Mumin

On 2/15/2019 at 12:22 PM, chris watton said:

Having said that, I may just sell a dozen kits and that's it....

Oh, I suppose you'll sell twice as much from preorders on this forum alone

On 10.12.2017 at 5:14 PM, Mike Y said:

Waterways in place. Next is the deck that should be sanded to fit between those:

Aaaand....they are upside-down (check my October comments and numbering of the Left and Right parts). Those longitudinal groves are for forming only and should not be visible. Not a big deal however, on Russian forum some people do it on purpose   (they like the effect)

Great job! You definitely should send some photos to Daniel for his webpage.

I didn't start mine yet, just read the Russian forum

There are more "traps" in this build:

1) markings on B19 are not for beveling, they are guides for gluing L11. And together they form temporary guides for drilling.

2) Waterways should be glued "upside down" (the glue goes on the upper - marked side)

3) Pay close attention to the right and left parts, sometimes they are intermixed on the plates (for example bulwark D2L sits together with R planks and vice-versa).

On 20.06.2017 at 8:32 PM, Mike Y said:

the build is on hold due to summer holidays that Daria will mostly spend with her grandparents, so will be back in September!

Daria, we can't wait for the update of the build

Not now. The second planking should be glued to the bulkheads only (as far as I remember the instruction manual suggests this) and then you will see if it needs filler.

In Shipyard models the first (of three) layer is just for the strengthening the hull. But fairing of the bulkheads shouldn't hurt...

1 hour ago, Pau said:

A new member.Can't find the practicum for the Phantom in any of the links posted.

ModelExpo has it on Phantom page (separate chapters or all-in-one pdf), just scroll down to Description and click second tab (Instruction and Parts List).

8 hours ago, catopower said:

The standard kit, like other Dusek kits, uses resin castings for the cannons, and that's the only downside I see to it, as I prefer nicely turned brass. Probably something Chuck sells might work.

Dušek sells both turned brass cannons and a bundle kit+cannons. And it's on sale right now

There is also "inside the box" video on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBT3_J9oKsA

47 minutes ago, Ponto said:

... that looks fairly impressive! Is there an English version for the site offering more information?

 

JP

 

 

They have Canadian webpage... in French only : http://hachettecollections.ca/contact.php

27 minutes ago, Ulises Victoria said:

I will try to contact them by email.

From what I can see here, Mexico is covered by their division Salvat, so you can contact them directly: https://mx.salvat.com/home/contact

Hachette in Italy just anounced partwork "La Belle 1684":

http://www.costruiscilabelle.it/ 
 

if I understand correctly, "tecnica dell'arsenale" means "admiralty model"

I've just noticed this message on the webpage:

To our foreign customers. The translations of manuals into English are currently at the beta state. They are correct, but the language is a little rough. Here is the list of translations that can be downloaded: MK0302 Schooner Polotsk

Might come in handy

As I understand, Mantua kit is in scale 1:84 and Mamoli was 1:150. And the second one is not in production at the moment, you should ask Daniel Dusek about it (his company bought the rights to Mamoli models).

Arsenal modeling is a discipline of naval modeling, the oldest and most demanding.

What is the meaning of the word "arsenal" in this case? I know that the historical ruins called "Arsenali" (eg. in Heraklion, Crete, from Venetian period) are in fact places where the ships were build, not the places to store the weapons/armaments.

If that's the case, then the term "admiralty model" is very close, or even the same?

Edit: link added

Chrome sees them as spaces. Just click inside the url (address) bar and press ENTER.

 Except the fact that every single part fits too tight and notches should be extended with a file. Bleh!

Mike, that's immeasurably better than "every single part fits too loose"

Great job on the build!

Don't soak the stones and clean afterwards. Keep them in water all the time (add a drop or two of vinegar, to eradicate algae/fungus).

 Does anyone know what the long silver contraption does? 

That's "circle cutter" (compass): Take a look here:

 

Here I made the mistake of installing the pipes first and the round frames afterwards, making it too hard to hammer nails to the holes on the frame. I leave them as they are for now, until I get a piece of iron rod to help hammer the nails without hitting the exhaust pipes.

Wouldn't it be better to drill small holes and use the pin-pusher?

Hi Nick,

For strengthening the hull you can use the polyurethane spray foam (low pressure variant!). But do it carefully, as it can easilly lead to "banana" hull (or even break it apart).

The examples of this method can be seen here and (more detailed) here.

Also, if you are looking for other builds of this model you can search for WAK edition. As far as I understand, this is "Maly Modelarz" rescaled to 1:200.

Richard,

the plans and dimensions are for two variants: 60cm length/7 keel holders and 100cm length/11 keel holders but certainly can be modified.

BTW, some credits are in order, since the explanations on the plans are in Polish. This building slip is a part of group project "Baltic galeas Karl und Marie" meant as an introduction to scratch building. All the plans are available, along with sample build log by Romek Sobolewski. Original author of the building slip is Marek Mróz, the modifications and all the plans are prepared by Radek Kubera, Mirek Rybus and Jarek Bąkowski. The project was conceived somewhere in 2005, but is still very much alive - just recently several new modelers started their build logs on koga forum.

I am not experienced in creating plans, but if anyone does, please post them.

The plans are available on Polish modeling forum "Koga" (the link starts the download of pdf file).

David,

The main purposes are two: to protect the ink (print) and to make the paper easier to form. As for the applying - one can use regular flat (about 3cm/1inch  wide) paintbrush or by airbrush. Apply to both sides and hang to dry.

There is no difference in gluing when using surface cements (like polymer glue or butapren/shoe glue) and little to none with water based glue (like PVA or BCG).