stm
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This has come across my mind more than once when I was constructing my ships over the decades. The plans always seem to show that the chocks are placed where the lines are, as you noted above, "located where the backstays naturally fall and are just there to keep them from slipping". I can see where this would keep the backstays in line when the winds started to howl in the upper sails of the ship. I may be right, wrong, dead on, or not even close, with my take. Even though I have been curious over the years, I never did research it. Possible that both your thoughts have some validity. I'll stay away from the modern rigs since I have very little experience with that. Scott
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- Flying Fish
- Model Shipways
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My understanding is that ships with square sails are better off since they can make long distance ocean runs more efficiently when the sails are set in favorable winds without having to tack as much. Suggest someone more knowledgeable on sails/sailing share their insight on this thread that may be reading it. They would be able to clarify this subject better than me. Scott
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The Cate Cory I understand spent her first two voyages schooner rigged. Schooner rigs are cheaper to operate with less of a crew and gear needed to operate the vessel. This rig is also better at using the on and off shore winds experienced closer to shore if that was a consideration for the owners at that time. If Kate Cory started to venture further out to sea in pursuit of whales the owners would have then added a square rig to account for the winds behavior found further away from a land mass. Morgan was originally designed to make long ocean voyages and thus started with a square rig. Reducing her to a bark may have been an attempt to lower cost as the whaling trade started to falter. This could apply not just to the whaling trade, but to merchant vessel alike for similar reasons unique to their industry. There are others out there with greater knowledge on sailing qualities of the different rigs than me. It would be beneficial to read what they have to contribute on this subject. Scott
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Roger Is it possible to share the answer that Mr. Ronnberg gave you concerning your original question above on davit height? I don't know what the correct answer is either. Thanks so much.
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Micro-Mark provides the smallest brass pins I have found. You could also try doll house suppliers on line. Scott
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For clarification , as I was typing my opinion to your question no one had responded yet. When I mentioned that not gluing the mast was not the best advice I was referring to the directions from the instructions. Not to the two individuals that beat me to the draw of the submit reply. As individual hobbyist/artist we have are own way of doing things that work best for us. In simple terms, real ships mast are predominately held in place from the forces of gravity and friction acting on the mast tonnage, steps, wedges, and the forces exerted by the standard rigging. Scott
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Not sure what size model you are building, but to recommend not gluing mast in place to me is not the right advise. I've always worked it so that I have all the mast, spars, and blocks assembled first, then I would dry fit them into the holes established in the deck. This would act as a holder to work on various rigging like footropes, etc... After that I would glue them into position. Leaving them unglued would allow them to move about, be it very small, but enough to make the rigging lines difficult to align properly. Scott
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Those are beautiful cases. Kind of in the goldilocks syndrome where they don't over or underpower the artwork they are meant to protect. Just right. I found the photos of the various displays that were included with the website interesting. The one in particular the flower display looked very realistic and I have never seen one of those before. Thank you for posting. Scott
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Not sure myself, but I have seen pins located in the boom jaws before. Although the photos I am checking this against is a bit difficult to see, Erik Ronnberg is using them on his Smuggler and knockabout schooner Thomas A. Cromwell. The lines look like they are traveling against the main boom from aft to forward and belayed to the pins. For the Smuggler Ronnberg is identifying them as topping lift starboard and boom tackle port. Cleats are for flag halliards. He does not identify the lines for Cromwell. Scott
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by BiTao - FINISHED - 1:72
stm replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Believe me we care. Your work is fascinating. Scott -
About not receiving book order conformations on the website when ordering. I spoke to Bob a long while ago about this and he mentioned that the website was set up that way not to confirm orders without providing an explanation. Have not used the site in a while so I don't know if that changed. He also mentioned that he was very ill and was trying to keep up with orders. I new he got my order since my credit card was charged. He was very gracious to me on the phone and able to correct the situation promptly. I wish him a speedy recovery since they were a great outfit to deal with in the past.
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An armed capstan
stm replied to bruce d's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I can see muskets being mounted on the top deck capstan for short periods of time. But not for long periods since the fragile trigger and flint lock mechanisms would be exposed to the corrosive effects of the sea elements. Understood that these weapons were stored below deck when not in use. -
Old Floquil paints?
stm replied to MEDDO's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I think shaking can produce bubbles/air pockets that will remain with the paint for sometime. Plus shaking the bottle can gum up the caps if not cleaned properly. -
Two questions... Mast and rigging related.
stm replied to Jorge Hedges's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Forgot to mention the scissors. Preferably one that has a sheering action or slight curve to the blade although strait ones can work well. I use different types that don't even contain the manufactures names and are not so expensive. When they get dull I use them to cut wire. Trial and error may be the way unless some of the other site followers can give specific company names that work well. Some can be very pricey. Also, I don't recommend needle threaders for pulling lines through blocks or deadeyes, etc... Instead just cut the tip of the line, at an angle, and use something like supper clue to stiffen the point. Needle threaders are a pain and fragile. Just using a bit of glue works very well. Scott -
Two questions... Mast and rigging related.
stm replied to Jorge Hedges's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
For decades I have used the same approach as I originally started with. Even though I have seen others use a different styles. I first assemble and paint all the mast and individual spars with bands for blocks attached. Making sure each individual mast, lower and upper, are aligned correctly. After painting I add the blocks to the bands for both mast and spars. Then I attach the spars to the mast. I then will use the mast holes in the deck to secure the mast in place and work on the foot ropes for the spars. Then I attach any gaffs. When all the spars/gaffs are in place I glue the mast in the respective holes in the deck and account for rake and position of each. After they have been cemented in place I add the additional rigging. Any serving would be done offline. A lot of individuals secure the mast one level at a time to the ship and work on the standard rigging individually. All this while attaching the running rigging to the spars and then attach the spars to the mast. Can't say much which works better since I never tried any other approach then what I described simply in the first paragraph. The only rigging tools I use are long pins and tweezers of various types that I have collected over the years. Scott -
Bulward Questioins
stm replied to shortgrass's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Not familiar with the Mystique. Normal practice is to the have bulwarks planking fastened the same as the rest of the hull planking. -
Model Expo and Northeastern Scale Lumber sell a number of woods including basswood in different sizes. Scott
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Sea Witch 1846 by Zooker - RESTORATION
stm replied to Zooker's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
For clarification, I built the Scientific Sea Witch kit when I was a kid decades ago. It did not look anything like the attached photo and was smaller. If the manufacturer name is not on the brass plate on the stand then more then likely it is the Marine Models Company kit. Although I have never seen it. Basing the size of the vessel you have pictured with the size of the table it looks like 1/8" in scale. Your uncle may or may have not followed the plans exactly when making it and used his own judgement on how it looked. Other than the hull, mast, and spar dimensions there are no plans of deck arrangement. Any plans existing today are all conjectured. Scott -
Sea Witch 1846 by Zooker - RESTORATION
stm replied to Zooker's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Marine Models Company, no longer in business, had a 1/8" scale model kit of Sea Witch. From your photos this may have been what was used. There may be a set of plans out there on the web someplace. The only glue I know of that sets quickly would be the Super Glue type. Depending on what glue was used originally, you may have problems with Super Glue setting correctly. The other glue I use is Duco Cement. A few individuals prefer to use a carpenters type glue, but I have had great success using Duco for over 55 years on dry surfaces. I believe there are some threads on the subject of glues on this site. Good luck with this. It may be a lot more challenging to get it back to as close as normal then you realize. Scott -
dolphin striker
stm replied to D J B's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Both are correct depending on the vessel or year. Merchant vessels normally have it secured to the underside of the bowsprit cap with eyelet and hook. Most of the war vessels I have built have the dolphin striker secured to the front of the bowsprit cap or none at all. Even with it hanging loosely the tension on the lines are enough to keep the striker in place. Scott -
I may not be the one to comment on this since I am not knowledgeable on this type of vessel, but you may have already answered your question at least partially. "Looks pretty cool, anyway". These ships of this period and earlier where very ornate and stylish. The blocks serve a purpose in adjusting the tension on the lines as needed. Setting them up this way made it look more fancy as were a number of running rigging lines of ships for that time period. Most of which probably could have been step up more simply. Could also be something as simple as "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Meaning that this is how it was done for years and the builders decided to continue with this approach. Without researching this further, and to get the conversation started, that's my best guess. If I am way off I would like to know what the real answer is also. Scott
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Good book to add to your library that is reasonably priced. Has photos of leading model makers work including Ed Marple. Scott
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Allen there are two sets of plans of the Flying Fish. One by Model Shipways with the yellow box by H.S. Scott developed in the 1950s and the more current set by Ben Lankford used in the Model Expo Kit who bought MS. Both are very good and worth having. Ben Lankford may be using more current information and are more detailed. The one difference between the plans is that Scott shows the mast as either all solid stick or made mast construction without the groves known as chapelling, and Lanford shows the main and fore as made mast that have been chapelled per instructions pg 32. I am not sure if it was a written fact from the time period that the Flying Fish had this feature. Ben Lanford may have been using a reference of how the Flying Cloud was known to have had it done when designing the plans since Donald McKay built both of them. I built three models of this ship over the coarse of my life. Two were using the Model Shipways solid hull kit in the 70s for an individual store proprietor and one by scratch planked semi framed in the 90s. The latter was purchased by a company occupying one of the World Trade Centers building and from what I gather was destroyed in the 9/11 attack. I'm drifting here, so in summary having the plans and instructions are worth getting. Scott
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Brooklyn Navy Yard has a detail model of Ohio similar to your later photo. They may be a good source of information on her earlier years. https://www.navyhistory.org/2011/10/uss-ohio-model-at-brooklyn-navy-yard-center-at-building-92/
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I believe there was a book published long time ago that incorporated the individual magazines from the 30s into one binder. Could not find it on line and I may be mistaken, but it kind of sounds like these were the magazines. I actually had a copy of the book, but donated it to charity along with other items years ago. Scott
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