Jump to content

Landlocked123

Gone, but not forgotten
  • Posts

    449
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Landlocked123

  1. Hi Brian,

     

    I didn't start on the road your on until way too late. Nevertheless, I've made some changes and lost 35lbs in the last 4 months! I found the trick is to incorporate the changes you want to make into your life. If you have a bad day, or week, so what? If you try for a particular diet or workout regime, it's too easy just to let it go when you weary of it. But, in my experience, generally try to make the right choices, incorporate them into your daily practice, and everything will work out. Concentrate on the process. You will make it happen.

     

    Best,

    John

     

    PS. If you have the discipline and patience to build a model the quality of your AVS, the rest should be a piece of cake.....I mean carrot

  2. Hi Ed,

     

    You've left me in my usual state of befuddlement! (Usual to me, not your instruction). I guess where I'm confused is where the beeswax mixture is applied. Is it one the first stage, after sanding, but before the acrylic? I would think the wax would interfere with adhesion of the later layers of finish?

     

    Would you please lay out the finishing process in a more linear fashion?

     

    Thanks,

    John

  3. George,

     

    I'm sure you're right re opiates, but I'm hyper-sensitive to the issue. My boss's 20 year old son overdosed on OxyContin about a year ago. He was a great, smart, and funny kid and I still miss him. He started out on the pain killers due to a football injury in High School.

     

    Best,

    John

  4. Hi Mark,

     

    I've missed you as well and pray for Janet's speedy recovery. I'm sure you know, but try to be careful if their "pain management" techniques involve a lot of opiates. They can be a lot of trouble in the long run, even the the short run for that matter. Please be careful.

     

    Warmest regards,

    John

     

    Ps. George, my wife is a lot more stoic than I......when I'm in pain, I play it up to the hilt.

  5. My preference would be for a serving machine.  The reason for this is that I already own an OSS and even though it is designed for macro-carpentry I would be hard-pressed justifying a replacement.  I guess that's the same reason I still use an ancient Dremel table saw with an Accurizer!

    Hi Tony,

     

    I also have a Dremel 580. I've tried to improve it with some after-market products from Bill on E-bay in Florida. His workmanship and customer service is outstanding. I've bought his fence, mitre gauge, slip-free belt and gears, and backing plate ( not yet installed). But the saw is still not suitable for ripping accurate timber for planking or decking. What is the Accurizer you mention? Is it still available? Would it solve my problems? At this point I think I could sell the Dremmel with the accessories and come out even. I then wouldn't be to far from buying a Byrnes saw. What do you think?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Best,

    John

  6. Hi Ed,

     

    In this and your other builds you use pins to keep things in place while gluing. Do you pre-drill the pin holes? Also, when I've tried to use pins while gluing, I've found I need to use excessive pressure to pull them out. Am I missing something? Do you then go back and fill up the holes? Thanks,

     

    Best,

    John

  7. Hi,

     

    What would you guys recommend as a very "white" wood which bends relatively well. I will soon be starting the MS New Bedford Whaleboat which I do not plan to paint. I'm looking for some contrasting woods. For the "gunwale strakes" I am planing on cherry or walnut and would like the frames to be in high contrast.

     

    Any ideas?

     

    Best,

    John

  8. Re: barely noticeable weave of Silk span :rolleyes:. It 's weave is non existent as it is a felted product :o. I made a full ship set of sails for my Rattlesnake with Silk span. :) I have a small minipractium on how I make sails which I could send to anyone by email if you send me a PM request. :D

    Hi Diwang,

     

    I'm just a novice.

     

    However, I know that Nic is a master builder with a special expertise in rigging. He also runs one of, if not the best, manufacturers of extremely high quality model ship kits in the world. Felted or not, there were about 14 people in the round table with me, and he definitely showed that there was some kind of orientation to the fibers he was using and it was a "best practice" to sandwich the sheets 90 degrees to each other.

     

    I also agree with Brian, if you have a "practicum" on sail making, why not share it with all of us?

     

    John

  9. Hi Julie,

     

    I think you might be putting the "cart before the horse" a bit.

     

    Nevertheless, at the NRG conference a couple of weeks ago I attended a fabulous sail making workshop run by Nic Damuck from BlueJacket Ship Crafters. He showed a very simple and effective way to create sails. Using Silkspan (a specialty fabric used by radio controlled airplane builders) he created very realistic sails.

     

    Silkspan is very light and somewhat translucent. It also has a barely noticeable weave. Nic drew a sail pattern on one sheet using pencil, then using watered down white glue, he sandwiched that between two more sheets with the weave at a 90 degree angles. Then, very carefully worked out any air bubbles. He then trimmed it to shape with scissors, placed it over a frame (of coat hanger wire) contoured in such a way that when the sail dried it mantained its shape.

     

    The pencil lines in between the layers gave a very realistic and subtle impression of the panels comprising a sail. To me the most important aspect was that the sails appeared to scale.

     

    Best,

    John

×
×
  • Create New...