CDW

Back before there were problems with terror and all that it involves, security at airports was very minimal as I am sure most of us know. There were some remote roads where commercial aircraft made their final approaches and takeoffs, just feet away from the main perimeter fence surrounding the airport.

As teens, we thought it was a lot of fun to put on our sound deadening headsets, lay in the back of our pickup trucks directly under the flight paths, feet away from the fences. The aircraft passing over would literally be less than 100 feet above us. It was quite a "rush" as we used to say. 😁😂🤐

One couldn't even get close to places like that anymore without serious consequences, but back then, it was common.

Thank you kindly OC. 

Great plane spotting photos, OC. That "rainbow contrail" looks phenomenal. 

What altitude do you estimate the planes in the photos?

From my front porch, you get a beautiful view of planes making takeoffs and landing approaches to Tampa International Airport. Not so close the sound is annoying. In fact, when my doors are shut, I cannot hear them at all from inside my home. I would guess the planes are not much more than 1,000 - 1,500 feet above sea level on approaches and landings. Mostly, it's landing approaches from the north to south, but they will come in from a number of different approaches. But it almost always seems takeoffs are to the north or to the west. Some south, but not a lot. Considering potential destinations, I suppose that's to be expected.

I used to get a great view of F-4 Phantoms when those were stationed at MacDill Airforce Base, then F-16's later on. Now, refueling tankers are about all you'll see flying from there. 

It's debatable whether it's a good idea, but I believe the reason clear plastic is used on the planes is to allow you to mask the paint job so you end up with clear canopies. This way, they don't have to go through the added expense of making separate molds for clear canopies. 

Everything looks great, Greg. What are you using to simulate the tarps on the boats? Looks very realistic.

Getting close to wrapping up the small details on the bow. Of course, the anchors, chains, and booms remain to be done as well. Breakwaters have been added fore and aft in preparation for the main guns and turrets. Slowly but surely.

Hang in there OC. You did the right thing taking 5, then coming back to it later. Sometimes, it just seems things won't go correctly and a little time away from it almost always seems to do wonders for me.

Rigging something as delicate as a 1:350 mast is always a challenge. When your budget will allow, try to lay your hands upon some ez line, that stretchy thread that works wonders for rigging delicate items. There are some vendors on Ebay who sell it in small quantities for a low price. Something like a dollar  for 6 feet. That much will easily do a couple of 1:350 models.

8 minutes ago, Koppalakki said:

Just some details coming up! 😃

You're keeping me in suspenders. 😉

I'll be sure to be tuned in for the next episode.

What are the wires protruding from underneath? 

Beautiful finish work here.

Really sorry to learn about your wife's accident, Lou. I was wondering where you had been. Hadn't seen you around as much. Now I know. Not going to "like" your post as that seems inappropriate given the circumstances, but want you to know you and your wife are in my prayers for a complete and swift recovery.

Now get busy with that house work, sailor. 😉

This 1:350 Nippon Maru kit was made by IMAI and distributed through Scale Craft Models, vintage 1978. Remember when the "tall ships" were a big thing and touring the world? That's when IMAI released a slew of tall ships replicating those that participated in the tour. This is one of a half dozen or more ships, some done in waterline versions like the Nippon Maru, and some others full hull versions.

If you never owned one, you will be surprised at the parts count and quality of these little IMAI kits, but really, IMAI did a whole lot of nice models. They compare very well with any modern day model ship kit in quality...and if you are careful, you can buy them at very favorable prices. I paid less that $20 for this one from Ebay with shipping included. Can't beat that in my opinion. It will make for a nice little model without a bunch of aftermarket, and I can finish it rather quickly. 

I looked around to realize it's been almost a week since I posted some progress on Mikasa. Not that I haven't been working on it every day, some of these details take an inordinate amount of time for me to do, just getting bogged down in all the little fiddly business of it.

And I was thinking this past week...I need a diversion. Something that I can work on at the same time as Mikasa so that when details on Mikasa get a little overwhelming, just switch over to the diversion for a more relaxed, not as highly detailed model that I can bang together in a week or two.

An impressive upgrade set. I assume the masts come with the update set, or is that sold separately?

Oh, that makes sense why it's happening. They are not packing the parts adequately and they are being heated/crushed.

My highly deformed model came from a warehouse in Nevada. It was probably left in a space without climate control and it literally melted the plastic. It was an expensive, big Tamiya kit, too. They replaced mine with no problem.

Are the turrets vacuformed or injection molded plastic? Only once did I receive an injection molded kit that was warped by heat. 

2 hours ago, lmagna said:

Will this do you Craig?

http://www.radekshipmodels.cz/cz/plany-lodi/le-chebec-plan

 

You still have to open each page but it should work I think.

Thank you Lou!

You are the Man. That's exactly what I need. 

Craig

I need a digital copy of the 1:50 Heller Le Chebec instruction sheets. Does anyone have them or know where I might acquire a set? Have a complete kit, but no instructions.

Please Hide Your Ugly Crack

All kidding aside, the front and rear bridge is glued down securely and gaps filled. 🤐

1 hour ago, lmagna said:

You have to remember that the pictures in the books are all taken with perfect light and professional photographers and like the pictures in Playboy are probably touched up as well. 

You mean to tell me you never saw any girls IRL who looked like the ones on Playboy? Lol - Just fun'in with you Lou. 🤩😏

If you were to use a wood grain decal, you would want to try and scale the decal as close to your ship's scale as possible, or else the grain would be way too large. Most of these decal sheets are for 1:48 to 1:32 scales. But I looked on Ebay and noticed they have these wood grain sheets for N scale railroad. That may be about as close as you will find to the scale you are working with, 1:200.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Microscale-601406-N-Scale-Decals-Textured-Plywood-Weathered-Wood-Grain/183383582275?epid=1307723479&hash=item2ab2836643:g:JT8AAOSwulxbdnTi

Vallejo sells a wood and leather paint set. It involves a primer first, then a base color, then 2 or 3 washes. Comes with a color brochure giving instructions on how to achieve the finish. It sounds like Flory's method involves fewer steps and may actually be easier to achieve the effect you want. The Vallejo set gives a wider range of options for finished color and tint. There used to be wood grain decals you could cut to fit your particular application. Some were quite nice. Often used to simulate WW1 aircraft plywood construction on planes such as the Albatross for example.   

All that natural light sure does make those colors pop out nicely. Probably the DSLR hlps, too. But OC, she is looking mighty, mighty fine. Well done! 

36 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

Superb work. 

 

Now, don't take this as a criticism as it is more of a pet peeve for me, but is there any way you could fix the gap between the bridge walls and the wood planking on the deck? I know that sometimes, the fitting is not perfect and perhaps you have not glued the bridge to the deck yet.

 

Your model is so beautiful, I would hate to see those big gaps.

 

Yves 

Lol - It's just sitting there as a dry-fit, posing for a picture. Nothing is permanently in place yet, or glued down. Trust me, there will be no gaps when it's done, but thanks for pointing it out.

I'm at about 90% now with the front bridge, and should finish it up tomorrow as long as I don't get called into action on some unforeseen endeavor...and that's been known to happen. 

I may begin with the masts after the front bridge is finished, as it may be better to do some of the mast rigging before the deck areas get all cluttered up. It gets pretty busy with all the launches. Will need to carefully look things over before I decide for sure.

Thanks Ron. I'll be interested to see your sample pieces using the Minwax product. My good buddy here in Tampa and I build scale RC aircraft. He uses Minwax stain a lot on his projects and likes it, too. What you've been using is the water based product? I think most all these stains are water based nowadays, rather than oil based like they used to be.