JeffT

I quickly discovered that using PVA glue for this planking was going to be problematic in terms of clamping. Reluctantly, I started using CA glue and completed the first layer of planks. The next day, I started suffering flu-like symptoms. As I’d been wearing my respirator while using the CA, I wasn’t sure if this was a virus, or was in fact still a reaction to the glue. I checked the date I’d last changed the filters and let’s just say that I went straight out and bought some new ones! It has taken a couple of weeks to get over the resultant symptoms, and then of course the usual excuses that keep one away from the shipyard!
 
I was not terribly happy with the outcome of the planking. Despite Chuck’s best efforts to make this build fool proof, I managed to prove that it’s still possible to get it wrong! Although I did pre-bend and twist all of the strakes, I still managed to get a considerable “staircase” effect at the bow. I also ended up with dirty marks all over the hull as my fingers, graphite from the pencil “caulking”, and CA glue, combined to make quite a mess.
 
On the plus side, I found that taking the trouble to line off the hull iaw Chuck’s instructions was a big help in monitoring the evenness of the planking on each side. There was one strake that “got away” a bit, but I was able to correct that with the next strake. 
 
Today I finally got back to addressing that mess. I spent quite a lot of time sanding out the "staircase" as well as the other irregularities and the dirty marks. Overall, it has come up to an acceptable level, though not even in the same league as some of the other builds here. There was one place in particular where I had done such a bad job that when sanding I ended up with a hole in the planking. I made up a filler of sanding dust and PVA glue to patch the hole and fortunately both it and one other “untidy” patch will eventually be hidden by the frieze.
 
The hull is now ready for the additional layer of planks for the upper two strakes. That is going to have to wait for a couple of weeks as I’ll be away this week for work, and then taking a short trip up to Brisbane for my niece’s wedding. Will be nice to catch up with family for a few days.
 
Here’s a couple of shots of the planking as it stands today.
 

OK, I have just finished the last UPS shipping form for all customers who pre ordered their Speedy. Everyone that ordered a Speedy will receive theirs next week. I think the latest is Friday for an Australian customer. They are all going via UPS, and are all packed as well as they can be, protected by a thick cardboard shipping sleeve. (Learnt a lot from doing those initial Alert orders...)
 
My wife, Chantelle, tells me that her favourite job is doing the rigging lines, she loves that! Not really, this is the one job she hates, as it takes so long. Need to find a better way to 'automate' this aspect...

I've made some progress on the hull.  I planked one side without much drama.  I divided the planks into about 6 belts which made it easier for me to manage the work and make corrections as I went.  I had the usual tapering at the bow and stern.  My fairing was OK but ran into some low spots around the last two belts.  Nothing major so I just used some glazing putty from my body shop supplies to fill in the low spots.  Used 80 grit to shape hull.  Will finish with 220, 400 before applying Jesso.  I'm happy with my first attempt at planking a full hull (did a bow section earliler)
 
 

Boxwood... i am in love! 
Its a very hard material and the result is way different than my Tanganyika. My new Proxxon sander really came in handy here. Its a hard mtrl so much more difficult to cut.

Hello to all.
My Carrack is moving along a little quicker than I thought, so I had to finally decide on the changes to the stern galleries. A decision was made to completely remove the bulky slanted stern gallerie and just stick with a slick tapered rear and a simple hand railing along the top stern deck. 
As it begins to take shape the more I think I made the right decision in this regards to the changes.
As the kit is possibly as old as forty years I've come across a problem with the 1.5 mm lime laths, I've ran out of them and the new ones I bought are a completely different colour. The advice I received was it's as simple as the old ones have just aged. 
I intend not to stain any of the timber and leave everything natural I will probably have to line the deck sides on the inside so I end with the one colour of natural timber. I don't think it's a big deal, just added work. The age of the timber must be why I have colour discrepancies in the deck planking. 
 
So far I've added the cannons, the cannons themselves can be glued in later once the first layer of planking has been covered in Walnut. 
The top deck has been added. And I continue to work my way up with the planking, towards the forecastle and the new stern handrailing. 
Im making a few errors as I progress but as long as I learn along the way and every error is fixable then I'm happy as I go along. 
I do have one question. 
Is there anything I need to do to the first layer of planking before I start laying the veneer walnut on top of it ?
All the hard work is very rewarding as the Carrack starts to take its real shape and I start to think only a natural disaster could stop me now. 
Cheers. 
Peter. 

There should be enough room for the motor and the prop. I ordered a Graupner 600 motor for her. It looks like it is going pretty well right now, but one thing I have learned in my old age is, ( for every positive action, there is always a negative reaction and I'm sure there will be one here, but it hasn't shown itself yet.   

I'm replacing the two pieces (K7 & K6), which goes on the bottom of the stern and K6 is supposed to be removeable to allow access to the rudder arm, but since I'm making a new access panel on the top, this is no longer needed. So I'm replaces these two pieces with a solid piece of plywood. My main issue was to make sure I was going to have enough clearance between the prop and the rudder since I was moving the rudder forward about 1/2".

I managed to get a bit of the outer layer planking completed.  The transom is done and the first 3 rows down from the sheer.

On the next photo, you can see the bevel on the lower edge of the first strake.  This is by design and is on both sides.  It does make it look like the 1st and 2nd strakes are not tight, but they are.  

The strakes are going on pretty easily.  I'm still using CA glue.  Mostly because the Elmer's Wood glue takes too long to dry and clamping at the stem is very difficult.  Too sharp of an angle and none of my clamps or rubber bands will stay in place.  

While I don't have a photo to post just yet, the remaining unplanked hull area has been lined off for the next set of strakes.  I'm trying to decide how much width trimming to do on each subsequent strake.  As was seen in the under-layer planking, the stem and stern ends of each plank get really thin, approx. 1mm.  While this makes it easy to bend, it also makes it very brittle.  This outer layer planking is walnut and is brittle to begin with.  I'm thinking I may keep the strakes closer to their original 4mm width.  This should make for some tricky cuts along the keel.  Again, this will all be painted so any sins will be "swept under the rug."  Either way, it shouldn't take too long to get the planking completed.
 
Jim
 

Thank you again for the Likes!
 
The hull is ready for the outer layer of planking.  It only took just a little putty and some patient sanding.


 
Jim
 

Hmm, yes that certainly is a weak point and not surprising it's coming adrift. It's a bit of a design fault on the kit manufacturer's part. Once the boat is built the rest of the structure will hold it all in place quite securely - it's just keeping it from breaking off in the meantime that you have to cope with. Will this part be visible when the model is complete? Because if not, you could glue a "splint" either side of the weak spot to strengthen it (the brown line). If it is going to be visible, the best you can do is glue it as securely as possible and be very careful not to break it off before it's reinforced by the rest of the structure.
 

Regarding the dye, don't forget to do a test run before you dye the sails - it might turn out to be a ghastly colour completely different from what shows on the packet (don't ask me how I know).
 
The plastic parts are just things that would be either too difficult or expensive to make in wood (or would just break the moment you look at them), and as Chris says, with proper prep they'll look just as good as the wood. 
 
Regarding the workboat, you might consider building it up on a solid carved base (called a plug), with thin frames bent around it. There are several examples of boats being made this way scattered amongst the build logs, such as archjofo's  unbelievably magnificent pinnace for his model of La Créole (well above the efforts of us mere mortals) - starting on the page linked below. 
 
Steven 
 

Hello all
 
Just started cutting out the parts, but when I tried taking the back part out (stern end) I noticed that part of it was going to snap off.
I was talking to the man next door he said put some CA glue on it about two or three coats and that will give the wood some strength.
Is this correct.
 

Happy days.
 
Jo.

What a difference!

Well I tried a little more paint and stripe...I am wanting to move on with this project and although I believe in the future I will be able to create a better stripe (had better luck with the tape but need to gain more patience).  I have to get better at applying less paint more frequently.   Also, I’m not sure hull red was the right red as it was much darker than I thought.

Video review our new  woodenkit "MOREL" - Yefim Nikonov`s "Secret Vessel"
Scale 1/36
art. MK0203  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Personally, I like the Minerva look of the natural shingles. The painted version clashes a bit with the background frieze color in my opinion while the natural shingles complement the lower finishing piece. But you know what they say about opinions...
 
Have a great time in New Orleans. You may more closely resemble that Chuck figurine after a few days of Louisiana cuisine!

Does rum work for this? Asking for a friend.
 
I made this jump a little too early, had to take a few steps back and regroup.

Hello and welcome to MSW 

A warm welcome to MSW from 'Down Under'.
 
John

There is also book that has plans and covers the building of the Lexington, Five Historic Ship Models from Plan to Model by Parker. The price on Amazon ranges from under ten to fifty or so. https://www.amazon.com/Five-Historic-Ships-Plan-Model/dp/0870332589/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Five+Historic+Ship+Models+from+Plan+to+Model&qid=1575640294&sr=8-1
 
While you can't buy the plans at this last link, you can peek at them: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-model-ship-plans-brig-406188495
 
Good luck (and welcome!)

Welcome!

Check post #4 in this thread. Not the Davis plans, but maybe an alternative you might wish to consider.

After many decades of not model making, have revived my interest and would like to build a POF of the Charles Davis 'Lexington' from The Built-Up Ship Model. If anybody knows where I can get a copy of Clyde Leavitt's plans for her, kindly let me know. 
 
I look forward to perusing this site and getting back up to speed. Time to get my old copy of Ship Modeler's Shop Notes out of storage!

Well, I have ONE Master Shipwright Speedy kit left in stock! These were genuine limited edition kits, as I will not be doing anymore kits using boxwood for planking for a very good while. Pear is a very nice wood, though.
 
I may have to use a sub contractor to cut more Speedy kits, but if I do not receive anything this side of Christmas, I may as well do these myself, so once the stock is gone, that will be it for a while, as I need to re-organise. I never thought that I would run out of my Speedy stock so quickly.
 
I have ordered my new laser/engraver machine, which will be arriving two weeks today. I have also ordered the materials I will need - but will probably have to re-format all of my existing laser cut CAD files..
 
I would like to start offering fittings. Stuff like closed and open heart blocks (never liked standard kit versions), and gun carriages, all in pearwood and 72 and 64th scales. I did get quotes for these, but the cost was so high, it was this that pushed me into thinking that I need my own laser machine, more freedom.
 
Thank you!

Made a few side projects before continueing with the planking. Everything is precut making it very easy to work.