Chuck

Hi everyone. Wow, what a change! 
 
Anyway, it looks like I need to start a new log so here it is.
 
I haven't been able to get much done as of late. I've managed to get the catheads &  headrails done. Unfortunately I didn't see the the plan view of the middle head rail before attaching it, so it's missing the angle. (I really need to look at these plans more carefully!!)   
 
Also here's my first question:
 
According to the instructions the bumpkin is to be made from 1/16" round dowel but the stock I have is very flimsy and I don't believe it will hold up without bending when I attach the rigging. Should I use a bigger dowel?
 
And I just want to say - Its good to be back - I have lots of catching up to do on everyone's build logs.
 
Richard
 
  

I decided to plank using boxwood purchased from Jeff at Hobby Mill...he is the best!
 
     Bob R.

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi All, I've been digging through my file and I'm putting to gether the pictures for my scratch build of Chucks Model Shipways Syren. The build is in the 1:64 scale. The main wood used was Boxwood, Cherry, Holly and Swiss Pear.
 
 
This log was started back in 2007 and I was bad about taking pictures but here is what I have.
 

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update.
Ok... I've been experimenting A LOT with my machine and I think I got it now.
Here are photos of one thin (3 strands) thread in light beige, made with 3 strands (1 per spool) of Gutterman quilting thread. (It looks fuzzy, but every rope that goes onto my ship, passes over a lighter flame first to eliminate that.) This is the thinnest I may be able to do just because it's the thinnest thread I can start with. I found out that the problem I had making thin ropes was not the die hole diameter, but the speed. I managed to make this rope (less than .5mm) using the die that came with the machine, which is way wider than this thread, but at a very slow speed. In fact, I just learned that by letting the  twisting point to remain half way between the large eye before the die, and the spinning head, the thread came up more smooth and tight. I would love to hear some others experimenting with this.
 
The dark brown (36 strands) was made with  4 threads per spool spun into 1, (4*3) and then, 3 of these  spun into 1
(4*3*3=36).
 
I feel that if I can make these, I can make anything that's inbetween.
 
So  the options to make thick ropes are now 3:
 
1.- (The longest and more tedious, but maybe the more accurate) Start by twisting several (many many) meters of 1*3 rope, use those to make 1*3*3, then use these to make 1*9*3, etc
 
2.- Use 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 strands per spool. You will get a different thickness with each.
 
3.- Use different diameter threads to start with.
 
(Or any combination of the above)

New recruit requesting permission to come aboard!
 
Having made a few ships in bottles I wanted to see how small I could make a static ship model.
I have been overawed by the quality and craftsmanship of models I have seen in these pages and know that I could never come close to these. 
I used to build small ships when I was a kid so I  thought I would have another go. this is one from 45 years ago that my mother still had!
 
  I really loved the models I used to look at in the NMM and Science Museum in London and decided to make my Victory out of boxwood for the beautiful colour and fine grain. I acquired some boxwood veneer and made a start.
 

 
I made the bulkheads and keel from 0.7mm ply the boxwood was used for deck and planking
 



 
I was keen to keep the model in a timber finish and started to construct the stern and galleries onto the base hull form
 

 
The gunports are closed! and therefore set out as simple squares on the hull. I also started to think about the few visible cannons with brass tube barrels.
 

 
Lower masts are bamboo skewers reduced through a draw plate and bands fitted in cotton thread
 

 
For the smaller solid parts I used sawn sections from one of my wife's used clay modelling tools which are made of fine boxwood
 

Here is a PDF of the friezes.  I reduced some of the transom images further and it should be good to go.  Remember...if anyone needs a further resizing let me via PM.  All of the six transoms are different sizes so hopefully out of those posted you will find one you like.  Download it below.
 
longboatfreizes.pdf
 
Chuck

Thats not needed...most folks are good people.  They wouldnt do those things.  Those that would.....these types of agreements wouldnt matter.  If you post anything on the internet...beware of where it may end up.  Its really simple.  There is no way to protect yourself from crooks and evil people.  If you post any documents make sure you list your name and copyright.  Other then that...posting is open for all that "suck" to do their selfish deeds.  I have seen so many people ripped off (including myself) it is painful.   But those that are caught will be banned immediately from this site.
 
Chuck

Here are the stern decorations the were generously provided by Chuck. They are resin cast by Chuck and then painted by me. I could take 50 years and not be able to sculpt anything close to this.

Here is a PDF of the friezes.  I reduced some of the transom images further and it should be good to go.  Remember...if anyone needs a further resizing let me via PM.  All of the six transoms are different sizes so hopefully out of those posted you will find one you like.  Download it below.
 
longboatfreizes.pdf
 
Chuck

Ryland,
 
This is a beautiful Build Log. I love how you present the kit, the parts, the plans and all your step-by-step progress.
 
Darn, it makes my mouth water just watching you build that gorgeous kit. Once again, I am going to have to invest in Chuck Passaro, Inc.
 
I'll be following closely. By the time you are done, your Build Log will become the De Facto Practicum.
 
Yves

OK Chuck, I have pulled my partially completed Longboat out of the box and am ready to start back to work on this kit.  Your pictures really inspire me and like Chuck Seiler said, you can expand the pictures to get a better look at the detail.  Look for another Longboat build log soon.

continuous work, a bit delayed and carefully

After all of the bulkheads were installed, it was time to fair them.  I used sanding sticks that I purchased from a beauty supply shop.  You have to use a light touch to do the fairing or you will loosen up some of the bulkheads.  I actually loosened up several of the bulkheads, but it was an easy fix to reglue them. 
 
Here are some pictures of the fairing process and the sanding sticks that I used.
 

 
Next step is to start the planking.

Thank you gentlemen! Erik, for the tarred joints I use acid free black paper (craft and artists supply stores have this) and white glue. Depending on the joint I'll use thicker or thinner paper and the edges are shaved clean with a blade. I would strongly suggest preparing a test wood/paper/wood sandwich first and applying the finish you prefer as a test to make sure the paper doesn't bleed onto the wood surface. Finally, I perforate the surface of the paper between joints with a pin to make sure glue adequately penetrates through to the other side. I also make sure to use treenails or fasteners in these joints. As yet haven't had a joint failure.
 
I've also used carpenters glue tinted with aniline dye powders. This works well too but is a holy mess.
 

OK, we've played this tune before on the main mast but now we've moved forward!  In spite of Sjors recent allegations, I did not 'forget' to rig the foremast.
 
The upper foremast shrouds, shear strips/futtocks, cleats, sister blocks and catharpins are complete.  Even better, the last of the ratlines have been tied.  I am stuck as to which title to bestow upon myself........'King of the Clove Hitch' or Edward Tweezerhands.    Anja can now return!!!!
 
We shall now be moving on to the more sweeping aspects of the forward standing rigging.  Looking forward to seeing the bowsprit once again
 

 

 
 
 
 

Hello All,
 
This is a build log for my Model Shipways 18th Century Long Boat kit.  Two very new things for me, one building models from wood, and the second posting about a process in an online forum.  So here goes...
 
I have been interested in building models since I was a teenager, and indeed built many while in high school.  Though none have seemed to survive the journey into adulthood with me.  In the last couple of years, that interest has been rekindled, due to a remarkably well stocked hobby store in the neighborhood that I was living in, and the fact that my wonderful wife encourages me in my many hobbies.  I have since been working on many models concurrently, mostly plastic ships and balsa airplanes which adorn our son's bedroom ceiling after we are done flying them.  I had been dreaming about building a Model Shipways kit for quite sometime before the opportunity presented itself.
 
First a promotion forced us to move, and in an act of self consolation I bought myself the US Brig Syren Kit.  Once we settled into our new place I realized that I needed a bigger desk if I was going to work on the Syren, so it sat and still sits patiently in it's box in my office.  Soon I came across something that really piqued my curiosity.  That was the Long Boat kit.
 
I thought that it would be a great place to start, on something that wasn't quite so detailed as the brig.  Additionally, it is of course a very handsome little model too.  I got the kit at Christmas, and started it a couple of weeks later.  I have been taking pictures during the process.  Over the next week or so I hope to post everything up to where I am currently at in my build.
 
So far it has been a very pleasurable experience, I am especially enjoying working with wood instead of plastic as a medium.  I feel as though there is a life in the material itself that I just do not feel with plastic.
 

I split and moved the discussion to its own topic...I hope I dis this right and didnt lose any in the process....anyway
 
Hope you guys dont mind but it was getting near two pages of discussion on the log.
 
Please continue.....
 
Chuck

No thanks....I prefer to use my Uncle Pauly....
 
If someone posts something that is copyright...we are really good about that.  We almost immediately remove it.  I am not worried about that.  Most folks are reasonable and after talking to the original author we would certainly remove it.  Its folks stealing stuff that hard to deal with...But my uncle said its real easy....he starts with the pinkies.
 
Chuck

Thats not needed...most folks are good people.  They wouldnt do those things.  Those that would.....these types of agreements wouldnt matter.  If you post anything on the internet...beware of where it may end up.  Its really simple.  There is no way to protect yourself from crooks and evil people.  If you post any documents make sure you list your name and copyright.  Other then that...posting is open for all that "suck" to do their selfish deeds.  I have seen so many people ripped off (including myself) it is painful.   But those that are caught will be banned immediately from this site.
 
Chuck

No thanks....I prefer to use my Uncle Pauly....
 
If someone posts something that is copyright...we are really good about that.  We almost immediately remove it.  I am not worried about that.  Most folks are reasonable and after talking to the original author we would certainly remove it.  Its folks stealing stuff that hard to deal with...But my uncle said its real easy....he starts with the pinkies.
 
Chuck

Thats not needed...most folks are good people.  They wouldnt do those things.  Those that would.....these types of agreements wouldnt matter.  If you post anything on the internet...beware of where it may end up.  Its really simple.  There is no way to protect yourself from crooks and evil people.  If you post any documents make sure you list your name and copyright.  Other then that...posting is open for all that "suck" to do their selfish deeds.  I have seen so many people ripped off (including myself) it is painful.   But those that are caught will be banned immediately from this site.
 
Chuck

In seriousness.
 
The images used as examples are not infringing on copyrights. As none of them, in their context, are being passed off as the authors but rather a reference to the original.
 
Now, had someone posted a picture of a completed ship and posted it under the headline - look at my latest ship! Making us all believe that the ship and the photo was theirs;  that would be dipping into copyright murkiness.
 
Also, taking a photo of a box is not breaking copyright; mainly because the photo is yours - you took the picture, and the box is (as Mark pointed out) advertising the ship which you are about to build.  No company is going to complain about that.  However, if you took the contents of the box, removed the box (because you would have to be silly not to in order to try this) and said,  look at the parts I made to build my ship!   NOW we are into stealing someone elses work =)
 
Guess that is just a wordy way to try to help clarify fair use.   Pretty much as long as you are not making money or noteriety off the picture or work, passing the image or work off as your own original work, or using the picture or work in  a harmful manner to the original owner - they really are not going to make much a fuss over it as it doesn't benefit them and costs money for nor reason.
 
Another very large misconception to the interwebs, and I have been doing this a long long long .. oh my gosh a long time...while techincally internet copyright CAN be enforced; it rarely is as it is incredibly cost prohibitive.  If you really want to protect your work - watermark it,  just make sure you use a GOOD watermark, because watermarks are not hard to remove unless you make it hard to remove. 
 
This is why the majority of the time if someone is really bothered by it they send a cease and desist letter which in most cases ends it right then and there.  Then escalate it if it is financially profitable in some way. Which to major companies with money to spare tend to escalate it to the end more so than your average joe as they are protecting their copyright which in the long run is financially viable.
 
You also run into the hardship of enforcing it overseas.   How many copyright infringement claims have you seen won against foreign countries?  Not many because most do not care about copyright laws except their own.
 
So,  it is great to bring it up.  It is good for folks to be aware. However, in reality, it is a post at your own risk kind of internet world   Where the villains have the upper hand, and the good guys are happy being the good guys
 
Enjoy!
-Adam

I split and moved the discussion to its own topic...I hope I dis this right and didnt lose any in the process....anyway
 
Hope you guys dont mind but it was getting near two pages of discussion on the log.
 
Please continue.....
 
Chuck