Chuck

SeaWatchBooks has just released a new title. It is the many aspects of ship
modeling BY Don Dressel. The book is a grand snapshot of the current state
of the art and craft of ship modeling as displayed at the Western Ship Model
Conference and Exhibition Held in Newport Beach CA in 2011. One Hundred
Ninety one models are displayed in full color along with a brief write up on
each one.

Here you will find models made from wood, resin, plastic fiberglass and card
stock. They cover subjects from 1500 to today. They are scratch built,
modified from kits and out of the box kits in scales ranging from miniatures
and up. Featured are static displays, dioramas and R/C examples. Got to
www.seawatchbooks for details.
 
http://www.seawatchbooks.com/113002
 
Chuck

Yves,
You ask a question that only the log owner/builder could answer.  I wish we could help with that, but until they show up, we'll never know.

Well, I was at the museum yesterday and the Stag was sitting on the desk in front of me, but very little happened.
 
Firstly, there was a conference on in the next gallery and every time they had a break the delegates would come over for a chat to fill in time.
 
Secondly, I decided to do a bit of extra work on the sheet bitts as I wasn't really satisfied with them.  The first thing I did with them was to break one side off while trying to drill a hole for a dowell to make them stronger (looks like that dowell was needed).  Then I carefully placed the broken piece on the desk so it would be safe and it promptly disappeared - completey - without trace!  How that can happen on a clean and clutter free desk I don't know, but it did.
 
Next, I decided to try making a few blocks.  I only need one treble block for the Stag, so after completing it I carefully placed it on a piece of white paper on the cutting mat so it wouldn't get lost - and it too disappeared!!!!
 
At that stage I thought a cup of coffee was a good idea!
 
During the rest of the day I only managed to get a few blocks made, but at least I'm progressing.
 
John
 
The few blocks made during the day.

 
And a few photos showing the ridiculaous spread of the fore and aft spars.  Only the bowsprit is permanently fitted at the moment, but just placing the spars in their positions gives a good idea of the size of the rig.
 



 
 

Now how did my Longboat log get on this Club build page?  Chuck??
 
I have stepped the mast and im working on the rigging now, some pics this week. Now I have to decide how Im going
to display her.
 
ben

Ahoy Mates
 
Mario: So happy to see you back and building. I am looking forward to the “when” in your reply.
 
Martin: Glad to see you back in the mix. I looked into that deck. You were right.
 
Aldo: Thanks for coming aboard. Sometimes it feels like 10 miles. LOL
 
Dida: No just “home made”. I cut dowels, color them with a sharpie depending on how long the point is going to be. Then I use CA glue to secure the pins in them, filing the pin where it goes into a predrilled hole so the CA gets a good bite. Next, I paint them with thin CA glue so the sharpie does not bleed onto my work and the PVA glue I use does not stick to them.

 
 
Back to the build;
 
I cheated and used shims to correct for the previous problem where my “spiling attempt met the last of my brute force and superstition attempts.
 
I am posting my current procedure and some pics of my Spiling for review
 
First, I use a compass to transfer the curve of the last plank to a piece of paper pinned to the hull. Then I find the curve on my French curves. Next, I start with a very wide piece of wood so that once I have my curve I can cut a more planks, one right after the other. This helps me to speed up the “redos” and one day with the next plank.
 
Using a very hard pencil (4H) I trace out the cut as this creates a groove in the wood, which I find helpful. It also confirms I am on the tick marks I have measured for the plank width. I also use the edge of the French curve to guide my knife. I cut the plank much wider then required, soak it, and then form it to the hull “wide”. The wider plank makes it easier to make corrections. I can sand them to shape verses edge bending them to fix any errors in my curve. These errors coming from me trying to transcribe tick marks to a flat piece of paper on the curved hull. The hardest part.
 
Your comments are appreciated and welcome

This is a model I posted on a bit on the old site. I am presenting here as a build log of sorts.I built this model back in 2003 as a learning experience. It worked. I learned a lot about how to build a model and also how not to build a model.
 
There are a few things I like about this model as well as a good deal I do not like. One thing I am proud of is that the entire model is treenailed. That was important to me. There are numerous mistakes in the size of timbers, as well as the way they are joined. Still, this model taught me a good deal and it sits on my shelf and it has survived the last ten years quite well.
 
Here is how the model began.

 

 

 

 
Note that the framing is all double frames. Also note that the keel and keelson are a tad small, and that the mast step is just plain wrong. It works, but it could have been some much more accurate. On a  positive note, those fillers stiffened the framing well and made it easy to sand it out fair.
 
More later.
 
Questions and comments are welcomed.
 
Russ
 
 

Thank you, sir.  Number six was a perfect fit.

This area is intended for your build logs of any scratch-built models you are working.  Whether they are wood, plastic, card, or RC kits.  This is the place where you can document your step-by-step progress.  Post images of your work and share your techniques and ideas with your fellow Model Ship World members.
 
How to set up your log?
 
Create a new topic for each individual model you are working on.  As you make more progress on it,  reply within that topic to post updates on it.  Please keep all such posts on topic with regard to the log you are working on and all replies within your one log.  Do not create another topic each time you want to make an update.  If you are only posting images of your completed model...please do so in the gallery.  This forum is for works in progress so we can follow along with your step-by-step explanations.
 
How to Name your build log?
 
We have a "Build Log Naming Convention" to enable the Search Engine to sort them Alphabetically by "Ship's Name" and/or "Builder's Name".
 
We urge you to follow the guidelines below to make this work properly. If you don't, a Moderator will do it for you anyway - so you may as well get it right first time and save us the trouble.
 
This is how your Build Log Title must be set up for Static Wooden Ships :
 
HMS Victory by Fred Bloggs - Scale 1: 75 - 1805 as she appeared after Trafalger - First wooden ship build
 
The first section in RED is MANDATORY and must be done EXACTLY as shown to enable correct Sorting by the Search facility. Note there are SPACES either side of the dash following your Username.
 
Check other Build Logs for an existing one to see whether the "HMS" (or other prefix) is used before the Ship's Name.
 
DO NOT Re-Title the RED section if it has been done by a Moderator.
 
The second section in GREEN is OPTIONAL - you may add any further information you like. There is a much larger Character Limit than previously - 150 characters compared to the old one of about 40.
 
(Note that the colors above are only for this demonstration - you can't Format a Title like you can with other Text)
 
For Plastic, Card, Ships in Bottles and Radio Controlled the following (in PURPLE) will need to be added :
 
USS New Jersey by giblets - PLASTIC - Superdetailed with PE
 
HMAS Sydney by ship ahoy - CARD - 1: 100
 
HMS Victory by Simmo - BOTTLE - 1/700 scale
 
Vosper PT Boat by whereami - RADIO - A nice model to build
 
Instructions on how to use the Search to find a Build Log list of the Ship you are looking for are in a pinned Topic in "Questions/instructions on how to use and post to this forum/Site Problems or suggestions".

See this topic.....its very simple really..I dont think it could be much easier.  Its just a matter of using the search feature.  Or as Russ indicates....there are only a few pages of scratch logs.  Just scroll through them.  Then add them to your followed topics for future reference.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/586-how-to-sort-build-logs-using-the-search-features/
 
Chuck

My build log went off into interspace in the Great Crash of ´13, but I have the photos, so I will try to resurrect it. It is my first build, so I have nothing to teach anyonewho knows what they are doing, but perhaps someone starting can learn from my mistakes.
I had put the first plank on before I discovered Model Ship World, and learned how little I knew, and how it should have been done. So, acting on its advice, I took the plank off, and made the bow solid, with a ‘sandwich’ of thin pine planks, then put the plank back, as below.
 

 
To be continued


 

main mast mocked up and installed. it's amazing these ships even work with that much sail area.

 
top rail installed. sides of the rail need the stain touched up where I adjusted the fit. the rail at the transom will have to wait until I get the transom trim installed.

Jason that is a great start.  Its always great to see another kit get started.  I was wondering if you would like me to move this log to the dedicated group project forum??  Just let me know.  It doesnt matter to me but I figure it would be easier for folks to look at everyones progress and share tips.
 
Chuck

Congrats on teh promotion....I am looking forward to seeing the longboat take shape.
 
Chuck

I am a member of the San Diego Shipmoddelers Guild community build. I am behind in posting my progress so will post photos to try and catch up with minimum dialog.
 
I have followed the kit instructions and used kit materials up to this point with a couple of changes. One thing I did before planking was to stack all the planking material face to face and tack glue the ends together. This gave me a block that I could feed through my thickness sander. When seperated this gave me planking material of equal width and with nice square edges. One of my deviations was to leave off some of the planking on one side to show off the frames.
 
 

 
I made a special tool for sanding the inside of the frames. It consisted of a section of dowel with sandpapper glued to it and a handle added. The length of the dowel was just wideer than tghe distance between frames.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Thanks all!   It is a great deal of fun.  Kind of a mix of fun and fear hehe.  
 
No mental scars yet
 
Chuck - this really is a great kit, one of the reasons I picked it up was all the build logs here for this very one, including yours which I read many many times and was a driving influence behind picking it up!!  (My wife by the way may want a word with you since I told her this one was so good that I have already eyed my next one....your Syren    )   Anyway, I have been checking hoping you had put that one back up, but I know that is a lot of work.  If you have any shots of the bow  1st planking, vs 2cnd planking, vs with beak  I would love it.  I am having a hard time seeing where what I am doing is going to end up looking like what it is supposed to but moving forward with blind faith in what I am doing.
 
Sjors - Thank you sir,  I am using a lot of faith on this one - trust me!!
 
Keel, Russ - Thanks for the kind words,  I am pleased with how it turned out and kind of gave me that - hey, this won't be so bad after all.  The pen was good,  I wish I could say it was my idea, but I read it here in the multitudes of log before the shut down,  I believe it was Dan Vadas who was talking about it.
 
Gerty, thank you sir  -  i see you are posting on the willie again,  I may have to switch back over to keep up with you
 
And Wayne,  hate to say it - but up until a year ago when I started this hobby I didn't even know what a Tiller was
 
 
 
I may be a couple of days before another update; the Admiral has informed me that she couldn't help notice I have two boats moving right along but the office which was supposed to be redone by end of winter was only barely started  .   So, I must attend to that some I think!!
 
 
Till later!
Enjoy!!!
 
 
-Adam

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice Work. There is so much nice stuff on this site. Need more building time.
 
Later 42rocker

Nice cutting of the curves on the deck beams.  In my yard, brute force and superstition would have been used to bend them into submisssion  .
 
I'm not going to ask if the stove works.
 
The great thing about this log is that, after almost 2 years on MSW, I'm beginning to see how things should be done.  That's not to say I could actually DO them.

The Naiad Frigate - Addendum 2
Printing Patterns
 
This is not a correction, but merely a note to emphasize the importance of printing the Naiad pattern sheets at ACTUAL SIZE.  This may seem obvious, but the Adobe software I use does not always default to actual size in the print dialog box.  It apparently opens at the last setting used.
 
To avoid the catastrophe of printing at the wrong scale, the attached pdf shows the correct printing settings on the two common Adobe applications and describes a method for checking the settings.
 
 
Addendum 2 .pdf
 
Ed
 

And here is the gunport lids being made and installed

Here is the making of the ships stove.

Here is a view of the cannon construction.

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi everyone. Wow, what a change! 
 
Anyway, it looks like I need to start a new log so here it is.
 
I haven't been able to get much done as of late. I've managed to get the catheads &  headrails done. Unfortunately I didn't see the the plan view of the middle head rail before attaching it, so it's missing the angle. (I really need to look at these plans more carefully!!)   
 
Also here's my first question:
 
According to the instructions the bumpkin is to be made from 1/16" round dowel but the stock I have is very flimsy and I don't believe it will hold up without bending when I attach the rigging. Should I use a bigger dowel?
 
And I just want to say - Its good to be back - I have lots of catching up to do on everyone's build logs.
 
Richard
 
  

I decided to plank using boxwood purchased from Jeff at Hobby Mill...he is the best!
 
     Bob R.