Chuck
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Chuck reacted to kscadman in US Brig Syren by kscadman - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - first wooden ship build
To all thank you for the compliments. Am celebrating 2 years of work on here this month and I'm realizing how tedious the small bits can be, but I do like the results when finished.
Augie - you were right, the tiller rigging passes over it nicely.
Richard - I know how projects can keep a person away but I hope to see updates on your Syren - she's coming along great!
Thomas - Thanks as always!
Scott - I see your point, but I'd be more worried about having the tiller hitting me while manning the cannons if the ship went hard to port or starboard.
Chuck - Thank you - coming from the master I'm feeling good about my progress.
I've completed the steerage and tiller rigging and I'm currently doing the prep work (sanding, staining, etc.) for the fife rail, bitts & stack. Also I'm still looking for a smaller bell for the binnacle.
Richard
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Chuck reacted to Mike 41 in Washington 1776 by Mike 41 - FINISHED - 1:48 - row galley
This is a few more photos of the thick stuff being installed.
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Chuck got a reaction from mekcpa in 18th century English Longboat by Chuck - FINISHED - c.1760
Nope...much smaller. Only large enough for the .008 line to pass through. I use a #77 or # 78 drill.
Chuck
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Chuck reacted to Mike 41 in Washington 1776 by Mike 41 - FINISHED - 1:48 - row galley
This set of photos shows the crutch and thick stuff being installed.
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Chuck reacted to Rustyj in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Rustyj - 1/64 - POB - 32-Gun Frigate
Thank you for the kind words Antony.
Well I've pre fit all the bulkheads. Just some minor sanding of the slots was needed so it didn't
take as long as anticipated. Here is the first bulkhead in place. I clamp the angle piece in place
to hold the bulkhead square until the glue sets up. I do one bulkhead fore and one bulkhead
aft at a time and work my way to the center.
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Chuck reacted to kscadman in US Brig Syren by kscadman - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - first wooden ship build
Augie & Bala, thank you for the comments.
The stern is progressing. I've managed to get the stern guns made and installed. I decided to add the train tackle to the guns. I'm not sure if its appropriate based on how close it is to the tiller rigging but I like the end result. Guess I'll find out soon enough when I finish the tiller.
Richard
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Chuck reacted to Mike 41 in Washington 1776 by Mike 41 - FINISHED - 1:48 - row galley
The following set of photos show how I made the hawse pieces. I glued the hawse pieces into two blocks and roughed them out on the bandsaw and finished shaping them with a small drum sander.
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Chuck got a reaction from Mirabell61 in 18th-century Pinnace by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
Now it was time to start adding the details...I added the cockpit seat back and painted the risers. The risers are the pieces along the inside of the hull and the thwarts (seats) sit on top of them. With the seatback shaped I added the thwarts and the cockpit locker and seats. The thwarts had a beaded line scribed down both sides. this was easy to recreate. I used a sharp awl and ran it down the thwart edge with a steel ruler used as a guide.
The risers were painted first because it would have been tough to do so after the thwarts were added.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from thibaultron in 18th-century Pinnace by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
Then I added two more at the keel including the garboard strake. This left a space in between on both sides of the hull to fill in. Having these strakes added like this really firmed up the hull.
The remainder of planks were added to complete this step. I used a number two pencil to simulate the tarred seams between each plank. When the planking was completed I added the stern post and cut the keel flush to the end of it. I am just using wipe on poly for a finish.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Rustyj - 1/64 - POB - 32-Gun Frigate
Rusty...so nice to see you start on her. I am working on mine today and it will be nice to collaborate again on building. Should have more updates on the prototype real soon.
Chuck
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Chuck reacted to oldpaperone in USf Confederacy by oldpaperone - Model Shipways - now in Australia
Further progress:
1.The stem is glued to the bulkhead former
2.Keel bolts - drill/refine with a push-pin/shade with pencil/fill with wood filler/sand/ finish with wipe on poly 3.Getting ready for the frames and fillers 4.Bow fillers 5.Frame 8 being trued
6.All the frames are in Next step - fairing the hull
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Chuck got a reaction from NAZGÛL in how much rope do I need
Thank you gentlemen!!!
I will be be away next week at the NRG conference so I am afraid I probably wont be as responsive next week. I really appreciate the support and business. I am now experimenting with possible ways to make deadeyes as well. It may fail miserably but what the heck. I get all kinds of crazy ideas that pop into my head at night. Drives my wife crazy.
Chuck
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Chuck reacted to Shazmira in US Brig Syren by Shazmira - Model Shipways - 1:64
For those that were following my previous build of the Syren, here I go again. Had a bit of a snafu getting the replacement parts from ME this time, but as usual they came through and all is good.
The bulkhead former, bulkheads, and everything are not the nasty laser burnt ply of before. I am hoping this new wood will turn out to be more stable and not crumble to pieces as before. I haven't quite figured out what exactly the wood is they used for this...very light weight, large grained, and I swear it is balsa....but my mind seems to think no one would use balsa for the skeleton of a ship....but what do I know.
So first the obligatory box and contents pictures
My boxwood upgrade from Jeff at Hobby Mills
new former with bulkheads squared and glued!
So to my friends and followers, wish me luck that this third attempt truly is the charm!
AND WE ARE OFF!!!
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Chuck reacted to Marsares in US Brig Syren by Marsares - Model Shipways - 1:64
No progress yet as I decided to wait with the build until after the move as I didn't want to move a very fragile hull and potentially break it in the process. It's been very frustrating as I'm dying to get my hands on it and to start working, but we're moving this weekend so after that I can start in earnest. We'll have a very nice conservatory next to the living room, and I've already claimed part of the conservatory for my working area. Until then, this is the sorry progress that I've made: packed everything up again! :-)
Positive news though as my drawplate from Model Machines arrived as I'm planning to do some proper tree-nailing on the hull in due course. Very pleased with as it's solid quality. Anybody has any hints for using this? I've been told bamboo skewers work the best if you're aiming to use the smaller holes...?
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Chuck got a reaction from justsayrow in US Brig Syren by kscadman - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - first wooden ship build
No dont use a bigger dowel. It will look way out of scale. The opposing tensions on that dowel by the rigging will hold it in place. Wait toil you make the topgallnt masts. Talk about flimsy. You must work on the tensions to make sure the wood doesnt bend the while rigging.
Everything looks great. Fantastic job on the headrails.
Chuck
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Chuck reacted to Chuck Seiler in Gunboat PHILADELPHIA 1776 by Chuck Seiler - Scale 1:48 - from Model Shipways plans
MacGyver was unable to find matchsticks, so we used these. I was unable to find suitable bricks, so I made them from wood. (Having said that, 250 people will direct me to the bricks I needed.)
I remember having small scale individual bricks many years ago. I tried hobby stores, train scores and Google to find them. I was able to find adequate brickage from a fine company in UK at a reasonable price, but the shipping/associated cost were just too much.
I used padauk wood and stained holly.
Mr. Jefferson looks on, wondering if Mr. Franklin has that stove thing patented yet.
The hearth and first couple courses completed. This is where the cook stove sits on the PHILDELPHIA in the Smithsonian.
Here is where it sits on the plans.
The athwartship mast support is in place. What could POSSIBLY go wrong here???? Don't let the safety guys see this!!!!
I'm not sure why the PHILLY didn't burn to the waterline or explode long before the battle. This does not look like a very good place for a cook stove, but my readings indicate this IS where it was. They are able to see the charring on the underside of the mast support.
Maybe this thing will work on the 18th Century Longboat (same scale). What do you think????? Maybe I can sub-contract to Chuck P so he can provide an after market add on to the longboat kit.
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Chuck reacted to Rustyj in Bomb Vessel Granado by Rustyj - FINISHED - 1:24 - cross-section
Thanks Augie, Ben and Paddy.
Well I'm barreling down the home stretch and speaking of barreling I have mounted the barrels
to their carriages and will be putting them in place once I'm back in town.
Thanks for stopping by.
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Chuck reacted to augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Well, we've been back on course now for several days. The result is that at the 400 hour point (and 6 months on the calendar), we've completed the hull planking. I'm not completely thrilled with it and a few planking 'rules' were shelved here and there. But all in all I'm satisfied.
At this point it's been sanded but no finish applied. Need to make a decision there so we'll move over to the testing bench. In 1780, copper plates were not routinely used. 'White stuff' would have been SOP so I'll take a look at that. Rusty used holly on his lower hull and it gave the light effect nicely. But having gone with kit-supplied basswood I can look at using a natural stain finish. Or I may decide to stain to match the upper hull (Admiral's preference). A lot of touching up to do first on the britework (battle damage).
I'll figure this all out and the next time she's here we should be ready for a step back and relax moment.
Oh, in Ben's Confed log it took him 6 months to reach this point. Chuck must have built this into the kit (just like he figures everything else out).
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Chuck reacted to Jason in US Brig Syren by Jason - Model Shipways - 1:64
Copper, Finished at Last!
This had to be the most tedious part of this build up to this point. However, the result is really satisfying. I am not sure I will ever copper the bottom of a model again, but I am glad that I finished this one. I have to say, that the day that I bought this kit, I opened the box to examine the contents. At that time, I was not sure I could ever get to this point in the build.
As you can see from the last photo, I have started to prepare the ship to receive the rudder. This was a very nerve wracking step, as I did not want to wreck the counter.
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Chuck got a reaction from aviaamator in Triton Notes
I thought I would post these two images of a cross section model from the science museum. I thought it might help or at least act as inspiration for those building teh cross section Triton. What I find very pleasing is the change in the plank thickness. Especially the outboard planking. I have no idea which ship this is as I didnt write that down when I saved it. It is one of hundreds of pictures I saved and now I am trying to organize. Based on what I see it may be a later vessel...but still worthy of inspiration.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from WackoWolf in How To : Add Pictures in your Posts and PMs
Check here.....the question was asked already...
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/279-size-of-photos/
Please read through all of the topic titles in this forum first before you post the question again.
Thanks
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Chuck reacted to Gahm in US Brig Syren by Gahm - Model Shipways
After not posting anything for several weeks here is a brief update about my head rail efforts:
First I ended up not really liking the middle rails shown in the last images, so I finally tore them down. The major reason for that was that the part which was mounted directly on the wall of the ship turned out to be too short and as a consequence the shape of the head timbers would go from concave to convex. Then I tried to figure out which method of building the head timbers would lead to some decent looking results. I tried the method mentioned by Chuck in the head rail design of the Confederacy as there the head timbers do not consist out of 2 parts each but just one continuous piece. However, the Syren plans do not show any head timber profiles, so that method ended up with too many “degrees of freedom”. I finally went with the method described in the Syren instructions. With this method one of the challenges consists in generating the perception that each head timber, although constructed out of 2 parts, looks like it is made out of one continuous piece of wood. As I was not quite sure whether I ultimately would get acceptable results I finished middle rail and head timbers just on one side. So the good news is I have finished half of the head timbers. The bad news is I still have to do the other half.
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Chuck got a reaction from aviaamator in 18th century English Longboat by Chuck - FINISHED - c.1760
To start the planking, I added two strips on each side along the sheer. This stabilized the hull. It was pretty amazing how sturdy the whole thing got. Then I just continued down the hull with a few more. Then I switched directions and started adding them from the keel upwards. I met somewhere in the middle to finish the hull.
The strips were pre-bent to fit the hull both edge-wise and to conform to the bow and stern shape. When it was all done, I added teh stern post. Then it was time to treenail. I treenailed the hull using some Elmers wood filler. To help keep the treenails lined up I used some tape. I ran the tape down the hull being careful to line up one edge on the center of a frame. This was a challenge but I could hold the hull up close to teh light and see through the planking. Then I marked the locations of all of the frames based on the shadows that shown through the planking. I drilled some tiny holes (#78 drill bit) and then filled them. After sanding the hull I applied some wipe on poly
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Chuck got a reaction from Jonny 007 in 18th century English Longboat by Chuck - FINISHED - c.1760
To start...the slotted false keel was tapered from the bearding line to the outside edge. This created a simulated rabbet once the two keel pieces were cut to shape and glued into position.
Then the 16 bulkhead frames were added. I had these laser cut to save time. They were designed in a way that the center sections are removable. They are held to the frames by small tabs. Once the hull is planks I will file through the tabs and snap out the center sections. Care must be taken to square up the bulkheads with the keel and ensure they are straight so the the proper hull shape can be obtained. You could further stabilize the bulkheads by gluing a temporary batten across the tops of them which will be removed before I start filing the center sections free. But I am not a heavy handed builder so I just started fairing the hull immediately. I use d alight touch while beveling the outside edges of he bulkheads. The transom and bow fillers were added just prior to the start of planking.
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Chuck reacted to michael mott in cable laid vs rope (left vs right twist)
So after some more twisting I made a few feet of some .045 rope which is using 9 strands of Guttmann 50ne 100% cotton and 25 feet of .093 which is 3/4 inch diameter in 1:8 scale it took 3x21 strands. and I walked 1575 feet to string up the tools, for just this one rope, and calculating the 1/2 inch ropes it all ads up to 4950 feet that is almost a mile. Who would have thought this modelmaking hobby would provide exercise as well?
I think it looks pretty close, it will do for this model.
And the equipment.
Michael
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