Chuck

Mike
 
 
I understand what you are saying....but rest assured ... this is most certainly an advanced kit.   Although the parts are all laser cut and the jigs and design concept will alleviate much trouble....the builder will need to proceed very slowly and with much care.  To explain a bit about my philosophy for kits.
 
- My goal is to design kits that wont look like kits when they are built.  The quality of the wood and the parts and the historical accuracy.  No ply for fittings...no metal castings....no skimping on the final visual product. To design them in such a way that folks can build them with the same few tools they would use to build any other kit straight of of the box.  Yet when its done, and placed right beside a scratch version of the same subject...most wouldnt be able to tell the difference.   The design I hope will inspire others to use the same concepts after finishing it to slowly cross over to scratch building.  Or adapt the concepts for other kits that are lacking.
 
-  For example...first I wanted to introduce a model that would serve as an introduction to clinker planking.  Not the whole hull...but just a few planks.  So builders might not be nervous about it.  It will  literally be a step by step intro lesson on clinker planking...how to bevel...what to bevel etc.  See below for the one plank
 

 
- second...this model will also serve as an intro to carving.  Yes there will be three small resin castings, but the majority of the carved scroll  work you see on the sides of the hull and transom will be carved by the builder.  These arent complex figureheads or difficult subjects to scare folks who never tried it.   Or never used boxwood.  You will get the piece laser cut from boxwood flat and ordinary... and you will learn some simple techniques to get started carving...with a few extra pieces just in case of a mishap.
 

 
How to secure the piece for carving,  how to use a stop cut,  how to shave and carve with simple tools....how to undercut areas etc.  Step by step.  Nothing to fancy and elaborate...no expensive tools...just giving it a try with a little help.  At least the way I have always done it...I am sure that others will have a better way but this will show how I do it.  These are the two main features that are the focus for me on this project as well as creating a way to frame the boat properly with floors and futtocks like the contemporary model.  And NO...the carvings wont be that small.  It fits on a dime because I was just testing my laser cutter to see how hard I could push it....how small can laser cut something intricate and still capture some detail.   That is pretty dang small.   The real thing is about six times larger.
 
- So for me...designing this kit was a way to introduce a few things that are lacking with most kits....mainly they all look like kits unless you do some serious bashing with no guidance to go with it.  Why not start out with great materials....and guide the builders through it as if it was stepping stone to scratch building.  
 
Having said that...
 
The jigs and laser cut parts I provide are something I would normally make for myself if  I were building this from scratch...by giving them to a builder who might not have the tools or experience to create them,  they will at least get a chance to see a pre-spiled plank so they can understand and can visualize why using a straight strip isnt going to work.  They will see the spiled shape and think....this is nuts.....then after they place it on the hull without any difficulty, hopefully a light bulb will go off.   Then MAYBE they can apply what they have learned and experienced with this kit on the many other kits they build...or scratch projects.  Its hard to explain but I hope it makes sense.   
 
It wont be a beginner kit.  It will be an advanced kit FOR intermediate builders looking to try something they havent done before.  Now I keep showing the same image of the same contemporary model.  It wont look exactly like this one...but its close.   It will actually look a lot more like the one pictured below except for the transom carving.  I am referring to the colors and the lack of carving inside....just bare panels.  This is remember just an intro to carving.  Note how the planks are fastened....not treenailed....they are nailed.  Nailed to the plank beneath it.  Just something new to learn and I am learning right along with it.  And yes it will be a challenge.
 

 
 
 
 
 
Chuck

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Very unique Chuck. I see what you mean about the waste especially with pear or boxwood. A thought came to me though, if one was to order the pear or boxwood kit could we then send the scraps back to you and have some nice blocks made    

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

I thought I would give a little status update on this side project.   As some of you know I am working on two new complete kits for Syren...
 
One is of a 1/2" scale Royal navy barge circa 1700.  I am trying to push the envelope a bit with my design concepts and the laser cutter.   It will look like the contemporary model below but actually be almost exactly like the Queen Anne style barge shown in the Kriegstein collection.  Those that have the Seawatch book should check it out.  This will be a fully framed little model and I am very excited about it.  I am building off of the design concept I used for the long boat and pinnace but taking it a bit farther.  I hope these photos will give you a sufficient idea about the scope/concept of the project.  This is a big barge model at over 20" long.
 
I am fortunate to have found someone who is an excellent model builder who will build the prototype for me as it is designed.   Unfortunately there is just not enough time in the day for me to build everything I design.  He will be starting a build log shortly as I get a little further with the design.   Many of you know him and will enjoy his build log as you have enjoyed his others.  This project is a long, long way from being released but I thought I would show you what we are working on in addition to the many other projects.  It also shows you how Syren will bring new projects to market without having to wait for me to build the entire model.   I will be concentrating on finishing the Cheerful and then continuing with the Winchelsea.   At the same time I will be collaborating with others to bring you folks additional stuff!!! 
 
There are no deadlines for these projects...they will get done when they get done.  It is more important that these projects are the best possible within my limits of experience and expertise and they will never be rushed to market.   I will however keep you guys updated.   The last thing the hobby needs are more sub-par ship model projects and kits.  I apologize for the longer development times compared to others.  I hope its not too frustrating.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

As many of you are aware....we have had many group project forums in the past with a couple going on right now.   I just closed the Longboat group which had been going for several years.   It had soon run its course.  All closed groups will have their logs moved to the appropriate forum.  None will be lost.  Keep in mind all groups are not permanent.   They will wind down and close as  they lose steam and participation.   This will done to preserve valuable forum real estate and also keep the site fresh and exciting with new possibilities for the membership.  As the administrator I will pose the question in each group forum when it looks like interest and participation crawled to a stop.  It will be up to the membership if they want to keep it open...but that means its up to the membership to keep it active.
 
 
 
 
If closed....All pinned topics and non logs will be moved .  Nothing will be lost.
 
 
 
 
 
                             
 
 
 
 
 
To start a new project forum, it must meet this criteria.
 
 
 
 
 
- must have 6 - 8 current members actively building the project and willing to start a log in a separate group area.    Group will be open to any member wanting to participate.  No exclusions.
 
 
 
 
 
- subject can be suggested by any member as long as they meet the criteria.  Its time to rally your fellow members should you wish to start one.  If you are among many building one model now and there are more than 6 - 8 logs already started,  why not take the initiative to contact them to see if all of you want to start a group.  Just an idea.
 
 
 
 
 
- the forums must contain only Build logs following the same guidelines for naming them as the other build log forums.  
 
 
 
 
 
-all non-build log specific info related to the project that will help the group of builders, will be posted as a pinned topic above the build logs by a moderator.
 
-Every group project must have a named leader/mentor who will take charge of the group and agree to moderate it.  If you can not find one please contact us and we will try and find one for you.
 
 
 
 
 
 If you would like to suggest a topic for such a group build area...you may list it in this forum.....Try to rally your fellow members to start and participate in a new group.....or if there are already more than 6-8 "scratch" or "kit" forum build logs started and you can convince those builders to move their topics here.....we can do that as well.  But if that happens.....we will move all similar build logs here for convenience and consistency....even if you are NOT among the 6-8 who want to start such a separate group project forum.    But PLEASE...be as detailed as you can when suggesting a new group be started.
 
 
 
 
 
List the name and type of ship or item.....scratch or kit......POF or POB....solid hull....what will cost....time frame....where to get plans....kit...or supplies.   What would the goal and aim be if any for the project you are trying to start.
 
 
 
 
 
JUST ONE MORE SUGGESTION.....The project DOES NOT need to be for a complete ship or boat.  For example.  If members wanted to start a group about making a ship's stove or a capstan....that is fine too.  As long as there are 6-8 members who are actively doing so.  Trying new techniques and sharing them as well as working on the same exact thing.....if you want to start a group about using a lathe to turn cannon and it will active participants...that is great and worthwhile.
 
 
 
 
 
A group project such as this....its about learning together and exchanging ideas as a group on any one subject.   This structure is offered to make it easier and more convenient.  So think outside the box.  But we need 6-8 members to start one.   And the key word is ACTIVE PROJECT.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Chuck
 
 
(MSW admin)
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

I thought I would give a little status update on this side project.   As some of you know I am working on two new complete kits for Syren...
 
One is of a 1/2" scale Royal navy barge circa 1700.  I am trying to push the envelope a bit with my design concepts and the laser cutter.   It will look like the contemporary model below but actually be almost exactly like the Queen Anne style barge shown in the Kriegstein collection.  Those that have the Seawatch book should check it out.  This will be a fully framed little model and I am very excited about it.  I am building off of the design concept I used for the long boat and pinnace but taking it a bit farther.  I hope these photos will give you a sufficient idea about the scope/concept of the project.  This is a big barge model at over 20" long.
 
I am fortunate to have found someone who is an excellent model builder who will build the prototype for me as it is designed.   Unfortunately there is just not enough time in the day for me to build everything I design.  He will be starting a build log shortly as I get a little further with the design.   Many of you know him and will enjoy his build log as you have enjoyed his others.  This project is a long, long way from being released but I thought I would show you what we are working on in addition to the many other projects.  It also shows you how Syren will bring new projects to market without having to wait for me to build the entire model.   I will be concentrating on finishing the Cheerful and then continuing with the Winchelsea.   At the same time I will be collaborating with others to bring you folks additional stuff!!! 
 
There are no deadlines for these projects...they will get done when they get done.  It is more important that these projects are the best possible within my limits of experience and expertise and they will never be rushed to market.   I will however keep you guys updated.   The last thing the hobby needs are more sub-par ship model projects and kits.  I apologize for the longer development times compared to others.  I hope its not too frustrating.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

I thought I would give a little status update on this side project.   As some of you know I am working on two new complete kits for Syren...
 
One is of a 1/2" scale Royal navy barge circa 1700.  I am trying to push the envelope a bit with my design concepts and the laser cutter.   It will look like the contemporary model below but actually be almost exactly like the Queen Anne style barge shown in the Kriegstein collection.  Those that have the Seawatch book should check it out.  This will be a fully framed little model and I am very excited about it.  I am building off of the design concept I used for the long boat and pinnace but taking it a bit farther.  I hope these photos will give you a sufficient idea about the scope/concept of the project.  This is a big barge model at over 20" long.
 
I am fortunate to have found someone who is an excellent model builder who will build the prototype for me as it is designed.   Unfortunately there is just not enough time in the day for me to build everything I design.  He will be starting a build log shortly as I get a little further with the design.   Many of you know him and will enjoy his build log as you have enjoyed his others.  This project is a long, long way from being released but I thought I would show you what we are working on in addition to the many other projects.  It also shows you how Syren will bring new projects to market without having to wait for me to build the entire model.   I will be concentrating on finishing the Cheerful and then continuing with the Winchelsea.   At the same time I will be collaborating with others to bring you folks additional stuff!!! 
 
There are no deadlines for these projects...they will get done when they get done.  It is more important that these projects are the best possible within my limits of experience and expertise and they will never be rushed to market.   I will however keep you guys updated.   The last thing the hobby needs are more sub-par ship model projects and kits.  I apologize for the longer development times compared to others.  I hope its not too frustrating.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

I thought I would give a little status update on this side project.   As some of you know I am working on two new complete kits for Syren...
 
One is of a 1/2" scale Royal navy barge circa 1700.  I am trying to push the envelope a bit with my design concepts and the laser cutter.   It will look like the contemporary model below but actually be almost exactly like the Queen Anne style barge shown in the Kriegstein collection.  Those that have the Seawatch book should check it out.  This will be a fully framed little model and I am very excited about it.  I am building off of the design concept I used for the long boat and pinnace but taking it a bit farther.  I hope these photos will give you a sufficient idea about the scope/concept of the project.  This is a big barge model at over 20" long.
 
I am fortunate to have found someone who is an excellent model builder who will build the prototype for me as it is designed.   Unfortunately there is just not enough time in the day for me to build everything I design.  He will be starting a build log shortly as I get a little further with the design.   Many of you know him and will enjoy his build log as you have enjoyed his others.  This project is a long, long way from being released but I thought I would show you what we are working on in addition to the many other projects.  It also shows you how Syren will bring new projects to market without having to wait for me to build the entire model.   I will be concentrating on finishing the Cheerful and then continuing with the Winchelsea.   At the same time I will be collaborating with others to bring you folks additional stuff!!! 
 
There are no deadlines for these projects...they will get done when they get done.  It is more important that these projects are the best possible within my limits of experience and expertise and they will never be rushed to market.   I will however keep you guys updated.   The last thing the hobby needs are more sub-par ship model projects and kits.  I apologize for the longer development times compared to others.  I hope its not too frustrating.