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Everything posted by Ferit
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I need help... Please let me know; how much have to be the proportion of the distance of the euphroe form the top rim according to the diameter of the crowsnet? Or another ratio between other two things that should give me the opportunity to calculate the possible lenght of the crowfeet.
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Thank you OC... Two ropes lifting the fore yard are ended with a violin block above this cut off. This violin block is fixed to the knight placed under the forecastle deck by a rope passing through that small cut out.
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Hi, Thank you; Jason and who visits and who likes... I can produce only very limited updates... Homemade blocks of 4 mm, work on bowsprit mast, blocks, shrouds, some rigging lines...
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Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
Ferit replied to Ondras71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
You make feel enthousiasm to build a model ship... -
Good luck with the new build, Michael... No break!... It will be interesting, enjoyable and instructive...
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Thank you Michael for the info. Denis, as Michael told; Corel kit supply was made from metal (coopper?) and plastic. IMO to find parrels in; right/appropriate size and shape and material (wood) and good quality from a store is not easy. Nowadays I spend lot of time to make my own blocks. Corel and store ones (that I had bought before to replace kit supply blocks) are too bad. Michael's choices (blocks, parrels, riggings lines, etc...) are very good and satisfying... Michael, your Wasa Log is really a reference source... I understand better when I need it.
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Hi Michael, It may be explained before in some topics but I didn't found, I apologize... Please let me know the origin of these wooden parrels? Hand made, kit supply, purchased from a store? (if purchased, what is the size and which is the store?) Thank you.
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Thank you Michael, Mike and who liked... A small update. I do not know if I've done the right thing about the ropes of the anchors but there isn't any guide on the plans, in fact there isn't any rope in this area... It's my decision, right or wrong... :-/ Grating is now on its own place... And there are somewhere some few blocks fixed on the masts...
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Scale of Gratings
Ferit replied to Ferit's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi wefalck; The problem is how to know the approach during 1600's... Were there only squares (equals on the timbers and the spaces) or rectangles? And IMO the gratings have to provide to walk safely on it and to pass the light to the lower deck. Precision balance...- 8 replies
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Scale of Gratings
Ferit replied to Ferit's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thank you for the answers. The gratings in the photo have 0.039" (1mm) as timber thickness and 0.118" (3mm) as the space between the timbers. Ratio is 1 for timber, 3 for the space. At 1/40 scale that space corresponds 56,69" (12cm). It's too large to walk on it without getting stuck. And it seems to me that the ratio of 3 timber's thickness = 1 space can be incorrect whatever is the era. (Am I wrong?) Is it possible at the end of 1600's that was the correct ratio?- 8 replies
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I think kit supply gratings are not correct in size, scale and ratio. What should be the thickness of the wooden part and the size of the hole on the gratings in the real world for a period ship? What is the ratio to each other? Are there any changes during centuries? (esp. for a ship scale 1/40 year 1600-1700) I don't think that is regular, it's impossible to walk on it...
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Very fine and finished work Max, I'm still on the way... I want a help from you. Some parts of my plans have been damaged. Please let me know which numbers are there at Tav 4...
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Many thanks, Mike and Mike (mikiek), and who have liked the posts... Now I need to repeat all the way for many blocks that have to be tied with a rope of 0,5 mm. For the blocks that have to be tied with a rope thicker than 0,5 mm. I must follow the conventional way.
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And to tighten the rope around the block, I have pulled the end (the blue arrow). Then I made a knot just near the mast. Done...
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First, the ring for the mast have to be tightened around the mast... I have pulled the end (the blue arrow) to tighten the rope around the mast (the red arrow).
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