JeffT

Foremast Lower Shroud Ratlines - WIP
I have started adding the ratlines to the foremast lower shroud. I started by printing out a template. Every 7th ratline is tied to every shroud line and all the remaining ratlines only tied to the leading 8 shroud lines. I indicated the full length ratline positions on the template using bold text. When adding the template I trimmed the top edge so it could positioned under the shrouds up to the bottom of the crosstrees.
 
I started by adding the ratlines on lines 1, 10 20 30. I also added the one on ratline 35. Next I added the ratline for line 2 as this is one which needs to be carefully positioned with the shroud seizing's.

The next photo shows the ratlines on lines 1,2 and 10. The 10th ratline looks to be out of position but this is not actually the case and is due to the position of the camera.

By moving the camera for the next photo it can be seen that ratline 10 is correctly positioned but ratline 20 looked to be misaligned which is not the case.
Ratlines 30 and 35.

I'm working on the lower wing -- nothing exciting enough to warrant a picture -- but I thought I'd share a funny story about one of the agonies of being a card modeler. This year, just as I have done many times for past Christmases and birthdays, I put some card models on my wish list. And today, nine days before Christmas, my wife informed me that the family is "having some trouble" ordering stuff on my wish list -- I knew instantly what kind of "trouble" they were having, and this even after I spelled out in painful detail exactly which sites to visit and how to make purchases at them. To no avail -- it looks as if this year I will once again be ordering my own Christmas presents and receiving them well after Christmas. The family simply cannot get past the Great Wall of Polish eCommerce. Oh, well! Good thing I am used to this by now. 😅

good evening everyone
day 291-19
its been a couple of weeks since my last update, real life has hindered the progress, lost central heating for nearly a week, the puppy has had a operation to remove his bottom fangs, but some progress has been made i will let the photos do the talking, but i am presently working forward to aft, and every now and the i will go and tie in some more ratlines,
loving this build, and have another @chris watton kits for Christmas " the Duchess of Kingston, amongst other non maritime kits

 
 
 
 

I have been mulling around how to make and install the beatnik shrouds on my Conny. I want to rig as much as possible off the model to make it easier. So far I have made the staves for the lower fore and main mast and placed them on the rigging. Now to make the hooks and rings and then rig them. I know this is gong to be harder than it looks. 

Post One hundred and eighteen
 
Thoughts about the Figure
 This seems a good time to check out the Figure.
 
The resin warrior version provided by Chris is a mini work of art, beautifully detailed and styled.

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We don’t know what Figure ‘Indy’ actually had, but the choice of a Bronze age Greek Warrior fits perfectly.
 
During the late 18thc it was practice to paint Figures in natural colours, rather garish looking in some cases.
I have been pondering how to finish the figure, and I’ve concerns that too bright a finish may clash with the more muted tones of my build.
 
I have several books on the subject, but contemporary ship models of this period with ‘painted’ figures are hard to find.
A lot of Navy board models are without figures, and for those that have them they are usually either gilded or varnished.
 
For ‘Indy’ I want to use more muted tones with reduced contrast between the shades.
How that will turn out I’ve no idea at this point, but I first need to wash and prime the figure.

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I use Vallejo Surface primer which shows up the detail beautifully.
 
Before I start painting, I create a colour chart of the likely shades I will use.

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These are painted over the primer coat so I can determine the coverage required.

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Incidentally, these little lidded 3.5ml pots obtained from Amazon are ideal for paint mixing small quantities and keep it fresh for a long time.
I painted the model in life colours but aimed for a soft tone. Vallejo paints were used throughout.
 
This is the result.

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I think the colours tone in very well, and the figure sets off the model beautifully.
 
I am particularly pleased with the Bronze used on the metal work, and the Red for the cloak which has a dark wine colour.
The reinforced linen of the Pteruges (skirt) were painted with Dark sand, and the tassels in Ivory.
For skin tones I opted for Ochre brown with a spot of Burnt Umber added.
The shield is Hull Red with the embossed hub and rim in Bronze.
                                                                         
I had intended to apply washes and varnishes, but I’m now thinking I should quit while I’m ahead.
It is after all a figurehead on a ship not a real-life depiction as may be created for a specific model figure.
 
A pleasant diversion from recent activity, but back to the build now.
 
 
B.E.
15/12/2023
 

 

I got some primer on this hull. I used Vallejo German Red Brown surface primer. I sprayed this with a .66 tip at roughly 22 PSI. I bring this up because I have read so many blistering reviews of this primer. It was my first time applying it so based on the reviews, I was apprehensive and took every precaution. It turns out it may be my new favorite airbrushed primer. I didn't thin it at all and cleaned my airbrush afterward with Vallejo airbrush thinner. With the primer in place I was able to see that the majority of my prep work was good but there were a couple of nitpicky spots that needed attention. Once those were covered, I cleaned the remainder of the parts that attach to the hull bottom (except the propellers). When you're about to attach the parts, pay close attention to the positive mounting for the propeller shafts. It's too wide and needs thinned quite a bit. I did so using an curved hobby blade and a dozen test fittings later, the parts snuggled on. I mounted these first, then the bilge keels, then the propeller shaft supports, and finally the rudders. Everything got some reinforcement gluing and then some sanding. I waiting on one trouble spot on the propeller shafts to finish drying so I can make the front, bullet shape look proper. I've attached some pics. Next up will be more priming and then painting. I'm not using the colors called out by I Love Kit so when I get around to painting, I'll be sure to list what I used in case anybody is interested.
 
Thank you for all of the likes and your comments.
 



Thanks for looking in!
Patrick

Another quick progress update. Most of the outer hull work is done. I ended up using water based wipe-on poly to secure the photo etch details and it worked out very well. It ended up being pretty easy to do.
 
Its turning out to be a very nice looking model.
 

Framing (final pieces)
I have finally finished all of the framing. About nine months to do them all including about 160 milled scarph joints. It certainly feels like a milestone. Though mostly done, I still need to do some minor cleanup fairing, especially where the cants transition into the deadwood.

FYI: Here is the fit that I was shooting for when adding the last frame, #29.

Mike

I recently bought the kit  FlyHawk 1/700 - SMS Emden - Amazing detail on such a scale! One of the best I've ever seen. Probably be the next one I start..
 
 
 

The greatest pleasure in making a model is that it will make you addicted and give you a huge sense of achievement

5 section, I am preparing to write an instruction manual for it，Production and sales will begin shortly

I started with HMS Beagle and my second build is the frigate Diana both from Occre.  I have enjoyed hundreds of hours building these and don’t regret my choice of models.  However, I have no doubt that my skill as a model builder would have been better served starting smaller.  As I am a couple years into the hobby I do wonder if I went about this the right way.  Decide if you primary goal is to develope skills that will result in later building your “master piece” or are you willing to sacrifice some of your skill development for a subject matter you find more interesting.   
 
I have the US Brig Syren on the shelf and I won’t start that one until I am confident my skills will do it justice.   
 
while the cost of a kit is high, the per hour cost of the hobby is incredibly low compared to my other hobby of golf.  Good luck on your next build whatever you decide.   

Repetition is not such a big deal just do a bit at a time. But yes decent instructions would
be best. The only thing I think I would struggle on with any of them is just the planking of the hull. I’m just not sure which technique is best to go with a a learner. 

I'd build what you're interested in.  If it's a frigate, build a frigate.  I built the Caldercraft Badger as my first kit, and while I have three wooden ship builds in process at the moment, I didn't think they were too far a step up in skill level.  To me, the bigger ships typically just have more repetitive tasks that need to be done, they don't necessarily involve new construction techniques.  Just take your time and look at other logs and you should be good to go.  If you are worried about experience level, just buy one of the kits with good instructions and lots of build logs on here.
 
For what it's worth, the Euromodel La Renommee that I'm working on is a frigate.  The kit pretty much comes with no instructions, but has really good plans.  @piratepete007 has put together a wonderful practicum for this and other Euromodel builds that is very helpful.  Euromodel kits do require more scratch building than typical kits - they are a good middle ground if you ultimately want to scratch build some day.  I love the subject, which is based on plans found in Chapman's Architectura, but I'm convinced it's not a French vessel but more likely a Swedish vessel (more on that in my build log).
 
I had started building the Corel Unicorn - also a frigate - but there are a lot of errors and shortcuts in the kit.  It does make for a nice model, but if you're into accuracy, then it's not a good kit to try.  I ended up abandoning my build for that reason - the hull was way too tall and the plans were all over the place - drove me a little too crazy and I just thought it made more sense to spend my time working on something else.
 
 

I am going to second @ccoyle's recommendation and suggest you might want to consider an intermediate step. I am currently doing a cutter and even with the one mast, the number of repetitive task that risk sapping your enthusiasm is high. Some intermediate step kits you might want to consider that will give you a good stepping point towards somthing bigger like sphinx might be:
Flirt or Speedy from Vanguard Models - Small 14 gun Brigs Alert from Vanguard Models - Large 12 gun cutter Trial from Vanguard Models - another cutter featuring more precut parts. I would recommend this one over alert if you are planning to follow the plans, if you like to kit bash I feel Alert has a little more scope. Syren from Model Shipways - larger 16 gun brig

Hey, thank you for all your suggestions. 
I have been looking at the hermione and the surprise recently. I will have to look at the sphinx. 
 
I’m definitely at no skill level as most of you but I take things slow that is forsure. If I don’t know something or how to do something I will research it and if I don’t understand I’ll ask. 
 
I want to do a frigate because I’m interested in them. If I choose something I’m not interested in it will Be a rough time and I’ll likely never finish. 
 
I’ve made 2 mistakes on the Polaris that I know of. Ones not so bad the other I just didn’t look at the instructions hard enough and I’ve learned from there. Triple check everything haha. 

Other than the Vanguard kits I would avoid the others mentioned for various reasons unless you are not concerned with accuracy or are ready to do a lot of research and are OK with kit bashing.    Also consider the following high quality project.   https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/hms-winchelsea-1764.php   
 
Allan
 

Going from Polaris to a frigate is a huge step up, not just in terms of complexity of the subject but also in terms of the sheer number of repetitive tasks to be done, e.g., ratlines, guns, etc. I suggest aiming for something a little smaller, such as an armed sloop or gun brig. While not frigates, those subjects will still be sufficiently challenging and produce striking finished models.

Yes Sphinx is a good alternative, but not sure how experienced you are. I'm building it now and it's a real joy. Your criteria of decent instructions and materials are met with this kit. I can't judge how difficult it is because i'm not that far into the build yet, and i'm considering myself a experienced beginner. But knowing the designer and prototype builder are here on the forum, that gave me enough confidence for trying to tackle this kit  
 
 

My experience is limited.  I know two models only, both from Vanguard, and both have been very satisfying to build with excellent instruction manuals.  The Sphinx is expensive but it is good value for money.  It is classed as "experienced" but it is OK for a beginner as long as you are prepared to be patient and take your time to try things out, and redo things, before committing to glue.
 
One of the best things about Vanguard models is that there are people here on MSW who will help with any questions, in particular the designer himself, Chris Watton, who will respond himself if asked.
 
Nipper

you may have a look on the Artesania Latina Hermione kit for a second build here https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-advanced/484-wooden-model-ship-kit-hermione-la-fayette-frigate-8421426325171.html?mot_tcid=e87a7115-6a0e-4f2d-91d3-dbc3fbc2526a. It's a newer design than the Occre one, and definitely fulfils the need for detailed instructions. Still uses plywood parts a lot, but for the price it seems to be a decent offering.
 
 

I am building the caldercraft Diana at the moment but i would not advise it as a second kit. If I had not already of had it in my stash I would of gone with the Sphinx from Vanguard models. It is still rated as an experienced builder but the build methods and instructions have improved dramatically since the Diana kit was designed.

I got a Bridge City mini block plane with depth skids (HP-8).  It looks scrupled; the best part is that the sides can be adjusted to set the height of the plane.  The plane is about 4” (100 mm) long, with a working width of 1.25” (33 mm).
 

Recently, I was running out of 1 mm thick material for steps.  I had 1.5 mm material so I set the mini plane to 1 mm height (using some 1 mm material) and planed the 1.5 mm material –  it works fine.  And it looks cool.
 

 

Surprised no one has answered you to date, perhaps Bounty is no longer that popular. Your best bet would be to review builds here before making a decision. One thing i would say, not knowing your level of experience, is that the Bounty hull is not builder friendly.
 
Having looked quickly for images of both that the Amati version looks more realistic. I have only built one Mantua kit and was not impressed.
 
Have you considered the Jotika / Caldercraft kit? May be worth a look at. I have this in my stash of kits to build and looks to be a good kit.

It helped, some of those frames were delicate.


Indeed, four frames broke through overzealous handling.  Some of the repairs can be seen above.

The planking jig has been built, though the boat spends little time in it (on it?)

 
Above, attaching the garboard.  A lot of the frame teeth need fettling before planks are added, which can be something of an endurance sport when done by hand.

I've moved on to attaching the top plank and wale (is it a wale on a boat?).  As mentioned in @Richard44's build, these are carvel planks, not clinker as the rest of the boat (thanks for that Richard).


As seen from the bow, without clips

 
That photo tells us that a bit of filling needed there.

As I write, the stern planks are yet to be glued.

 
This will give me a chance to fit the planks to the boat.


Other work:

 
The shallop has a barrel (water? beer?), which has been started.  Seen here with a GB 5p piece.