Trussben
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Everything posted by Trussben
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Hi Allan, Don't worry about me, I can look up the terms I need to know in Steel, just wondered. Ben -
Sorry to hear some of the wood supplied is not so good, I'm sure you will manage with it. Ben
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Thanks for looking in Mike, the TFFM books are great references for any build IMO. Ben
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Welcome, Nice to see another Swan class build log. ben
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Looking good Colin. Nice to see updates. Ben
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Thanks for the info Gaetan. Ben
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Excellent progress there Rusty, planking looks sharp and detailed. Come across any issues so far? Must be nice not to have to make sweep ports. Ben
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That's cool Gaetan, never seen that before! Normal pharmacy chain? Walgreens/rite aid type of place? Ben
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I guess it's another way to show off the framing but certainly the planking is not correct as per Druxeys picture to what would if been done real world. But still another way to do the job! Ben
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Did you consider adding a glossary of terms or would it of added to much to the cost? I can see some people still needing to know what the table terms actually mean. I see the diagrams in the back show some of this info. Ben
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Received my copy, an excellent reference Allan and very well laid out. Ben
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Back home for 2 weeks so progress on Pegasus will continue. Well the tricky bollard timbers have been completed and installed, making the notches for the bowsprit chock was fun, also the first cant frames have now been properly installed in preparation for the hawse timbers. And a small matter of the bowsprit chock! Ben
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Sweet! Ben
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Agree with all the others Toni, stunning as always. Ben
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Allan, these blades should fit all standard pinless machines. The make I use are Flying Dutchman, but there are other makes out there. Just google it! Ben
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The Foibles of POF building, nice recovery. ben
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Hi Alan, Looks like your having fun! 1. I normally use a #3 or #5 Ultra reverse blade cutting stock less that 9 scale inches thick depending on material and how tight the curves are. 2. Chocks are a lot of fun, just keep practicing and you will find a way that works for you. 3. Druxey recommends 1/64, I actually left them a little fuller at 1/32 to give myself a little insurance. 4. The more frames you make, the faster it will become. By the time you get to the last frame and have mastered your own technique you will be less than 1 hour!! Its a steep learning curve! 5. HAHA - yeh, its good to have a handhold while cutting and keeping the fingers away from the blade! Just keep on going Alan - its not a mountain your climbing but sometimes it will feel like it ben
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Looking good Augie, The brick hearth is actually pretty easy to make, it's the painting of it to look realistic that's tricky but I'm sure you will do fine. I installed the cabin floor before the rest of the deck planking to ensure a good tight fit, the joint gets hidden under the aft most bulkhead if you do get some gaps, that is if your are going to do the chequed floor of course. Ben
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Got my copy on order Allan, I will be using it to back up my copy of Steel, as you say there are some things that are not there but exist in SR. I assume it will be layed out like Steel did, not all haphazard like SR?? ben
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Moving along well there Michael, I can wait to get home after this trip and get some modeling time in. Did you soak the deck clamps before clamping in position? Did you get some spring back? You can always use some card to make a template of the curve you need, and then cut a scrap wooden block to match the template and use this to clamp your wood to to get the correct curve instead of on the model where it's a lot more difficult to get your clamps in a good position. Ben
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Did you glue the false deck edges at the stern down? It looks like the deck has a major camber in the aft cabin! Ben
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Hi Grant, I like the case, its exactly the same as I did with my ECHO, although yours is a hell of a lot bigger :P and more expensive :o , I liked the black base as well as a contrast against the boxwood. Not far to the finish line now! ben
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