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Erik W

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Everything posted by Erik W

  1. Some advice I've found that works from the model railroad world is to bake the painted brass part. I've done this simply by letting the painted brass sit about an inch under a hot light bulb for about 10 minutes. The light bulb should generate enough heat that the part is hot to the touch. Do NOT use this technique though for any brass parts that have been soldered (it may pop the solder joint), or have plastic parts attached. For Chuck's carronades, if they have the wood monograms glued on, you may want to test this technique on one before you do the whole batch. Also, as Chuck said, to avoid paint flaking off, if at all possible, avoid handling the parts once painted. Erik
  2. Nice Chuck. I was wondering how you got the textured look on that first carronade. The weathering powder also really helps the monograms stand out. Erik
  3. Dan, Thanks for the close-ups! You definitely do great work!! Erik
  4. I picked up a bottle of Vallejo Flat Red # 70957. It's easier to get an even coat, without brush marks, than the Polly Scale paint I used on the longboat. So, I'll use this red for the bulwarks color. I got the gun ports painted. Erik
  5. Your Boston looks amazing!! I was going to ask for larger photos, but I see above that you're dealing with an older computer. Any chance when you break the camera out next time, we can get some closer close-ups? Thanks! Erik
  6. No new photos, but I spent the evening scrutinizing the fairing, both with my Mark 1 eyeball, and using a piece of boxwood planking material. I wound up touching up the area at the lower bow, and after test fitting planks, used a coarse sanding stick to further taper the bulkhead former at the stern from the bearding line to the rabbet strip . . . you were right Mike (Stuntflyer). On my longboat I had used Polly Scale Soo Line Red acrylic paint for the red. I have plenty of that left, but am going to experiment with Vallejo red (on scrap wood, of course). Vallejo paints from Spain are very high quality and are the best bottled acrylics I know for brushing with no brush marks or unevenness. I'll post my results here. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/model-color/family/15 Erik
  7. Mike, Your longboat looks great! Good job!! I was wondering if you had been working on it recently. Do you have any plans to build another boat/ship? Erik
  8. Mike, I had payed close attention to your issues with the square tuck and over-fairing that area. I'm glad you documented that in your build log, otherwise I would've probably not payed close enough attention to what I was doing in that area. Erik
  9. After much effort I got the stern framing finished, more or less. I still have more fairing to do, and more clean up. The stern gun ports were a real pain in the butt. I wound up doing one of them over 5 times! Luckily I know when to just walk away for a while or I would've launched the ship out the window! In addition to bass wood filler immediately behind the square tuck, I added some balsa filler material between that and the rearmost bulkhead. This area is tough to get faired correctly, so I figured having a solid mass of wood in there would help me visualize the run of the planks. I knew back when I faired the bulkheads that I over-faired one side of the rearmost bulkhead. I added .020" strip to the bulkhead to get the shape correct. You can see it in the top photo. My goal is to not have any surprises when I get to the planking stage. I extensively test fit planking material in every area of the stern to make sure the plank run looks good. This has been the most challenging part of the build so far. Though not perfect, I think things came out well enough. Erik
  10. Mike, Now that you've finished sanding the deck, and applied a coat of WOP, your worries about any gaps between deck planking are definitely unfounded. Everything looks very tight and clean! Erik
  11. It looks like you are off to a great start! Are you using Gérard Delacroix 's monograph? http://gerard.delacroix.pagesperso-orange.fr/rochefort/plaquette-e.htm Erik
  12. Mike, The deck looks awesome!! Can't wait to see the photos after the final sanding and WOP. Erik
  13. Ed, I've been looking forward to how you'd build these boats. You're off to a good start! Erik
  14. I cleaned up the stern frames and glued the outermost frames onto the ship. The inner 4 are just temporarily taped on so I could get a sense of how this will look. The next step involves breaking out the Dremel with a sanding drum to remove the bulk of the material on the outer stern frames, before I do the rest of the fairing by hand. Erik
  15. I carefully faired the gun ports. Some of the gun port framing wood pieces are too short, so I'll correct that by adding additional wood pieces to get them to the correct height. Since the frames will be painted, it should be an easy fix. Erik
  16. I cut out the forward gun ports for the bow chaser cannons. Before I did this, I thinned the wood material to about 3/16" using a rough sanding drum on a Dremel. This made cutting and filing the ports to shape easier since there was less material to cut through. I used a fine tooth solid Zona saw blade and some different shaped diamond files to get the gun ports cut and shaped correctly. Erik
  17. Excellent job! Your Cheerful looks great! Erik
  18. Wow! Marsalv, the windows look great. Erik
  19. I'm back in town, and back to work on the Cheerful. in the last couple of days I framed the gun ports. They still need to be faired. This proved to be a bit of a chore since each port has different sized lumber framing it. I used 1/4" square boxwood strip and cut/sanded it to shape. My fingers need a rest! Erik
  20. Bob, You're moving right along. Looks great! You're getting to that advanced stage of the build where you're probably thinking, "Um, I'm almost done . . . I wonder what my next project will be". Erik
  21. Jerry, Nice job! I'm enjoying following the progress on your build. Also, I've recently ordered from Ancre, and have had it go as easily as your experience. Erik
  22. Bob, I think you win the award for cleanest longboat build! Truly. Your longboat is flawless. Erik
  23. I'm heading out of town for a week, but managed to get the gun port sills installed. When I installed bulkhead "B" (the one where the mast will go) I had noticed the bulkhead was warped a bit on the port side. You can see in the photo I added a balsa block between bulkhead "B" and bulkhead "D" in front of it (the second gun port sill from the front). This made it possible for the gun port sill to be the same length as the one on the starboard side. Also, the spacing between the bulkheads is now the same on both sides. Erik
  24. Bob, Your Cheerful is looking awesome! I can see what you mean about the cannons being a tight fit once the bowsprit is added. You're nearly to the rigging phase of the build!! Erik
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