Chuck

Al
 
You can use the plans and use CNC to cut out the parts.   As long as they are for your own personal use on this project then feel free to use any method to cut out the parts.  As the hobby matures,  folks are starting to use new tools and technology.   Who are we to stand in the way.  I happen to prefer a sharp chisel or a scroll saw but other now find CAD and CNC or even laser cutting just as much a part of the process.   Its no different than someone using a Sherline Mill or Lathe vs.  a jewelers saw and chisel.   
 
The project is an introduction to scratch building and scratch building techniques.  CNC is just one of those techniques that are newer.  CAD and CNC are fast becoming a fun part of this hobby for lots of people.  They should be made to  feel welcome here.  So again I will welcome you to the group and forum.
 
Build away and enjoy the project.
 
The only disclaimer is that it be for your own personal use and you cant distribute cut parts to other builders.   I will enjoy watching you progress and dont hesitate to ask me any questions.  You have the complete blessing and authority from ADMIN and Owner alike.
 
Chuck

This area is intended for your build logs of any scratch-built models you are working.  Whether they are wood, plastic, card, or RC kits.  This is the place where you can document your step-by-step progress.  Post images of your work and share your techniques and ideas with your fellow Model Ship World members.
 
How to set up your log?
 
Create a new topic for each individual model you are working on.  As you make more progress on it,  reply within that topic to post updates on it.  Please keep all such posts on topic with regard to the log you are working on and all replies within your one log.  Do not create another topic each time you want to make an update.  If you are only posting images of your completed model...please do so in the gallery.  This forum is for works in progress so we can follow along with your step-by-step explanations.
 
How to Name your build log?
 
We have a "Build Log Naming Convention" to enable the Search Engine to sort them Alphabetically by "Ship's Name" and/or "Builder's Name".
 
We urge you to follow the guidelines below to make this work properly. If you don't, a Moderator will do it for you anyway - so you may as well get it right first time and save us the trouble.
 
This is how your Build Log Title must be set up for Static Wooden Ships :
 
HMS Victory by Fred Bloggs - Scale 1: 75 - 1805 as she appeared after Trafalger - First wooden ship build
 
The first section in RED is MANDATORY and must be done EXACTLY as shown to enable correct Sorting by the Search facility. Note there are SPACES either side of the dash following your Username.
 
Check other Build Logs for an existing one to see whether the "HMS" (or other prefix) is used before the Ship's Name.
 
DO NOT Re-Title the RED section if it has been done by a Moderator.
 
The second section in GREEN is OPTIONAL - you may add any further information you like. There is a much larger Character Limit than previously - 150 characters compared to the old one of about 40.
 
(Note that the colors above are only for this demonstration - you can't Format a Title like you can with other Text)
 
For Plastic, Card, Ships in Bottles and Radio Controlled the following (in PURPLE) will need to be added :
 
USS New Jersey by giblets - PLASTIC - Superdetailed with PE
 
HMAS Sydney by ship ahoy - CARD - 1: 100
 
HMS Victory by Simmo - BOTTLE - 1/700 scale
 
Vosper PT Boat by whereami - RADIO - A nice model to build
 
Instructions on how to use the Search to find a Build Log list of the Ship you are looking for are in a pinned Topic in "Questions/instructions on how to use and post to this forum/Site Problems or suggestions".

The bulk of the heavy lifting on the stern and quarter galleries has been completed.  Here are a few different angles:
 

 
The photo etched garlands and metal castings were finished with Model Master 'Wood' color (never claimed to have much imagination) then given a coat of clear flat acrylic.  We've already discussed the glazing.
 

 

 

 
And now for the classic CONFEDERACY shot: 
 

 
Have a few things to add to complete the stern.  Neptune (he's at about 11 o'clock) needs his Trident, the gun ports need hinges, eyebolts and lanyards and there's a little touching up to carry out (one or 2 stern lights needs 'caulking').  That will all wait until I get the rudder and it's fittings mounted.
 
I have to fess up and admit I didn't think I'd get it to come out as well as it did.  But thanks to Chuck's design and a little care with all the alignment going back to the stern framing I feel pretty good about the way she looks at this point.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Dont be afraid to sand the heck out of it.   You can sand all of that off and restain it.   The planks are thick enough.   Try t again but make sure you use a mixture of more natural stain vs golden oak.  I would start with something like a 20 % stain mixture to 80% natural.   See what happens.    You can remove that stained layer if you just sand it off.   Then sand it with a very fine 400 - 600 wet dry paper.   Then apply the stain mixture.
 
Chuck

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Progress
1.Bowfillers

2.Stern - I decided to complete this before fairing the hull, but am I going to pay for this later?

3.Lintels and sills going in

4.Checking the alignment against the future window placement

5.Fairing the hull on my fairing station

6.Lower decks are going in - the pencil line for caulking

 
Last Day of Summer here - could this mean more modelling time?
 

Never a kit...just the plans and book.  It will be a while to Seawatch Books dismay.   But they will publish a book with plans.  I will supply some materials and laser cut parts,  but not a kit.
 
Chuck

I'm still working and not just daydreaming about my next project.  Chesstree installed - bit of glare as the tung oil dries - hoping to tackle the fenders and ladders next

Never a kit...just the plans and book.  It will be a while to Seawatch Books dismay.   But they will publish a book with plans.  I will supply some materials and laser cut parts,  but not a kit.
 
Chuck

Al
 
You can use the plans and use CNC to cut out the parts.   As long as they are for your own personal use on this project then feel free to use any method to cut out the parts.  As the hobby matures,  folks are starting to use new tools and technology.   Who are we to stand in the way.  I happen to prefer a sharp chisel or a scroll saw but other now find CAD and CNC or even laser cutting just as much a part of the process.   Its no different than someone using a Sherline Mill or Lathe vs.  a jewelers saw and chisel.   
 
The project is an introduction to scratch building and scratch building techniques.  CNC is just one of those techniques that are newer.  CAD and CNC are fast becoming a fun part of this hobby for lots of people.  They should be made to  feel welcome here.  So again I will welcome you to the group and forum.
 
Build away and enjoy the project.
 
The only disclaimer is that it be for your own personal use and you cant distribute cut parts to other builders.   I will enjoy watching you progress and dont hesitate to ask me any questions.  You have the complete blessing and authority from ADMIN and Owner alike.
 
Chuck

Al
 
You can use the plans and use CNC to cut out the parts.   As long as they are for your own personal use on this project then feel free to use any method to cut out the parts.  As the hobby matures,  folks are starting to use new tools and technology.   Who are we to stand in the way.  I happen to prefer a sharp chisel or a scroll saw but other now find CAD and CNC or even laser cutting just as much a part of the process.   Its no different than someone using a Sherline Mill or Lathe vs.  a jewelers saw and chisel.   
 
The project is an introduction to scratch building and scratch building techniques.  CNC is just one of those techniques that are newer.  CAD and CNC are fast becoming a fun part of this hobby for lots of people.  They should be made to  feel welcome here.  So again I will welcome you to the group and forum.
 
Build away and enjoy the project.
 
The only disclaimer is that it be for your own personal use and you cant distribute cut parts to other builders.   I will enjoy watching you progress and dont hesitate to ask me any questions.  You have the complete blessing and authority from ADMIN and Owner alike.
 
Chuck

Al
 
You can use the plans and use CNC to cut out the parts.   As long as they are for your own personal use on this project then feel free to use any method to cut out the parts.  As the hobby matures,  folks are starting to use new tools and technology.   Who are we to stand in the way.  I happen to prefer a sharp chisel or a scroll saw but other now find CAD and CNC or even laser cutting just as much a part of the process.   Its no different than someone using a Sherline Mill or Lathe vs.  a jewelers saw and chisel.   
 
The project is an introduction to scratch building and scratch building techniques.  CNC is just one of those techniques that are newer.  CAD and CNC are fast becoming a fun part of this hobby for lots of people.  They should be made to  feel welcome here.  So again I will welcome you to the group and forum.
 
Build away and enjoy the project.
 
The only disclaimer is that it be for your own personal use and you cant distribute cut parts to other builders.   I will enjoy watching you progress and dont hesitate to ask me any questions.  You have the complete blessing and authority from ADMIN and Owner alike.
 
Chuck

Hi Chuck S.
I'm no chemist but I don't believe the stuff I use is water based. It's Elmer's Craft Bond
Rubber Cement . It also has a warning that it is flammable and has a smell like contact
cement. Like any liquid that you put on paper it could cause distortion.  When I place
the paper on the wood I try to lay it as gently as possible and not to pull or stretch it.
If I have doubts I'll closely compare it to the plans. So far no issues for me doing it this way.
 
Well all of the bulkheads and braces have been glued in place, and it is very solid. I won't
have to worry while fairing the main part of the hull. As I move up to the tops of the
bulkheads especially the longer ones I may use some bracing on them. I'll have to see
what's what when I get there.
 

 

Never a kit...just the plans and book.  It will be a while to Seawatch Books dismay.   But they will publish a book with plans.  I will supply some materials and laser cut parts,  but not a kit.
 
Chuck

Never a kit...just the plans and book.  It will be a while to Seawatch Books dismay.   But they will publish a book with plans.  I will supply some materials and laser cut parts,  but not a kit.
 
Chuck

Yupp....you are correct.  There is one for every station line.  Four times as many in a typical kit.  It will make framing the gunports easier as well.
 
Chuck

Yupp....you are correct.  There is one for every station line.  Four times as many in a typical kit.  It will make framing the gunports easier as well.
 
Chuck

Hi, and thank you Pat!
 
a small update from the yard. I'm working on hinges and handles. Hinges are from black paper, rubbed with pensil to recieve metal look. Handles turned from brass nail. Now the photos:
 

 

 

 
Alex

Thanks Nils
 
Build Update
 
Finished adding associated material to Crossjack Yard and Mizzen Mast.  Deviations from plans included: didn't form center section of yard into 16 sections (just left round), moved Topping Lifts and lashed around masthead (plans eyelet just below mizzen top), Brace Pendants lashed to yard (plans hanging down), truss pendants used thimbles same as fore/main (plans just wrapped around),  added pin rail around mizzenmast (this will be used for belaying: truss pendants, couple halyards, lifts.  Footropes to be formed later.  Using several sources for reference which sometimes is subjective.  Just trying to make best choice for the build.  Adds enjoyable frustration at times, but just a hobby.
 
Mizzen Mast pintail shows closeup of Chucks rope, nice isn't it.
 
Next glueing in all three masts and starting standing rigging.
 
Until next time.
 
Take care and happy modeling,
Len

Minor update. 
 
I've installed the gunport sills on either side and consequently faired the outside of the bullwarks much more thoroughly, which now results in the framing templates to fall very neatly into place with only very minor misalignment. Very happy about that. I'll continue working on the port frames and make an update post once completed in the next few days or so.
 
Kind regards,
 
Martijn.

Looking great...certainly take your time with that thinning down.  That is an important step.  Nothing worse than a very thick transom.    Try and get into those nooks and crannies.  It will pay huge dividends as far as the final model is concerned.   Take your time.
 
Chuck

Finished thinning down the bulkheads.  I feel that I am working with an egg shell as the hull is very light.
 

Just a small update.
 
The upper counter has been planked and the transom painted black.  Scribed moldings were made and added to the transom.
 

 
In addition, the bases for the QG were mounted, painted and moldings added:
 

 

 
I've worked on the white metal castings that go below the stern galleries getting them to sit properly.  I'll cover this when I get to mounting them.
 
Now it's time to thin the bulwarks from the inside.  Quite a bit needs to be removed and, since I don't relish this task, I'll be taking my time over the next few days. 
 
 

Wonderful work.  Its really coming together.
 
Chuck

Wonderful work.  Its really coming together.
 
Chuck