooth surface and cuts down on resistance to moving the subject.

Here is what was done to my Ryobi to solve the problem - and it is adaptable to any scroll saw.  A piece of plexiglass was cut to size (effectively enlarged the table size) and a small clearance hole was made in the center for the blade.  It is permanently mounted - but removable - with flat head machine screws.  One might have to tap the saw's table top but as most are aluminum this isn't a big problem - or the plexiglass can be attached with double sided tape.  The protective paper was left on the underside of the plexiglass to brighten up the top and provide contrast to the piece being cut.  The plexiglass is a very smooth surface and cuts down on resistance to moving the subject.

Here is what was done to my Ryobi to solve the problem - and it is adaptable to any scroll saw.  A piece of plexiglass was cut to size (effectively enlarged the table size) and a small clearance hole was made in the center for the blade.  It is permanently mounted - but removable - with flat head machine screws.  One might have to tap the saw's table top but as most are aluminum this isn't a big problem - or the plexiglass can be attached with double sided tape.  The protective paper was left on the underside of the plexiglass to brighten up the top and provide contrast to the piece being cut.  The plexiglass is a very smooth surface and cuts down on resistance to moving the subject.

Here is what was done to my Ryobi to solve the problem - and it is adaptable to any scroll saw.  A piece of plexiglass was cut to size (effectively enlarged the table size) and a small clearance hole was made in the center for the blade.  It is permanently mounted - but removable - with flat head machine screws.  One might have to tap the saw's table top but as most are aluminum this isn't a big problem - or the plexiglass can be attached with double sided tape.  The protective paper was left on the underside of the plexiglass to brighten up the top and provide contrast to the piece being cut.  The plexiglass is a very smooth surface and cuts down on resistance to moving the subject.

Here is what was done to my Ryobi to solve the problem - and it is adaptable to any scroll saw.  A piece of plexiglass was cut to size (effectively enlarged the table size) and a small clearance hole was made in the center for the blade.  It is permanently mounted - but removable - with flat head machine screws.  One might have to tap the saw's table top but as most are aluminum this isn't a big problem - or the plexiglass can be attached with double sided tape.  The protective paper was left on the underside of the plexiglass to brighten up the top and provide contrast to the piece being cut.  The plexiglass is a very smooth surface and cuts down on resistance to moving the subject.

Here is what was done to my Ryobi to solve the problem - and it is adaptable to any scroll saw.  A piece of plexiglass was cut to size (effectively enlarged the table size) and a small clearance hole was made in the center for the blade.  It is permanently mounted - but removable - with flat head machine screws.  One might have to tap the saw's table top but as most are aluminum this isn't a big problem - or the plexiglass can be attached with double sided tape.  The protective paper was left on the underside of the plexiglass to brighten up the top and provide contrast to the piece being cut.  The plexiglass is a very smooth surface and cuts down on resistance to moving the subject.

Ahoy:
I have told many of my fellow club members about the Book Collector program I use to keep track of my library on my desktop.  They are having a sale that makes it very affordable.  I have no vested interest and I will not get a cent or anything if you sign up - I just wanted to let you know that if you had ever heard and thought about this program at all now would be a good time to get it.  A free download that lets you manage up to 100 books is also available and I used it to see if I liked it before buying the program several years ago.

I have the Book Collector pro version but I think the std will work for many people.  I am able to track the original purchase price of the book, if it's autographed, all the data on it - pages, volume, etc.  I purchased this originally when Mary threatened me with haunting me forever if I died w/o leaving her a list of the books and their worth if she needed to dispose of the collection.  It has saved me from purchasing additional copies of books I already had...something I know many of us have done.

Just wanted to let you know about the bargain.  The link to the web site is http://www.collectorz.com/book/
 
The link to the sale is https://www.collectorz.com/shop/sale.php?book50pro=1&inf_contact_key=1d5eb42f913e91f755c3a625085ea212f5cf974ea323afd529e10d36025a9ea8
 
My apologies if this is posted to the wrong section but it's offered for information and I have no connection except as a very pleased user.
Kurt
 

Ahoy:
I have told many of my fellow club members about the Book Collector program I use to keep track of my library on my desktop.  They are having a sale that makes it very affordable.  I have no vested interest and I will not get a cent or anything if you sign up - I just wanted to let you know that if you had ever heard and thought about this program at all now would be a good time to get it.  A free download that lets you manage up to 100 books is also available and I used it to see if I liked it before buying the program several years ago.

I have the Book Collector pro version but I think the std will work for many people.  I am able to track the original purchase price of the book, if it's autographed, all the data on it - pages, volume, etc.  I purchased this originally when Mary threatened me with haunting me forever if I died w/o leaving her a list of the books and their worth if she needed to dispose of the collection.  It has saved me from purchasing additional copies of books I already had...something I know many of us have done.

Just wanted to let you know about the bargain.  The link to the web site is http://www.collectorz.com/book/
 
The link to the sale is https://www.collectorz.com/shop/sale.php?book50pro=1&inf_contact_key=1d5eb42f913e91f755c3a625085ea212f5cf974ea323afd529e10d36025a9ea8
 
My apologies if this is posted to the wrong section but it's offered for information and I have no connection except as a very pleased user.
Kurt
 

Ahoy:
I have told many of my fellow club members about the Book Collector program I use to keep track of my library on my desktop.  They are having a sale that makes it very affordable.  I have no vested interest and I will not get a cent or anything if you sign up - I just wanted to let you know that if you had ever heard and thought about this program at all now would be a good time to get it.  A free download that lets you manage up to 100 books is also available and I used it to see if I liked it before buying the program several years ago.

I have the Book Collector pro version but I think the std will work for many people.  I am able to track the original purchase price of the book, if it's autographed, all the data on it - pages, volume, etc.  I purchased this originally when Mary threatened me with haunting me forever if I died w/o leaving her a list of the books and their worth if she needed to dispose of the collection.  It has saved me from purchasing additional copies of books I already had...something I know many of us have done.

Just wanted to let you know about the bargain.  The link to the web site is http://www.collectorz.com/book/
 
The link to the sale is https://www.collectorz.com/shop/sale.php?book50pro=1&inf_contact_key=1d5eb42f913e91f755c3a625085ea212f5cf974ea323afd529e10d36025a9ea8
 
My apologies if this is posted to the wrong section but it's offered for information and I have no connection except as a very pleased user.
Kurt
 

Ahoy:
I have told many of my fellow club members about the Book Collector program I use to keep track of my library on my desktop.  They are having a sale that makes it very affordable.  I have no vested interest and I will not get a cent or anything if you sign up - I just wanted to let you know that if you had ever heard and thought about this program at all now would be a good time to get it.  A free download that lets you manage up to 100 books is also available and I used it to see if I liked it before buying the program several years ago.

I have the Book Collector pro version but I think the std will work for many people.  I am able to track the original purchase price of the book, if it's autographed, all the data on it - pages, volume, etc.  I purchased this originally when Mary threatened me with haunting me forever if I died w/o leaving her a list of the books and their worth if she needed to dispose of the collection.  It has saved me from purchasing additional copies of books I already had...something I know many of us have done.

Just wanted to let you know about the bargain.  The link to the web site is http://www.collectorz.com/book/
 
The link to the sale is https://www.collectorz.com/shop/sale.php?book50pro=1&inf_contact_key=1d5eb42f913e91f755c3a625085ea212f5cf974ea323afd529e10d36025a9ea8
 
My apologies if this is posted to the wrong section but it's offered for information and I have no connection except as a very pleased user.
Kurt
 

Sal:
Check the drawing below.  I believe the piece you are referring to is the stock with the keep pin removed and the stock moved to the left in the photo with the stock them dropping into place alongside the shank of the anchor with the ball at the bent end of the stock keeping the stock from passing through the eye of the shank.
 
 

David:
That's exactly what I use for my airbrushing.  I originally got it for rigging - the up and down adjustability made it great for raising when I wanted to work on the deadeyes - with the chair lowered, or lowering the table and raising the chair when working on the tops.  There are medical supply businesses that rent and sell this type of equipment for in home use and they routinely dispose of stuff all the time.  When you get back home you can check this out.  I will keep my eyes open for one. 
Kurt

Bob:
The build in SiS is mine and Chuck and I have been sharing comments privately.  I decided to duplicate the replica boat at the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum and have applied a finish to the exterior and interior as the boat at the Museum has.  Chuck thought I was nuts to "weather" a boat that lasted just a few months before being sunk until I explained my reasoning.  He may be right about being nuts - I do build model boats....
Kurt

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Don:
Check out airbrushing with acrylic paints.  No odor, no hazard, soap and water clean up.  Even over-spray isn't an issue as acrylics are dry before the "dust" can hit the floor.  Even a long painting session doesn't make measurable dust and a quick sweep and it's gone, but use a spray booth of any sort with a filter on the exhaust and that's not even needed.  And a spray booth can be self made w/o the worry of an explosion proof motor as required with solvent based paints.  Simple furnace filter is adequate filter at the back side.
Kurt

Marc:
Be careful with Dullcoat.  One coat does the job.  Multiple coats don't make things duller - they actually build up making the surface smooth - and shiny.  Of course, if you use a very thin coat via the airbrush, another coat might be OK, but if you use the stuff from a rattle can stop at one coat.
Kurt

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Sorry not my parts so I can't share any secrets about them (as I didn't make them) except to say that they were done in RTV molds and are destined to be pieces in a kit.  A friend shared the photo of the initial run of parts. 
However, I can say with certainty that this quality of parts is able to be done in pewter and RTV molds as I have others on hand cast by another fiend that are just as good. 
Kurt

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt