Chuck

OK the belfry ….all the parts are laser cut and etched in boxwood. As I explain how its built refer to this photo for details. The belfry roof... The roof is laser cut in two pieces. Nothing terribly difficult about it. You could just glue the two haves together and sand it to remove the char. BUT....the goal here is to make the seam between the two halves as invisible as you can possibly make it. So before gluing it together, thoroughly clean the edges that will be glued together. Keep them flat so there will be no gaps. You may even want to scrape the char from the top surface where the seam will be. Use Tite-bond or similar glue. Dont use CA. You want to be able to position all the parts for the belfry carefully so they are lined up. With CA once it cures instantly if the two halves are not aligned....it will look awful. Then clean the char off the top and bottom of the roof. I started by using a sharp number 11 blade and scraped the bulk of it free before using sandpaper. Ten I used various grits to finish it up. But the corners where the round top meets the sides was problematic. So again I turned to my #11 blade. A new one that was very sharp. I literally shaved the corner. I sliced an microscopic layer of the charred wood in that are away to really clean it up. This alone took a full 45 minutes to one hour. I rounded off the outside edges slightly and cleaned the char from the sides. Note how clean you can get these pieces with some time and care. The uprights... Step one...For these you have a laser cut and etched center with a simulated raised panel. This piece needs to be cleaned. There is a another thin strip with two etched flutes that will be glued to the side of these pieces. So you need to clean the char from the sides of the center piece. This is so the seam will again be nearly invisible. Keep the sides flat to avoid any gaps. The two thin pieces are wider than needed so use the tite-bond to glue them on before you remove the char from the edges. They will over hang the edge of the center column on both sides so you can sand it smooth and remove the char from the edges at the same time. Just remember to try and center them so the flutes are in the center of the finished piece. Use a very fine sandpaper.....say 320 grit to finish all four sides. See above. There is one finished upright. You can also see the unbuilt parts. Step two...The top and bottom of the uprights will have a molding placed on the three sides. The inside of the belfry is flat and doesnt get a molding. This is the important part....the molding should have the corners mitered. If you dont miter the two corners, the end grain will show much darker and the profile of the fancy molding wont carry around the entire piece. So take your time here. The molding is laser cut for you. You must clean the char from the top edge of the molding before you start using it. This is the thin edge will show once glued on the upright. The molding along the bottom of the upright is wider than the molding on the top. You will more than enough to cover both uprights. Again the molding is only on three sides. Step 3...The molding is flat. But it is now after you just finished gluing it on the three sides. So the fancy part of the molding needs to be carefully tapered thinner. I mean really tin towards the edge. It will give the proper angle to the finished uprights. I hope that makes sense. Look at the photos. When you have the two columns done... The bell... Carefully sand and file all the char from the wooden piece that the bell will be glued to. Then use 1/64 x 1/32" brass strips to make the straps that are glued to it. Just cut tiny lengths like shown on the plans. The strips are not included so you will need to get some. There are 3 strips on both sides. Easy enough. Then make the handle from the same brass strip size. Bend it as shown and glue it to the top of the wooden piece. Next, remove the cheap clapper from the small bell. You wont want to keep it. Then glue the bell to the bottom of the piece. Make sure to center it. Note how the the little pegs on the side of the wooden bell stock were carefully rounded off. Drill corresponding holes on the flat sides of the belfry uprights to accept these. Dont drill all the way through. Just make little indents. Assemble the bell between the uprights and then glue the roof on top. Thats it!!! I made a long-winded explanation but its pretty easy. The most important thing is to make this a clean fitting. Clean the char. Make the seams as invisible as possible. Take your time. Fill any gaps. You can build this in 20 minutes or you can take your time and spend a nice afternoon making a really impressive fitting that will be prominent on your model. . I need feedback.... The belfry doesnt have a lot of parts. Its not hard to build at all. At least I dont think so. But instead of taking 25 minutes to assemble it. Slow down and take a several hours to "craft" it. Or is this too much? Please do provide feedback. Do you you guys prefer a simpler approach? Maybe I am making this stuff too detailed and finicky? I start to second guess if I am taking the part design too far based on how folks gush over the simpler designs of other projects which I find lacking. But I havent been getting much feedback lately. I ask only because some of the fittings we will be building soon....including the catheads and headrails....they will look fantastic but maybe it will be too much. Should I dial it back before I make these fittings too advanced? Are you guys finding this project too hard to build or too advanced... or not enjoyable to build because of it?

I could have built it in 45 minutes. But I wanted to make sure that you guys slow down. I have seen so many people rushing through the build. Some are barely cleaning the laser char and it looks awful. I am not just talking about the Winnie build. I am talking about build logs in general. As kits get more sophisticated with more laser cut parts….Instead of seeing more care, I see rushing through the steps and “assembly” like a plastic kit. Folks. are not even removing the char….they are just gluing the parts together. I think folks see my final results and dont really understand how much time I actually spend on each piece. I thought this would be an excellent opportunity to talk about that. Its why my model is taking so long to build. I could rush this model and finish it in 3 months if I wanted to. So I purposely want to mention that even though I could have assembled the belfry in 45 minutes…I chose to spend 6 hours on it. Carefully cleaning the char…and shaping the pieces for a best fit. I wanted to mention it because the areas we are modeling now will show very prominently. The belfry…the ships wheel….the binnacle….the upper capstan….etc. This will make or break how your model turns out. So I want folks to really slow down. Everyone can do it. They have the skills. But they suffer from the number one nemesis of ship modelers…..impatience. Impatience can take a model that would be a ten and quickly make it a five…and I dont understand it. Everyone needs to slooooow down. Because it shows. If I am being honest, when I look at the progress photos in a log for someone....again not just Winnie logs.....I find myself saying, "That looks pretty good but why didnt they slow down, clean the glue smears, clean the char, or fill the gaps." "Just an extra hour and that would have been excellent." So I know I have said this 1000 times but I thought this would be the proper time to to offer again some sage mentoring and advice. Force yourself to take twice as long or even three times as long to build the next chapter. Slow down and really take your time with the next two or three chapters. It will transform your model.

I bought about 200 bells for the Winnie project. The Bell will be included in chapter 9. But I dont have enough to sell for projects other than Winnie. they are cheap metal bells sold in bulk for wedding invitations and favors. They look great if you remove the clapper etc and just keep the bell part. Do a google search for “bulk gold wedding bells” etc. its amazing what you can find out there.

First crack at it....This took all day to make. The original draft actually has quite a detailed drawing of this which is a bit wider and shorter than the contemporary model depicts. Its very interesting and helpful when you find a draft like this. So I will share it with you. I will explain the step by step..

The Belfry.... A very important fitting that is often simplified on kits. Its almost always kit-like when finished. Almost always painted on kits. I think we can do better. But this will absolutely be one of those fittings you must take your time with. There are plenty of details on this tiny fitting. It is that important like the ships wheel or binnacle or capstan....these are going to show if you rush it. They will ruin a decent model for sure if done sloppy. You have to slow down and take your time. Have you ever seen a belfry on any kit that looks like this built out of the box? Even the latest so-called wonder-kits. Lets see what we can do on the Winnie.

Mission accomplished!!!! Wonderful news. Looking forward to more updates soon. Greg….no resting now…time to get in the shop.

You could end it like this if you chose to. I may in fact still do that. I may take a sharp chisel to the point and flatten it. But at some point you are going to get a point. It just depends on how severe it is. I kept going back and forth on it. But now that you started me staring at it again…I may just have to chisel the point free.

At least one would end in a point. Its possible I could have put another scarph joint there but it was a toss up.

Yes probably just a wind break. It is shown on the original draft and on a several contemporary models. Some have doors but those were not called for on the Winnie. They had doors when the riding bitts were on the lower deck. When a partition was used within the bitts as on Winnie no doors were used. I imagine it was portable and easily removed when they needed better access.

That looks great. Its amazing how much larger the rigged model is compared to when you were working on the hull. That took some getting used to.

Fcastle planking is completed. I also added the mast coat as you can see in the photo. This is also the same as the earlier ones we built. The open areas of the decking reveal plenty of the gun deck. Just remember, you can add more deck planks if you prefer. You can also plank one side completely and leave the other side just showing the deck beams and knees. Its up to you. Now its onto either the belfry rail or jump over and start working on the qdeck coamings. I havent decided yet. There is also a large knee at the bow to make. Chuck

Its all done for you….i have created templates with all of the individual planks drawn out. All of the scarf joints drawn and butt joints. Cut the template apart into i ndividual planks to test them on your model. Tweak them if they need it. When they fit….either rubber cement them onto a wood sheet or trace them. You really cant get any simpler. Its all done for you.

This is an important picture as I plank down the center. Note that the center 3 deck planks were cut using the template as a guide. These are glued in first. Then the two bitts we made are glued into position in front of and aft of the fore mast hole. It would be very difficult to cut and add those three center planks with the bitts in position already. Once they are glued into position the two remaining strakes of deck planks on each side can be completed. In the photo you can see that I have already cut and shaped the three lengths for the next strake. I will finish up the deck planking on the fcastle tomorrow. Any questions or comments. Remember that all of the planking is tapered and curved. These planks were cut from a 3/64" thick sheet of cedar. I glued the template on it and cut the next plank I needed with a sharp #11 blade. I sanded it smooth and close to the lines and tested it and retested and retested....you guys get the idea.

Just wait a few weeks and they will open up again. If not maybe other services in other countries are shipping there. Maybe send it to another kind Winnie builder in the UK who can then turn around and ship it to you from there. When they buy the next chapter they can allow your parts to piggy back to them to save on shipping.

Terrific news....that is too fine a model not to finish it. And you know where you can get spare parts if needed. Chuck

Coamings are completed on the fcastle with gratings. There is one that is for the stack which will have some cover boards. Note that this coaming sits against the one aft of it. So the aft edge doesnt have the corners rounded off. Rather than repeat the coaming making process I will just say ...dont forget to use your 3/64" thick right angle jig when making them. Also use that to round off the corners leaving a sharp edge corner where the planking will done around it. This is the exact same thing we did with the gun deck coamings. With these completed I can start planking the center strip down the fcastle. I will take some pictures of that process because we need to also glue the bitts onto the model we made in the previous chapter. The ones fore and aft of the foremast. More progress shortly but does this make sense....do you guys need any clarification as I there really is nothing different with these coamings than all the others....a 5/64 x 1/32" strip was inserted inside the coaming so we can sit the gratings and cover boards into them. Everything is laser cut. The gratings are made the same way as well.

Another inspirational update. That rigging is fantastic. Beautiful rope making.

Nicely done. Neat and tidy. Chuck

Indeed....very nice.

Actually.....as some folks progress through kits I think they end up just running through new projects with less care than their first. The worst thing any new modeler can do is fixate on making things quicker. Its not a race. I wish more beginner builders would make it a priority to get comfortable slowing down even further and learning to really up their game on craftsmanship and historical accuracy. I was just looking through a build log on a very expensive Vanguard Sphynx kit for example and the builder hasnt even bothered to sand away any laser char from the parts or carefully align those parts when gluing them on the model. Slow....steady....and deliberate is the the only way to achieve a quality result. So good on you for taking the time needed. This model in question has caused me much "wincing" on each update. This is a hobby that pays more dividends the slower and more care you put into it. You dont get any prize for finishing first.

Im eager to see more progress on this one…..Hows chapter seven coming along.

Yes excellent work with the planking indeed. Going slow and steady will always pay off as is evident with your progress. Creating a planking plan like that is always the way to go. Wonderful progress.

Just remember that some of you guys skipping ahead are missing a few details and making some oversights which will eventually be written up in the chapter. I have seen quite a few on the logs of folks who have skipped ahead and missed stuff on previous chapters. I cant blame you guys about the age thing and wanting to run through the project quickly but just be aware.....you may be backtracking a bit, or at least leaving off a few parts etc. For example. On the cat tails. There should be a small triangular piece that will help sell the illusion of the catheads being created in one piece. Most of the guys who have planked already, missed that. Among a few other things. I know you guys are eager but I cant rush through the next chapter. It will be ready soon enough. I have seen others on previous chapters really paint themselves into a corner. We are almost at the end.....nothing worse than tripping on the way to the finish line. No disrespect meant...just a friendly suggestion. Another suggestion, maybe spend the time while waiting for chapter 9 by creating a wonderful stand and or case for your model.

Nicely done.

Christian…hows it going on the Winnie? You started off like gangbusters. Any progress?