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Slowhand

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Everything posted by Slowhand

  1. Slowhand
    Hi Newbee. That planking method looks familiar. I had a similar dilemma with the Occre San Martin. Didn't fancy using the timber supplied with the kit for the second layer (.5 x 5mm). It looked far too fragile to survive without chipping the possibly 2 years or so doing the masts and rigging etc once the hull was turned over. I bought some Mahogany timber online (1 x 4 mm) and decided I might as well plank the way of Dirk De Bakker and Booker described below rather than the wrap up way used on many AL and Occre kits. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php It was far easier than expected. The planking above the wales needed virtually no tapering and for the planking below I divided the hull into zones and measured the width of the zone at the centre and two or three other points toward the bow and winged it towards stern as measurements showed very tapering was needed. Was pleased with the results, and used 4 drop planks per side, just about the best hull I have done, not up to the standards of the best on this website of course. My build log is below http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/12239-san-martin-by-slowhand-occre-scale-190/#comment-473423 Good luck, thought it was a shame you abandoned your second attempt at the 50 gun ship it looked as if it was going well.
  2. Slowhand
    That's it finished the second layer of planking. Used drop planks on the planking nearest the keel as the space for the remaining strips was a bit out. Quite happy with overal result. who looks at ships bottoms anyway?
  3. Slowhand
    Just about finished 2nd planking layer waiting for a bit more wood supply from the South West. Replaced the 0.5 x 5mm Sapelli supplied with kit with 1 x 4mm Mahogany. Reckon the thin layer would have taken a bashing in the couple of years I expect to need to do the rest of the build and used the guide provided on NRG by Dirk de Bakker and Greg Brooker, split the hull into bands to help tapering, drop planks at the bow to stop crowding only using new blades to cut the timber. Glad I didn't follow the instructions which came with the kit, where you sweep the wood up to the wales.
  4. Slowhand
    As I started this post I wanted to show what I have done as it turned out using a drop plank was the best option for me on this build. Was surprised at the diversity of replies although in the end my planking was based on the linked guide msw framing and planking. The 5 planks could have been tapered to fit by reducing from 4 to 2 mm (theoretically) but as it turned out I just managed to squeeze in 4 planks tapered to 3 mm.The last plank closest to keel is for the next band. Slowhand (although some people call me Maurice)
  5. Slowhand
    Merry Xmas to all readers, I' am ready to start planking below the wales (not until after Xmas as the Admiral would be unhappy)and was wondering what is best to do? I don't want to do spiling as don't have the tools for it. I've split the area into bands, and will be planking with 4mm mahogany strips. Photos below. The width at mid-ships in all 4 zones bar the one next to the keel is 20mm so that's 5 strips. At the stem the width of the bands is just over 12mm, do I taper all 5 strips do to just over 2mm or is it better to drop the 3rd plank and taper 4 strips to 3mm wide? Photos of lined of lined off hull below. In previous models I tapered the blanks to below 50% width to get it to work but want to do it properly this time. I know its not conventional but it is tempting not to plank from wales downwards but to start on the middle zone. Build log is San Martin Occre, afraid cannot paste the http link
  6. Slowhand
    Quick update on progress. Me and the Admiral moved dockyard and in the process lost my background paper for photographing. Decided to buy in some 1 x4 mm Mahogany for second planking as it would give me a chance to finish the wood off a bit more than the 0.5 x 5mm Sapelli supplied with the kit.Just about finished above the wales on both sides. Bit disappointed in quality of wood as the grain is quite pronounced. I wanted to post a link to the Montanes by Montanes build log as the wood quality there is superb, but must figure out how to do it Next for the tricky bit below the wales- updates soon.
  7. Slowhand
    Bigcreekdad, I agree with your interpretation of the guide so I guess it must be inaccurate. Pity it didn't just list the correct ones.
  8. Slowhand
    Finished re-planking over the original Tanganyika planking using maple wood, 4mm by 1mm thick, Glad I took the time to do it. Prefer the lighter colour of maple and narrower strips. Mind not sure if in the Spanish Armada there was the daily ritual of scrubbing the decks down with salt-water which whitened the colour of the planking. Still to decide on how to do trenailing, as don't want to spoil another deck! Also got to decide on second hull planking. Do I use the thin 0.6mm Sapelli supplied or buy in some thicker timber?
  9. Slowhand
    When you think of the time it takes to build one of these models, you don't say what it is, the time taken to plank a deck isn't that significant. You could plank over it and timber is very cheap. I don't think you will remove all the wood filler from the decks by sanding. I replanked with my model the San Martin because I was unhappy with the width of the planks and the colour after finishing with Danish oil.
  10. Slowhand
    Think this Is a fascinating build, good to see a warts and all description of your model, sure it will all turn out fine.
  11. Slowhand
    Always look on the bright side of life - dum de dum de dum
  12. Slowhand
    Yep used it quite a bit on wood carving and on a deck planking. Wished hadn't on latter it adds a golden colour. Applied in daylight it produces a gloss finiish, due to UV light.
  13. Slowhand
    Does anyone else do this? You look at your model and debate what you are going to do , yet all the time you know what you are going to do. In my case I am going to replank the decks with maple 1 x 4mm . The existing ones are too wide and are irritating me. 5mm X 90 would equal nearly 0.5 m wide on the real ship. Colour of deck too yellow caused by using Danish oil on the wood.
  14. Slowhand
    Does anyone use a mini mitre block useful for edges of deck hatchet and edging of gun ports? Never find doing it by eye gives a good finish.
  15. Slowhand
    Thanks for the kind words. The Domanoff parts look well worth having.
  16. Slowhand
    One thing about this website is it really makes you raise your game. Finally finished the first layer of planking on the San Martin. 31 planks each side, reasonably happy with it, will need some sanding and filling. Despite tapering the planks are still crowded up at the bows. Advice requested? Should I go with the 0.6mm thick Sapelli second planking supplied or should I buy in some 1mm thick timber. My last 2 Corel models used the thicker timber and it should be more fore-giving if an extra expense. Also do I follow the Occre instructions? Going to take my time and listen to advice as the Admiral and me are relocating to another port near by.
  17. Slowhand
    Perhaps it's the thickness of the strips , found 0.6mm sapelli warps a bit when PVA is used to glue it in place.
  18. Slowhand
    It all looks so simple, clean cuts and sharp woodwork, sign of a true craftsman
  19. Slowhand
    Thanks to all for the advice. I waited until the Admiral was out of port for a day and got going with the Babyliss heated hair tongs to help bending the 2 x 5mm strips. Quite pleased with the result. Must get my own set.
  20. Slowhand
    Thanks Mark, I'll give it a go. Will have to wait until the Admiral is out before using the heated hair tongs.
  21. Slowhand
    Just coming to the final planking of the San Martin (first layer). Advice much welcomed. I've planked the upper hull, which I'am happy with but I want to plank the lower hull realistically to practice for the second layer. From my understanding the garboard plank will need to bend through 90 degrees from lying on the bulkheads to resting against the false keel. The timber supplied is 2x 5mm and appears too thick to bend after a day's soaking. The Occre instructions skim over the planking and all the first planking is of the same size and the instructions would not result in a realistically planked hull with tapered planks. Not sure how to approach this. You can see my build log on the forum. The ships going to be a bit of a bruiser.
  22. Slowhand
    A quick up date to my build log. Slight bashing going on to put cut out gun ports in the hull and add stub cannons into the ports, took the idea from the Corel Half Moon. Compared to some of the hulls built on here with bluff bows, this is easy. . Original has metal gun doors to stick onto the hull. Think the stub cannons will be too large, Doh!
  23. Slowhand
    Interesting your comments about the brittle nature of the mahogany strips. I' am doing an Occre model San Martin which has the same material. My previous models always were Corel and had thicker wood for the second planking so might buy some similar stuff in when I get to that stage. current model San Martin Occre
  24. Slowhand
    Your stairs could be signatures of your builds, never seen them before , but really cool
  25. Slowhand
    Been a while since my last post as I've had a few hiccups The last 1 cm of the false port bulwark came adrift just after I'd attached the starboard so I decided to redo end gluing of both as it would be a pain if they came apart later on. Decided to attach the two lower ply bulkheads first to give additional purchases for the upper two which had caused the problems. Later Join Together the upper two and quite pleased with results. Found the ply bits needed quite a bit of shaping to get them to fit. I like the Occre way of working doing the structural stuff and the fine decorative planking together rather than the structural stuff all together. Now doing the 1st planking layer, one of my favourite tasks, both easy and satisfying to see the hull grow. Doing the upper sides first to give strength to the ply bits. Spot the song title in the post

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