Chuck

Completed the rudder today.   As you see,  I created an alternative for fabricating metal gudgeons and pintels.  I dont have the tools to solder brass versions and I hate working in metal.   So I made mine from wood.  I also made a version using laserboard for the straps.  It worked just as well.  These are very sturdy rudder hinges. 
 

 

 
They are three pieces.  All laser cut.  The center is sanded to the width of the stern post and rudder.  Then the straps are added after being cut to length.  They are pre-cut with holes.  24 gauge wire was inserted into those holes after drilling them a bit deeper into the rudder.  Then the wire was pushed into the holes and snipped off.  It was snipped off so the end would stand proud of the straps by just a hair simulating the bolts.   These laser cut "cheat hinges" did a great job in my opinion and they are so easy to work with.  The straps are a bit thick originally but after gluing them on the rudder and hull they are sanded down to a really thin profile.  Then they are painted black after the wire is inserted into all of the holes.
 
For the "hinge pin"  a small length of 22 gauge wire was used.  It was glued into the hole in the center section of this mini-kit.  As a tip for those who will start fabricating theirs out of wood....paint the edges of the straps black ahead of time and you will have a nice neat edge.  You can see the ones on my hull which havent been completed yet.  I still have to add the simulated bolts with wire.   They are unpainted.   Once this is done I will create the tiller.
 

 
AND YES...before anyone asks these are now available as a stock item .   Not just for cheerful as they worked out so well I am sure others will want them.  The straps and center are 1/16" wide which is a typical size and could be used for many other models.  Both laserboard and boxwood straps will be included in each package.  Choose whatever you prefer.  Why havent these ever been made before???   They are wonderful if I dont mind saying myself.  And they are so simple.  Click Here to see them.
 

Completed the rudder today.   As you see,  I created an alternative for fabricating metal gudgeons and pintels.  I dont have the tools to solder brass versions and I hate working in metal.   So I made mine from wood.  I also made a version using laserboard for the straps.  It worked just as well.  These are very sturdy rudder hinges. 
 

 

 
They are three pieces.  All laser cut.  The center is sanded to the width of the stern post and rudder.  Then the straps are added after being cut to length.  They are pre-cut with holes.  24 gauge wire was inserted into those holes after drilling them a bit deeper into the rudder.  Then the wire was pushed into the holes and snipped off.  It was snipped off so the end would stand proud of the straps by just a hair simulating the bolts.   These laser cut "cheat hinges" did a great job in my opinion and they are so easy to work with.  The straps are a bit thick originally but after gluing them on the rudder and hull they are sanded down to a really thin profile.  Then they are painted black after the wire is inserted into all of the holes.
 
For the "hinge pin"  a small length of 22 gauge wire was used.  It was glued into the hole in the center section of this mini-kit.  As a tip for those who will start fabricating theirs out of wood....paint the edges of the straps black ahead of time and you will have a nice neat edge.  You can see the ones on my hull which havent been completed yet.  I still have to add the simulated bolts with wire.   They are unpainted.   Once this is done I will create the tiller.
 

 
AND YES...before anyone asks these are now available as a stock item .   Not just for cheerful as they worked out so well I am sure others will want them.  The straps and center are 1/16" wide which is a typical size and could be used for many other models.  Both laserboard and boxwood straps will be included in each package.  Choose whatever you prefer.  Why havent these ever been made before???   They are wonderful if I dont mind saying myself.  And they are so simple.  Click Here to see them.
 

Thank You.....I just finished making the winch.  This is a pretty straight forward fitting.  The pieces were cut taking the measurements from the plans.  Nothing was to difficult but care was taken to make the winch handles look more attractive than just using a piece of black wire.  So I cut some micro tube to slip over the end of the handle to give it some dimension.   
 
This is the last deck fitting before the rigging prep starts.  I will finish the rudder and tiller first however.
 
Then there is the bowsprit bitts up front which also contain the pawl for the windlass.   But I would like to have the bowsprit made while making that.   Once thats finished I will add the two long guns at the bow......
 
That is everything that is left before the rigging begins so I feel like I am getting into the home-stretch.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Very nicely done....   Jeez even you are catching up with me now Rusty.....work more on the house...LOL

Completed the rudder today.   As you see,  I created an alternative for fabricating metal gudgeons and pintels.  I dont have the tools to solder brass versions and I hate working in metal.   So I made mine from wood.  I also made a version using laserboard for the straps.  It worked just as well.  These are very sturdy rudder hinges. 
 

 

 
They are three pieces.  All laser cut.  The center is sanded to the width of the stern post and rudder.  Then the straps are added after being cut to length.  They are pre-cut with holes.  24 gauge wire was inserted into those holes after drilling them a bit deeper into the rudder.  Then the wire was pushed into the holes and snipped off.  It was snipped off so the end would stand proud of the straps by just a hair simulating the bolts.   These laser cut "cheat hinges" did a great job in my opinion and they are so easy to work with.  The straps are a bit thick originally but after gluing them on the rudder and hull they are sanded down to a really thin profile.  Then they are painted black after the wire is inserted into all of the holes.
 
For the "hinge pin"  a small length of 22 gauge wire was used.  It was glued into the hole in the center section of this mini-kit.  As a tip for those who will start fabricating theirs out of wood....paint the edges of the straps black ahead of time and you will have a nice neat edge.  You can see the ones on my hull which havent been completed yet.  I still have to add the simulated bolts with wire.   They are unpainted.   Once this is done I will create the tiller.
 

 
AND YES...before anyone asks these are now available as a stock item .   Not just for cheerful as they worked out so well I am sure others will want them.  The straps and center are 1/16" wide which is a typical size and could be used for many other models.  Both laserboard and boxwood straps will be included in each package.  Choose whatever you prefer.  Why havent these ever been made before???   They are wonderful if I dont mind saying myself.  And they are so simple.  Click Here to see them.
 

Thank You very much.  The pumps have been completed.   You can see that I decided to paint them red.  Most people leave them natural but I figured I would go all in with the painted look.   The same is true for the pump handles and bracket.  These were made of either wood or metal.   Because most folks leave these natural I figured I would paint them black and make them look like metal.  This is how they were treated on the contemporary model of Surly. 
 

 

 

 
 
All of the pieces were painted before assembly.  Then I used some heavy paper to make the reinforcing band.  Those who have these plans will also notice that I have only used one band.   Yet on the plans there are two.  I have once again seen so many variations of elm tree pumps I figured I would show it both ways.  Those building Cheerful can decide which they prefer.
 
1. transfer the 7/10/7 template lines to each side of the 3/16" square pump tube.  Carefully file the tube to an Octagon using the lines as a guide.  Drill and bore out the top of the tube to a depth of about 3/8".  Carefully use a bit that will leave the pump tube walls not too heavy.
 
2. File and shape the bracket for the handle.   The part that sits against the pump tube is tapered thinner so it fits on one facet of the octagon.  Use a slotting needle file 1/32" thin or less to file the slot in the top to a forked shape.  This will accept the handle.
 
3. Place a 1/16" x 1/16" strip in a dremel to round it off. Using an emery board this takes only a minute.  This will become your pump spout.  Drill a hole into the end before parting off a 5/64" long spout.  Glue it to the pump tube.  All pieces can be painted first.
 
4.  Using some card stock strips wrap it around the tube as shown on the plan to simulate the metal reinforcement band.  One ore two is fine.  The top band should be carefully placed so the notch in the bracket accepts it at the the right height on the tube. So measure its location from the plan.
 
5. Glue the bracket into position.
 
6.  Insert a length of 24 gauge black wire into the hole on the end of the handle.  Like an eyebolt.  Insert the end of this long wire into a pre-drilled hole in the bore of the pump tube.  Adjust the length of the wire until the other pivot-hole in the handle site in the bracket nicely.  The handle should be in the downward position to be correct.  
 
7.  Finally insert a small length of 28 gauge black wire into the bracket hole and through the handle to lock it in position.   Snip it off on both sides so it stand proud of the bracket's surface just a little bit. 
 

 

 
Now its time to start on the winch!!!

Thank you very much!!!
 
I have started on the pumps today.
 
Basically I started with a 3/16" square and used the 7/10/7 ratio to convert it to an octagon.   You can see how I carefully marked the blank and then filed the piece to shape.   The end was drilled out afterwards.
 

 
I also laser cut the handle from 1/64" thick boxwood.  The handle bracket was made from 3/32" thick stock.   The bracket was tapered where it attaches to the pump tube.  Then it was notched out with a fine file to make it look like a fork.  The handle will fit into this.  But first I must paint the pieces and then assemble them.  Maybe tomorrow.
 
Chuck

Thank you all very much.....got tired with the repetition of making cannon carriages today....soooo
 
 
I had prototype keel parts cut out for a while and they were staring at me.....so one project that is slowly getting started is a kit prototype for a Queen Anne style Admirals Barge or Shallop 1700ish.   I am testing some wood choices and here is a look at the keel assembly in cherry in comparison to the Cheerful for size...its 1:24 scale.
 

 

 
Now back to those carriages...sorry to digress but I had to get that out of my system ....it was bugging the heck out of me just looking at the parts sitting on the table.  
 
Chuck

Rope coils take two......I hate waiting for repair guys to show up so in the spirit of trying all things to show folks different looks.  Here are some less then perfect deck coils.   Not too much difference but maybe enough to make it presentable.  
 

The lines I have hanging are in much larger coils and may hang more naturally...I have images of hemp rope on ships looking like that.  BUT having said that...rope coils made on deck and meant to be kept neat....well that may be different and why I thought to make them tighter and more circular.
 
Take a look at this.  This is actually a training session in Maine on board a sailing ship.  I believe they may have been handled differently but I agree the old rope may have been very stiff indeed.  But who knows in the end.   The only real way to make the coils on deck more natural would be to make them very sloppy as if a drunken sailor made them.  If they coiled them like this fella it looks pretty plausible.   And pretty easy to make a good circle of coils.  I imagine the sailors got quite good at it very quickly.
 

 
vs. hanging
 

 
and my interpretation for comparison...
 

 
Chuck

Its an interesting discussion.   Well,  I think we have a winner.  Here is the model with the trucks painted red.  I do in fact like this much better than the bright trucks.   Thanks Greg!!! 
 
I know its just a matter of personal tastes but I think I will pursue this approach from now on.  I think its more pleasing and less distracting actually.  Although I will leave the black trucks to someone else to experiment with.
 
I see the bulwarks are very dusty...much touch up to do.   I will wait until after a rig these which is what I think I will do next.   It will be a nice break from building another five carriages.
 
 

 

 

 

The next step was to add the carriage bed and on top of that add the quoin.  I didnt add the quoin handle yet because I always break those.  So they will be the last bits to be completed.
 

 
In that same photo you will also see the metal work is completed.  The brackets (sides) were actually made in two pieces and held together with long bolts through both top to bottom.   Even though these are one piece the two bolts visible were simulated.   I used 28 gauge wire.  After inserting them into the holes I cut them so they stood proud of the surface.  There are the eyebolts on the aft side for the tackle.  These were made from 28 gauge wire as well.
 
On the sides of each bracket there is also a bolt through to the transom.  For this I used 24 gauge black wire.  Finally one more eyebolt was added to the side for the tackle.  I will not add the eyebolt and ring for the breech rope yet because its easier to do that while rigging the breech rope.  But I did drill the holes for them.  That is an absolute must.
 

 
Finally some images of the cannon placed on each carriage.  The trunnion cap was just made with some heavy paper painted to match th emetal.  Then I added a small length of 28 gauge wire to simulate the hinge for the trunnion cap.  I wont be adding any chains or other small details.  I dont think they look very good at this scale unless they are done perfectly.  Rather than try and become a "kitchen sink" modeler,  I prefer to simplify and concentrate on neatness and execution.  I know I wouldnt do it justice. 
 

 

 

 
Now to begin the other five carronades for the other side....YIKES 

Completed the rudder today.   As you see,  I created an alternative for fabricating metal gudgeons and pintels.  I dont have the tools to solder brass versions and I hate working in metal.   So I made mine from wood.  I also made a version using laserboard for the straps.  It worked just as well.  These are very sturdy rudder hinges. 
 

 

 
They are three pieces.  All laser cut.  The center is sanded to the width of the stern post and rudder.  Then the straps are added after being cut to length.  They are pre-cut with holes.  24 gauge wire was inserted into those holes after drilling them a bit deeper into the rudder.  Then the wire was pushed into the holes and snipped off.  It was snipped off so the end would stand proud of the straps by just a hair simulating the bolts.   These laser cut "cheat hinges" did a great job in my opinion and they are so easy to work with.  The straps are a bit thick originally but after gluing them on the rudder and hull they are sanded down to a really thin profile.  Then they are painted black after the wire is inserted into all of the holes.
 
For the "hinge pin"  a small length of 22 gauge wire was used.  It was glued into the hole in the center section of this mini-kit.  As a tip for those who will start fabricating theirs out of wood....paint the edges of the straps black ahead of time and you will have a nice neat edge.  You can see the ones on my hull which havent been completed yet.  I still have to add the simulated bolts with wire.   They are unpainted.   Once this is done I will create the tiller.
 

 
AND YES...before anyone asks these are now available as a stock item .   Not just for cheerful as they worked out so well I am sure others will want them.  The straps and center are 1/16" wide which is a typical size and could be used for many other models.  Both laserboard and boxwood straps will be included in each package.  Choose whatever you prefer.  Why havent these ever been made before???   They are wonderful if I dont mind saying myself.  And they are so simple.  Click Here to see them.
 

Today I finished up the bulwark details.  All of the cleats and the pinrails have been added.  I also made the catheads.  These warrant special note.  These were made in two pieces.  They were shaped from a 3/16" x 3/16" strip.  Care was taken to shape the inboard leg of the cathead to fit snug against the bulwarks.  It had to be shaped to fit around the waterway and spirketting.   The top portion had its two sheaves simulated in the usual manner.   
 

 
The cap rail was then notched out to accept the cathead and the two sections of the catheads were fit together ahead of time.   After the notched cap rail was ready...the two parts were tweaked until they fit well.  Only then were they glued together and painted.
 

 

 
Hopefully sometime this week I will begin putting the gun carriages together or maybe make the belaying pins.  I dont need that many belaying pins for this model so why not make them from scratch as well.
 
Chuck
 
 

Thank You....
 
Its just a matter of slowing down and taking your time.   Not rushing is a huge part of it.  I think everyone can do the same but I see so many folks running through their projects like they are in a race.  Should parts not fit correctly...throw them away and do it again.   It took me about 2 hours to paint the stern after making the seats and adding the cleats.  It took me about 1 hour to just paint one ladder after making it.  Many thin coats being careful not to get any dust on it.  Sanding carefully when imperfections and brush strokes take place.  The key in my mind is to just slow down....my best advice for any model builder.
 
Chuck
 

Making ladders now.  They are usually very annoying to make in any scale.  I quickly drafted some laser cut plans.  Makes it much easier.   I laser etched slots to take each step.  Note the angle to the completed ladder.  It follows the sheer of the deck fore and aft and therefore is askew.  Otherwise it would look funny.   These will be painted red.  
 
Chuck
 

Just a small update.  I worked on the inboard stern details.  The seats are completed.  Card templates were made first using the plans as a guide.  Then they were tweaked to get a nice tight fit with the parts.
 

 
Cleats were added...these are all laser cut Syren cleats (5, 7, and 9mm).  All that was needed to do was sand them a bit to shape and then add a piece of wire as a pin.  Then they were glued into place.  I decided to paint these bulwark red also to match the many contemporary models I have seen.
 

 
Finally....the horse was added for the boom sheet.  This was just a small piece of wire bent to shape.  Two small washers laser cut from paper were added to finish it off nicely on each end.   They were painted to look like metal.  I should have dusted the model better before taking the pics....next time 
 
I will now continue my way forward along the bulwarks adding eyebolts, cleats, ladders and pin rails.
 
Chuck

I am not sure actually...but its doubtful.  
 
Today I reached a milestone...not much of an update however...I have completed all of the outboard details.  The rudder will added a little later as I wanted to finish the inboard details at the stern including the seats first.  BUT...then I noticed that the aft-most deadeye is a bit too high.   So I will have to redo that chainplate before moving on...maybe tomorrow...Oh well!!!  I spoke too soon.  But at least I can start the inboard details as well.  The fixed block for the inhaul at the bow was also completed.
 
Chuck
 

Thank You very much  .  Just a small update as I got tired of making rope today.  I started in the chainplates and deadeyes.  They are made pretty much like the others I showed, only longer.  The deadeyes are stroped with 22 gauge black wire. I have six more to go and probably will get that done after Thanksgiving.  I wish all of you a happy and tummy stuffing turkey day.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Today I tackled the channels.  No easy way to make these.   You just have to go old school.   These are unlike the channels most have grown accustomed to.  These are much thicker (5/32") and they are not as wide.  When viewed from the side they gradually get thinner buy a little bit.  The bottom is beveled or angled so the outboard edge is just 1/8" thick.   Maybe a hair thicker.
 
Note how the usual cover or cap molding isnt shown.  Basically small notches are filed into the edge and the chainplates will be bolted to the edge.   Many cutters show this feature but there are other arrangements too.  But I figure the original draft should be followed here.  Its an interesting feature.
 
Then the profile along the edge is made old school with a round file, sanding sticks or whatever you are comfortable with.  Note how the gunport splits the channel in two lengths and the edges in the break are not profiled.
 
I had hoped to make the eyebolts and chainplates today but I dont have enough brass strip so it has been ordered.   While I wait I will continue finishing up the outboard details like the scuppers and rudder.  The channels are not glued on yet as I await arrival of more material.  They will be finished up first with eyebolts.
 
The outboard details shouldnt take very long to do.
 

 

 

 

 

To begin making the carriages,  I first removed the laser char from the mini-kit pieces.  Even just making the four remaining carriages for the port side takes considerable time.  I used a sanding stick and there are many pieces.  
 
In addition,  the outside ends of the axles were rounding off and all of the pieces were painted red ahead of time.  
 
Finally I decided to make a small jig to make assembly easier.   You can see it in the photos and its simple to make.
 
Step one was placing the axles into the jig.
 
Then the two pieces ....the transom was added atop the front axle and another strip was added across the rear axle.  Note how the front axle is shorter than the rear axle.
 

 
Step two was when I added the sides (brackets) to the carriage while they were in the jig.   The carriage was removed and a length of 24 gauge black wire was pushed through the holes in the sides of the bracket.  The carriage bed will sit on top of this eventually.  The wire is snipped off so each end stands a little proud of the surface.  
 
To finish of step two the wheels (trucks) were put into position.
 
  
 
Now to finish these four carriages off....the next steps will be shown soon.
 
Chuck

Thanks guys 
 
Greg,  that is a great place to start.  First the guns were airbrushed black using Badger Airbrush paint.   But just going with straight black is not good enough.  The guns and other metalwork needs to be different in appearance / texture than the wood elements painted black.  If for nothing else but to add some more interest.  Straight black is to harsh and leaves a lot to be desired.
 
You can go with a warm hue or a cool hue.  I decided on the warmer.  I then brushed on very sparingly some weathering powder.  The goal here isnt to make it look like a rusty heap.  Its just to change the surface appearance.  As quickly as it was applied with a soft brush it was buffed off almost entirely with the same soft brush.  It changes the color only slightly BUT it does also change the surface texture making it noticeably different than other black painted parts.  I use this technique on all of the "metal" parts on the model even if they arent made from metal.  It works quite well.  For the guns it really makes the reinforcing rings stand out as well as the other details.   But remember you have to buff it off.
 
Now I am not using these weathering powders for anything else....I have no intention of making the model look weathered.  In most cases where I see folks weathering .....it is over done and everything looks like a junk ship rusting out.  Its just too much.  But if used sparingly it can be very effective.  Just my opinion of course.
 
I use the MicraMark weathering powders and the set contains a small jar of Rusty brown and if you are going cooler you could use Grimy Gray or even a dark  blue.  All of the guns are completed with this technique below and waiting to be mounted on their carriages.   I store them like this until needed.   Now to build those carriages!!!
 

 

 
The same technique was used on the chainplates.  You can see how the powder makes the Black noticeably different than the painted wales.   Before the application it looked exactly the same.    Now its different but very subtle.  The key is NOT to over do it and get carried away.  
 

Thank you very much
 
I decided to make one carronade with all of the details.  This way I could find out what is in store for me.  Now I can more comfortably finish up the remaining 11 guns.
 
I will describe how with a step-by-step once I get started.  But for now..here is what the completed gun looks like.  I also finished making the belaying pins.  They were made from boxwood.  I dislike the brass belaying pins available because they are just the wrong proportions.  With only about 16 pins needed I decided to make my own.  If you are a heavy handed rigger....someone who likes to pull theit rigging lines super tight like a guitar string then you should probably stick to the brass.  Otherwise give this a try.
 
I just chucked up a thin boxwood strip in my dremel and went to work.  The same method was used to make the quoin handle for the carriages. Image is below.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Chuck
 
 

Had some time today to rig the carriage tackles.   I used 1/8" single blocks and .012 light brown rope.  I also used my 3mm hooks.   These were all made off the model and took some considerable time to make.   They fixed in position and the end of the tackle glue to the deck.  Then a small rope coil was glued on top of that.
 
I also took the time to experiment with a few rope coils for the pin rails.  I wanted to improve my abilities here and there is no time better than now.  With no rigging in the way I can experiment with different lengths and techniques and see how they will look.  I think these look pretty good.   I tried about a dozen different sizes and configurations.  The goal of course is to make them look somewhat natural without making my crew get in trouble for being so sloppy and undisciplined.  
 
Now to go through the whole process again on the other side.  Yikes.
 

 

The breech rope was made using a technique I saw on an actual contemporary model.  The splice for the button of the Carronade was simulated.
 
As mentioned I am using Syren .035 light brown rope.  All of my .035 size rope is four strands.   I dont think it would look as nice otherwise.  Four stranded rope just make it work nicely.   But essentially,  the entire breech rope is made to length....3" long.   (addendum) After consideration I think the breech line should be no longer than 3".  It looks a bit long in the photo. The eyebolts and rings were slipped on before the end was finished off.  You can see that in the photos.   The eyebolts were 28 gauge wire while the split rings were 24 gauge.
 

 
Then I used a sharp but wide awl to simulate the splice. It has to be large enough that the splice will fit over the button of the carronade or cannon.  In the center of the breech rope I pushed the awl through so there were two strands on top and bottom.  Hence the need for four stranded rope. Then I applied some watered down white glue and let it dry.  Once dry the simulated splice stayed to shape.
 
I have seen many real splices attempted and they just look to big and out of scale.  I couldnt pull that off convincingly. Even though this is a cheat, I think it looks better because it stays smaller.
 

 
 
I could have just gone with the usual wrapping once around the button of the carronade...but that is tough to do in my opinion.  It wont stay in place and you must use glue so it wont come undone.  This ends up pulling the finish off the barrel etc.  In the end it just looks too sloppy for me.  So I gave this a try.  No glue is needed at all.  It slips right on the button and wont come off.  This allows you more control to set the other eyes into the brackets of the carriage and then place the whole thing on deck.
 

 
Hope that makes sense.   I also stiffened the line with the watered down white glue before starting.  Let it dry.  I just find it easier to work with when its a bit stiffer.  At least with the breech rope anyway.  I started with about a 5" long piece of rope.
 
Chuck