Chuck

Absolutely its OK...please start one.

Yes but I have no idea when I will find the time.

Maybe but if too small it would be impossible to keep the sheave holes clear of resin. So I doubt these could be printed as small as some folks can imagine. So its not possible at really small sizes. chuck

Really small sister blocks...3/32". Now for some open hearts.

That looks splendid!!!

Eventually yes...but life has a funny way of taking turns. Work will be continuous of course but on what all depends on what is going on. For example...I have the Hudson River sloop to get done first as it will be for a museum on the Hudson River. But Speedwell must be finished first and of course....and turning to 3D printing because making from wood by hand or CNC is too time consuming and expensive these days. Things just seem to come up and change the schedule. Chuck

Yes I plan on making guns of all sizes. I just have to get through these blocks first. I am using an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra Chuck

Closed hearts now in stock. Sister blocks also starting to appear in my store. When I list them as 3/16" sister block it means there are two 3/16" single blocks in this sister block. I will be making all of the usual sizes. Two 3/32" single block sisters etc.

Well Done...yes its a challenge. But as you said, all of those other kits really dont do this area of the ship justice. That can clearly be seen with your Winnie. Well worth the effort. I suspect you wont be looking at other headrails on future kits you build the same way again.

Lovely lovely planking. Chuck

Just lovely work. Very clean. This stuff is fiddly and there are a ton of parts. Your care with each part is evident.

Still on a short break from blocks. But I will be back on them this weekend if all goes to plan. This week I am working on a side project while also helping my son move out to his new place. I am officially an "empty-nester" now. So nice although I hear they always come back for one reason or another. Anyway, this project involves learning to make some cannon with the 3d printer. Not difficult by any stretch but there is still a learning curve. How to set the supports and what angles for the cannon are best for the optimal surface quality etc. So after many tests using a wide variety of resins and mixing colors...I have settled on how I will proceed. So all in all a very worthwhile several days as I will be making cannon available that I will be making in house. These tests are of a French style cannon after Boudriot. I am quite sure folks will eventually have a need for these as well as the typical English Fredrick and Armstrong cannon as well. Here are the results...for color and texture. These are 2.15" long and 12 pounders at 1:48 scale and a larger caliber. Earlier test with capsquare which seemed like a good idea but they are just too thin and prone to breakage among other things. So these will be printed separately. Experiments are fun!!! But you can see the quality and surface ultimately achieved along with the scale difference on my Speedwell. They are a little difficult to photograph but they are not pitch black and a stark black but a very dark gray/black.

Ask a lot of questions and you will get to the answers from a whole score of folks who have finished the model or are further along. Ask them in your log....thats what this group is all about!!!

Thanks... Taking a break from the blocks...but not for too long. I am not sure if the resin will be strong enough but it was worth a test. They are absolutely fine for me but I know how some folks really pull their rigging tight. Too tight. They are about as strong as boxwood however...but of course not as strong as brass. But they look fantastic. Properly proportioned and sized. These are 3/8" long or 18" at 1/4" scale. Which is properly scaled.

That sounds like so much fun....Enjoy the day!!!

Yes i do plan on a darker color. But first…like you said, there are so many types of blocks to get through first. Shoe blocks…sister blocks…jeer blocks…ugh. These will take a little bit. Once done…i will start all over in a darker color.

Thank you for saying. Its just too much to continue making them by hand out of real boxwood. This is also much less expensive for you guys and offers more possibilities. For example...clue blocks are now in stock with more sizes tomorrow. Its almost impossible to make these any other way which is why you just dont see them available.

No at this point I dont think so. I am going to only sell the 3d printed blocks

Nicely done

Thank You... And by the way guys. These 3D printed blocks are pre-dyed and with a matte finish raw when you get them. They are great right out of the bag. BUT...if you really want to make them pop...and give them an even richer color and real wood finish/appearance...apply a coat of Minwax wipe-on-poly or sanding sealer. You will truly be amazed at how incredible they look. Use a satin finish or Matte finish. That is the real secret!!! Shhh!!! don't tell anyone. Treat them like wood and you will be a believer and convert. As I make each batch of these I apply some WOP to a small number of them and put them in these clear plastic bags. I then toss them on the model and do this as my QC color/texture test to see how well they look like wood and if I can even tell the difference. You guys can be the judge....try it.

Fiddle blocks underway...

Nicely done...the fun stuff!!!

Lovely work on a tricky part of the model.

I can send another. Just PM me your address info. Chuck

This was Noted earlier and in the monograph. Note: Those building from the laser cut parts, there are two frame parts mislabeled on sheet “M”. The two frame parts etched as “Af” are actually supposed to be parts “10a” Please correct these parts on your sheet before you begin building. Only the first 12 kits are mislabeled. You will see two sets of AF parts with one mislabeled. The correct AF parts are on sheet "N".