Roger Pellett
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Everything posted by Roger Pellett
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Actually, I have never had a problem with hardware quality clear coats gumming up in rattle cans either. It’s always the pigmented stuff. Roger
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I tumbled on to the Tamiya spray can primers in our local Hobby Lobby while my wife was spending “quality time” in the next door Target Store. I first used them to prime cast metal military miniature figures. They appear be old style lacquer based coatings as once dried they can be dissolved in lacquer thinner. I like them very much. My present 1909 Great Lakes Freighter Model will be painted in common industrial colors; black, grey, red oxide, white, all of which are available as Tamiya primers. I intend to use these Tamiya primers for finish painting. I have found, that overcoating these with a light coat of Testor’s Dulcote seems to give “depth” to the finish and enhances durability on metal surfaces. I have not had good luck with hardware store rattle can paints as the nozzles gum up long before the can is empty and even switching to a fresh nozzle does not always solve the problem. I have not had this problem with either the Tamiya or Testor’s Model Master spray cans. Roger
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IMHO, If you have Floquil paints, you’re using the best. I like the Tamiya paints too. I see no reason to overcoat paints used to paint your hull. I especially would not paint polyurethane varnish over your Floquil painted hull. Floquil is known for its ability to provide excellent coverage with thin coats thanks to their finely ground pigments. Overcoating with varnish will add an unnecessary thick coat that is likely to tint your white topsides. Wooden spars were often finished bright (natural). Where mast hoops were used they could scar a painted finish. If you decide to paint them white, I wouldn’t worry about getting an exact color match. Roger
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In the real world of the sailing navies, I suspect that experienced seamen could identify most naval vessels at a glance with or without a name on the transom. The phrase, “the cut of her jib” comes to mind. In the case of pressed landlubbers, no one cared., and of course many sailors were illiterate. In the merchant navies name and port of registry painted on the stern identifies legal jurisdiction. Here on the Great Lakes, it’s always amusing to see 1000ft ore carriers that are too long to sail out out of the Lakes with Wilmington (Delaware) painted on the stern as home port. Roger
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Planking Question
Roger Pellett replied to Malazan's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
60 years or so collecting model building and maritime history books and not done yet. In 1990, I had the opportunity to include a dedicated library for them. When I’m consigned to a “luxury home for active seniors” 😠 the next owner will probably turn it into a personal gaming space. Roger
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Rotary tool recommendations, preferences
Roger Pellett replied to Steve116's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hey! If my post sounded critical of replies by Bob and Justin, I’m sorry. After all, you guys provided straight answers to the question! As self proclaimed master of thread drift I probably clouded the issue. As a matter of fact, I used my Sears rotary tool yesterday. It did a great job of cutting brass tubing to line portholes in the model that I am building. In fact, the accessories that I use by far the most with this tool are the little disposable cutting discs. Roger -
Rotary tool recommendations, preferences
Roger Pellett replied to Steve116's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Oh! Another muzzleloading rifle builder! -
Rotary tool recommendations, preferences
Roger Pellett replied to Steve116's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I offer a contrary opinion. Since I enjoy sidetracking threads, this advice is worth exactly what you paid for it. 😜 Don’t buy a rotary tool! Instead buy a decent set of needle files. These rotary tools can be too aggressive when used on fragile materials. If used with any sort of heavy tool, the mass rotating at high speed begins to take charge. If you don’t have a light touch and a sure hand, you’re likely to wind up with a picture window instead of a porthole! I have had a Sears Craftsman rotary tool that is 50 years old. It is great for use on metal but way too aggressive for use on thin wood. I recently bought a Proxxon pen sized engraver that is powered by a separate 12v power supply. With a small round point engraving tool, it works well on model scale materials. Roger -
Yes, the boat is located at the Cornwall branch of the museum. I was able to talk to the boatbuilder there as I was curious about the drawings that they used. They were unable to find any drawings specific to the Titanic’s boats. Instead, they used drawings published in a technical paper. He made me copies of the drawings. In many cases, lifeboats were considered “outfit” by the shipyards and vessel owners so were bought from specialized suppliers. This makes information hard to track down. Roger
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Very nice planking job! From your forum “handle” I can’t tell where you are located but the small craft branch of the (British) National Maritime Museum has built a full sized replica of one of these boats. I visited the museum in 2018. Until you have seen one of these it is hard to imagine just how massive that they were. In many sea stories the Captain orders “Man the Lifeboats” and it magically happens. This completely ignores the difficulty of handling a large, very heavy object on a rolling, pitching or sloping deck in often cold and wet weather. After seeing the boat, I came away thinking that the Titanic crew must have been well trained to have launched the boats before she sank. They were also fortunate that the sea was calm. Roger
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Very nice work!
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I too have Volume 1 that both of the brothers signed at the 2010 NRG Conference at Annapolis. Before spending money on the new book ai would like to know if it is an entirely new book, or an expanded version of Volume 1. Roger
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Joe, I am usually not a fan of the all natural wood approach to models of ships and boats from a relatively modern period. Unlike the 17th & 18th Century Dockyard Models, for these workboats, I think that a little paint looks better. This model is an exception! The beautiful Boxwood (?) hull and workmanship is just gorgeous. It’s a shame that we don’t know who built it. If you know a friendly ENT doctor it might be worthwhile checking it out with an Endoscope. Roger
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Joe, I have seen pictures of the centerboard leads on Chesapeake Bay craft led to the cabin top then attached to a multipart block and tackle with the fall belayed to a cleat on the cabin’s aft end. This would allow the helmsman to raise and lower the board with the rest of the crew forward handling the dredge gear. Although this is not a Bay Craft, Florida has plenty of shallow waters too. It would seem that you are faced with the dilemma that occurs in restoring a model. Do you correct the original builders mistakes. Roger
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Phil, I suggest that you build the model as two half hulls to be joined later. See: Ros Ambrisio’s Ampa Brazilian Custom Cruiser Model My Benjamin Noble Freighter Model Valeriy’s Varyag Cruiser model There are advantages to this approach: First, the flat joint between the two hulls gives you a flat datum to work from. Many model building operations benefit from the half hull segments laying flat on the table. These include squaring bulkheads. Using body plan templates to check hull contours, locating cutting out and affixing features to the hull- particularly adding the armor plating. Actually, I would add a centerline assembly incorporating the ram and propeller aperture. Since these are distinctive features that can be easily distorted by sanding, I would make them from brass. Roger
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No, Bob I’ve had a Jim Saw for many years. I kept the Preac since “it might come in handy” and did like it for some things. My current project, The Lake Freighter Benjamin Noble requires extensive metal work not the least being 8 steam deck winches. To produce these required a major upgrade of my Sherline equipment, so I just spent $$ with them. This included a rotary table. I have now decided to add an xy Base to add to my milling column to take advantage of the larger and heavier built table. Before my wife says “Enough already” I decided to get rid of some little used gear. Roger
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Shawn, OK I’ll send you a PM Roger
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Stuglo, Will send you a PM later today. Roger
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Valeriy, Wonderful work! How did you produce the gears that turn the cowl vents? Can you explain? Roger
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Dick, Very nice work and a fascinating example of experimental archeology. Having lived with this project for a while, can you give us any insight on why this ship type developed? Did any advantages become apparent? Roger
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Making sheaves for blocks and bitt pins
Roger Pellett replied to Kevin Kenny's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
As I have posted before, I have been using shellac saturated paper to simulate steel plating on the model that I am currently building. I was inspired to try this idea by Wefalk’s use of paper and paper derived materials for his beautiful small scale models. I have been surprised at how tough paper becomes when impregnated. In my case, I have enjoyed the convenience of shellac in one of the much maligned rattle cans as a quick pass with the spray can provides a sufficient coating. The result cuts cleanly with a paper cutter and scissors. A brass tubing hole saw or punch should work equally well. Roger -
Preac Saw: Gently used, not abused. This Saw was state of the art prior to the Jim Byrnes Saw. It is still used by a number of modelers on the forum to produce spectacular models. It would be a great choice for a modeler with limited space. Upgrade kits (not included here) are available to repower the saw with a larger motor. Table size: 6in X 4in Blade size 2in- 1 blade is included Motor Rating: 1/8 hp (93 watts) @ 3000RPM The saw comes with an adaptor to allow use of any blade with a 1/2in arbor Also included is a fence, miter gage, and blade height adjustment jack PRICE: $150 US Plus shipping Van Da Lay Treenail Cutter: As shown with two sizes of cutters PRICE: $50 US Postpaid to US addresses
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Wonderful work Rik! I have always wanted to own or make a small steam engine but as I do more machining of small brass ship model partsI have learned that my machine skills are nowhere near adequate for this kind of work. Roger
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From reading NRJ articles over the years, attempting to determine colors from old black and white photos is difficult if not impossible. Apparently different photo emulsions result in different shades of black and grey. I don’t claim any expertise in this area- just what I have read. Roger
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David, As my photography skills are strictly point and shoot, that possibility never occurred to me! Roger
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