aydingocer

Photos 36-38: Bulkhead#1 and Bow Frame Patterns are now ready and waiting to dry for sanding.

BUILD DAY 3 / 0.5 hour / Total: 2 hrs

Bulkhead#1 and the Bow Frame Patterns. 

Photo 33: Parts removed and sorted. 

Photo 34: Patterns 1 below are the closest to the keel and they are not supposed to be glued to the keel at this stage, where you use the keel as a reference for alignment, similar to the steps in stern patterns. First I applied the glue on the contact area to the side further from the keel in order to avoid accidental glue contact with the keel.

Photo 35: Then I decided not to take risk at all and instead of using the keel as a reference, I used some other 3mm thick mdf (in this case the build cradle) to align the spacing. It would be a bigger problem to glue the patterns to the keel by mistake at this stage.

Photos 31-32: I glued the final parts (2 x #24) on Bulkhead #13. I did this on my table after removing the bulkhead structure from the keel. I didn't want to risk them getting assembled to the keel with a glue residue. I used my UHU Hart here.

Photo 30: I noticed that the plan sheet of parts are not in 1:1 scale. The print is smaller than the actual size (the scale is not indicated). It is not a big deal since the part numbers are already printed on the parts eliminating any confusion at identifying them. I didn't check all the other plan sheets, but I am sure they'll be 1:1 scale if you need to use them as a reference for example cutting dowels for masts.

I also noticed two unidentified shark fin shape laser cut parts, which are not on the plan. Look closely between parts 10 and 12 in the photo. I wonder what they are. We'll see 🤔.

BUILD DAY 2 / 0.5 hour / Total: 1.5 hrs

Photo 21: Time to remove the keel from the 3mm MDF. Bulkhead #13 and the Bulkhead 13-1 assembly I just made will be dry fitted first and glued to each other, followed by #24 stern planking patterns. Note that nothing is glued to the keel at the moment. Keel is only used for alignment of the above mentioned parts for now.

Photos 22-23: Bulkhead #13. The "comb" like part in the middle was taped to prevent falling apart, though it is apparently just a cut out to be discarded. But I am not sure of it yet, so I keep it aside in case I have assumed wrong. 

Photos 24-25: A small mistake I noticed in the instructions telling to remove Bulkhead #13 from the 3mm MDF, while in fact it is on a 4mm MDF. Not a big deal, an easy mistake to make and to correct as well, for the online version and the future prints.

Photo 26: Smoothening the rear surface of Bulkhead 13-1 assembly ensure a flat contact surface. 

Photo 27: Bulkhead #13 dry fitted and glue applied as in the photo to fit the #13-1 assembly. Pay attention not to lay glue too close to the keel as we don't want to join them accidentally at the moment. This is also clearly written in the manual. 

Photo 28: Note how the rectangular extensions on the top of both parts align flush with each other.

Photo 29: The clamps help keep the parts in place until the glue is thoroughly dry.

Photos 15-20. Six photos showing the process of assembling the Rear Bulkhead and Stern Transom Patterns. Instructions recommend to set it aside to dry thoroughly and that's why I stop here for today.

One thing I have noticed so far is both the dimensional and vertical precision of laser cuts. By dimensional precision I mean the parts snap fit to each other perfectly without any slack. By vertical precision I mean they are cut perfectly vertical. I have seen with several other kits (from different manufacturers) where obviously the laser cutter is not calibrated properly, it cuts with a small angle. As a result of that, the two surfaces of the part have different dimensions. Though it is very small, it creates a problem in tiny parts. It also makes it difficult to assemble the parts in right angles. No such issues in this kit! 💯

BUILD DAY 1 / 1 hour (Total: 1 hr)

Construction starts today.

Photos 13-14: Building the cradle. Parts are on 3mm MDF sheet. I removed them with the x-acto knife in the picture using a few strokes on either side of the board and they come off nicely. 

For not-so-precise gluing I use the wood glue in the photo, just by directly squeezing the tube. This is ready now and it can rest aside until I need it. This is a temporary cradle to help you during the construction and can be discarded afterward. There is also a better looking perspex cradle (to be assembled) supplied for display purposes.

Photo 12: One last confirmation before I start, that I am in the valid age group 🤣. Another way of saying "Age 3 and above" by the way 😄. 

Well, that's all for now. Overall the unboxing impressions this kit is saying "I am worth for the money" and I can't wait to start, hopefully very soon!

Photos 10-11: Some wooden sheets to give you an idea of the amazing precision.

Photo 9: Plan sheets, more than 20 of them. I always like having plans by my side. No matter how detailed the photos are, there is always something you need to refer to the plans to make sure you are doing right.

Photo 8: Very good looking thick and heavy instruction manual. It is printed on thick sheets, I guess on 120gr/m2 paper, instead of your regular printer paper of 80gr/m2. The instruction manual of my recent Amati Orient Express was by far the all time best, I can say this one ranks 2nd right after that.  

Photos 6-7: Rigging and fittings in their own boxes, marked with what I bet is Chris's own handwriting.

Photo 4: Diving deeper, you find the photo etched sheets and wooden sheets, again each wrapped in soft sheet. 

Photo 5: The wooden strips are in their own plastic nylon.

Photo 3: Opening the box you immediately see how much effort Chris has given to packaging. Each group of parts is generously wrapped in soft sheet. On the top of the stack the thick instruction manual and plan sheets welcome you.

Here it finally arrived yesterday!

I want to take all the time I need with this model and make the best I can. I know this means it will sit on my table a looong time therefore I cleaned my table and moved everything  else away to dedicate it all the space it needs. 

Now some unboxing photos. I will not go through all the details, will show just enough to let you admire Chris's exceptionally well packaging.

Photo 1 : This is how it arrived via UPS. Box was fully intact, no bumps or dents or any signs of damage. The package measures ca 75x36x14cm and according to the airwaybill it weighs 7.2kgs.

Photo 2: The actual kit box is 70x31x13cm. The space in the shipment box was neatly filled with cardboard for cushion.

My recent Orient Express Sleeping Car project was a real challenge combining metal, wood, paper and electrics in the same box. Though when I was done, I thought I really missed the smell of wood.

So, when I decided to build a wooden period ship as my next project, Sphinx was an easy choice for me. I finally ordered mine in Vanguard webshop yesterday. Chris, ship it already please!! 😁. Needless to say I will share build log in this forum.

/Aydin

10 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

This is a superb model. Now, you need an engine in the scale of 1/32nd to pull it. 

 

If you can afford a very expensive SNCF Pacific 2-3-1 from LEMACO, FULGUREX or MARKLIN at 1/32nd scale, that would be perfect. Otherwise, OCRE proposes a Pacific steam engine for a few hundreds euros, that you may be able to turn into a little jewel, with your skills.

Yves

I have been seriously thinking of this OCCRE actually, I am just undecided between an HMS Sphinx or this one, as next project. I kind of missed the smell of wood :). But OCCRE is in my list! 

Figure 476 - 485: Final photos

Orient Express is finally ready.

I ordered the custom size display case from Sora Shop in Germany (sora-shop.com). Highly recommended. This one cost me around 53€ + 13€ shipment to Finland.

Thank you all for watching, following and your inspiring messages! 

Aydin.

Hi Tom!

Check my log for some hints on RC.

The RC section should start somewhere here: 

1 hour ago, Veszett Roka said:

Aahah, a BeoCenter 2300 You're a man! Listening it must be a pleasure when modeling.

Indeed!! 😃

Figures 473-475: The lighting is in place and it doesn't look bad at all!

That's all for now.
Thanks for watching!

Figures 467-472: Ceiling structure, made of carton, to be bent at the designated lines and glued to the roof structure. I had to follow a certain order as I install the leds and wiring during the construction. 

BUILD DAY 45 / 6 hrs / (TOTAL 115 hrs)

It has been a while since my last build post. I have been traveling and time to time investigating how to install lighting on the ceiling. As I wrote earlier it had to be close to original lighting with at least one per compartment, not just some spots here and there.

I also wanted to fit all the lighting elements (i.e. incl batteries, switch, wires) into the roof structure to avoid hanging of wires around and be able to remove the roof freely without any obstacles.

Here in this post I will show my ceiling structure and light installation.

Finally I was able to find led lamps, small batteries and switch with suitable specs.

LEDs: They are 12 volt and resistors already soldered on the PCB board. They are from a small supplier in UK, https://www.smallscalelights.co.uk. The owner of the webshop, Jennifer, is the same person who is actually producing most of the nice railroad lighting items. Not all the countries are available for shipment, I sent an email request and she sent my order to Finland. So, if you like something on her webshop but your country is not in the list, it may be worth sending an email to her!

Switch: Simple small size 1-pole toggle switch. 

Battery: A23 12 volt batteries. Here I installed two of them in parallel. So, still 12 volts but more power to light all 12 leds.

Figure 458: Here is a single LED. It is ready to use if you just hook it up to a 12V battery source.

Figure 459: Here I soldered them to each other in parallel to make a strip of 12 leds, with enough cable in between for installation. Test with the battery looks good.

Figure 460: These are the batteries I use.

Figures 461-464: Experimenting the installation on a scrap test piece (on the right) 

Figures 465-466: Testing the installation on the real ceiling piece. I think it looks pretty OK like this

10 minutes ago, wefalck said:

Looks really like thing - ignoring for the moment the 'brassy' appearance of the roof.

Yep, it is ready for painting in white!

BUILD DAY 44 / 2.5 hrs / (TOTAL 109 hrs)

Figures 451-457: Here is a series of photos from the roof construction. Overall it went smoothly. Once all parts glued, the next task was to do some surface finishing: remove the spikes coming out of the roof and smoothen the surface using sandpaper and file, especially to get rid of any glue residue. It was pretty much like finishing the hull planking of a ship model.

That's all for now.
Thanks for watching!