JeffT

Think I’m pretty good on the stbd side, planks seem to be laying down nicely. I may have to make some minor alterations at the Lower bow after I start the upper planking down to the whales. At that point I’ll have a better idea of the actual runs of the lower planks. There’s very little signs of laser char left and where there is char, the planks are laying down nicely.

Looks like a great kit. I'm feeling tempted

The stern framing in the quarter gallery area has been redone again and finally I think it's right.  
I've also completed the bollard timbers though I haven't glued them in place yet.
I'm holding off until after I complete the lower counter planking. Just a quirk of mine.
This completes the 1st chapter!
 
I want to wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving. With the holiday and then taking the Admiral on
a vacation the Winnie will be in dry dock for a couple of weeks. I won't even have access to MSN
while we're away. Sigh. See you all in a couple of weeks.
 

 

 

Thanks very much Mugje she is look quite good,  I am very pleased with the way she has gone together seeing this is my second wood frame ship. 
 
 
Thanks Dave hope the build will help in anyway, regarding your question here is how I made the slits for chainplates
 
Traced the top rail from the drawings marking the slit, transferred tracing to cap rail, the chain rail is .016" thick so I used a .016" drill and drilled two holes in each slit (taking great care to make sure I didn't drill into plank), then used a #11 blade very carefully remove some of the wood in between the holes I had drilled, then I took a 4" swiss file and ground sides to the size of slit, on one flat side I ground it down to the thickness of just under .016" thick and then I carefully filed slit so that I could get the chainplate to go through.
It was quite time consuming but it did work for me, 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Hi Rick we will see another Bluenose in the horizon yeah, I have no idea what the AL kit is like but you will find the Bluenose 11 is different than the first Bluenose, I have also bought the book Bluenose 11 Saga of the great fishing schooner by LB Jensen great book, but you will see that the deck hatches, cabins etc are different between each one, also not sure why the stern is more square than the original Bluenose, anyway hope you will have fun building her just as I am with mine, attached below picture of Bluenose 1921 this pictures is to show stern if this is not allowed please delete.
 
The bottom I prime painted with a mix of floquil railway colours zinc chrome and red oxide will be painting it copper red later, will have an update soon.
 
 
 
 
 
Regards
Richard 

Vanguard Models Master Shipwright kit of HMS Speedy!!

I will put up a thread very soon on this with all details… but the first impression of this kit is simply "wow"!

Everything packed very nicely and protected. Other kits I have bought has been quickly packed with sawdust and manuals with folded paper etc. Here you can really see that someone has made an effort in protection and layout. I have just briefly looked at all the wood and the parts and its simply way beyond what I have worked with previously. Only problem is that if I get used to this level of quality I wont be able to go back to my other kits....

And also a big thanks to Chris who let me order a kit before the official release and it was delievered very quickly to Sweden where I live!   

Thank you Jeff

Welcome to MSW. Nice models!

Welcome to MSW. Nice models!

Welcome to MSW. Nice models!

Hello fellow builders!
I'm a retired graphic artist and I enjoy spending my time scratch building ship and other things. I'm always amazed by how many talented builders are out there and in this digital world we still use our hands to make beautiful things. Cheers to you all! 

I just had another batch of laser cut parts for Speedy arrive, this time the premium version with basswood laser cut sheets, and they look very nice.
 
Also, I had a sample set of the Alert complete laser cut parts for a top end version of Alert. I made minor changes to some parts, and the deck is now moved to 0.8mm plywood, and the wooden parts are now in pearwood. I added a couple of pics of the Alert samples, one with all of the sheets, and another with the changes.

Lots of stuff arriving this morning! Just had another 30 Speedy kits worth of resin cannon, this time in black resin (Alert black cannon arriving Wednesday)
 
Also included is a resin casting for the domed canopy sample for the third kit. There was no way I was going to assume the customer would want to make this part out of wood. It was likely copper anyway.

My Ratline did not come out to well so I have decided to do it as the instructions by de Agustina manual.

For getting the notch around the gunports right, I made myself a little "help".
 
 

Yesterday I had a couple of samples of laser cutting from a sample file I gave the company and 1.5mm pearwood I also supplied. I want a certain high spec laser machine, recommended to me by someone who already has one. The company that sells them asked what the machine will be used for. (80% cutting and 20% engraving). He recommended a cheaper version, can you tell which is the cheaper version from the samples (or did they over-egg it as a ruse...). Clearly, the 'Nuclear' option is out of the question, so it seems I will go for my first choice and what was initially recommended to me, which suits perfectly the type of work I want it to do. It will be quite an investment, but I really do feel that I need one, looking forward.
 
As I mentioned, I have ordered a LOT of pearwood sheet from Germany, which should arrive in the next couple of weeks. For my third kit, I am erring on having only one quality option, pearwood laser cut parts and pearwood second planking, with cast resin decoration for figurehead and stern and cannon, and laser engraved deck planking. Also, as I have mentioned, I shall be having 15 Alert kits done by the UK laser company with pearwood laser cut parts, a 0.8mm ply sub deck (kit will still have boxwood deck planking) and cannons in black resin. I shall have one sample kit ready next week, so I can check it over. Price will be £220 with the different materials and resin cannon. Ultimately, I want all kits to have the same quality parts and materials, and it seems that the combination of pearwood laser sheets and pearwood second planking, together with quality castings is what most want (I would too, to be honest).

Bob Friedman, the owner of SeaWatch Books is hospitalized.  He is getting better and expects to be home sometime this week.  Please be patient if you have placed orders or sent emails to SeaWatch recently.  Bob will be able to answer emails and process orders soon.  He asks that you be patient and that he will answer emails and process orders ASAP.
Thanks,
Kurt

I’ve been working on this kit forever. I love the Wingnut Wings line of kits and have several of them. A tremendous amount of detail can be added to an already detailed model. 

A vice I will admit to is tools. I find myself asking "do I really need another tool" and often the answer is yes "I guess". Anyway for what it is worth I bought this Woodpeckers pocket square which is primarily intended to gauge the trueness of the business end of woodworking chisels. Obviously it is one of those tools one uses in the workshop less than often so it has wandered into my modeling tool chest. I have found it to be just the right size for a number of build applications. Here is another I found. I am installing the bulkheads from the middle out to stem and stern so it just requires the removal of the nearest neighbor to fit. The reliefs in each arm of the square allow me to use some of the clamps with lesser throat and it does wonders to square up the bulkhead while glue dries. Albeit a bit pricey it seems to do the job.
Joe

Moving right along...
 
I am about to start framing out the quarter galleries.  But before we do that, we must take care of those stern windows on the transom.  I am only referring to the one in the quarter gallery that is actually a "dummy" window.  This window was actually boarded up in the qgalleries.  I am not even sure if it had an actual piece of glass in it.  Needless to say I added the laser cut acetate window pane. This is something that just makes the stern look more consistent in my opinion.  But you can leave it out if you prefer.
 
So there are three layers...
 
First the laser cut window (light).
Then the acetate pane
lastly the laser cut 1/16" insert.
 
The aft side of this insert should be painted a dark gray.  Try and avoid a pitch black.  See below.
 
 
The three layers are inserted from the forward side.  You dont have to glue the window unless you need to move it around for the best fit.  Check it from the outboard side to be sure.  Dont put any glue on the acetate.  Just push it against the window and let it site there.  What you want to do is just apply a little glue to the edges of the insert and add that last.  It will hold in your window.  Then sand the surface so the forward side of the qgallery is all flush and neat.
 


With this all done, we can start constructing the quarter galleries.  This is some real tricky business.  There are so many angles to contend with.  You must establish the correct slope of the qgalleries.  This is the hardest part.  We will be constructing the "stool" of the gallery first.  This is the extension of the upper counter as it wraps around to form the base of the qgallery.
 
But you just can begin by grabbing the laser cut framing and and gluing it onto the model.  The angle of the stool is crucial to every additional laser cut part for these galleries.  If the angle is off, none of the windows will fit etc.   So measure twice and then measure again.
 
To assist with this, I have created some paper templates for you.  This is nothing new.  Many of you have used this technique before.....see below.
 

BUT....I have seen many of you make a crucial error when using them.  You dont want to place these against the hull planking.  This will result in your quarter gallery having the wrong angle and NOT following the run along the hull you want.  Instead, you need to cut the template out carefully and tape it to the outside edge of the transom.  Get this against the transom neatly.  In fact you will notice that is is just a hair lower than the bottom of the transom.  This is because if you follow the bottom edge of the template aft, it will intersect with the aft edge of the transom.   This is important and I hope that makes sense.
 
The 1/8" band on the bottom of this template represents the top of the stool framing.  You need to mark the forward edge of the template with a sharp pencil....the whole edge.....
 
Also mark the aft side which will reference the top of the qgallery along the transom edge.  The top left of the template.   
 
When you pull the template off, it will look like this below.
 

Well actually you will just have the forward pencil line.   Then you need to add another about 3/64" aft of it.  This represents the shell thickness of the qgallery.   Also note how I defined the 1/8" frame at the bottom.   This will be the first qgallery timber we add to the model.   That will be shown in my next post.....
 
This is some complex stuff with all of these angles, so please feel free to ask me any questions. ....  

Hi all!
The body part of the first batch of figurehead is about to be completed, and I will make the rest ones of jujubewood. If anyone wants to catch up with the first batch, please contact us as soon as possible. As I am about to complete the design of the hull of my 3rd rate,  maybe i will spend most of my time on that project. Secondly, I can determine the release time, which should be next month. 
 
In addition, if there is any member who does not want to buy carving sets now but have pre-ordered, please send me a PM , thank you so much for your message. 

Thanks!
 
Jack

I use Tamiya tape also. It seems to help with a nice tight edge.