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aydingocer

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Posts posted by aydingocer

  1. Build day 43: 3 hrs / Total 94 hours

    Continued with 

    • Quarter deck roof structure 
    • Hull decorations 
      • preparation (prime, paint, seal with varnish)
      • gluing

    Photo 442: Quarter deck roof tiles, from photo etched sheet. The photo was taken after I had already started fitting the hull decoration, as seen on the right side.

    IMG_0453.jpeg.156befaec930ab41c96e8572431b1a94.jpeg

    Photo 443 : One of the longer parts. With 0.2mm thickness and even less on the engraved areas, these parts deserve replacing the knife with a new sharp blade before removing. 

    IMG_0450.jpeg.259bdff0a83c298369631ce302a9b593.jpeg

    Photo 444: Gluing in progress. 
    IMG_0451.jpeg.8b9bfb437539f82e6e1c11f8eb9cb504.jpeg

  2. Photo 439: This is the first time ever for me to do such an intricate paint job. I use 3/0 (or 000) paint brush and do it under magnifying table lamp. 

    Before that, as instructed, I rested the resin stern decoration in very hot (just boiled) water briefly (10-15 seconds) to bend it to follow the stern fascia curve.

    IMG_0439.thumb.jpeg.10fe7b4b9a153878c5c782eaac787686.jpeg

    Photo 440: Overall I am happy with the result.

    IMG_0444.jpeg.f1dd2a84fac59216e7fe58ce226aaa5c.jpeg

  3. Build day 41: 1 hr / Total 91 hours

    Football World Cup started yesterday and will certainly impact my pace :)

     

    Today I managed to glue the Quarter Gallery Rails, Quarter Gallery Upper Fretwork and paint the Stern Decoration between the games.

     

    Photo 406: Quarter Gallery Rails and Quarter Gallery Upper Fretwork. I haven't taken a photo from the back yet but two rails align nicely with those rails on the stern.

    IMG_0438.jpeg.2fd8f060cfa98eeb334789c530dcde67.jpeg

  4. Photo 403: Stern Wing Transom Rails – Left & Right, the Stern Lower Counter Rail and the Stern Upper Counter Rail. (the 4 parts in the middle of the photo)

    IMG_0431.jpeg.7970d17b9eed1702124ef9b2ff995d46.jpeg

    Photos 404-405: I have a slight gap between the stren facia and the the black part. This is from when I was installing the inner pieces. Normally it should not be there. But anyway,  now is the time to take care of that gap. I copied the contour of the upper counter rail where I had removed the part from the sheet and used a scrap part from 0.6mm wood to make a filler strip. With painting it to black, it is difficult to notice it, looks quite good.

    With the gap:
    IMG_0432.jpeg.7e03e12be3ffea191382d14bc67454a3.jpeg

    Gap filled with custom strip:
    IMG_0433.jpeg.9059e01d634a208e3d2220fbf6556b42.jpeg

  5. Build day 40: 4hrs / Total 90 hours

    I am logging two days' work today. This is build day 40.

    More stern work. Instructions recommend to use acrylic transparent varnish for gluing the window glasses (made of PVC) and for the frames instead of CA glue, to prevent fogging of the PVC windows. However I tried with scrap piece of PVC a tiny amount of CA only on the corners and didn't experience any fogging, therefore I decided to use CA. Note that use a pecision glue nozzle, which allows me to apply the glue in really small amounts.  

     

    Photo 398: Started to install windows and frames.

    IMG_0422.jpeg.fd5084a5af1b3017a52a72ed1539dd5e.jpeg

     

    Photos 399-400: At this stage you also paint the stern to its colors.

    IMG_0424.jpeg.071186579b3380859e3db568144006ca.jpeg

    IMG_0426.jpeg.011c41c8c3fe98a15396ab66f8e9abfc.jpeg
     
    Photo 401: Stern window frames also in place.

    IMG_0429.jpeg.2ed05ce63c0f9329c19187f3c291b058.jpeg

     

  6. Build day 39: 3hrs / Total 86 hours

    Photo 335 : Bow Cheeks and Hawse Bolsters. These are going to be painted in black therefore no need to remove the laser chars. 

    IMG_0390.jpeg.7d4e001a9cbbe5e03fabce0b9943840f.jpeg

     

    Photo 336: Bow cheeks in place. Before installing the Hawse Bolsters, you'll need to enlarge the two hawse holes to around 4mm diameter. Currently they are around 2mm diameter. I wonder why they were not laser cut to the correct diameter at first place. Maybe because you'll need to open up the wood behind it anyway. In the photo you see the hole on the left has been opened up, while the one on the right is in original size.

    IMG_0391.jpeg.8f92771005b739ec6f6150961df5490f.jpeg

     

    Photo 391: I used this blade for this work.

    IMG_0393.thumb.jpeg.88d57bc1890c8633fe1d879e9a264b34.jpeg

  7. Photo 332: Next, Bow Hair Brackets, Bow Lower Rail and "Ekeing Mouldinf Patterns". Took about half an hour to remove the laser char carefully from the edges. I used 400 grit sandpaper for this.
    IMG_0382.jpeg.938e631cf1330911d45b007ea04b2822.jpeg 

     

    Photos 333-334: In the first photo below, see the Ekeing pattern, ending at the lower rail, while in the instructions (second photo) it goes all the way to the upper rail. I wonder if this is something changed since the prototype. There is also one pair of them in spare, should I cut from the spare part and amend it to the upper end so that it looks the same as in the instructions? Any suggestions?  

    IMG_0383.jpeg.a58d84eb2d418cc7b12882b3886fafe8.jpeg

    IMG_0384.jpeg.52db7ff5afa5d5016fe2850d8330686b.jpeg

  8. Photo 326: Parts for the bow section. The wings (on the right side) take some bevelling from several areas.

    IMG_0375.jpeg.7858c9e5ccecaa64f4ec424aaf46f9ee.jpeg

    Photo 327: Wings fitted to the "Gammoning knee"

    IMG_0376.jpeg.7e6d3ad803fd59bb3d3c7db094557edd.jpeg

    Photo 328: Dry fit to adjust the bow gratings

    IMG_0377.thumb.jpeg.8ac21347c9c88fc3fac14c5c43d4a720.jpeg

    Photo 329: Bow gratings glued in place. Note the wing ends visible from the sides. They will be filed flush with the grating.

    IMG_0378.jpeg.719ab7fd0b8322eb0797df887589a66c.jpeg

    Photo 330: Wings painted in black

    IMG_0379.jpeg.91b7b44c63d8a0ba3fdea22d571cb72e.jpeg

    Photo 331: Grating in place. I managed to break the inner piece while inserting the structure back in its place, hence the crack line in the middle. Not a big deal.

    IMG_0381.jpeg.abd13c272f36640403cffa2e2791a782.jpeg

  9. Build day 38: 5hrs / Total 83 hours

    Today's activity:

    - Fore-, main- and mizzen channels,
    - Bow area gratings.

     

    Photo 320: Channel parts removed from sheet and sealed with matte varnish

    IMG_0366.jpeg.6f87ae7b9c656107f7a11353c6295e22.jpeg

    Photo 321: You drill holes on the side from spots marked with laser. In these holes we insert the nail cut-off leftovers from earlier stage.

    IMG_0367.thumb.jpeg.1e321c6a47c6dc6ccc657cbbfd2ee9d7.jpeg

    Photo 322: Parts painted in black using airbrush.

    IMG_0368.jpeg.4010e5df9ac99d4e01a55d2b3ff53f16.jpeg

    Photo 323: Pin cut-offs inserted. They will help install the channels precisely in place by fitting into the ready holes on the hull.  

    IMG_0370.thumb.jpeg.fe253ae07d7c0ad751093eaf2f7a36c2.jpeg

    Photo 324: First channel in place.

    IMG_0371.jpeg.8502fa2cc55d8325ed8ddc89294451ef.jpeg

    Photos 325: All channels installed including the so called "Channel knee parts" (those L shaped parts resting on the rails and the channels)

    IMG_0374.thumb.jpeg.f149fed68295badf5804f176073c6198.jpeg

  10. Build day 37: 2hrs / Total 78 hours

    Rudder ready and installed in place. Also glued the horseshoe and fishplates in their places. I don't have a copper color so I chose a Vallejo Old Gold which was available in my paint box. It is a bit more on the red spectrum and looks good enough for copper on small surfaces such as these ones.

    Photos 318-319: Rudder, fishplate and horseshoe

    IMG_0369.thumb.jpeg.1cfc972963ae858588282852bb385a85.jpegIMG_0359.jpeg.a1d8240241fd0de4c3a7cc2be7257550.jpeg

  11. Rudder construction.

    Photo 308: Removed 3 rudder pieces. The central piece is thicker, while the two outer pieces with engraved patterns are thinner.

    IMG_0344.jpeg.113579cf6c7a6325c1bbc9ce10ab23cb.jpeg

    Photo 309: Glued together carefully ensuring that the pinholes align.

    IMG_0345.jpeg.616a8847ad669c687a8ec74086fe5615.jpeg

    Photo 310: First photo ethced work of this construction. Very delicate parts. We need PE-31 to P-35 for rudder.
    IMG_0346.jpeg.94dde02e7b1cec694dc449ff24306ff6.jpeg

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