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stm

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Everything posted by stm

  1. Depending on the size of the vessel, I prefer the scales between 1/8' and 3/16' since these best suit my work area and works best for a buyer if you are planning to sell. In addition, I am not the best at forging my own metal parts, belaying pins, guns, and anchors, and this allows for a greater selection of finding a suitable part with the kit manufactures. Good question. Scott
  2. The success of the Model Shipways kit Rick mentioned above is due in part to the excellent modelmakers guide and plans developed by Erik A.R. Ronnberg, Jr. Parts of which can be seen in various photos contained in this thread. Highly recommended for anyone interested in this subject. Scott
  3. stm

    I would be happy to get them if still available.

    Thank you

     

    Scott Martin

    32 Minton Court

    Red Bank, NJ 07701

    1. ragove

      ragove

      I will put them in the mail shortly.

    2. stm

      stm

      Received them today. Thank you again for the kind offer.

       

      Scott

    3. ragove

      ragove

      Enjoy

  4. There's an old saying, "the time to buy it is when you see it". Meaning it may not be there when you decide to go back and get it at a later date. A difficult habit to break since most humans do have a gathering impulse when the subject is something they have a fascination with. Scott
  5. Very impressive. Looks very professional. I gather your family must have an easy time trying to figure out what to get you for your birthday. There is always something missing or need in any work shop. I started out building plastic kits before I was a teenager in the 1960s. Would purchase them from the locale mom and pop hobby shop. They had a huge selection of aircraft kits from all over the world. Hundreds. It has changed hands since then and there are only a few kits now that they keep in stock. Talking old times with the present owners they indicated that they only keep a few on the shelves since they can't compete against the internet. In addition, the interest of todays youth switching from building models in the past to video games has had a major impact on the model building hobby. Scott
  6. I think it is fascinating the way artist can take a plastic kit and with the use of a brush and airbrush turn it into a work of art. It's very interesting to see how some modelers remove part of the fuselage, wing, etc... and proceed to build engines, guns, etc... that are not included with the kit by using their own hands and materials. WWW II aircraft are a great subject to pursue since there are so many designs from various companies you can spend nearly a lifetime trying to construct them all. Keep up the great work. Scott
  7. From the photos attached, I would say they are not reinforcements to the yards. They are called stunsail booms. Normally pronounced stuns'l. Your second diagram is closer to how the hardware securing them to the spar is correct. They were used mainly with the fore and main mast coarse, topsail, and topgallant yards. Ed Tosti's build of the Young America will show you how the hardware is constructed. Scott
  8. I wouldn't be surprised if this topic has been approached before on this site some where some time in the past. Another source would be to GOOGLE various maritime art painters to see what they are using. Geoff Hunt would be a good one to start with. There are books out there that show painters art. One is The Tall Ship in Art by Alex A. Hurt. The colors don't always vary that much, but the patterns on how they are applied to the vessel do. Scott
  9. Concerning your other question about the line you used on the rudder, I doubt that there was a standard dimension. More than likely whatever was available. On Sheet 3 of the plans Erik Ronnberg did include a tricing line that should give you a good idea of the scale. Scott
  10. I am also in the market for an air brush and compressor. One artist I know recommended a Iwata air brush and Passche compressor. If anyone else has used these an input would helpful. Scott
  11. I always keep my stands simple in design so as not to take away from the ship itself. A lot of other artist prefer to put more into them since they are part of the art work. Including a diorama or having the whaleboat on davits attached to a bulwark similar to the plans. The size of the base looks ok. You don't want a stand that is smaller then the hull since it looks like it is sailing off the stand. The pedestals are to large in my view. In the first photo you attached, Model Shipways is using heavy wire about the thickness of a hanger which I have seen quite often for boat models. You may want to down load other whale boats on-line and see what other artist are using. Model galleries would also be a good source. From the photos it does look like you are doing a nice job on the whaleboat. Scott
  12. For clarification, I just re-read what I posted and there is an error in terms. The plank that you are actually referring to is known as the false keel not the keelson. The keelson would be found inside the hull and are large beams running fore and aft used to strengthen the keel. Sorry for any misunderstanding. Scott.
  13. The patterns you mentioned are historically correct. The keelson was left unsheathed or sometimes it was also sheathed with metal. One reason for it being left unsheathed is that it was easier to replace the keelson without having to bother with the sheathing in times of grounding. Chances are if there was a grounding both the sheathing along with the keelson would have to be replaced anyway so there was no full benefit. This practice was carried out by both navy and merchant vessels and either one is correct. The second part of your question about patterns was known as belts. Scott
  14. They are boarding pikes. Used to repel enemy boarders when it got down to hand to hand combat. Scott
  15. Very interesting. A different perspective taking into account the environment in which these vessels operated in present and past. Also, furthers ones education on the background concerning the art subject being constructed. Scott
  16. Jo if the gaps you are referring to are the seams between the individual planking, then you may want to force a touch of glue in them. Otherwise they are liable to continue to open up as the years go by. Scott
  17. A very enjoyable and educational voyage indeed. You are a very intelligent and skillful individual Ed to present this to all your followers. Thank you very much for your efforts and to all that submitted additional detail and knowledge. William Crothers and William Webb would surely be impressed with the results. Scott
  18. I am in the minority. I have been using CA on rigging lines for decades and have never had a problem. PVA may be a better choice based on those who have tried both, which I have not. I use a very small amount so as not to change the color of the line. Scott
  19. I Googled the USS Constitution and found several pictures of the actual ship and models of her. All had the lines black including the actual ship. I have seen three different types of netting over time used. Some with square, some diamond, and some with straight lines of rope. Never hexagon which some modelers use since it is available and at least close to the real thing. I know that the present Constitution was rigged mainly with nylon dyed black due to the difficulty in finding proper sizes of hemp. There is a good chance that ship board practice was to treat the netting with some type of preservative making them very dark drown or black in appearance. Scott
  20. I googled "Brigantine Leon" and looked at the various ship models that surfaced. Some very intricate. Only one had the bell attached to the pawl bitt. I can't tell exactly how it is attached, but it is very similar to the photo above in post #5. That would be your best bet. The book has Leon's port of registry as Porsgrund, but I guess that doesn't have to be the name on the bell. I didn't look through the book to see if Underhill made mention of it. From the photos, you are doing a very nice job on the model and wish you continued success with it. That calking of the deck planks looks very realistic. I built mine in the early 1970s and it sailed away from a NYC gallery. Where it is today I have no idea. Thanks for the picture of the bell from the museum. Scott
  21. Was there actually a legal or customary requirement for all ships to have bells back then? Even today? I am not sure what the correct answer is. I looked on line for one, but was unable to find a definitive answer. There was an indication that some present day yachting enthusiasm use hand held bells which may have been used back in time. I built the Leon decades ago and did not included a bell since it was not on the plans if I recall correctly. I am more likely to accept that is the case when using very detailed plans from individuals with high standards thinking the bell was omitted for a reason. Possibly someone who served on the Coast Guard would know the answer. Scott
  22. I have had this discussion briefly with a few gallery owners in the past. One of the benefits to not painting your art work is to appeal to buyers who want to see the joinery of the planking. This, as mentioned above, is far more difficult to do correctly since you will not have the luxury of hiding any defects with filler or paint. Having said this, the majority of the galleries customers like to see the art work in period colors. Keep in mind most of the paints back then were not purchased from your locale giant retail box stores that we have today, but were mixed on site or locale paint store provider. The shades of color can very each time depending on the amount of the pigments being used. This can lead to a part of the ship being a shade different from the rest if not developed in the proper quantity requiring additional paint mixing at a later time. If your going to use various expensive woods to show a color tone to accent the detail, then it would be best not to use paint. American Linden (basswood) would be a better alternative to use when painting. Keeping in mind not to sand the planking down to fine so as not to prevent the individual planks from being seen. Ed Tosti's excellent building of the Young America is great example of blending both painting and leaving parts unpainted to show additional detail. Scott
  23. Chuck for clarification purposes, this discussion is talking about line that is 100% polyester and not the cotton covered polyester variety, correct? I have used the cotton/polyester line past and present and find it to be a very suitable choice. Just want to make sure the museum in question is asking for the line to be totally synthetic. The cotton covered polyester was mention briefly by one of your followers earlier. Scott

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